Flip the rear seat or Cowl upside down, there’s an Allen key on it or space designed for one to help you get to your battery.

What a wonderful 2 year ownership account of this unique SuperBike! Yes, I've also got a 2012 but mine's in Matt Grey and absolutely love its understated looks. The Woolich ECU tune has resolved all the throttle sensitivity at low RPM and she's also programmed to start in A mode. Importantly and although the post tune dyno graph only showed a handful of ponies gained at the wheel, the bike's now able to reach this slightly higher peak power in 1/3 less time (took 8.7sec and now only 5.6sec). Other tuning benefits are much less off throttle decel and the thermal fan is programmed to kick on at 90°C. BTW, it only took 45mins to replace the starter motor which is easily accessed on the left. Simply drain the coolant and remove the thermostat which provides full access. I also run blue coolant with 70% distilled water and she now runs 5°C cooler (more H2O=cooler engine). Your videos are clear and concise 👉🏼 I love them!

Thanks for putting this together! I've had mine since new, a year after the model-year - bought in November 2013, out of dealer storage, for about $1700 less than MSRP. I've never had any starting issues. I did just put a second battery into it, though. Look out! the Yamaha battery has the (+) and (-) terminals, and cabling, reversed from most of the aftermarket batteries. Get an aftermarket battery and you have to lay it on it's side to get the poles in the correct L(-)/R(+) orientation. You talk about it running hot, and I ABSOLUTELY agree. I've a 40 mile each way highway ride to/from work. Within 10 minutes I'm moving around on the seat to shift airflow around my legs and ankles. When you talk about temps, are you referring to C? or F? Mine RIPS on the highway to/from work! Even at 85MPH - Twist the Grip and it RIPSSS!!! I agree on the weight and the slow, parking lot, type of maneuvering - LOTS of clutch lever slippage to keep it rolling without stalling it. Others have already commented about the ALLEN wrench in a clip in the bottom of the "back" seat. Again, thanks for putting this together. Ride On!

Had my 2014 R1 for just 2 years and I'm on my 3rd Battery. Its all to do with the firing order and that as with all other 4 cyl engines that 2 pistons are moving up and 2 are moving down so when you hit the start 1/2 the motor is helping and 1/2 is needing to be pushed. With the Crossplane all 4 pistons are not far behind each other going up and down. So the effort the Starting Motor needs is massive. Like you i have been stranded a few times after getting petrol a few miles down the road and Batt has not yet recovered. I'm 60 (ex racer so slim and pretty fit) but bump starting this was not fun but now i carry a mini NOCO BOOST GB20 in my backpack at all times - weighs only a pound or so but man it can crank out insane amounts of juice and will start my R1 a dozen times before it needs to go on a home charge for a few hours.. I highly recommend getting something similar as flat battery is not only a big pain in the ass but pretty embarrassing bumping it. keep up the good work cheers

Hello from PA, awesome review! I have many of the same inconveniences on my 09 R1 but they are a small price to pay for the joy that my bike brings me. IMO, that cross plane engine is in a class of its own. Let’s not forget about how amazing these bikes sound too! My 09 doesn’t have abs, or traction control, it only has the three operating modes for engine performance. I always make sure I’m in A mode and looking for places to crack open the throttle. On my bike under the passenger seat is a manufacturer designed cutout for holding the Allen key to remove the main seat. Thanks for this video.

Hey, great review, Thank you..Have my 2011 for 5 yrs & Love It !!! Its comoletely modified, although experienced many similar issues as you described, most of it been fixed w upgrades...Ex. Shorai Lithium Battery, ECU flash, Graves FS exhaust, Graves Velocity Stacks, BMC air filter, 300V Oil, 0-Ethanol fuel (quiet expensive but I ride very few/mo), Quatum fuel pump, Davincii Cluster, Domino cables, 80% of bike bolts replaced w Titanium bolts (bike current weight 372lbs/full tank due to mostly carbón fiber features, Brembo M4 calipers (front & rear) Brembo Master cylinder, BreBraketech Rotors, Rotobox CF wheels, Pirelli Tires, K-Texh forks, Rear Shock & dumpner, EK 520 chain w Superlite F & R sperckets and othwr mods...Yes, I'm a went a bit overboard w this one, but its a very special peojecr for a very special bike..Love that Crossplane .It has an amazing sound, and very unique ride experience...Definitely recommend, but certainly agree that has its issues that require expences from stock and letting go off of others for the sake of riding this awesome machine...Cheers

I have a 2012 and your content was instrumental in pushing me to get it.

