I totally agree on all points. Simple setup, Auto bed-leveling, Direct Drive - all these modifications I had to make on my own with my Ender 3 pro and also four of my Ender 3 v2s - they all come built into this printer! Creality is doing a great job listening to their customers and giving them what they want. I only have one boden tube left in my print farm now on my Prusa Mini. Thanks for contributing! -mj

Using s level to verify if your bed is “level”. Level is a bad term. All you did was confirm the bed was level to the surface the printer was sitting on. Your ABL is compensating for any issues with it it being parallel to the x axis. Bed trimming is the only way to “level” the bed. Just an FYI

@@bobbymccourt6794 all I did was print over and over without adjusting anything. I bet nobody likes you.

Wow! That's such a compliment. thank you! -mj

you bet! -mj

Wow! Thanks so much Samur! I really appreciate that! S1 is awesome isnt' it! I'm so pleased with it. -mj

Totally agree

Wow, thank you Stef! I appreciate that! -mj

Thank you trappy! -mj

Wow, thank you! I really appreciate that Emil. I'm newer to the 3d printing game and only got into it when i needed tools for my pottery business that didn't exist yet. I'm really glad you liked the video! and my family :) It is a joy to work and play together! thanks -mj

Wtf where did you study mechanical engineering??

what? I ain't even studying and I know bolts nomenclature

That's awesome, Ojo! Thanks for that. Yeah i got interested/confused one day and started digging.

In case you're in the USA we have a different nomenclature for screws UNC 1/4 - 20 for example is a coarse thread 1/4" nominal diameter with 20 threads per inch. 5/16 - 24 NF has fine thread at 5/16 nominal with 24 threads per inch. There are different uses for coarse and fine threads. Fine threads are for when tight fits are required or for when you have small areas of engagement to hold a lot of preload. Coarse threads will work better with wood or osb and for applications involving quick and/or frequent placement/replacement.

Wonderful! That makes me really happy Trappy70. Thanks for saying that! -mj

Great input Bang Bang! Thanks for contributing that! -mj

Thanks for that Yaacob! I appreciate that. Sorry i went MIA. I'm actually a potter who got into 3d printing because i needed tools that didn't exist yet. I'm going to try to do more on this channel sharing what i've learned in 3d printing and CNC. -mj

Also, are you from Malaysia or Indonesia Yaacob? I've spent time in both nations and love your part of the world very much! Sincerely -mj

@@3Delementary thank you for the comment reply. :) I'm from Malaysia. Thank you so much, hoping as well to travel to your part of the world too!

Hi. I think Micro Centre stocks spares in Australia. I am in South Africa. And low and behold, I have 2 3D shops within 20km from me. Repairs, upgrades, filaments. All within easy reach.

Thank you! -mj

Thank you! I love them very much :) -mj

Glad it was helpful! -mj

Wonderful! How did it go? -mj Sorry for the late reply :(

Awesome! Thanks Troy!

You are so welcome! I'm glad it helped! -mj

Glad I could help!

Thanks so much MK! I appreciate that. -mj

You’re very welcome! -mj

Hi, look into getting a pei flex plate for your printer bed. You can get a textured one or non textured. I was going nuts trying to get the prints to stick. Switched to a pei flex plate and everything I print now sticks very well.

Sorry i'm late to your reply Jamrity. Yes i agree with Calvin. I did not use their build plate but PEI build plates i got for my other ender 3 printers. I like textured PEI build plates where I can print on both sides. I find if i only print on one side they can warp faster but printing on both sides alternatively keeps them good for longer. I hope that helps and i'm really sorry you ahd those problems and i wasn't able to comment. Good luck! -mj

