Dealerships are disgusting. This guy took the time to methodically organize his troubleshooting steps. He checked and double-checked his findings. He didn't jump to conclusions but instead, made the right conclusions. THIS is the difference between a 'technician' and a parts replacer. What would have happened at the dealership and what typically happens- the problem is 'diagnosed'; parts are replaced, doesn't fix the problem, the customer is called and told they need even more parts- and eventually, the bad part is 'found' but only after replacing a bunch of good parts- all at the expense of the customer. THIS is why I do my own repairs- THIS is why I watch TRUE mechanics like this guy. Awesome job, thanks for showing us the way it's done.

Sorry, I blacked out after I saw the dealer estimate.

Owned 04 S60R. PEM rotting out is common in this vintage of Volvo’s. They came up with PEM relocation kit which puts it inside the car.

My polymer electrolyte membrane hurts afters seeing that estimate 😂👍. Such a great feeling when you get a car running and prove a dealer/shop wrong.

Ivan,that dealer estimate is exactly why a channel like yours is so VALUABLE ,to the diy'er. That's a RIPOFF any way you look at it. The fix (cost) is more than the car is worth. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!

PEM that sounds like one of those magical devices in the 70's that would give you 80 MPG. Oh boy Ivan taking something apart again.

Time for math class at the Volvo dealership. That's some generous rounding!

That DS708 is an awesome tool. I got mine from Mike and it's been great. Your a tough dude working in those conditions. But it sure makes for a great case study. I appreciate it.

Polymer Electrolyte Membrane Module is that fuel pump module you unplugged and diagnosed defective. Would have made things easier if they'd just listed it as "That fuel pump module thing near the back wheel". I still like my original hypothesis better: Condom filled with battery electrolyte.

After I bought a fuel pump I finally found your vid. This was the answer to a no fire 2005 XC70. ( Codes were 089, 190 and 193 ) Needless to say, if you never experiences a two port fuel pump... kinda annoying when doing it green. (Hint: Buy the socket, get two O rings and expect to stick your hands in the tank and get wet with cold gas even at below a 1/4 tank). Any way. Your bypass method was what we used to test the fuel pump and the car fired immediately. We just used two paperclips and electrical tape to the connectors to test pump and start vehicle. The inside was full of aluminum corrosion dust. The other components looked brand new on this 15 year old vehicle. If they used something the wouldn't corrode for the heat sink, it would have been fine. If you feel I should replace the rail pressure sensor because of those codes or suggestion on what to do next (Clear codes and if nothing come up. let it be?), I'd appreciate it. Oh and mine was not located on the tank it was exposed on the side in the rear underneath. The part number was 30769225 for Bosch (Original number was Bosch 8629614) and 601-227 for Dorman if anyone is wondering.

That’s a good example of the difference between a parts changer and auto diagnostics 👌🏻

Nice diag, you are diagnostician engineer and a true DIY person, love watching your videos thanks for your time. Bill N LINY

Nice diag, Ivan! Can't wait for part 2! Ivan the super diagnostician mechanic...In the middle of winter, laying on a gravel driveway! My fingers turned ice cold and white, just watching this video.

212K miles? That volvo has just completed her break-in.

So glad I called you to let you know that it was posted as private and that you managed to correct it! It was definitely worth the call!

Hey Ivan, that is weird!! Volvo!!! Hahaha, I put a new engine in that years ago, for a customer that has blown engine. Took me 2 days to swap it out. Haha, nice diagnosis!! Sounds like fuel pump driver bad. Can't wait for part 2 :)

If you charged Volvo prices one or two cars would buy you a lift and a nice big shop heater.

First mistake was going to a Volvo dealer to begin with lol the recommendations don’t surprise me they always do that but dealerships love and are proud of their parts-

I run into that headlight problem a lot on the newer cars which drains the battery, so what I do is I pulled the headlamp Relay, As long as the headlight system Is not part of the problem being diagnosed this works great

Man you have almost 5k emails to read, I'm guessing fan questions. Great work!!!.

Atra Hasis, I like this one too. Polymer Electrolyte Membrane: Cover for Jello cups. Favorite of child nurseries and Volvo mechanic break rooms everywhere.

Nice diagnostic Ivan!!

I like those Volvo wagons. Also, more proof at how much of a rip-off the dealerships are. Thanks for more great vids, Ivan

Oh man this trade it makes so fun on us, great video Ivan

Ivan Great video, methodology, and diagnosis. Thank you and looking forward to part 2! God bless Paul

50,000 !!! Sweeeet. Time to watch now

I am in St. George, UT for the True Grit Epic. You should be here, warm...well warmer. Hard core to ride in that!

Awesome, anxiously awaiting part 2.

Going “Full Ivan” on that fuel pump module. Got my coffee and ginger snaps on standby awaiting part 2.

Polymer Electrolyte Membrane: Condom with some battery juice on it.