The factory pillion seat does actually have a hex key clipped underneath to undo the rider seat bolts to get to the tool kit.

Your starting issues are very interesting as mine would start flawlessly every time until the starter started to go bad, once I replaced it we were good to go again - god I miss my crossplane, best bike ever imo lol

Good info, thank you!

Put a little bit more oil in it. I use 1 full gallon in my 2012 and it eliminated the oil light issue. It uses a float sensor and high speed makes the oil move away from the sensor and raises the float.

I’ve got a 2010 R1 from new so apart from traction control which I don’t have I 100% agree with every negative you brought up and I also agree 100% that I’d buy another one in a heart beat !!!

I know that feeling, it's amazing.

Nice video mate!

Good review man

I made an appointment for next week to buy one. It’s on 21.500 km and the owner said he changed two times the battery… This video helpt me a lot for things I will for sure check. Thank you so much sir.

i have an 09 crossplane as well... and my oil light comes on when im riding more aggressive. Ive done a bit of research and asking other bikers... the one thing ive been told is if its hot out , you need to run a thicker oil like 20-50. i have yet to change the oil to said weight , but i will try and more then willing to update here on your page. Also , if you dont have your ecu flashed and a power commander , you are losing about 30% power. these are all things i will be looking into as well as upgrading over time. But i love my crossplane and cant wait to get this bike working at 100% what it SHOULD! i love your videos , thank you so much for posting... also side note... my 09 doesnt have that TCS setting so im stoked on that lol

Great review. Personal opinion, the CP R1 is very smooth at low RPM compared to my Ducati 1299, granted not as smooth as a flat plane though. The bike is around 204kg wet compared to the 1299 at 191kg wet. As the R1 weight is fairly low due to the stacked engine and gearbox configuration I can’t notice much difference at low speeds. The R1 is definitely a wide boy compared to the sleek 1299, not taken the R1 on track yet but so far the extra girth is not an issue. No starting issues yet (7500 miles), but had a lot of issues with a previous Ducati 999. Would recommend replacing the cables from battery to starter, ensure good earth connection to ensure minimal resistance to transfer all that cold cranking amps to the starter. Over time cheaper cable insulation breaks down with temperature cycles. Don’t go stock, there are specialist cable companies that soldered crimped connectors with heat shrink made to order for under $30.

Good day. Hope all is well. Ya the only problem I also have is the cold start. Al I did was install a 4mm sound wire from the positive on the battery to under the pilion seat. If it doesn't start within the first 3 maybe 4 tries I just pop of the seat and jump start it from a car battery. My bike has 77600km on the clock and I had no starter problems. Love my 2012...

First mistake, under the rear seat there is an alen key to remove the seat. It's attached to the bottom of the rear seat. Start problem: I bought an Antigravity 360 CCA 2.5 lb lithium battery for $180, and my 2012 now fires up instantly. It's also got a remote reserve power for jumpstart, plus I saved 5 lbs. Well worth the money.

I honestly had none of these issues with my 09. I had to change from the automatic adjuster to the manual style from gorilla. But other wise never a single issue. None driving wise the throttle is touchy but it was my first bike AND my first time driving a 1000 so I guess I didn't realize it wasn't normal. B mode helped me get use to it Alot though. Now parking lot maneuverable is more a rider issue I think because I practiced the skills for during low speeds and I found this bike to be like a big cam V8. If you have the skill you can get around on the idle aka the cam with zero to no throttle input. Even stop and go traffic it's more of a user issue than the bike there. I was brand new and had none of those complaints. Wouldn't put that part on the bike. My only other issue which is common is the thermostat. After riding it the bike gets up to temp and the fans stay on for a long while. If you're just in and out of somewhere the fans draw Alot of power and bike won't start. Cold starts never any cranking issues as mentioned. But warm starts especially here in Florida were a NIGHGMARE. The fix is a lower temp stat and a tune to have the fans kick off sooner. Fixed all that issue

