Sorry for the switch. The first version of this video had a missing graphic, and rather than leaving it with a big red hole in the presentation, I fixed and re-launched it. For the 40 of you who saw the bad video--think of it as a 'rare limited edition' and accept my apologies.

This is one of the very best channels for a true education on the history and intricacies of watches. It is a real joy to view any of your, I consider them tutorials, watch revues. I have learned more about horology than anywhere outside of a book. You are an excellent teacher. I wish that I would have had professors of your ability at university.

This channel is so underrated

You know when I want to wind down and relax I always put one of your videos. I find your knowledge superior and the way you present it is very humbling to me. I hope you make many more vids and I hope your channel keeps growing. Tc my friend

Great video Bill. Fully agree with your points about how to identify a good watch. The easy approach is just to rely on the big brands but the trick thing is that this is not necessary true. There are so many pretty ordinary movements inside very famous watches that sometimes I feel they should be seriously questioned about overselling their products! The other way around is true as well. Take brands like Roger Dubuis, Parmigiani, Habring, Bovet who offer amazing pieces but don't get the same attention from the general public. My piece of advice for new collectors is to an extensive research about the models they are interested in adding to their collection to make sure they fully understand what they are about to buy. Cheers

Interesting approach (of which I agree). Thank you. I think I shall watch some more posts....

I come to this video now and then to improve my knowledge on quality. Saying this as a designer. Thanks much sir ~ from India.

Your attire is top notch.

love your passion

I have an old 1944 Hamilton watch my dad wore during WWII while flying B-29 Bombers. I've had it overhauled several times and wore it through my Air Force career flying B-52s and B-1 Bombers. I love that watch and wish you would do a video on old military watches, thanks.

Seeing the thumbnail I thought Richard Attenborough was going to show his watch collection ;P

That explains why I couldn't post the reply I typed out! Below was my response the the example you laid out on the old post since I already typed it out... I agree with your example there which is exactly why I feel that regardless of price range, the best tool anyone has is the internet. Research into what you are purchasing in order to decide if it's a smart purchase. Believe me, I am 100% for honesty in watchmaking. I actually wish there were regulations that required companies like TAG, Omega, Breitling or anyone using a generic movement to disclose what exactly that have done to that movement in order to call it their own calibre. Many times there is no justifiable reason for the price hike aside from the name on the dial. Other times you can see general craftsmanship differences that can justify some price differences. Maybe not 10x, but you know companies will charge it if they can get away with it! I have also learned over the years (as difficult as it may be) that everyone is different as to why they buy what they buy. I've known people that will spend thousands just because of the exact look of the watch without a care in the world as far as what is inside. Just as I know people that refuse to spend more than $100 on a watch and think the idea of spending 20x the money for a less accurate watch is ludicrous. It may not be the route I agree with, but I suppose spending money can only truly be right or wrong to the person actually spending it! As usual, I always enjoy our short conversations. Cheers!

I find the debate of in house vs not in house movements interesting as both perspectives have some merit. I feel that if you view a watch as art there is a greater degree of superiority in most in house movements vs non in house but if you view a watch as just a nice tool the advantages of in house really diminish or disappear altogether and may even be a detriment at times. I have my own personal method for evaluating watches as I view them as art and practical tools simultaneously and it makes the hobby more fun 1. Design/aesthetics - the look and feel 2. Craftsmanship - the quality 3. Design efficiency - performing or functioning in the best possible manner with the least waste of time, effort, money, and resources. And this is is the fun part for me. Does hand finishing a beautiful in house movement increase the aesthetics of the watch? Only marginally as you cant even see it on your wrist but if you just want to look at the movement than yes but not much overall. Does if increase the craftsmanship, yes. Does it decrease the design efficiency? Usually, as the hours spent hand polishing a movement piece that is buried under other movement pieces is not a practical use of time and effort and will result in increasing the price tremendously. But using an undecorated ETA 2824 or Sallita movement diminishes the craftsmanship of the watch vs a well done superbly finished in house movement. So I look for the best balance. Using this method a put my $894 Stowa marine with roman numerals, with a perfectly proportioned case, beautiful dial, beautiful and elegant blued hands, and top grade and slightly decorated ETA 2824 right on the same level as my JLC Reverso. They are not equal in brand prestige and heritage or in craftsmanship so they are not equal watches, but taking all things into consideration they are roughly equal under my evaluation method. They have roughly equal scores for aesthetics and the JLC wins in craftsmanship while the Stowa wins in design efficiency. Long story short - if a watch has an ETA movement but everything else about the watch is executed to a very high level having an ETA movement doesn't exclude it from a potential purchase. Also, watches that may cost $50,000 aren't excluded but the craftsmanship and design/aesthetic grade have to be perfect in my eyes as it is going to have a very low design efficiency grade. This methodology is all about fun for me and is why a Patek 5170r and a Hamilton Khaki Field can sit in the same watch box.

