Thanks. Just went through the receipts. Looks like the current cluster that's in the truck was replaced by the dealer in 2013. I just found an article regarding the brake booster. Looks like in 03 they used an assist brake booster pump and it's no longer in use/production and no replacement can be had. My current one has failed. So I imagine I need to program my cluster to disregard this message. #PIT3568B

@@stevenlawrence5750 click on the link right above your post that says click here for my contact information.

@@jeffescortlx can you program the trans temp gauge with the tech 2 boss

@@danielprocluster not exactly. The tech 2 can't do much of any programming with out the help of a PC and subscription service.

You just have to keep following the trace until you find a good spot. A cleaned via will work too

@@jeffescortlx okay that's what I thought but i wasn't sure thank you.

Some of my newer videos have microscope video footage to see the jumper location better.

As far as the thumbs down, some people are hard to please. And that's ok, I don't loose any sleep over it. As long as I'm over 50% thumbs up I'm doing ok : )

Typically they can get damaged if the needle is pulled straight up and off, instead of twisting first to break it free.

Could be a bad oil pressure sending unit, or a short to ground assuming higher oil pressure equals lower resistance to ground. Does it stay maxed with it running too, or just key on/engine off?

Daniel Tait I don't wear a esd strap. But I also don't work on carpet, my chair is leather and if I get up and sit back down I touch the ground pin on my power supply. Plus my tools and mats are esd safe.

Sorry I do not. But it's possible to follow the traces back to the test points and solder jumpers there.

If you check out some of my newer videos with microscope footage you'll see I just use solid strand wire lead to restore the ripped off pads.

Sorry I can not. I can only flash EEPROM information, unfortunately the steering wheel options along with MPG and extra trip functions are in the processor chip.

My newer videos are done under a microscope so its easier to see what I'm doing. Go to my channel page to see more. The pads get pulled from a combination of too much heat for too long with too much force.

Jason Smith What's wrong with it?

Just going off memory, but I think it's under body>instrument cluster>special features.

The odometer value is stored in the cluster. So if you get a junk yard unit that came out of a truck with 300k miles, it will show 300k miles in your truck. Plus there is a high chance there will be something wrong with the junk yard unit, unless it was recently rebuilt before it ended up in the yard.

@@jeffescortlx I was afraid of that ok Thank you

eBay Chinese clone

I like kester 63/37 with AMTECH 559 flux.

@@jeffescortlx thanks

Wisconsin isn't very far from me. Just curious, but are they charging extra for the added time/labor needed to repair the damage?

jeffescortlx yea they charge extra for circuit trace/repair. Check em out gmgaugerepair, I will delete that if u dont want another companies name on here.

I'm not concerned about competition, plenty of bad GM clusters to go around. I don't charge extra for trace repair from failed repair attempts. Unless there is broken glass displays, or broken plastics or unrepairable boards.

jeffescortlx good to know, if these guys who I sent it to don't know what they are doing or can't repair I will send to you for a second opinion

I'm sure it will be fine. They have been around for a long time, they will have plenty of trace repair experience.

I'll check it out. If you want to send it in send me a private message for my contact information.

They already do a counter clockwise sweep when powered up. If you need both directions use a tech2 type scan tool or simulate the data.

jeffescortlx Like on the new Chevy trucks they do a sweep to full scale and back to current reading. Is there a way to program that?

I would think its possible, but that's above my knowledge and ability.

What's the year/make/model of vehicle?

You will need red 3528 smd LED's. Yea unfortunately its cheaper to destroy the led rather then repair the ABS system. Its a dick move, even worse when they go out of their way to break it off rather than put a piece of electrical tape over it.

Thank you for the quick reply.. Both LEDs for ABS (amber) and the brakes failure (red) are removed, so I must order a few of both...