Hi mate nice video I had to replace starter motor on my 2009 R1 battery as well clutch noise as well and chain tensioner noise are common but it’s something different than any other bike

Great video I am just about to buy a 2012 going from a light weight 954 fireblade so a different beast. I am missing both the sound and feel of V twin delivery and hoping this is a nice compromise between the way a 4 pot and twin deliver the power

You can have the ECU flashed. I did this with my 2013 R1 and had the flash profile custom for my exhaust as well. You can also customize for engine brake changes, as well. Having the ECU flashed in A is standard with my flash as well.

I was about to buy an 09 R1 today but I noticed the seller had difficulty starting it as you described in the video. Then I watched your video and decided to walk away. Awesome machine but I don't think I can deal with cross plane quirks, cold start issues, vibrations etc. Despite being experienced M rider in Ontario, my insurance quoted me $205/month for the R1. You saved me from a big headache today.

I have a 2014 R1 which I have owned for 3 years. Absolutely love it. The bike never starts first time for me, always on the second go when the Lithium battery is warmed up a bit. The oil light comes on every so often but I believe that these bikes have an oil level sensor and not an oil pressure sensor, its never bothered me. Yes the lack of fuel gauge is annoying but I know I get roughly 100 miles out of a tank so I just reset the trip meter every time I fill her up so its easy to manage. The woolich racing ECU map solves the engine mode issue (its always on A now) and smoothes out the throttle. The fans also kick in earlier after the remap. Re the clutch I did the mod (swap 1 fibre plate) and its super smooth now. Easily the best bike I have owned.

Starting issues are fixed with a starter relay. Cost me about $au180. (Australian dollars). Replaced it 3 months ago, never had a problem starting it again. I did the battery changes many times years ago, (I’ve owned 4 cross plane R1’s,) and only recently learnt about the starter relay. Sorry to hear the starter relay swap didn’t work out for you. Generally speaking, I don’t hold down the start button for more than a second or so. 3times out of 10 it’ll start immediately. The other 7 times I back off the button, wait a second, and it starts immediately. It’s a crazy tough engine to start, but i absolutely love it. 👍 Lol, yeah, if you wanna get 200-250km range from a full tank, you can’t ride the r1 like an r1. 🤣🤦‍♂️. Cruising in 6th at 120kph

having the same years and same oil light issues. thicker oil is the remedy.and yup, engine is best when the RPM point north :)

The oil issue is across all R1s. The manual says its because of quick acceleration then the oil light comes on. I have had the same issue as well

Awesome review ! I own an 2009 one in Black and Gold, drive it every single day, tomorrow on the way to work will hit 50.000 km , I had few times problems with the baterry but was fail to start only during winters when I usually startig it ones every 2 weeks from ( Dec - feb ) recharge the baterry and all good! no any other issues as you said consumable are on any bike and on this one you may burn the tyre faster and change a bit faster sprockets and chain but worth every single $ spent on it! Question, does it makes a big difference between 2009 and 2013 one! thinking to go for a 2013 one because of the traction control and ABS ! whats your thoughts on this? Thanks, Safe Ride!

Easy remedy for the default drive mode….When I had it on the dyno we flashed the ecu while tuning and set it to default to “A” mode. 😎👌🏻

Can I just say that bike feel dosent only start from supers. My mt03 First day I owned it, till today. Same feeling everytime I start the bike. This one is mine. Whoooooooooo

I had a 2011 r1 laid it down in 2019 but to add to the oil light issue. Usually beating on it and keeping it in high rpms will cause the oil to get hot causing the light so when I went back to cruising or just letting the bike cool off light would go away on its own. But only was issue when I was racing for extended periods of time

Oil light sounds a bit same as the RB26DETT in R32 GT-R and this happens because oil drain holes are too small from head back to oil pan so high rpm tend to add all the oil in the head and then pump struggles to get any, result is drop in oil pressure and later engine failure. About the starter, when watching endurance races, almost all crossplane R1 struggle to start on start of the race and pit stops, so even factory teams have this problem, maybe when they get even more horsepowerfrom the engine, starting problem becomes worse ? Excellent review buddy

Im a big fan of cross plane.i did experience battery issues,bike so heavy but one thing forsure.ill buy cross plane without even thinking twice. Bike looks and sounds aggressive.i have the bike for almost 5 years now but the joy i get from my cross plane ❤❤❤. Another thing to do when owning this beast is to change your hydraulic tensioner to a manual tensioner, this will save you a lot....cross plane all day everyday If you need help in convecting your tensioner, id like to help.

