Want to get better at board climbing?

Рет қаралды 17,345

Күн бұрын

Training boards can be an intimidating place, but they’re also some of the most effective training tools you’ll find in any gym and arguably the best way of gaining strength and power!
There’s a reason the world’s best climbers use them on the regular!
This episode is brought to you buy Apex Cool labs. We are firm believers of supporting worthwhile brands and products. Maintaining optimum temperature can be hard, especially in hot and humid conditions.
The Narwhals are specifically designed by passionate climbers and physicists to help you maintain peak performance for longer.
It’s not a gimmick, just read the science supporting palm cooling for sports performance.
Click here: www.apexcoollabs.com/?... to go to their website, look into their amazing products and a little more info on how they can help you, not only with your climbing. We will see more and more of these in world cups and at the crag!
As mentioned in the video above, please listen to this podcast by @hubermanlab here: www.hubermanlab.com/episode/s...
Stanford University has researched this topic extensively, and you can find out a little more here:
news.stanford.edu/2012/08/29/...
Research Paper: pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22076...
Other research papers:
commons.und.edu/pt-grad/774/
Please visit our website to get more information: www.roapcoaching.com/
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✅ For Business Inquiries: robin@roapcoaching.com
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• Footwork for Climbing
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✅ Other Videos You Might Be Interested In Watching:
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• What’s the REAL differ...
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✅ About ROAP Coaching.
ROAP Coaching brings Robin O’Leary (RO) and Alex Puccio (AP) together to combine their knowledge so that they can help climbers from around the world achieve their goals, reach their potential, and learn the nuances of climbing, movement, training, and the mind games that make the difference. This channel will share coaching videos and climbing, traveling, and training videos.
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Пікірлер: 47

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Sorry for the arrow errors! We are in Oklahoma with a 1mbps upload speed and it caused some uploading issues! Other than that, we hope you enjoy these tips! Thanks for watching 😊

@Arithmophobia 2 ай бұрын

what are you doing in oklahoma

@Captain-Jack-Climbing 2 ай бұрын

This episode is for me hahaha. My right shoulder hurts these days and taking some days off to rest. But I start to love 65-70 degrees kilter board.

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Haha, yes Changyue!!! But 65-70 is seriously tough!! Keep up the hard work buddy!!!

@hannahmorrisbouldering 2 ай бұрын

Board climbing and Puccio power are practically synonymous for me at this point. Great video guys 😊

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Ahhhh Hannah!!! We miss you guys out here! Yes, it’s something I do love!! Have you been board climbing? Doing your homework? ;) sent “that” project yet?

@ejl74 2 ай бұрын

Another banger! So many great tips.

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Thank you so much!!! Appreciate your time and support!

@KevinRGorham 2 ай бұрын

Such good information, thank you. I have wondered about some of the stuff before and after watching this it just clicked and now I know why I do some of those things.

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Thank you so much, glad it clicked!! Psyched for you to implement it next time! Thanks for watching 🙏

@schneesi 2 ай бұрын

Very interesting! 🤗 Especially your demonstration at minute eight. Somehow I know that 😅😉 Simply incredibly valuable content again!! 👍🏽Thank you two!

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Thank you Inès!! Lots more to share on the nuances, but this video was long enough :) Thanks for your support as always! :)

@Paydrohhh 2 ай бұрын

I’m addicted to the kilter and like you guys said, the natural progression that you experience working through projects until they eventually go down 🤙 I was hoping to see one of you hit subliminal skull in the video because I just recently ticked that one off my list! Thanks for the tips!

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Ahhh, mega! It’s a great climb, good job! Yep, addictive and always there when you get tired of the set climbs in the gym! Thanks for watching 👊

@yogyclimbs 2 ай бұрын

Your videos are really a new benchmark! Subscribed! One question about the 'shoulder sagging': Is it possible that people do it because their RFD is so bad that they need to "smear" the making-contact over a longer time? I feel like this is the case for me at least sometimes.😊

@roapcoaching917 Ай бұрын

Yes, good observation. But it looks slightly different in that the hand hits, then the shoulders sag, then the hips fall away and the shoulder collapses.

@summatim 2 ай бұрын

Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖 0:01: Introduction to Board Climbing 1:38: Warm-Up Routine 2:09: Footwork and Hand Grip 2:31: Video Analysis and Progression Tracking 3:40: Maintaining Body Tension 5:09: Directional Force and Shoulder Tension 8:35: Dealing with Insecurities and Over-Pulling 10:27: Efficient Climbing Techniques 11:16: Dynamic Climbing and Grip Positions 13:14: Smearing Techniques 13:33: Importance of Surface Area in Climbing 14:35: Technique for Efficient Climbing 16:02: Training Contact Strength 18:53: Benefits of Cooling Products for Climbers 20:16: Encouragement to Use Climbing Boards

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Thank you!!! Forgot to do it this time

@summatim 2 ай бұрын

@@roapcoaching917 , you're welcome! ❤️

@fabianschonfelsler7198 2 ай бұрын

Thanks for this very informative video! You are excellent at putting complex climbing moves into words👌💪! - Do you generally initiate the next move from a "relaxed" shoulder and straight arm position, unless you need the extra upper body tension due to the relative directionality of the starting holds? - Do you intend to maintain lower body tension to keep your hips always close unless you are transitioning or sagging to generate the next move?