Lol but those are the most exciting!

specially in a walmart bag 🤣

@@jeffescortlx Sure. But just about every industry has seen variations there of. Example:Deconstructed Chainsaws in a bag, box, or my favourite a pillow case. Including carb in multiple parts. Some home mechanics will try the same with their motorcycle engine... Small engine mechanics/technicians amy discount if you bring it just the engine but a box of parts is a pain as you spend more time reassembling the engine and then fault finding the original problem (assuming the fault is still present after cleaning field paths and reassembling the engine)

It's probably the switch in the column. They do wear out.

Nothing is broken. I want a line that tells me the car is our of park so I can add a relay/buzzer to warn the driver that they have shifted out of park while the emergency brake is depressed. The Parking Brake warning light in the cluster is an insufficient warning - my teenagers keep burning up brakes driving with the brake on. So I want to add a buzzer that annoys them if they attempt to drive while the parking brake is depressed. If there is no wire that provides a "not in Park" signal then do you know which two wires form the neutral safety circuit? That would be a second best alternative (such that my buzzer will sound when ebrake set while not in Park or Neutral). I watched your videos hoping to snarf a signal into the instrument cluster - hoping that the PRNDL indicator was set by independent 12v lines... but your helpful vids have shown me that is not an option... that the PRNDL indicator is a data feed. I believe I have determined that the transmission is sending PRDNL as 12V signal from the Neutral Safety Switch. -> The NSS wiring from the tranny looks like this: www.amazon.com/Aokus-Transmission-Connector-Compatible-Automatic/dp/B083543DJY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1O3LXOH356GMK&keywords=Transmission+Pigtail+Kit+for+GM+4-speed+Automatic+1995+to+2004+4L60e&qid=1644774465&sprefix=transmission+pigtail+kit+for+gm+4-speed+automatic+1995+to+2004+4l60e%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-5 -> Here is a wiring map for those plugs: www.replicarclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/4l60e-neutral-safety-switch.jpg That harness carries the signal up from the tranny... and eventually to the dash cluster. Somewhere in-between the tranny and cluster the 12V signals from the NSS harness are getting converted to a data feed sent to the instrument cluster. I.e. there is (presumably) a computer somewhere doing that A (tranny) to D (clutter) conversion. Do you have any idea where that computer is located (is it in the passenger or engine compartment)?

Jurijs S I'm going to guess you have a 2005 revision. They just have bad driver info VFD's that get dim with age and use. 2003-04's don't seem to do this.

This one is actually 03 or 04. Not 05. When you talk about 2005 - do you refer to the driver chip underneath the actual display or actual VFD display? I know it was usually problem with 05-07 clusters. For me it looked like the bad VFD.

My flat rate for the 07-12 is $100. This would cover a LED swap.

Powerloss is more common in the 03 & 04 boards, but yes I've had luck with 05's too.

@@jeffescortlx Can u send me your email address to viperboy6969@hotmail.com with info. I put my 05 Cluster into my 04 today and its still dead. THe lights work but all gauges r Dead Thanks. John I need Shipping address with your cost thanks

@@joeblow4751 Email sent

It was common for 05 to go bad. Rip off. Mine was 600 to replace in 2010

@@rjones93257 well the 03-06 are all plagued with faulty stepper motors. But each year has a different revision board, and the 05's are less likely to have power loss issues. But there are a lot of cluster re-builders out there that charge under $200 now.

The person that originally tried to fix the cluster ripped many of the solder pads off. Since there is nothing left to solder to, I needed to run jumpers. I touch up solder joints that are known to fracture, its just preventive steps to help avoid future issues.

Do you have any better pictures of how you ran the jumpers?

Sorry but no I do not.

Rebuilds/repairs are $120 plus return shipping.

With my home made ECU/BCM bench box.

It's possible the stepper motor was damaged with a needles were removed.

You probably lifted a pad and the stepper motor is only getting 3 of the 4 pins connected.

I thought so. I checked with a magnifying glass but don't see it. What should I look for?

You were right. I checked continuity from each pin to the first connection. (I cleaned the first connection first.) One of them was open. I soldered a wire from pin to connection and the speedometer now works. Thanks.

