@mr dugs its only white that can show or turn yellow the other colors are ok.. And it turns yellow faster when its closer to a wall lamp or bulb

Yep they keep pushing latex, but what I've seen is oil based is way tougher so you have to paint less. Also on metal I'd never use latex.

As above, oil based paints are much more hard wearing.A pain to apply but longevity is threefold. I've also found satin enamel white does not yellow, don't know why

The flattening out is all down to the drying time - you can get additives (e.g. Floetrol) for water based paints to increase the drying time for a smoother finish. 👍

Cheers David! 👍

Cheers bud!

Good luck - you'll never look back! Not quite as shiny but so much easier to work with. 👍

Once you get the hang of it it's great - very different to oil based! Work quick! 👍

A friend used to have a saying, "You don't know what you don't know." If we grew never having experienced cars, selecting the best horse would be our only consideration. If we grow up never having experienced oil, picking the best latex would be our only consideration. Waterborne Acrylics can get pretty hard and shiny, but their combination of sealing, hardness, and getting that new-house sprayed-on smoothness that those who use oil are accustomed to getting is simply not an expectation that latex users have, and unconsciously came to regard the typical latex orange-peel finish as desirable, even though they would find a car or anything else they would buy with such a finish as poor workmanship and cheap looking. I'm currently working on a house with plaster that was built in 1950 and previously lived in a house built with drywall in the 1970s. Two rooms had wallpaper. When I removed the wallpaper I was amazed at how smooth the walls were. The other areas have been subsequently painted with latex. After talking to old painters who today mostly work in latex, I will be sanding the walls and using oil-base paint. The quality and hardness and soundproofing of the the walls make the newer house I used to live in look cheap. The 1950's house has all oak hardwood floors except the kitchen and bathroom, which beats the plywood and carpet of the newer house. It's all brick, which I power washed and sealed with Masonry 5801 Clear Sealer and the house, chimney, walkways, and driveway that are like new, don't even get wet in the rain and ice. I learned that if the brick, wood trim, or oak cabinets had been painted, the appraised value for insurance would be quite a bit less. I was surprised when insurance appraised it a 5x what I paid for it, for which I can't contest since it has been confirmed by other houses that have recently sold in the area. At first I viewed the rounded, and sculpted corners of the wall to ceiling joints as old looking. I've come to realize that is true because it is expensive and people won't pay for that. High-end houses still use cement board, plaster, and real oak floors today, it's just that in the 1950s, everyone built their houses like that. I do not see that quality going into the new houses being built in the neighborhood even though there are things I like in them too. As you might guess, I'm remodeling it. After deciding against steel, I had a new roof of architectural shingles put on the house and garage. The kitchen had rust coming from under the rim of the sink, and the bathroom had a hairline crack in the sink that didn't leak, but had both countertops replaced with granite and the kitchen sink with granite, and bathroom with porcelain. I replaced 60 amp fused electrical with 150 amp, with 70 amp and natural gas to the garage for the furnace, welder, EV outlet, and 6 1/2 hp air compressor, and steel I-beam for hoist. I finished the inside of the garage with natural OSB with floor urethane. About all that is left is to replace the current galvanized plumbing with up-sized PEX-A and a circulation pump, but may try gravity first, and the stairs need new treads and risers.

You get it only where the paint is not exposed to daylight like inside the back of a larder door...............30 yrs UK decorating.

I can't get my head around the _look_ of gloss paint. It somehow looks so... 1970s cheap and uninspiring. 😳 A dead flat eggshell or similar just looks so much classier. Am a fan of the F&B paints - the *Modern Eggshell* is ballsy enough that it used to be called floor paint. Prep it right, and it lasts brilliantly - also the pigment quality compared to other brands is superb - there is so much depth that you just don't get with other brands.

@@221b-Maker-Street F&B is sh*te from a quality perspective. It is how paint was made in Victorian times. I have never heard of eggshell being classed as a floor paint nor do I believe it would last long being walked on. The primary purpose of professional painting is to protect whatever you are painting. What is popular aesthetically changes and goes round in cycles.

No worries JB! 🛠👍

My (now-deceased) house-proud and cleaning obsessed Auntie, used to wash her white gloss woodwork down with bleach every week. Unsurprisingly - to her dismay - it turned yellow fairly quickly. 😳

Cheers Jim! I need to do a proper scratch test at some point! I'll add that one to the list... 😃👍

Dulux Trade water based Satinwood (custom mix) - lovely paint, satin finish. 👍

Thanks for watching! Would be interesting to know if any pro decorators out there know of shinier water based gloss paint? 👍

👍🛠

Dulux satin wood water based has come on a lot - impressed with that. 👍🛠

@Strve Sit Sounds interesting I'll give it a try

That's my patent dust collector! i.e. the bottom of a milk carton. :-)