Can I use a glass bed

Hey Paul. I actually had this happen the other day! Solution was adjusting a loose connection at the Sprite hotend. I'll try to describe which connection port was the problem here: Adaptor plate - this is the plate with all the connections that will feed into the ribbon cable. It's actually facing the carriage and gantry when sprite hotend is mounted. if you unmout the sprite hotend and flip the Sprite around you will be looking at the adaptor plate. On the adaptor plate you will see six ports where cables can be inserted. 3 ports on the right side - the top two are labeled fan 1 and fan 2. There are two ports on the bottom: one on the left bottom and one on the right bottom corner. . Then one on the left side, toward teh bottom. This connection LOOKED like it was in place, but when i checked it, it had not snapped together. When i double checked it and it clicked together the problem went away. The problem i was experiencing: Sprite would go to desired temp, then immediately start losing temp until it returned an error. I think the error was "nozzle temp too low". It was able to get to desired temp but unable to hold it there. What led up to this error: I was changing my exisiting Sprite extruder head to an all metal hotend sprite extruder. -mj

thanks for this input nubletten! -mj

You're right... i have one - shot but not edited - therefor not released :( I'm sorry about that. I'll try to get them out sooner. I'm super slow at editing. -mj

You're welcome!

I had the exact same issue. I followed the instructions by auto leveling then I used a piece of paper to adjust the z-offset at the center of the plate. Then, when I started to print a test part the nozzle dragged across the plate and begin etching into it. Obviously, the nozzle was too low. I ended up manually adjusting the four corners of the bed (like you would on non-auto leveling printers) and then I did a auto level, and then I did the z-offset calibration again with a piece of paper at the center of the plate. I also disabled the stepper motor re-checked the four corners again to make sure the nozzle wouldn't dig into the plate again. Finally, in my slicer (Cura) I set it to z-hop when not laying down filament so it won't drag across the plate again. I'm now having an issue of the nozzle not being low enough and the filament not sticking to the plate. I did find a KZfaq video where a person has this same problem and they figured out that their grantry was not squared up. They loosened all the bolts at the top and bottom of the gantry and the vertical strew stepper motors and tried their best to square the sides of the gantry to the top beam. After that, they stated that they were getting perfect bed leveling. I have yet to check that on my printer, but it's worth investigating.

I will put this on the docket Rody. Thanks for asking! -mj

maybe...? it's hard to tell because its in the room with all the other machines. However, i did notice right away that the fans auto shut off when it's sufficienctly cooled. I like that. Not present on previous versions.

you bet! -mj

Hey Dino. I would definitely recommend the S1 over the v2. I have 4 v2s and I have converted all of them into direct drive and installed the cr touch (autobed levling system) in the past 2 months in order to get better prints. the S1 comes with both these features built in and it's slick. You're also looking at a much quicker setup time with the S1. I'm looking at buying more S1s in the near future. They are just so fast to setup and easy to work with. I would go with the S1. If you were to learn how to install all the bells and whistles of the S1 on the v2 you would come out about even financially but having invested a lot of time. I'm actually a potter who has spend the past 5 months or so really pouring into this subject to create better tools for pottery. I woudl recommend the S1

get this one if you can afford. if not the ender 3 pro or v2 is a good starting point still.

I would choose all the dimension parameters to be the same as the V2 except the Z axis. I think that is 20mm taller/larger. The BIG thing to be sure you include is the start and end g-code. Here is what Ender says to put (per their new slicer program): // START G-CODE G28 ;HOME G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw first G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a lit G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up // END G-CODE G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 :retract and raise z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning G1 X0 Y0 ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotted M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

@@3Delementary So you prefer Cura software for slice over the Crealitys own slicer which inlcudes ender 3 S1 as an option ?

Hey J Fpv. I actually use PrusaSlicer as my default because it's what I know best. I like Cura too and would probably use it over this slicer from Creality (which looked like a proprietary version of Cura when I opened it). I think the main value of Creality's software is all the presets for their printers are in there. That's pretty great! -mj

yeah... i'm actually a potter who got really interested in 3d printing and now in CNC machines. I need to get something up online for this. Thanks for the encouragement to do so, Ben :)