Bill Wilber good to hear you got it working!

Sounds like your sending unit.

OK lots of questions here we go: Yes I have a tech2 scanner. Yes there is another way to run gauge sweeps. No you cant just apply a voltage. The trans temp, oil, batt, gas and engine temp are looking for a class 2 data signal. The RPM and MPH can sweep from a engine/wheel speed sensor that you can simulate from a signal generator. You can run a sweep with just a tech2 without the AC Delco subscription. But if you want to use it for mileage correction, or Radio unlocking or ECM programming you will need a subscription. Basically it's just a expensive OBD scan tool, with some special features with out the subscription, but if you want to make any software changes to something like to reflash a eeprom you'll need the subscription, and it's not cheap. You could use the tech2 to help calibrate since it sweeps the needle to the exact start and end point, but there are less clunky ways. OK back to work now!

jeffescortlx Ok thanks for taking the time to answer. Lots of good info here

What would be another way to sweep the class 2 gauges? My brother has a Tech 2 but I was just trying to come up with something else for fun, I have been looking at an arduino with an OBD II Uart possibly.

@@eversr007 gm 1 car programming is $40. for a year for that car only . I buy subscriptions all the time to program gm's . $40 for a year on a car is great .

@@sosscarz that just changed. 40 bucks per program now. Our autell scanner has all the sweep functions so far

For quotes send me a email. Follow the link in the top pinned comment.

Rebuilds/repairs on 03-06 are $120 plus shipping. My email us listed under my channel about tab. Visible to Windows PC users only, doesn't work on mobile, because KZfaq.

Yes. Google has it. That's where I found it.

@@jeffescortlx thanks looking for some chrysler and ford too older . Need to find those soldering irons t12 i was ordering a while back and forgot about them . Ur vid on them was awesome

Plug came from a junk yard and the wiring diagram came from Google.

Thank you for your answer. WHat's the voltage of the incandescend bulb in the blue base?

is this the creect diagram? codecookbook.co/2003-chevy-silverado-radio-wiring-diagram/2004-chevy-silverado-stereo-wiring-diagram-complete-new-and-2003-radio/

If your looking to wire a radio, I didn't see the cluster listed there.

Not the radio. My cluster needs repairs. It came from a 2003 Chevy Tahoe. It has soldered "blue base" incandescent bulbs which two of them are burned and need replacement. Plus The CMOS LED that is used for the "check engine" warning has benn unsoldered when the chevy was made "european-able". I need to put on there also. Every info that cas be helpful are welcomed. such as where i could find the female socket plug for the cluster for as less money as possible (it's more than $150 on Rockauto !), and what type of CMOS LED I need. That way I can do like you do : plug it on the workbench and check for my progresses as I made repairs.

If you're in a potential ESD situation than yes I would definitely recommend using ESD wrist strap.

did u disable your private message.. I wanted to get your info

mark corkery there are cluster wiring diagrams all over Google. That's how I found mine. Grab a obd port from a junk yard.

Power not making it into the input of the voltage regulator would.

Yes. Check out my channel, I have a video posted up on that.

If you go to my channel page you'll see I have several video's of this generation cluster going over ripped pads.

jeffescortlx , thank you, saw the video. Very informational, everything is working properly

$2500 that's insane unless the quote included a new transmission to. Nowadays most cluster repair services are under $200.

Probably applied too much heat!

Well not all clusters have the same traits and faults. It depends on what year/make/model vehicle you have.

What's the year/model of vehicle you have? Send me a private message or your email address for contact info. Thanks

You'll need at least two amps to run the cluster and it's backlighting.

@@jeffescortlx It was rated at 2.5 amps, but I didn't test it... Also said 12 V and was only putting out 7 V

@@richc9503 7v under load would just mean it can't provide the needed current. But 7v with no load would mean it's defective/failed.

@@jeffescortlx Thank you, good info!