Great job as ever, it shocks me that was the dealers ie ‘the experts’ apparent diagnosis. In a nice warm workshop with a lift, the manufacturer level kit etc there are some good ones but wow there some truly terrible ones.

PDM, pretty damn marvelous

Gotta love dealer prices! 👍😂. If I had used a dealer for all the jobs I did on my car last year, I could have bought a new car! Looking forward to seeing what's inside that box! Nice job Ivan 😊

Great vid Ivan,you had me hooked, Eric would be proud of ya working 'in the field' in those conditions but hey, you do it all the time. Get yourself an extra large coffee to warm up bud.....at least you can get it to your place and you have it virtually nailed.....I enjoyed this vid immensely.😋

Great job Ivan be careful passing 10A though those leads that's about the max for a short time. Looking forward to part 2 👍

As per Ivan "Euro Trash". Great video and diagnosis

Looking forward to part2,thank u Ivan

Awesome job Ivan. This is a great video

Hi Ivan, Very nice case study, as usual good diagnose steps and good explanation. Up to part 2 Greetings Hans

Had a fuel pump on a '98 Windstar giving me trouble. On the side of the road, I took the relay out, jumpered the power, and went under the van with a hammer. I could turn the pump on and off by just hitting the tank! I replaced the pump!

Oh come on Ivan. The Polymer Electrolite Membrane is the space age technological wrap that protects the muffler bearing from rusting....I kindve expected someone of your mechanical prowress to have known that ;)

Excellent video and diagnosis brother :- )

The PEM is what the plates of the Flux Capacitor are made of

great video! Volvo can be tricky to work on. One of my least favorite engines to work on is the 2.9 that is used in the xc90. All the plastic stuff breaks every time you touch it!

Ah nice Ivan,bring it Pt.2

The (PEM) is called the Pump Control Module. I looked up Proton-exchange membrane fuel cells, also known as polymer electrolyte membrane. They use hydrogen fuel and oxygen from the air to produce electricity. Don’t know what that has to do with Volvo but they sure came up with an interesting name didn’t they. There is a recall on some of the Pump control Modules (PCM) it’s worth checking out. Might save your friend some money.

PEM is petrol electronic module if I recall and there is a fuel test port on the fuel rail under the black cover.

Great Tutorial thank you! Can't wait to see you tearing apart that fuel pump module.

Ivan everyone of your videos is a real challenge. moving on to video number 2 ❤️️

Fantastic tutorial ! Thanks Ivan . 👊🏼 🔥 💻 📈

Thanks Ivan can't wait for part 2 Reason I have a 2004 Volvo V70 only at a 147k bought it because I like the features it has , not crazy about the mechcanicals it has still will take a asain or good old USA nuts and bolts vehicle just me . Joe still turning wrenches at 68 ( pick and chose the jobs can't get paid for the agravation .

Funnily enough, I'm working on my '99 S70 right now, exact same fault. The electronic control system is a lot simpler, but the pump is controlled by the ECM in a similar way, just that it would appear that the pump is either on, or off, via a simple relay, though to say simple, may be not strictly accurate because there would appear to be a signal path back to the ECM which I have yet to deduce. The main thing is, I'm going to be bypassing everything, and driving the pump direct at battery voltage. If that works, I'll be where you are at the end of the video.

I bought that ASE wave connection kit it’s awesome I love it

nice job, as always ..

Ivan, may I suggest a set of mirrors to use, so you don't have to turn your head around when testing. Think Egyptian tomb light reflectors. LOL

On V50s and I think the other P1 chassis cars they had a recall on the FPMs because of high failure rate from moisture and corrosion. They moved the inside under the seat.

Can’t wait for the autopsy.

That fuel pump module is notorious for going out on F150. Mine is a 2005. It's hidden up underneath the spare tire. Lots of water and corrosion up there. Its housing is made of aluminum and just corrodes away until the guts are revealed. Zap! Electronics immediately fried.

Cant wait to see part 2!

Ivan, great video!!!!!!!!!!!

Good job

'The dealer can stick it!' I spit my coffee all over the floor! BTW, careful how many amps you put through those test leads. Interestingly enough, Eric O was just talking about that the other day when testing a coil on a Dodge minivan.. They'll take 10 maybe 12 amps, but not for long! Part 2 fix for the ultimate 'in your face dealership!'

nice job, as always.

Nothing wrong with these Volvos,they’re solid cars! Just wrong location of that module. Move it inside the car and it will be fine for many years. Good thing you didn’t have to do a fuel pump on that thing,I’m not sure on this one,but on some Volvos you have to drop the exhaust,rear subframe and tank to do a fuel pump! 😮

Good video! 👍👍

thanks for the video, wow it's been so long since a saw a Silhouett van hahaha.

Really helpful vid. Thanks

Looks like the dealer didn't want to fix it. Those years of Volvo were good cars and would last forever if taken care of. The price of parts is crazy for those cars.

Hey that is my battery charger. I have had it since 1987.

you are a smart man

Excellent work thanks

Polymer Electrolyte Membrane???? Is that anything like a muffler bearing Ivan lol??? Ya know Ivan I bet you get that bill down to almost nothing. I love watching you and Eric tear these thief shops apart keep it up!!!

