All correct on a motor that has no other issues. This is exactly what was done after the crank pulley was found out to be bad and replaced.

Most intelligent comment on the subject I have read in months.

brother in christ, the crank pulley is not at play here, what you are showing is directly the crank, the pulley sits on top of it and held by a huge 30mm nut. the crank mark isn't on the pulley but behind it, what you are showing is its in the correct position

yes normally -4 to -7 - but for base time, set it to the engine marks, especially on a Stage 0 engine. Verifying that they are base timed per spec first, THEN you can start pulling a bit of BTDC to make it even stronger. Remember, what this video is showing is base cam gears to crank gear alignment timing, not ignition timing. And they do like that small amount of btdc, but getting the valves to not slap the pistons is priority 1.

@@CaptainSeamus the way you had the gears aligned the first time is correct. The mark on the crank sprocket and notch on the block, and both cam marks straight up aligned with the notches on the belt cover. TDC has nothing to do with these Volvo engines. Plus, that engine has dual vvt hubs on the cams. It retards and advances on its own. Any new info on that engine since then??

@@danielrubio6675 yes, it's my daily driver and has over 10,000 miles since then. The problem was the crank nut missing, allowing the crank pulley to move - new crank pulley, new crank nut, torqued properly and all marks set correctly, it runs great. If it hadn't shut itself off when the crank pulley spun, it would have destroyed the motor. As it is, it still runs very strong.

Hi Paul, In this case, it was a crankshaft nut that went missing (probably my fault when I did the timing belt at 210k miles - which then took almost 40k more miles to damage itself enough to let it slip) - this missing nut allowed, over time, for the crankshaft timing gear/pulley to move enough to strip it's teeth on the crankshaft and rotate. Even after rotation, it was very tight, much tighter than normal, in point of fact, taking a puller to remove it. If that is what is happening with yours, then changing that crank gear/pulley, and CAREFULLY resetting the timing up on the crank and the cam gears with the timing belt should fix it.

@@CaptainSeamus ok thanks but did you use the timming tool or just set it on tdc when you done the timming the last time because if I use the timming tool my number 1 piston is not dead tdc. If I dailgage it with the spark pluck out I get it 100 persent on tdc .

@@paulfritz4249 The way the physical cams are on these motors you shouldn't be on exactly TDC - when I got the new crank pulley, I used the timing marks on the cams as well as the crank. since the cam pulleys are both VVT on the B5254T4 - they have movement in them. Lock the cams on the opposite side of the motor then wiggle the cam gears to get the belt to slide on properly. You can do it without the locks, but you run the risk of rotating a cam if you do so.

Normally, I would agree, but not this time. That tool doesn't do much good when the crank gear/pulley being stripped on the crankshaft is the culprit. Got that tool as well. This was NOT a normal timing issue... and yes, normally completely agree - that is a nice tool to have for a Volvo. Better than my 'between the cam gears' tool from Lisle for this job.

I am using a 10in (25cm) socket extension to see where the piston is located in #1 cylinder. The timing issue ended up being the crankshaft timing gear spinning out of time, and as I stated in the video, the nut allowed enough movement of that gear to strip and spin 20 degrees. I hope that answers your comment, and apologies, I only speak English, construction-zone Spanish, and very rusty German... Thank you for the comment!

Please read the other comments. And yes, you certainly do base time this or any other mechanically timed motor with the crank located as well as the cams. The cams and crank have to start somewhat close to the tdc to be close enough for the computer to recognize that it isn't too far out. Again other comments explain what was actually happening. Also, for the bad vvt - that is possible, but I do know it is still working - as the later dino pulls we did can attest. This car is back in daily use.

I should state, this one lands in the "weird" category because the crank pulley did spin (due to a failed/missing crank nut) - if I had not physically timed it, it would not have run a little bit, showing it was a crankshaft issue, thus not proving it had actually moved the crank pulley on the crank again. Oddball, abnormal failures call for abnormal troubleshooting techniques, including going completely old school on it like this. Again, thanks for watching.

