LP Gallardos are great cars, I drive mine "daily" (Since the pandemic I really don't drive daily but I take this car 90% of the time I do drive). With the AWD and Audi drivetrain in the LP gallardos they really are not bad to drive everyday. The head uint/backup cam was one of my biggest issues. Now the frunk popping is something I have to get to as using your car frequently it does get annoying. But it has been a hoot of a car to own, hands down my favorite car I've owned. Thanks for your support!

Glad I could help!

Same.

Same

Thanks so much for the words of encouragement! The Gallardo is an amazing car but lots of little things bother me. I'm knocking them off one by one, and glad that others can get some benefits of it as well! In fact this volume knob should work with any Android head unit in any car.

Glad it helped! I searched a bunch as I knew it would be possible but could not find a good example which is part of the reason I documented it the best I could and put up the code so other's can repeat it. Let me know how it goes for you!

Glad it was helpful!

What MOSFET did you use?

Really glad it helped! I was surprised when I made this video that no one had done it yet as a volume knob is like the most critical function for the radio.

Glad I could help! One note - make sure your Pioneer is one that has the audio-style mini jack for the SWC control and editable buttons built-in. Some of them just have a single wire and require an external device to decode the buttons, which works but in my opinion complicates things more.

Go for it! I posted all the code and wiring on my github, shouldn't be too difficult for you to wire up. If you need the MOSFET board let me know.

​@@cruisinggeek3640I need the mosfet board

Thanks for the compliments! You do not need the arduino for the pushbutton, simply use a third resistor off one of the button's leads to the head unit, and the other to ground and it will work as well. I did that for mute/unmute.

@@cruisinggeek3640 oh man, it's so embarrassing I didn't consider that

You're welcome!

This rotary knob supports a single momentary button which I hooked up one third resistor and I use it for mute. I don't know of any that have more than a single button action though.

Thanks for your compliments! Since the Gallardo does not come with any buttons on the wheel I didn't want to change that. The radio area was already completely removed so just adding the switch there made sense to me. It is still better than the factory as the volume knob was on the other side in that area closer to the passenger so it is a much easier reach for me now. Regardless, I almost NEVER use my radio in this car. The v10 is all the music I need!

I didn't actually save any of the projects where folks were doing that as I knew it was not an avenue that I wanted to pursue. If you didn't want to go the Arduino route I would highly recommend a unit that was already made to interface with the SWC input, like this unit: www.walmart.com/ip/Universal-Car-Wireless-Steering-Wheel-Control-Button-With-LED-Light-8-Key-Functions-For-Car-Android-Navigation-Player/889710547?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=16214&adid=22222222227889710547_16214_145279756546_18395656247&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=646639356873&wl4=pla-1944934239563&wl5=1027741&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=120798572&wl11=online&wl12=889710547_16214&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuLShBhC_ARIsAFod4fLhRlDuhkeN09TZ0QGs02_VJkeNdatXwcOlu2hHA1M610b1FiUqs5kaArqXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Note that this would be superior to the usb version as it works exactly as I built, the only downside to this being the form-factor cannot be customized so it is a bit harder to integrate into your existing setup.

Pretty much any N-channel MOSFET would do, as the amperage/voltage requirements are pretty low. The ones I used were part of my Igniter boards which I sold as another small business and were way over-rated for this application.

That would be cool too. Feel free to clone my github and try to give it a go.

Are you asking which MOSFETs to use? I listed the exact ones I used and bigger/cheaper alternatives in the video description. If you are asking what is a MOSFET, it is basically a switching circuit that allows a low power/voltage circuit (arduino) to switch an external circuit that sucks more power/voltage than can be handled by the arduino.

Yes I was asking, I moved to use digital potentiometer (X9C104 ) which market is full of counterfeit and lastly try to use Analog Multiplexer (4HC4051) which my code was wrong. have try 4HC4051 ? seems be better than each individual mosfet IMO.

Since there's only two channels needed here and I already have a 4-channel individual MOSFET board that seemed to be the best way to go over a more specialized multiplexer. I also prefer the rotary encoder for this application for the infinite spin, and the more compact size fits my specific install space much better.

I had a small business making electronics modules for a hobby for quite a while and now that I'm done with that I do not think I'd want to start up another business LOL. But you never know. Thanks for the compliments!

hi can you help me I can't find the stopwatch.h directory I get an error in the stopwatch.h compiler: no such file or directory Thanks

Glad it worked! If you are not a programmer the easiest way would be to just run a second Pro Mini with this firmware running, and the outputs would be run in parallel. Just make sure all the resistors are unique values so the head unit can read them independently. If you can program you could potentially add code into the same Arduino to read a second input, but I don't recall if there are enough analog inputs for that on the pro mini. Definitely a Mega would support that.

Hey nb1011100, you need to also download the CruisingGeekCommonLibrary from here: github.com/CruisingGeek/CruisingGeekCommon/tree/main/src Put that in your Arduino libraries directory or right in the directory with the main files and it should compile at that point.