I'm about to do the same. Did you use water based paint on the banister and are you happy with it? I'm afraid it won't be as good as oil based as I never used it before. Thanks

@@teachers80 found it went on OK and very white, but needed more coats than oil, as it looked patchy even after 2 coats. Unless it was just my technique.

it's the best water based satin out of crown and dulux

Completely agree from another painter in London

Have you tried Floetrol? I normally use it with something like this brush-wise: www.screwfix.com/p/wooster-silver-tip-synthetic-bristle-paint-brush-2/8483g

@@GosforthHandyman I've got a wooster brush, but I bought some cheapy synthetics from johnstones to use :)

add black to your white gloss measure with tea spoon stop it from yellowing water based gloss is a waste of time. dulux trade undercoat and high gloss is best.

Hamilton don't make brushes called platinum. I should know, the wife works for them.

@@MrJimtimslim autocorrect fail, should be Harris.

Hi - no, have only tried the Dulux & Leyland water based gloss.

i have by now, it's a nice product. you should try it sometime. greetings from belgium.

Did you see the comments from Andy on James William's post above?

NO not at all just sand down as normal and slap on the water based undercoat, then when dry finsih with oil based gloss, did it this way INDOORS for years, never a problem

It's OK - similar to painting wood tbh. The biggest thing I miss is with oil based you can put the radiator on when the paint is tacky and the heat will remove all brush marks. This doesn't really work with water based. Don't even attempt to paint a warm radiator as the paint will dry far too quick. :-)

To mask the smell of oil-based paint in your home, lay some chopped onions around where you've painted to mask / neutralise the smell.

Water based undercoat is a dream. Wb gloss is barely glossy, it's dreadful

BY Far the best finish will be achievd with oil based undercoat and oil based gloss, I can get it like glass, water based does not dry flat enough and you will have to fine sand it before glossing to get the best finish, Dulux oil based undercoat was changed formula about 10 years ago, now its rubbish its almost like a gloss paint and the gloss top coat will not pull off easily like it used to on the old matt type undercaot they used to sell. Water based undercoat with an oil top coat is ok...............30 yrs decorating in the UK

@Days Kay Some people still use them though for certain rooms though. Gloss paint on wood is a still a danger because if a house fire breaks out, it too will burn easily and rapidly with black smoke (gloss paint is oil-based).

It's VERY different to oil based so takes a bit getting used to but I use nothing else now (for white). Still prefer oil-based for colours on exterior doors etc. I think Johnstones and Leyland are part of the same group! (PPG - massive American conglomerate).

Johnstones took over Leyland some decades ago. Both companies were taken over by Sigma Kalon in the mid 90's, Then by a hedge fund company, Then by PPG in around 2008/9ish.

As long as the gloss isn't flaking off, give it a light sand, a good water based primer and then the water based gloss should be fine over that. 👍

@@GosforthHandyman What to do if it is flaking off?

@@GosforthHandyman Great video and great information, thank you! I'm working through our entire house covering oil based with water based gloss (because of yellowing) using the method you describe.

For water based? Seen that for oil paints but not water based. 👍

yep oil based

Interesting - Dulux Satinwood waterbased is great! 👍

Try one of the very latest specialty semi-gloss trim paints that is supposed to go on smooth and dry to a hard smooth finish. Just try it on one door and wait ten years to see if it holds up. I used what was on the market ten years ago to do mine, and the water based semi-gloss paint that I used ten years ago now sticks together (door to frame) in places, is not smooth and not hard enough to keep dirt from getting ground down into it. Yellowed oil paint would look much better than the white with gooey dirty places here and there that I have now. The 40 year old green oil paint job on my kitchen cabinets is still hard, durable and easy to wipe clean (though it is chipped in places, it looks way better than the ten year old water based semi-gloss paint job on my doors)

no ,although be careful of using knotting it wont stick to that at all and knots bleed thru water based easily also

@@pmrose18 yup, I've been advised to use stain block on knots before priming and finishing but tbh I have been quite lucky and never had a problem with any knots bleeding through. I think that's due to how far paint technology has come and using good quality paints.

leyland oil satinwood yellow very quickly dulux trade satinwood is best as far i know for staying white

I would try a different brand - the Leyland goes on nice and has a softer gloss finish. 👍

Defo going to check it out when I get a second! 👍

Haven't found that with the paints I've used so far but will be doing some more testing in due course. 👍

Yup - I concur on synthetic brush. 👍

Johnstone's make the Leyland paint as a cheaper alternative to their Aqua ..

Sand and prime first - should be fine but I'd test it on a small area.

Even if we’ll rubbed down applying a water-based paint over an oil-based paint can lead to a finish that easily chips if knocked. The solution is to first apply a high-adhesion primer such as Zinsser BIN or Zinsser Coverstain, which also acts as an undercoat.

Jack - by 'trip' do you mean 'drip'?