Hey man beautiful machine! Not many ravens out there! The oil light thing is covered in the owner's manual and Yamaha says it's normal to see the oil level light under acceleration/deceleration or going fast. An ecu flash will allow you to start in A mode and cure touchy throttle and parking lot behavior even coolant temp management and the Graves clutch judder ring update solves launch issue. After making those changes to my own 12 R1 it's a completely different animal! Good luck!

I love the color !

You have to overfill oil by about a quarter quart the vacuum pressure at high rpm causes oil to be pulled up leaving and absence of oil at the bottom. I've been overfilling for 5 years never had this problem again and I push it hard. This is common with all 2009 to 2014 models.

AWESOME VIDEO Do you have a power commander on your 2012 R1. If so will you please make a video about it. I own a 2014 R1 I'm thinking about putting one on mine. What do you think. Thanks

I’m on the opposite end when it comes to maintenance. My 09 is the one bike that has had the least amount of problems. The heat problem that I had was fixed buy replacing the mid-pipe with an M4 replacement and an ECU flash. The heat was bad but not as bad as riding my old Suzuki TLR (Testicles, Lightly, Roasted😂🤣) That bad boy would cook your family jewels at every stop light.

I had the same bike and everything you said is true, i now have a 2010 r6 .

I always run a bit extra oil in mine.. I use pretty much all of a full gallon... At that sustained rpm you were getting some drain back issues, IE: its not draining back to the sump as fast as its pumping it thru the engine.. That extra bit helps..

When starting, I have found that if you give it a blast for 2 seconds..... let it sit for a second. Then hit it again. 2 seconds let it go. Then it always strikes on the third hit. It also doesn't hurt to keep the battery topped up. I have a quick connect lead fed from the battery to the back seat to attach a charger without having to get the Alan key out. Also the oil issue at high RPM, its usually an oil frothing issue when at high RPM. I mean 15 mins at 14k is difficult for any system to deal with. I got the same on throttle and low end. The 16 -1 tooth delete is the way to go. And Yes a very hot running bike. up to 108 C on mine. It brakes like a brick out of a skyscraper... it doesn't want to stop. And yes it has the weight of a fat guy.

I've owned 3 of those 09,12 and 14. Interesting the issues you've had I've never experienced any of that? Overheating yes, fuel terrible but I could get 100 miles to a tank which is normal to me. Good vid

Had an 09. And have a 14. Oil light still coming on all the time. I just ignore it at this point. Ive owned them since 2009. Never had to replace the starter and I live in Florida ride year round.

I have a 2013 and it’s a beast

Oil light. Fill it to the maximum. You need high quality oil. If your oil is foaming the light will turn on.

Please check your oil pressure sensor

I've had mine now 6 months. Not managed to do many miles on it (about 250 miles), the weather in my part of the globe isn't that nice. I ended up buying a Shorai Lithium battery. I run the charger on it every week or 2 just to keep it cycled. Mine fires up after the 3rd or 4th try. The battery cranks faster every try until it fires up. It never fires up 1st time but always fires up after a few goes. It's a bit of a pain, especially when I decide I'm going to take it to work and it's backfiring at 6:30am. The neighbours hate me. In regard to the throttle map. A, B or STD. I find (A) makes the bike jolty. STD works fine for me, but I have a lot less experience on 1000s. The roads are quite bumpy which causes me to bump the throttle a tiny bit, but enough to accelerate when I wasn't ready for it. With all that said, I enjoy it and will definitely keep it through this summer to see if I can learn. After being on 600's, 748's all my life, I had no idea how much faster a 1000 was. Really appreciate the videos. You have been a lot of help to me since considering then buying my R1.