It needs to be N-channel, it should be able to handle maybe 0.2amp continuous, though I didn't measure. This is the exact one I used but it is overkill for this application as it is 5amp continuous: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/755-RQ6E055BNTCR If you are looking for a bigger aka easier to work with through hole package this should work as it is 60v but 0.2amp (200mA) compatible. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi-Fairchild/2N7000TA?qs=iN0KuJO79KZfCWVKA48bEg%3D%3D

Again I didn't measure how much amperage the Atoto drew when clicking the button but I doubt it was more than 0.2amp.

@@cruisinggeek3640 Thanks a heap! I don't suppose you know if this is likely to work with my 2018 Kenwood head unit do you? It seems to use a 3.5mm jack like your design, however may have 2 inputs. Can't seem to find information anywhere on what signals the DDX9018DABS takes, but I assume it's relatively standardised these days.

@@conroe_au My only concern with the non-android head units is that the resistor values MIGHT be hard-coded inside the unit. The android unit has an app in the settings (shown in the video) that allows you to configure which button has which resistor by allowing you to select the one you want to sent then press the button. If your head unit doesn't have such an app in settings then it would be tough to figure out which resistor values when to which buttons. Otherwise I believe the principal is the same that all the analog steering wheel controls (SWC) are resistor-ladder based so this would work.

@@cruisinggeek3640 thanks a tonne. I've found some more convincing evidence that there's a training function

There's two separate issues there: 1. Remove volume knob from aftermarket radio. 2. Get car's volume knob to work. For #1, your best bet is to just a head unit without one. But you could probably pull off the knob and grind down the spindle that sticks out to mostly get rid of it. For #2, it depends on how your car implemented the volume knob and how you want to hack into it. If it is a propriatary system your best bet would be to cut the traces of the PCB it is attached to and solder wires off them (assuming it is just a rotary encoder as I used). Then you could do exactly as I did here. If the factory uses CAN to communicate the buttons and volume you could get a CAN reader to interface with your head unit. Would take some programming but would be less destructive. I cannot really give more advice than that as I haven't solved that and it would differ vehicle to vehicle. Good luck!

Hey yes I try to check in here a couple times a week but been dealing with some health issues lately. The main reason the mosfet is used is to keep the potentially higher current draw of the amplifier from running right through the Arduino CPU. It also allows for sending a positive signal to ground the signal so that the logic is 1 to be on and 0 to be off. Without the mosfet there might not be enough power from the CPU for the head unit to register the resistance, or worse it could be such a high current that it frys the CPU.

@@cruisinggeek3640 thank you for the reply I appreciate it, and I hope you get to feeling better!

If you mean you want the Arduino wired up with leads to the rotary encoder then definitely. If you are talking about the full custom faceplate and/or hardware for where the rotary encoder lives that would be tough without the car; unless you have a Gallardo and I could just reuse all the hardware I already made. Reach out to me at naigon_akoii@yahoo.com if you want more info and want me to wire up the board.

It is actually part of the Igniter board I used to make/sell online. My website has been taken down but I have a lot of these little modules left so if you want one I could send it $20 shipped US.

​@@cruisinggeek3640I need the mosfet board

Thanks for the feedback. I plan on sanding down the newly designed faceplate which takes the entire area, using filler primer, wet sanding to 600, then I can take it to my friend who owns the body shop and he will hit it with gloss black to match the instrument cluster.

Some black marine grade vinyl would look great, be easy to install and be very cheap.

Right now the arduino is used to interface the SWC (steering wheel control) so it does not utilize can bus. You would need to update the programming for outputing the appropriate can bus signal via the PWM pins on the microcontroller and hook that with your radio. Note that most aftermarket head units have SWC though so this method should work, though if you are trying to do a custom volume knob with a factory unit you would probably need the can bus implementation.

All the libraries I used are CruisingGeek common, which is also on my github account

github.com/CruisingGeek/CruisingGeekCommon

Make sure to download this library and put it in your arduino library folder when compiling your project and it should compile correctly.

Good to know! Thank you very much for the help!

If you don't have the SWC input with the mini stereo connector and only have the key wire you need a decoder unit that converts the buttons to the appropriate format the head unit understands. Something like this: www.crutchfield.com/S-SlSN48NP9BM/p_794ADSMSW/iDatalink-Maestro-SW-Steering-Wheel-Control-Adapter.html?XVINQ=GZ0&XVVer=Q0Q&awcr=628587969356&awdv=c&awnw=g&awug=9033300&awkw=pla-296046287922&awmt=&awat=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7ZO0BhDYARIsAFttkCjVZrQtiRYW00SxzZ-GFWYP-L6I8ipBLz502qx6Dm5-v5N7L04oWjsaAmMHEALw_wcB The arduino would then communicate with the Maestro, and the Maestro would hook to your head unit.

Resistors are just the standard off the shelf 1/8watt through hole ones. I have a stash of them here and just grabbed a couple that were far enough apart and over 1000ohm so that the head unit could differentiate them. Values don't matter too much as long as they are far enough apart that the computer can tell the difference (like don't use a 1,000ohm and then a 1033ohm one). Either an N-channel MOSFET or NPN transistor is needed to switch the higher power draw of the head unit, otherwise you'd be pulling that power straight through the CPU which either won't work or could damage it. I have plently of those small MOSFET boards here from a previous project if you need to buy a couple, though you said you had a pretty tight time crunch.