​@@CaptainSeamus I guess you could've used the crank lock tool in the starter. Would've proven even further that the crank marks did not match tdc. While the crank "gear"? could've moved we know the crankshaft won't lie lol. I feel like you might need a dial indicator if you wanted to be super precise measuring off cyl 1 piston top. Obviously the eye can tell moving up, stopping, or moving down enough to tell something wasn't right with the marks though. I'm about to do the timing parts on my b5234t9 2.3 single exhaust vvt. What bothers me is some vvt hubs spring preload and some don't? Or is this incorrect info. And some tensioners load cw while some are ccw based on year? What makes it more difficult is it's in an m4.4 98 car where vvt is uncontrolled so there's no code regardless. Exhaust vvt really does nothing for performance so while I had experimented with a load and rpm based 12v source to the solenoid on the bin file. I decided I noticed no real difference and statically set the exhaust cam at -2* to remove high rpm overlap and aid in any excessive back pressure running 23psi out of a 7cm exhaust housing. It let my td04hl-22t flow full boost to redline. Combined with the 1 bar wastegate. I'm thinking I wanna use my cam lock tool and reset the cams to factory specs when I do the tensioner, idler, belt. Motor only has 65k so not as worried about water pump. But is 20 years old almost. Belt shows some very minor cracks on the outside. But oddly the tensioner seems directed almost all the way to the left (cold marks) even after the engine is warm. When I push down on the belt between cams I can see the spring still moves freely. And when it's running there's no bouncing off the tensioner. But still seems odd it stays in the same position whether cold or warm. The thing is I've been chasing this erratic, extremely mild, idle only misfire that can't be measured in a log but heard in the exhaust note. I know there's no air leak unless it's somewhere in the evap. Afr spot on 14.7. but has 800cc injectors and 3" maf so some scaling has definitely been done in tune. I've replaced all ignition components with OEM Bosch. And eve tried swapping one at a time back to old ones. Plugs have been changed as well as gaps checked. Has excellent vacuum and new intake and throttle body gaskets. New pcv system with oversized lines. I've tried pinching off all vacuum just to be sure like my boost gauge wasn't leaking etc. fuel trims stay beautiful on short term. But long term idles will slowly dance up to around 10% then back down as you drive. It's driving me bonkers!! Drives perfect pulls hard. Made 350whp on water methanol + 100 octane and upgraded intercooler. But idles like a cammed car almost at times. And not even consistent but almost always when warm. Anyway alter reason to make sure cam timing is spot on when doing this job. If anyone has insight into the hub and tensioner questions. I see lots of videos but none specific to these questions and on the 2.3 t9 2004 single vvt.

You better not just slap a timing belt on with the cams just pointing anywhere else you'll crater the motor. Physical timing, not spark timing. Physically the #1 cylinder has to be at tdc when the crankshaft marks are on the mark for physical timing. The car had a crank gear that stripped and rotated 60 degrees and after I reset the crank and cam gears once, the crank gear rotated an additional 60 degrees - the crank gear being stripped allowed this to happen. I changed it, physically timed it with all marks aligned (which, by the way, does indeed mean that when the crank Mark is aligned, the #1 piston is on top dead center) Actual spark timing is controlled by y computer,

@@CaptainSeamus bullshit...set timing marks on crank and cams and stick the belt on worked for volvo since 16 and now 41 so feel free to tell me im wrong if didnt take the cam vvt hubs off just lign the marks

@@benrage5373 any tips you can give to ensure timing is set properly b/c I'm having the same issue right now. Did a timing belt job on my mom's S80, nothing moved (100% sure) but now it won't turn over. Crank & everything lined up & stays aligned when I rotate crank. Any suggestions???

@@benrage5373 hey Ben. In this case, yes you are wrong... Please read the other comments - this was because the crank pulley threw the nut off, allowing it to shear and spin a ways - When it was all reassembled with a new crank pulley and a new nut, then you are correct, but this was in the middle of figuring out wtf was going on. Btw this is Volvo #16 for me, worked on them since I was a kid growing up in an auto shop - built and raced B20 based rally cars in the late 70s - so yeah, as dumb as everyone who thinks they know everything about white block volvo saying 'you don't base time a 5 cyl' ummm. I listened to my own mind saying the same thing for over 4 weeks - and would be to this day if I just stayed inside your box - taking the time to tdc base time it allowed the motor to run again for a few minutes until the crank pulley jumped again, thus giving me the diagnostic that it had to be on the crank and not electronic or cam related. So get over yourself. I suspect you'd have had it towed out and not ever repaired it, because you would have never thought to check this.

@@OFPGOAT a few questions: was this just replacing the timing belt when it was running before, or was it a broken belt? Does it turn over but not start? You said you can turn it by hand. If the starter doesn't run at all, that is a starter issue (wiring or the starter itself). If it cranks but does not fire, you may be looking at a no spark condition or a no fuel condition. It may also be a crank position sensor going bad (uncommon, but possible). Do you have access to a Vida/Dice setup?