There is a hole where a allen key goes under the passenger OEM seat but not the cowl.

Use oem oil filter for oil light for starting issue fix your power commander tune

Lots of extra weight in that front wheel, I have the 09 Rossi, and was horrified during a tyre change to feel the weight of the front. If you go past 80% throttle you'll know why. Also the front brakes are meant to be soft at first, helps with trail braking, then a good squeeze will always get the rear off the ground! Great bike though, highly recommend ❤

All these bikes Must have a tune if your gonna ride them hard.. They need the fan to come on earlier and or a diff thermostat, you gotta get rid of the catted pipe or it will roast you.. and a good tuner will have you running much more rich to keep it cooler.. They all started coming from the factory really lean for epa numbers of exhaust co2 ect.. When you get that junk off there its a much more pleasant and happier bike to ride on the street. Bar risers were the best money I spent, as I'm 6'2", but everyone that rode it loved them no matter their height..

I have had many R1’s and the last was a 05 I loved it but damn my testicals were on FIRE city riding. I had a fuel light that kicked on reserve light or the oh shit light lol. Does this one have the low fuel light or nothing at all and you just flat out run out? I am looking at getting one but if it has nothing not even a light that will suck. All my other R1’s had a light not an actual gauge.

Under seat muffler super cool 😎

No problem 😉👍

The starting issues are almost always due to the starter relais, because they really like to corrode. It´s kinda amazing that this problem is common in so many generations of the R1... So you should always take a look at that first when it starts to happen, before buying batteries and whatnot. Most likely a new relais will fix it and you don´t need to switch anything else.

I had the 2009 R1 and a 2012 R1. I never had a starting problem. I used the stock battery for 2 years each. I replaced both with a cheap lithium without issue. My rear cowl had a slot fort the Allen key. You may have an after market cowl. Out of the 6 motorcycles I owned, the R1 was my all time favorite. I did not have issues with it at all. Even after having the ecu flashed and and after market exhaust systems installed. You may have a lemon.

I've currently had my 2009 R1 for around 4 months now. Yes, this bike gets very hot. Yes, this bike weighs a lot more than other superbikes. But my god is this thing a monster. I've rode bikes both small and big, but never have I rode a bike as angry as my R1. As soon as you start this bike, it's all sorts of pissed off and just wants you to bang through those gears. It has its flaws, but I don't think I'll ever sell my R1

The oil lamp appears when you pushing the really hard because at high rpm the oil runs to the back and the oilsensor can’t messure the oil stand anymore. If you go at lower rpm for few secounds it will disappear 👍🏼 i talked about it with my Yamaha dealer and he told me that ! So no worries 👊🏼 i Hope you Unterstand 🥸🤝🏼 6:54

the oil light comes on due to the unfortunate location of the sensor in the crankcase, foam rises at high speeds and the sensor thinks that the oil level has dropped and this is absolutely normal, try using a viscosity of 10w60 helped me

Yup, I will be buried with my 2011... also, new oem starter relay helped my starting issue. The beast needs some juice to wake it up

i had same oil isue every time i was going hard on a throtle for a longer period, but since i started using 15/50 or 20/50 yamalube, i dont have that oil isue anymore ,i can keep it oh high rpm whole day

2019 r1 crossplane. I have been facing start problems too. It sounds like the battery is too small and does not have enough juice to start the motor, even of it is fully charged. When the bike is warm, the situation is even worse.

Yo tengo la misma y estoy teniendo problemas con las luces de los faros, básicamente NO SE ENCIENDEN , he revisado fusibles y cables etc etc. , toca llevar al mecánico

They don’t start very easily with the Akro db killers in but mine starts fine with out!

need dyni stend man because in the American version, the throttle closes 22% at high rpm

got a 2009 R1 w/ 45k no start. Got a new starter from Yamaha and a Anti-gravity ATZ-10 lithium ion battery (360cca) and it starts within half a crank every time since and its been 2 years

I dont screw down my seat never had an issue with it moving or anything

I had a 2012 R1 Moto GP 50th Anniversary Edition. I owned it for 10 years. Never had an issue with starting. I had 2 batteries for the entire time I owned the bike. I changed the front sprocket from a 17 tooth to a 16 tooth to make it better for street riding. Buy a new Y pipe and get rid of the catalytic converter, runs cooler. Others have mentioned the Allen wrench location that is also available if you looked at the owners Manual. I never had an issue with the bike ever.