Hey Kedar. That's great! Congratulations. Where in India are you located? I ACCIDENTALLY started a print farm a few months ago when a pottery tool i created really took off. I've purchased 5 different models of 3d printers and made modifications on each TRYING TO FIND THE BEST ONE TO SCALE MY PRINT FARM. I found it am recommending the S1 to everyone. It is the best value on the market right now for what I'm doing and my kids and I can't recommend it enough! If you're debating between the S1 and the V2 - here is why I would go with the S1: 1. DIRECT DRIVE EXTRUDER gives me better prints - especially when I have small parameters (like text) facing downward toward the build plate. Direct Drive is where the extruder motor is directly above the Hot End. The opposite is a Boden Tube setup where you have a 12-18 inch boden tube connecting the extruder stepper motor and the hot end. Direct drive lets me print different materials for TPU ink stamps and Ninja Flex rubbery materials as well. All in all direct drive has been the single biggest improvement on my V2s and the S1 has it built in. I have modified all my Ender 3 v2s (i have four of them) and my Ender Pro (one) to direct drive and they all work so much better now - way fewer botched/failed prints. 2. CR TOUCH built in. The BL touch and CR touch were a way to put auto bed leveling onto these Ender 3s. The new S1 has it built in. I've converted all my V2s to CR touch as well. CR touch is probably not essential but if you know how to level manually and have good bed springs but it makes me feel better knowing that the CR touch is leveling on each print just in case things are off. 3. NICE BED SPRINGS. I upgraded all my V2 bed springs and that helped my V2s to stay level for a lot longer. Previous to that I was leveling the bed every few prints. The springs helped a lot and i rarely have to level those beds manually now. 4. FILAMENT SENSOR - this is such a simple modification but it's so helpful for me on these Enders. My V2s i always had to keep a close eye on my prints when i was running low on filmament. I have stacks and stacks of prints that ran out of filmaent before i could change it out. The filament sensor saves me so much material and i don't have to pay attention as much. I need to find a good solution for this for my V2s. The S1 has a filmament sensor built in. I had a large stack of almost finished filmament in the corner of my print room, which the S1 has helped me get rid of :) 5. I'm sure the DUAL LEAD SCREWS helps with the prints as well though I'm not directly aware of it. those are a few points that come to mind this morning. Does anyone else want to share advantages they see to the S1 or in the other direction if you favor the V2? I hope that helps Kedar! Keep me updated on your progress! Sincerely, mj

@@3Delementary thanks a lot, it will be more than enough to get me to my decision, I'll update to you, thanks again pal 👍🏻

Hi. thanks for watching

Hey thanks for this crow guy! I wasn't aware of this until you mentioned it here. It looks like the main difference is the all-metal hot end. Is that what you're seeing as well? I would still put this S1 as the best on the market for "new-bees on a budget" at the moment. I'm really diggin this printer. not sure if i can wait for the Ender 3 S1 Pro to come out to buy more of these. I really like them. Thanks again for sharing this with me! -mj

@3d Elementary The S1 is already high priced for a noob printer. The Pro is just 100 bucks more. The Pro touchscreen isn’t even available as an Upgrade. LED and Full metal alone are as much as the price difference. And you get a PC flex plate as well. The pro is now available, the addons wont be before May. I didn’t expect a pro so fast or the missing upgradebility. I allready regret to have bought my S1 a few weeks to early.

Thanks so much for this! I see your point! I had no idea it would be coming out so fast?! That's crazy? Why did they do that I wonder? 1. I have never used a LED light like that before. Do you like it? Do you have one set up on a machine that you use? I can see how it would be really helpful. 2. I print on PEI like they are how including. That's great! I think those run about $30 each so that's alone brings the price up to another 30+ usd for what comes with it. 3. Love that it has the all metal hotend. That would make ABS and other high temp filaments more accessible to me. I don't print with ABS but do have some potential uses for it! 4. Touch screen doesn't necessarily draw me in but maybe it should. Hvae you seen it in action? I'd love to see it! I would hate to have it be finicky and not work well. I have another large expensive machine with a less than responsive touch screen that i kind of wish they had used a click wheel instead. this is gold Crow Guy. Thanks so much for bringing this up for me. I think this will be my next 3d printer purchase! Sincerely. Thanks! mj

I agree with you on both accounts. The only reason i can give is that it opens up so many opportunities to create things you need, want or imagine. I can't imagine life without it now. Hope that helps Raiza! -mj

you can purchase some extrusions and make any printer Larger, openbuilds has many extrusions to choose from, this is the cheapest way to make your printers Larger.

I really want to do this. i saw there is a laser conversion which was part of why i purchased it but i haven't got one yet. i'll let you know when i do. good input Ba Sook -mj

@@3Delementary good luck. with inflation out of control, everything is over priced