Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, I hope you find the the videos useful.

Hi Chandra, thanks for your comment, I'm glad you like the videos.

Thanks Axetone, I'm glad you like them, thanks for your kind comments.

+West L Thanks glad you like it

😎👍👍

Thanks Mate, good luck with your projects.

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, glad to here it helps.

David Smith 👑 I'm with you on that

Thanks mate, I'm glad you like it.

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, it never ceases to amaze me just who uses these videos, I would never have thought of Interior designers need to know this.

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, I dont think you need to leave quite so much on both sides. these videos may help to clear things up. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jLtmebGHztq8goE.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gpdyftGrtsm0nI0.html

Thanks Nader

Hi Ed, thanks for your comment, I'm glad you like it.

Thanks Mate, I'm glad it was helpful!

Thanks, James, Glad you like it.

Thanks, Jean, Glad you like them.

Thanks Mate Glad you like them

Thanks Mate, glad you like it.

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment although as a TAFE teacher I would hope that the course is at least as good as the videos.

I am trying to get my builder license, so your information is very important. If you have any advise please share it with us. Thanks

Thanks Mate, I'm glad you like it.

Thanks, Mate, Glad you like it.

Thanks mate, Great to hear!

Thanks Mate, glad you like it.

Thanks, mate, I'm glad you like it.

Hi Omer, there are over 200 up at the moment and i still have a few on the drawing board.

V Kirisome 👑

Thanks Mate, Glad you like them!

Buildsum

Our builders installed metal braces in the walls but forgot to nail them down. So you walk around on 1st level and the walls have a metallic vibrate sound. And on the ground floor, the wall mounted clothes dryer makes the metal braces vibrate. I ended up having to pull off sections of the gyprock and screw the brace properly to the studs and noggins. Hey nice video - I never understood that large plyboard - it's a brace! Makes so much more sense now - it just seemed kind of random before. Masteron - I wouldn't recommend them to anyone. Message me if you want more info on my experience building two homes with them.

Thanks Joey, Glad you liked it!

Hi Stefan, Yes there are plenty of different names for the members depending on the country, state or town you work in.

Thanks for your comment Peter, I'm glad you like it.

Welcome aboard!

Hi Steve, remember that standards are the minimum that you are required to do so if you want to put in extra timber there is no problem with that. Everything that you have suggested sounds fine.

HI Josif This is a very common practice as it not only saves time with the bricklayer but also looks like a much better job. Have a look at this video it may help kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gpdyftGrtsm0nI0.html

Thanks JB

Thanks, Masi, the position of the secondary studs is determined by the required window opening and everything else goes outside that. The frame company or the person constructing the frame will know from the span of the Lintel is the second stud is required or not.

Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, it is standard to have the noggins in the staggered format and it wont make it any easier or harder whichever way you do it. Just be aware some products, like "Blueboard" need to have the edge of the sheet continuously supported. Hope this helps.

Thanks, Mate.

Hi Mate, to be honest I have always found having a left handed person as part of the team is very useful. They can get into some areas, to nail, where righthanders can't. However as for a left handed hammer I think your boss is pulling your leg.

Thanks Mate, Glad you liked it!

Hi Mate, again i dont but this channel may help kzfaq.info/love/RVvh18wdBhwaBLplQ2XZaw

Buildsum cheers!

Hi Grant Have a look at this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jLtmebGHztq8goE.html All window manufacturers have a window schedule that will give you the opening size required for their windows. It should be availble on their website.

Hi David any clad wall with a bracing panel would need to be packed out the same thickness as the bracing sheet

Hi Mate, sorry im not a tiler.

Hi Samuel, the standard here in Australia is 450mm or 600mm however it really depends on the lining and the cladding that you will be attaching to the studs. Manufacturers will specify the minimum support required so that should be your stud spacing. Hope this helps.

@@Buildsum thank you for such a fast response, yes this helps a lot already. Also it clarifies a lot why i found so many different opinions. I will then indeed contact the manufactur, is this normally the manufacur for the lining and cladding? or the manufactur for the studs. anyhow, thank you a lot :)

Hi Sam, no problem, You should be able to get hold of the installation manual for what ever Cladding or Lining you decide to use.

