Thank you.

Pure bristle can be just as good as synthetic or even better in some cases with emulsion, don't talk bollocks .

@@steveprice8309 I doubt you were ever at school ,let alone know how to paint ,dick head 😉

@@simonright1507 even the Dulux trainer videos suggest using quality synthetic bristles for acrylic satin. Pure bristle is best for gloss.

@@simonright1507 it's personal taste, pure bristle is better for oil based but you can use synthetic for oil as they are far better now than whst they used to be, I use synthetic and I've been a p and d for 37 years and I find them convenient as you can use them straight away without having to braik them in the other reason I use them is that a lot of the time it's water based paint I'm using not allways by choice I mite add .

Thank you.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Zoom in 😂

Thanks... and it's good paint have noticed where I get my paint from the other painters seem to use it than the Dulux.

The wiping with meths is a very good idea esp with doors as it removes all the grease from years of hands which can cause a paint defect called cissing. I haven't always done it and sometimes I have wasted time and money as a result.

A lot like you say you have to get rid of the shine completely.

why when i paint with black satin does it always leave i think the word is flashing. gone through two tins on my bathroom door now?

Use this satin he was using. It is internal, so the same application.

Your welcome thanks

Of course, but sand it lightly to aid adhesion and then solvent or meth spirits to clean it off.

Yes good stuff.

Yes sugar soap is good for cleaning down paintwork. And yes light sand before second coat de-nib... thanks

@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks.

Yaaasss use roller on main and side panels

Only water based will not yellow. Try Johnstone's Aqua guard. Very hard wearing.

crown trade oil satin and Albany oil satin don't seem to yellow had them both in the garage without uv light for around 6 years and still white on the side of the tins all the others dulux jono's have gone yellow Albany oil gloss and crown trade next gen oil gloss hold the white for a long time too for todays oil glosses

Thank you.... it's about not putting to much paint on and wiping back if necessary.

Yes, best to allow the oil to dry 24hrs. And you can sand oil based gloss that is old and apply water based. Thanks

Ben, this is satin not water-based gloss. He is much more experienced painter than most of us and I think he knows his paints by now.

Adrian Sandry I never said it was a gloss finish mate. Not sure we’re you are getting that from?

More control and faster painting using pure bristle... synthetic... it's in the name... keep it real. only reason they push synthetic brushes is because they are cheap to make... if you have not used pure bristle enough you wont understand.

I was pure bristle then went synthetic. Spent a lot of money only to find myself back to bristle. Whatever you feel happy with and works for you. No problems.

100% mate. No way would you use pure for water based

just sand it by hand, no need to go all-in with the sanding no need for machines

It doesn’t yellow at anywhere near the same rate as oil but it still does loose some of its whiteness. To be honest I think all paints discolour slightly. Even ceilings can discolour over time. I use oil for the finish it gives and use water based and waterborne paints if it’s a particularly dark room or the customer doesn’t like the smell or if the customer is happy for me to spend a lot of time changing their woodwork from oil to waterbased. But on most jobs I find dulux oil based gloss in white will stay white for a perfectly acceptable length of time especially over waterbased undercoat. Crown trade satin finish is also white and stays white for a good long time and its oil based. I have been back to jobs three and four years and it still looks white. I tend not to use brilliant white though I only use white so maybe this has something to do with it not going yellow as much. It’s a minefield but if I’m on a big hall stairs and landing that has been painted in oil before the last thing I want to do is charge the customer for me to paint 10 doors and frames and spindles all with three coats of waterbased paint when the advantages aren’t all that great considering it gets dirtier easier and doesn’t stay as white as u think. I’m happy with oil nice finish needs done in five years and wears well lol

@@stuartmcintosh7187 Thanks for your detailed reply. I'll probably persevere with the Zinsser Perma-White satin for the time being but I may go back to Dulux oil-based in the future.

Mark Rowland I have used the Zinsser perma white satin in my living room about three years ago and it is still nice and white too so it’s a good one. I like how it adheres to old oil based paints without having to use a primer!

@@stuartmcintosh7187 Yes, I've used it a few times now. Bit tricky to apply compared to oil-based but imo the advantages out-weigh disadvantages.

A customer as just asked me to start using oil gloss again for them... as they think it looks better.

Some paints you do have to use synthetic brushes.. they dry too fast and are no good with pure bristles.. thanks

All depends on how much you have to do and other factors. We always like to lay the paint off with a brush for a smooth finish. So a brush is always needed roller optional..

@@PaintingandDecorating thanks for that answer. Think it will be a while before my brush skills get to that level 😀👍🏻

No Problem thanks..