I didn't realize why much of the movement "decoration" is still put into movements except for exhibition casebacks. So the tradition of putting cote de geneve, Geneva strips, and perelage were used to trap contamination, so Rolex and other companies still puts those into its movements to do just that - help trap contamination not necessarily aestetics.

Good stuff as always Bill. I really don't need another watch. But the temptation is very great. You have reviewed my small collection. I do love the Rolex group. The accuracy, quality and robustness is hard to beat. But maybe something is missing. Something in limited production numbers. Something with the personal touch. Could I be thinking of a Felix?

Nice vid as always. I suppose with watches I am much as I am with cars. I have had Mercedes V8's and Chevy V8's. It was more the overall look and feel of the overall machine that interested me than the engine itself. The Chevy V8 in a Corvette is like a Rolex movement ... rugged, dependable and reasonable to maintain. The Mercedes V8 in a 560SL a lot more refined but requires more attention and expense to maintain. The buying decision on both was not made on the engine type. It was how I felt when I drove the auto. That is the same way I feel about watches. I think Rolexes are boring, but I really like JLC and GO. But the engine inside any of those isn't the deciding factor for a purchase. I do, however, enjoy learning all I can about the movements of quality watches as well as the design motivations, same as learning about a Pagani sports car, though I would never buy one or a high horolgy watch either. Your shows are really getting good. Rea and I look forward to Fri and Sun. Thanks for sharing you time and thought with everyone. Cheers from Saigon.

Thanks Bill. Be safe.

Thank You! )

Good day. I want to watch a video devoted to felca watches by their watches since I own the felca space star watch, but I can not find any information on this model. thank you

Knowledgeable to the extreme, but impressive.

Very interesting, but I would not compare a ETA with an AGENHOR. Since a watch with an Agenhor caliber can cost over 40,000€

Bill, what do you think of the JLC Polaris Automatic? I was thinking of picking one up, but it seems to me this watch fails the test of the movement fitting the case. But maybe that's why this watch is at a lower price point than most JLC.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric hemispheres retrograde is the pf317 caliber actually an Agenhor movement?

I really like what you say about movements and watches. I think about the hype that was made around the new Marlin by Timex in 2017. It has a chinese womens movement hold by a plastic keeper wich nobody seemed to bother. Ok a cheap watch for beginners...but why such a hype for a watch with a movement like this. I did not inderstand.

Most very expensive square cases from before 1980 have tiny ovalized movements made for women's watches and that's something I always hated but I don't open these watches unless I'm forced to... What you can't see can't harm you? 😅😂

Hello friend. Where do i buy that habring watch ? I love it soooo much

доброго дня. бажаю переглянути відео посвячене годинникам компанії felca їх годинникакам оскільки володію годинником felca space star, але неможу знайти жодноі інформації по даній моделі. дякую

Do these ever come on bracelets? Straps don't feel like my money was spent well. The more engineering ThE better to me.

Very few companies are all in house. Personally it doesn't bother me. Sure, if I'm spending 10k for a watch in house is nice. But, not all companies should try for in house. Do what you're good at. If you specialize in case making, you shouldn't be making movements. Use a reputable movement manufacturer instead.

What are your views on Grand Seiko and their Spring Drive movement?

Rolex is in house now, make all the components of watch. So is Seiko. Is Seiko the same quality as Rolex? Quality is subjective. That Harry Winston you showed isn't in house, but they used some of the best movement and module companies to create the best watch they could, does that make them less quality than Rolex? I think people make too much of a big deal over in-house.

Is it just me that thinks Apple watch has completely ripped off the H. Moser & Cie SWISS ALP WATCH S?

your beautiful harbering would be the highest I would aspire to own ,hand made,in house,limited number,fair price.its a fantastic watch, now is a say hublot ten times the watch the harbering 7s no way is a patek ten times the craftsmanship no ,those are shameless in price.y8u can buy a used patek box on ebay over a thousand dollars I would rather save couple thousand tell them to put mine in brown paper bag.there is little difference to finishing of a patek and grand seiko 👍

you’re not good at putting the watch in front of the lens 😂, trick is put it directly in front of the lens even if it blocks your view, don’t worry you’ll be back once you move the watch away 😎

Too wordy.