Hi Uri Yes, we commonly use 90 x 35 or 90 x 45 instead of 4 x 2s, yes same for flooring and Top Plates. Not sure about the use of noggins in the US but they are a requirement of Australian Standards kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i7RkiMhpp83Pgmg.html Page 34 in this document may help www.vba.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/29063/Guide-to-Standards-and-Tolerances-2015.pdf However, this refers to after the straightening process complete, not how you by them out of the store. Personally, I would not buy bulk timber from Bunnings a local timber yard would be better, however, some bowed timber is unavoidable. The worst can be used for the shorter members like the noggins.Yes, all bows should be put in the same direction to make straightening easier as per the How to Straighten a timber wall frame Hope this helps

Thanks heaps. Yes I saw that video after I commented - great work thank you and happy new year :)

Uri Auerbach noggins allow you to fix standard plaster sheets on there side. They also stop flex on the stud. Australian sizes will match American measurements as everything originated in imperial before we converted to metric. That why timber comes in lengths of 1200, 1500, 1800, 2100 and so on. It's just feet converted. Our studs are 90x45. That 4"x2".

Hi Sophie, Steel frames would be basically the same however as they need to be engineered it is not something that you would be building onsite yourself.

Tony Adams Hi Tony All timber sizes and spacing are determined using the AS 1684 Timber Framing Code and mainly depend on the size and the weight of the roof and the grade of the timber that you are using. Non load bearing internal walls can be 70 x 35 mm structural pine spaced at 600mm centers as the are taking no weight. However I have never seen or calculated 70 x 35 mm structural pine for External Load bearing walls. The smallest I have seen was 70 x 45 however this was for a corrugated iron roof with no notching to the studs. I would suggest that you get hold of a copy of the Timber framing code applicable to your area and have a look at that or consult with a builder or building consultant.

Thanks for the answer. I appreciate it Thanks Tony

Tony Adams 👀

Hi Steve, thanks Mate.

Hi Mate, nowadays you need to use 90mm nails for nailing the plates to the studs.

Thanks!

Luis Melo Hi Luis in Australia we have Australian Standards that help us to calculate the sizes of the framing members the main one being AS 1684 Timber Framing Code. I would imagine that you would have the same. Other wise most material manufacturers produce their own span tables that you can use to work out the size required for thier products

Hi Mate, the spacing depends on the lining materail and could be 450m or 600mm for any of the walls.

Hi Darren hope this helps kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZt7krZ-vJ3Dm4E.html

Perfect, thank you!

Hi, it depends on the amount of wind load that will act on the building and the amount of resistance that the bracing unit gives. Some framing companies put a diagonal brace on every wall so it easier to install and plumb the walls.

Hi Roger Personally, i didn't use any software it all comes off the plans. The wall should be braced after they are all stood and plumbed, however, it is common for the bracing to be tacked in place on the ground because it is easier to do then, however, they need to be able to be adjusted if needed once stood.

is than mean the floor plan is enough for you?

Hi Roger The floor plan and the elevations should give you all the information that you need when used with AS 1684.2

Get frame dimension off plan to build your own. If being made at factory use MiTek 20/20.

Yes Pete The bracing would have to be fitted internally and the rest of the stud packed out to match.

Bugger! Ok thanks, I will need to come up with another solution then as it's not the whole wall that will be stripped. Imagine an open plan kitchen (yes with tiled splashback) adjoining the dining area. It's the dining area that will receive the new opening and the kitchen area (on the same wall) will for now be left untouched. The interior studs will need to remain in their existing plane. I don't think I'm the first to need to do this, so I'm surprised I'm finding it difficult to see how others have coped with this situation. A the moment I'm considering leaving a 450 mm bay in the corner and inserting bracing, basically as a site built "Pryda short Wall Truss". Alternatively, inserting additional framing and fixing some sheet bracing to that frame so the bracing could go internal, and inserting that into the bay, ie that bay would appear as if it had jack studs with double top and bottom plates (if that makes sense) and tying it to the plates with coach bolts. The wall is on timber bearers. Either way I'm wallowing around is a sea of uncertainty as to how either of those brainwaves stand in the eyes of the code! I figure it simply needs to withstand the wind loading, and it shouldn't matter how I get it there. Ha ha ;)

HI Pete To be honest the reason you cant find anything on it is because you are delving into stuff that a structural engineer would normally be consulted on. While you plan sounds feasible and reasonable to me it would need certification.