2024 don't have a fuel gauge either. It has a pretty accurate fuel consumption gage. It does not like going slow, but 10k and beyond on a these is 120 mph outside of first gear. My stock 2023 will go 98mph red line first gear.

I have an 09 r1 and Omg trying to start it gives me anxiety now. For 2 months it started like a normal bike but now she just cranks and cranks till I have to bump start it 😢

Hello The lamp lights up when the engine revs too high, because the R1 is the only one of the thousands of bikes that has an oil level sensor and no oil pressure sensor, so when you ride the bike up, the oil comes up and down, you can see that. that it is not oil does not mean that you have no oil. The oil is there But at the moment the sensor doesn't recognize that the oil is down because there is no oil pressure sensor. I often had the oil light on my R1 when I was driving fast. With the best regards

I have this bike, love it except: 1. Virtually nonexistent engine braking 2. Aggressively angled seat pushes me into the tank. 3. Sharply angled clipons. 4. Starter motor replacement 5. High engine compression engine cold winter starts

Everyone says you need to learn on a small bike in order to be a good rider but I started out on a liter bike ZX10R and I out preform guys at the track who quote “started out on a 300/400”

Even my 2004 has starter issues…I think it’s just an R1 thing at this point…no headlights is my least favourite one🙈

The manual says that 210cca is the minimum on battery so no wonder 160cca wouldnt do it, lithiums always take 30-40% more CCA to get it cranking really so youre right at stock battery levels of actual amps itll put out to starter. 360cca is the sweet spot on lithiums. Clutch slipper sucks on the 09-14s($70 easy fix) and 09s have the slapping cam chain tensioner issue(again not too hard to fix) and only SOME had starter issues, and yes they suck to BUMP start (NOT bomb start). and the brake pads are the issue on the bike....NOOT the brakes calipers/rotors ......Otherwise theyre so good anyone can ride em in B mode like a sv650 almost...yet even the best riders can beat the shit out of em in A mode fully leaned on a good tire and never worry about it not doing what they want.

Hi I'm having that same problem with my bike, the long crank, recently I started it up but I gave it a few revs and it died. Can you list the battery you have in your bike? Like brand and model, and what website u got from. Thanks would be a big help. -2012 r1

The oil sign on high rpm is when your bike is still to cold and your sensor gives an error (thats what happend to me) i had this Just one time.. becouse the bike is build for high rpm. Enjoy the bike bro

What is the seat height?

The yellow light comes on when I ride on high rpm on my 2012 r1 any opinion please ??

Go Newer For The Better Technology & Upgrades. The R1 Has Been Upgraded 7 Times Since 2012. R1 Is 1 Of The 2 Best.

How to change the temp symbol from F to C bro?

09:29 what can I do to show the coolant temperature in Celsius?

The starter problem and no abs are a deal breaker for me. I think i need to stick to CBRs and Zx10r.

What’s the link to that battery you used ???

mileage? valve adjustment, starter, starter solenoid

I thought this was my dream bike until i saw this review,thanks to u i dodged a bullet.

Check the wires

i can prove this bike can go 120k miles. i have service 1 from a customer not long ago. and still runs strong.

what is "bomb start " ?

Just found a 2012 raven r1 with only 5,200 miles on it in great shape they are asking 9,999 for it do you think that’s a good deal want to pick it up but I found a 2013 Ducati 1199 panigale for the same price

IF anything is legendary, it's the 2009 cross plane 😂😂😂

Can we install abs on yamaha r1 2008?

Ill admit I chuckled when you said a new ignition with a key would be a couple grand a new ignition with a key is $94 bucks bruh OEM

It's hard to start because the starter brushes are worn out.

With this bike you have to blip the starter two times, then crank it all the way. Mine will start instantly after.

My oil comes on when it’s hot also

Painful to watch. Bought a 2013 Yamaha FZ1 a couple years ago also. Several thousand miles later, zero issues.

Where do you see lithium batteries for $400?! I just got one for ~$100.