I did one like 3 years ago

jeffescortlx I’d be interested in a quote for that. It’s just totally dead. It also needs that odometer chip since I guess they’re only programmed to read up to 200,000 miles.

@@brettdelawyer3593 I've never heard about a 200k limit. If it really needs a chip I can't help you there. But I have fixed blank readout.

For that year it could be either. But a good scan tool will help trouble shoot before you start throwing parts at it.

Ebay

You'll probably want to replace the cluster lens.

Hands on trouble shooting would be helpful

You have 3 options: A: Get your hands on the original and have it rebuilt. B: Get you current cluster VIN flashed. C: Get a cluster from a compatible trim level.

@@jeffescortlx thanks! I assume this is something the dealer can do with my current cluster? Getting cluster flashed.

@@photokendall should be able to, but it's up to the tech. You'll need to know the true miles of the suburban, not the miles of the old vehicle stored in the wrong cluster.

@@jeffescortlx thanks, my mechanic said they "should" be able to look at the bcm and other modules to find the real mileage as his scanners allow him to verify mileage... Hopefully the techs are good enough to do so and flash it with actual mileage.

This would have been my old hakko 900m style 888D. But currently using a T12/T15 station and prefer that.

@@jeffescortlx Thanks for the reply! I currently use a Weller (around the house) and the thing hardly works.

A problem like this is going to be hard to troubleshoot without hands on.

I'm going to do that. I like that idea. Now I just have to find a sound effect that isn't copyrighted by Hollywood. 😁

@@jeffescortlx Better yet, pay a female friend or relative to record a scream or treat them to lunch (not to discriminate but female screams work best IMHO for that traditional legacy horror scream)! Instant sound effect! You can use a smartphone to capture the scream using the built in voice recorder app (both Iphones and Androids have them) and record it to a sound file, then email it to yourself.

Andrew Gray I've got a couple of videos going over the repairs set by step. If you're still having trouble you might want to send it in.

jeffescortlx oh ok. Thanks man, I appreciate it. If I can't do it I'll send it in. Looks like you do really good work.

Andrew Gray Thank you. I've got plenty of experience with reworking other people's work. It happens too much unfortunately.

Well said.

For the 99-02, it's reasonable to just buy a cluster with trans temp.

Year make model of vehicle?

@@jeffescortlx 2003 Trailblazer

@@nsmcastillo326 Could just be failing stepper motors, that will keep the gauges from zeroing out.

Depending on what kind of vehicle you have (I have no idea what you own) it could be perfectly fine. Most cluster reset on start up, not shut down.

Tech 2. It's just a dealer level scan tool. It's pretty out dated now. It's from the 90's.

I see you just answered that previously, sorry about that...

Your best bet is get one from a junk yard. What did you do to yours to make it fail? Put exsisive pressure on it to get the cluster to turn on?

Had the cluster out a couple times to replace the stepper motors and lights and reheat some solder joints. I have heard that this can be kinda normal for the plug contacts. Here's some suppliers for connector parts but it requires ordering all the pieces individually(including the "contacts"). www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-12110088-B?r=829-12110088-B Also found the pin-outs here. www.justanswer.com/chevy/6qszm-chevrolet-silverado-1500-2005-silverado-instrument-cluster.html I can't find a pigtail connection through the "stealor". Thought I was being careful enough when I was removing it but, apparently that was still too much for the connector. Have to wiggle the plug to get the left turn signal to turn on now along with other lines that are intermittent. I tried the LED bulbs...what a hassle.

Here is my 2 cents on the connector. The connector and pins don't fail nearly as common as what people think. But fractured solder joints are very common. This is what happens, the cluster stops working so it's removed for closer inspection. It's noticed that when pressure is put on the plug the cluster comes back to life. So people assume the connector is bad and the search for new plugs/pins start. But whats really happening is the pressure put in the plug is also put on the PCB. When the board is flexed the fractured solder joints make temporary contact again.