@roapcoaching917 Ай бұрын

Thank you so much! Good questions: 1. As I mentioned in this video, I'll go from being engaged to relaxed depending on the moves, holds and climb. I tend to not initiate from collapsed shoulders as they are more vulnerable, so the shoulders will engage typically before the hips move except for maybe small bumps. 2. Yes, again depending on the move, the lower body tension is key - even if the feet are front on and bum is away from the wall - pressure through the feet is key. That said, for the key moves when we are making bigger moves that we don't want to just "pull" through, the core tension is crucial! Typically becomes more important throughout the move and once you connect with the next hold. Sometimes we need to initiate in a "sitting" position, so the hips aren't necessarily "close".

@jazddotlive 2 ай бұрын

Great content as always! What is that classic V7 around 5 minutes? I cannot see it in the description 😞 Thank you

@Captain-Jack-Climbing 2 ай бұрын

Kiel training 1:4

@roapcoaching917 Ай бұрын

yes Changyue!!

@jazddotlive Ай бұрын

@@Captain-Jack-Climbing Thanks again, I just noticed that at 5:52 the name of the boulder is displayed...was it always there?? Not sure how could I have miss those big letters 😀 It is a nice climb as I imagined, managed to flash it 😎 Felt similar or maybe slightly easier to my boulder 'Xrossing' at 40 degrees

@hydra66 2 ай бұрын

I struggle to even hold the starting holds on a wooden board. Something to work towards

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Can be brutal hey?! To get used to the boards, as an exercise, keep your feet on the floor but toward the base of the board and traverse your hands back and forth. Turn feet and hips as if you were climbing, but get used to the aggressive angle on your hands and core. Definitely a good introduction! Thanks for watching

@joolsgrommers1466 2 ай бұрын

When using a pogo (moon kick etc) do you focus on the knee driving up, or kicking the foot itself?

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Great question and something we’ll be covering in more detail for sure. Essentially the key is helping raise your center of gravity. The use of a full leg as a pendulum creates more weight and therefore helps much more. If you need your hips to be in a specific position, or perhaps it’s not quite so big, you can get away with a knee lift and hip thrust, but for the biggest moves you need the full length of the leg kicking. A common mistake we see when people pogo is that they don’t swing it enough and bend their leg when making the move, killing the purpose.

@joolsgrommers1466 2 ай бұрын

@@roapcoaching917 Thanks for the reply! Big Texas on the Kilter requires a big pogo, but it kinda feels like my hip interferes with the trajectory. Maybe one of the few times I feel flexibility might limit me a touch. Also need to practice pogos more, don’t need them often as I’m quite tall.

@roapcoaching917 Ай бұрын

Hard to pogo when tall if the wall is 45 or steeper. Sometimes it’s a knee pogo

@DrSenorFishTacos 2 ай бұрын

I wanted to probe into Alex's comment regarding shoe stiffness. I was under the impression that softer shoes make board climbing easier (because softer rubber allows you to dig into holds on overhangs). Can you clarify this?

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Great Q. Yep, we’ve seen this error made by many a climber. Essentially a softer shoe is more likely to flex, meaning it will throw away the “power” you want to drive through your toes. This is more likely, in turn, to lower your heels and therefore push your bum away from the wall. A stiffer shoe (not talking beginner/edging shoe) gives far more support, helping you keep heels higher (when driving) and allowing you to pull in to the holds more. There needs to be a happy balance between “feel” (soft) and strength (stiff). Hence why Alex is wearing a scarps vsr, which is considered exactly that. I will always switch into old school solutions to gain more height through moves and on smaller holds, if I’m struggling.

@joshuawestlund Ай бұрын

@@roapcoaching917can you give a few more shoe examples for us. I get VSRs being considered a good balance of soft/stiff. What would be some other stiffer shoes to consider? Are you talking about solutions as soft or stiff?

@roapcoaching917 Ай бұрын

Yep, I’m 6ft 2 and weigh 180lbs (Robin). I wear futuras, theorys, solution and comp solutions. If I want to get more “power” through my feet and help my hips stay more engaged/closer to the wall, I’ll wear good old solutions. Makes a difference. Essentially, the softer shoes have evolved due to more modern climbing, volumes, bouncing, jumping etc. But the feel comes with less rigidity

@jakehowell639 2 ай бұрын

What are the two things they’re holding onto after the climbs?

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

They’re the Apex Cool Labs Narwhals. Palm cooling. Watch the end of the vid and check out the description for more info

@jakehowell639 2 ай бұрын

@@roapcoaching917 thanks!!

@Jacob0481 16 күн бұрын

Is a houdini considered matching?

@roapcoaching917 15 күн бұрын

Great Q! If both hands don’t touch the hold at the same time, it can’t! :)

@Jacob0481 15 күн бұрын

@@roapcoaching917 thanks lol, my buddies and i have been debating this for a while. :

@roapcoaching917 6 күн бұрын

What’s the consensus?

@theemptyset715 2 ай бұрын

Omg that's a tb2

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

The chosen board of many! Your fav?

@theemptyset715 2 ай бұрын

@@roapcoaching917 yes its so fun

@hkkrach 2 ай бұрын

Only got a 50° kilter and can barely even do the V0s 🫣 Ah well I'll eventually get stronger 😂

@roapcoaching917 2 ай бұрын

Yeah, that’s a brutal angle!! Definitely keep trying to do volume on the v0s. Over time that’ll create a solid base. Plus, they’re definitely not v0 at that angle!!