Thanks

+jivara sulaiman Hi Jivara Yes you will need to know the Stud opening dimensions for your window, you will also need to consider the Drop Off of you eaves if you have one. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nthppNpjz8i9k6M.html The lintel should be above this. It is common practice to place the lintel hard up under the top plate and then just frame out to suit the window. Hope this helps

+Buildsum Thanks that is helpful!!

jivara sulaiman 👀

Hi Jon This video might help kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jt1gZJt4zrG7pas.html&lc=Ugw8Uq2CJBnP1eX3WmF4AaABAg

9

Also "nogging" and "Blocking" (or "Fire Blocking") :)

Hi Sergio I'm sure that the same member is called many different names depending on where you come from, English speaking or not, even here in Australia we have different names depending on the State or Town you were trained in so it is confusing. The names I have used are written in the Australian Standard AS 1684 - Timber Framing Code.

Thank you! Good to know.

Hi Alex It is easier to attach the ply brace before you erect it however once you stand the wall up you wont be able to plumb it if necessary. I would tack the sheet on in the corners to hold the wall square but still allow you to adjust if after standing if necessary. Thanks for the feedback

Buildsum thanks for replying. what do you mean by plumbing the wall? would you only need to do this if the floor wasnt level? so say it was a timber sub floor, you then erect the wall, and nail the bottom plate down, then, if you havnt attached the ply yet, you have a little bit of lateral movment to get the studs nice and plum, but even if you attach the ply only in the corners you still wouldnt have much lateral movment to play with i think

HI Alex Yes in theory you should only need to plumb the wall if the floor is not level however in practice you always seem to need to adjust slightly. By tacking the corners this will allow you to keep the wall square while you move nd stand the wall and then you can easily release the 2 bottom nails and make the adjustment while the top nails hold the sheet in place. Once all the walls are Plumb you can then go around and nail them all off

usually they nail the ply wood after the wall is erected

Thank You, Hossein

@@Buildsum can you please sharing some info about how to contact each walls

Hi Peter, you would have to have a look in the roof and see if there is any supports landing on top of that wall before you start doing anything with it.

@@Buildsum thank you. Will do so.

Hi Pete Multiple studs are just nailed to each other, the bottom plate and the lintel itself. As for the bracing i have never really worried about it, the metal diagonal braces contribute very little bracing effect in the whole scheme if things however the only way would be to strip off all the Gyprock on the inside and add the ply brace to that wall then Gryprock back over. There is no way of doing it without increasing the wall thickness thai i know of

Buildsum ok thanks. In the example I was thinking of the plaster will all be coming off anyway, it's a 50 year old house so I may as well straighten the remaining studs as required and hang new gyprock there anyway; a very small cost in the grand scheme of things as I'll definitely be doing all the non-structural work myself anyway. The only way I could think of to sheet brace it would be to pull all the required common and corner stud out too, basically "pre-fab" replacements with the bracing in place, then reinsert into the existing top/bottom plate as one unit, if that makes sense. It would need to be done as the first op, otherwise essentially the whole wall is propped if the lintel is already installed. The only other way I could think of would be to check it in to the front of the studs, but I think that would be very time consuming and not very practical solution.

Joel Kerley Hi Joel Thanks for your comments. The plate across the bottom of the door is only temporary during construction and transport, once the wall has been stood and fixed in place it is cut out.Yes we use headers or Lintels over our doors as well but only in load bearing walls. As for timber sizes we commonly used 70 x 35, 70 x 45, 90 x 35 and 90 x 45 but noting larger. The timber brace used to be fairly common however steel bracing and sheet bracing is now being specified by the Structural engineers so we have to used them instead. Again thanks it always great to hear how things are done differently in other parts of the world.