@@cruisinggeek3640 would you consider making one and selling it ?

@@blastros10 I'm dealing with some health issues currently so not really in a position to do that right now but definitely something I'd consider in the future.

Thanks for the compliments! You really need something like an Arduino to read the rotary encoder to convert the twist signal into independent button presses that the head unit can understand. Simple buttons can be done with just a resistor and no Arduino though, and that includes the integrated button on the rotary encoder.

@@cruisinggeek3640 thank you

It would be difficult for me to do that as it would be a pretty specific install for each car. I could sell the arduino pre-loaded with my firmware though.

This should work for the branded units as well so long as they have a programmable SWC input settings app where you can lean the buttons from the steering wheel. I admittedly am less familiar with each of those brands though so you would want to play with it or research each brand separately online.

It needs to be N-channel, it should be able to handle maybe 0.2amp continuous, though I didn't measure. This is the exact one I used but it is overkill for this application as it is 5amp continuous: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/755-RQ6E055BNTCR If you are looking for a bigger aka easier to work with through hole package this should work as it is 60v but 0.2amp (200mA) compatible. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi-Fairchild/2N7000TA?qs=iN0KuJO79KZfCWVKA48bEg%3D%3D

That exact one I used might not be there but there are tons of 3-packs of pro micro clones www.amazon.com/Hosyond-ATmega32U4-Development-Micro-Controller-Compatible/dp/B09C5H78BP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2Y8WAL13NOKBU&keywords=arduino+pro+micro&qid=1698372198&sprefix=arduino+pro+micro%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3

The 360 does mean it spins infinitely. I do not know of a rotary encoder that has more than just the left and right infinite spin and single press button integrated

Ok thank you, also what about the fact that my head unit has only one steering wheel function wire? It is a blue/yellow wire that is part of the wiring harness. The wiring harness I am talking about is the one that has all my power/ground/remote/spkr wires/illumination etc. It is not like yours or some other stereos that have a seperate auxilary input for the SRC. I'm assuming it will still work as long as I use the blue/yellow wire as my power and the ground wire that is part of the wiring harness already. Do you know what I mean?

Yeah... if you have the one wire thing you will need an external mastreo unit to decode the SWC and send to your head unit: www.amazon.com/Maestro-ADS-MSW-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B00J4W10XG/ref=asc_df_B00J4W10XG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312765622753&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5761320742676852570&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033300&hvtargid=pla-634754805597&psc=1&mcid=8b004dbd6aa53121aab047d4d9e05c4e&gclid=CjwKCAiA7t6sBhAiEiwAsaieYu-xlK8byy-DeBCZuDSZvgJRWvcTe3pu_BYtehTFSAXKEHYLUcd6ABoCfSUQAvD_BwE

@@user-yi1gr3li4d The rotary encoder plugs with 4 wires into the Arduino. The arduino plugs into the swc input of your head unit

There’s a wiring diagram on my github page linked in the video description

You would be surprised at how old/crappy the eRNS and HVAC stuff are in these cars. Lambo put all development costs for the 2009 MY year into the new 5.2L v10 so still same crappy stereo from the early 2000s Audis

You MIGHT be able to get away with hooking the rotary encoder directly through the SWC with resistors, but considering how "slow" it read I suspect you would have missed presses when you are turning the knob, so would not work very professionally. The SWC works on a very specific frequency which is why the Arduino is needed to buffer clicks if you turn rapidly.

@@cruisinggeek3640 Yap, you are right. I'm now working on my own head unit, and yes adding a arduino makes it much easier and cleaner. Did you think about using Rpi and LineageOS to make own head unit? I have now a problem that the build of the latest LineageOS for Pi (made by KonstKang) doesn't realy support GPIO programming because android ... and I have no idea how to shut it down safely without touching the screen every time before I get out of the car. And yes, unfortunatly gpio-shutdown doesn't work if added in the config file...

Is it for a Gallardo or some other car? Main issue is to make a facia that accepts the rotary encoder for another car would be tough without having the car.

@@cruisinggeek3640 I was thinking just the knob by itself with the board already built and ready to install.

@@wfyfwfyf Yeah that's probably possible then I could wire it up here with the 5V buck module and MOSFET board with the audio jack so it was quasi plug-in-play. Reach out to my email naigon_akoii@yahoo.com if you would like to have me quote you to build it.

I generally don't check the email associated with this account and didn't see it in my main email. Could you try again to naigon_akoii@yahoo.com, that's the one I actually check regularly. Thanks!

I'm actually not 100% sure if the canbus decoder takes over the functionality of the analog swc input or not honestly. It would require some testing. I would hope swc controls would still work. If not you would have to interface the buttons with the canbus decoder as if it were another entry of your canbus system.

It isn't the best sound but compared to the factory it is sadly still better. I didn't like the Sony or Alpine units as none had the SD card or was a screen that wasn't made to have a flush, recessed fit. With that awesome V10 I rarely play music though...