Try using Rivolta TPS Plus penetrating fluid, full synthetic, high creep, non acidic. Made by Fuchs, it is hard to get in Australia as it "reserved" for the mining industry, amazing stuff and cheaper than Kriol. Keep the WD 40 for the other jobs

I remember the first time I put a throttle module on a S80. They come as a dummy and must be programmed. Started the programming using Autologic and the whole car went dark. Freaked me out till I realized they shut down the other modules during programming. Also half the battle is figuring out what all the manufacture specific acronyms stand for. Looking to control a fuel pump on a BMW whey it’s in the airbag module of course!

Another great video Ivan! I think Volvo and other main dealers, are just not interested in repairing old vehicles of say ….. age over 10 years. Might explain why the work estimates are so high and often more than the vehicle is worth. The dealer may also be thinking, they have a chance of you buying a new or used vehicle from them. I own a 10 year old vehicle and would only try a main dealer, if I could not fix it myself or the local repair shops could not fix it.

quick and dirty spray it with starting fluid and see if the engine runs for a second then you know to chase the fuel problem or not.

Another Crank no Start/security fault solution: Some Volvo S-70's have a chip embedded in the key that the ignition reads to allow it to start. My 2000 S70 had a key that the chip went bad. We found this out after trying the SPARE key on accident...everything instantly worked great, started right up. So to make a copy of the key with the good chip costs about $120 unless you go to the dealer and it will be about $300 +

Love it...."the dealer can suck it....""""....I am ROTF... Great call...

PDM is on the opposite side of the DDM. Lol.. It's your Passenger Door Module bud. Which controls your window, mirror and door lock controls thru can lines to your CEM. Have a XC90 I'm working on as well.. with a DDM problem is how knew. 😂😄 Cheers bud

In North America, people ask me "should i buy (insert european brand vehicle)??" I always say no. Just dont do it. If they are hell-bent to get a Euro car, I tell them to lease it, then give it back. And to be prepared for the dealer to charge thousands of dollars upon lease return for things like a dirty windscreen, .02 nanometer chip in the front bumper, cleaning fees, worn tires, brake pedal wear, abrasion on arm rest, rear view mirror finger smudge removal, etc etc etc. Stay gold.

Good stuff can’t wait for part two

Polymer Electrolyte Membrane -- the membrane is part of a fuel cell, which generates electricity and which is called the "Auxiliary Power Unit".

It does have a Schrader valve on the far left side of the fuel rail

Не хило дилер насчитал так за ремонт, машина столько не стоит:))))) а я думал что только у нас так делают.

lets hook it up and see if the car starts and if it doesn't let's hook it up the other way..... I LOVE how you think. Way to go. !!

To quote Eric O "There's your Problem Lady!" I nver get them that easy. Go buuy a lottery ticket my friend.

Common problem, we had a TJ (TSB) for this at the dealership. Just because one dealership experience is bad doesn't mean they are all bad. Would be like me comparing you to Autozone

Nice diagnosis! 👍👍👍

Scanner Danner did a nice video on this setup, bad Volvo techs.

It costs 400,000 dollars to fix this volvo for 12 seconds.

Okay so I am having the same problem on my 2007 S60 T5. This video is incredibly informative, but, being a novice at repair, I don't know what that power source you connected to the fuel pump was. What is it and where can I buy it?

Let's see. Part 2: Pop open module, spray green crusties with De-Oxit, rub with toothbrush, blow out with air, re-solder 5 cracked solder joints. Install module, call customer to pick up vehicle.

I want to hear the conversation when you call Volvo to tell them they were wrong. Also, can't wait for part 2. And what about all the other dealer observations? Do you agree with those?

Weird, you didn't show up in my subscription​ feed yet.

On most Volvo's you can turn off the headlights with a small screw-switch near the lightswitch.

The dealer wants $6000 for a fuel pump control module and labor. Probably a blown SCR or transistor in it, maybe a capacitor. Ivan will probably fix it for $5 in parts and possibly a couple hundred bucks in labor, or less, since he's a friend.

I whould remove the CEM and open it. It's a very common fault that these modules becoming water inside and corrodes the PCB. I had this many many times. You need to disassemble the whole CEM to fix it. BR Matthias from switzerland!

PDM, i think its the Power Distribution Module. Another fancy name for a fuse block with internal computer.

That dealer email is incredible. I used to be a Volvo dealer service advisor... still enjoy the cars and own a bunch of them myself, including two stick turbo V70s like this one. But couldn't deal with the clueless techs and miserable dealer lifestyle 😂 What's up with that Oldsmobile Dustbuster?? Is it for sale?

Common to change out PEM when doing the fuel pump since you're there anyway. Been there, done that. Was probably the PEM all the time in my car as the reason the pump stopped. First 5 seconds of start should be at 55psi then drops to 43 at idle until under load.