Hi Mate, Yes if this was to be a load bearing wall the door would required a lintel however it was just drawn for the purpose of the terminology. However, here in Australia at least, we dont require the double top and bottom plates for load bearing walls as long a certain conditions are met. They are covered in this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZt7krZ-vJ3Dm4E.html Hope this helps

+tamkin pashton Hi Tamkin This seems like a good article that should answer your question www.propertyobserver.com.au/finding/residential-investment/house-and-land/17170-the-13-steps-in-the-construction-phase-of-building-a-new-home-jo-chivers.html

+Buildsum thank you very much sir. I really appreciate it. I always watch your videos.

T S very good question👏👏👏

Hi luis, I use SketchUp for all my drawings

Hi Raymond, the metal bracing can be used as a tempoary bracing to hold the wall square and plumb while tha ply and the internal lining is installed. Also not all countries sheet the entire out side of the building with ply they only use ply if the metal bracing is not going to be sufficent. Hope this helps.

Hi Mate, that is a pretty subjective question as it will differ depending on the type of timber you are using, the length of the studs, whether the wall is loadbearing or not, roof loads, the country you are in and other factors. However as a rule of thunmb, any opening that is wider than the stud spacing being used will require a Header (Lintel) of some sort and nowdays it is quicker to use a Jamb Stud to support is rather that checking the Lintel into the single Window stud. Hope this helps

@@Buildsum hi mate thx you for your reply ,i see what you mean ,i try to get answer as is so hard a carpernter to do you work now days ,thx for the help

+Chunyang Tai Hi Chunyany i use Google SketchUp for all my drawings

Thank you for your prompt reply! I actually just realised by going into your channel which clearly states Google SketchUp is being used. Love you channel - very informative, straightforward and clear.

HI Adrian, good luck with that, unless the wall is going to be connected to the ceiling at both ends then there is no chance of not having it move side to side.

@@Buildsum is there a Max wall height limit at which it can be done?

No mate, it will have to be attached to the ceiling at least both ends regardless of height. The connection does not have to be the wall continuing all the way up, you could use decorative features to make the connection and keep the open look going.

@@Buildsum Thanks for the advice

Hi Vinnie, I use Sketch Up for all my drawings

Hi Mike, If the wall was a load bearing wall then yes you would however they are not required on a non-loadbearing wall. You could make the assumtion that because there is a window in the wall shown then it is most likely an extenal loadbearing wall however it was just drawn to show the members that are in a wall not as an actual wall in a building. Hope this helps

Hi Mate, yes I use SketchUp for all my drawings

Thanks Mate

AS 1684 in Australia.

Buildsum Ok cheers, can't afford the AS 1684.2, so as a first time renovator just making sure everything I do is to standards

Thanks very helpfull

Michael Manning 👍

HI Mate Actually there is no need for a double top plate unless your trusses or rafters fall more than 1.5 time the depth of the top plate away from the stud. The other reason you commonly see double top plates is to lift trusses above internal walls however you could just make the internal walls shorter and achieve the same result. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lbpliLOeldrZg3k.html&lc=z12iitxyiuibs111u23igvqqhs2rddsgn04 As for the lintel, while technically, not correct for a load bearing wall it is acceptable for a non load bearing wall and i had already shown a lintel in the video. Other than that thanks for your comments.:)

Hi Ryan, yes it is the essentually the same for metal frames.

Hi Mate,sounds great, you can send it to builidsum@gmail.com if you like.

@@Buildsum great stuff, I'll get it into a send-able state. I took some videos on my channel if you wanted to have a look before hand..?

@@Buildsum is that the correct email? is that 'i' after L correct?

@FrameCAD sorry, Buildsum@gmail.com

Hi @Buildsum, did you manage to have a look?

+Alex Scott (AlexDesign) Hi Alex It's Google SketchUp

Sounds like you got hit hard in the noggin? It's called a dwang bro? ;😜 😎 🤙🇳🇿

Hi Mate I use SketchUp for all my drawings.

@@Buildsum thanks so much