Because its water based and is harder to lay off. Thanks

Thank you from both of us.

if it's oil based gloss, give it a good run down. Oil based satin/ or eggshell is self undercoating, so just two coats will be fine. If its an oil finish thats on and you want to move over to water based, I like to use a water based grip primer forst, then you can start going over with waterbased products without the fear of it peeling/coming away from the previous oil surface. There's a number of good base/grip undercaots on the market now. Remember, a lot of water based pain systems are one Uc, followed by two coats of the finish coat.

The colour is a Valspar colour called epic adventure.. and yes you can paint over wallpaper... thanks.. if you use the blue better to put it on a contract matt gray if you can..

@@PaintingandDecorating sorry but im not what you mean..why would i need to use a grey if you dont mind explaining.i was thinking i would maybe need to use primer as the wallpaper is black and has white flowers.its getting on my nerves now but i want to do it right hence im asking a pro

@@scorpionnetherrealm8937 Blue is a difficult colour to use maybe because lack of pigment... 4 coats that was going on white granted... but 4 coats... but a grey back ground it may go in two coats... may work on your black first paint the white flowers out dark,.

@@PaintingandDecorating much appreciated for the useful input thank you.keep the videos coming its a breath of fresh air

@@PaintingandDecorating i appreciate the advice.if i want to paint over the wallaper,,is there a way to hide seems/joints in any way? Ive seen in a brochure that bin has a wallpaper paint and ive seen you use that brand any further advice? I want to make the walls look smooth

Yes as long as no bare metal.

@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks for reply

Drips or runs... Drips scrub out.. runs more difficult check your workover.. not too bad with oil gloss to scrub them out.. water based gloss no chance it will flash but you have to because you can not leave runs. water based satin you can scrub them out..

No, but rollers can cause bubbles funny you could not lay them off.

@@PaintingandDecorating I laid it off with the roller. Lol. I thought this was the same thing when the roller isn't loaded with paint. Like someone on the comments has said I went and ordered a Purdy Syntox brush to lay off with. Thanks for the quick reply 👍. Am I right in saying that laying off with the roller was a mistake? Although on the 2nd coat I done a little test and let the paint go off for 10 minutes and ran the roller over it and that seemed to remove the bubbles. These were not that important so I used them as a test but when I come to the floating shelves I want to get it right.

@@SteS Best to lay off with a brush really, but if leaving it then rolling over again works, then this maybe better on flar surfaces less brush marks. Thanks

@@PaintingandDecorating I messed up the pieces that didn't matter so much.. Hopefully that works on the first coat on the more important ones. Yes . All flat surfaces. Doors, shelving and frames. Going to prime and paint the skirting before installing. And touch up afterwards. So brush work for those areas. Thanks for all your videos. They're a great resource. Must of watched days worth of your content.

It's down to the person but satin sits better sometimes than gloss... takes longer to yellow if at all... water based is good better than gloss water based.

Painting and Decorating thanks, mate (American trying to sound Aussie even though I know you are British).

Sorry for late reply. Yes Dulux is far superior and the price reflects this... Armstead good paint ready to use as Dulux is more thick and allows for thinning.

Painting and Decorating . Yeah I think I am finally settled on the brands I am happy to use, suggest to clients. Brands that don’t give me grief, leave a good long lasting finish. Akzo Nobel and Tikkurilla. That’s it. I ve always prided myself on being up to speed with latest products etc but I am getting a bit fed up with “ trying “ more products. Happy to recommend Armstead. Especially on commercial and rental properties. I did three sample boars with three WB products. Found them the other day. Armstead was still white, rest had yellowed. 2016 I did them. If you get a chance think you’d like to use the Helmi and Intact from Tikkurila. Plus Teknos Aqua Futura is great. Cheers

@@stevenmcfarlane8831 yes agreed nice to leave the best finish and hardwaring. Like you say why change what does not cause you problems. Thanks.

We generally only use pure bristle they work great... use them in emulsion all the time.

@@PaintingandDecorating I'm a big fan of them too, use them whenever I can. Just always been advised to use synthetics in WB wood paint. But I'll take your word for it judging by the videos you put up on here.

Great video and Hamilton pure bristle brushes I find also great for this application. Used the armstead quick dry satin in my own living room a few years back..... still looks lovely and white.... just one drawback I find... it might just be me... but when I wipe off dirty hand prints from the door with a clean cloth. The paint feels a little sticky afterwards for a few days at least. Then returns to normal? Weird I know. Doors were keyed and prepped very well beforehand. And also the sun on the window cill tends to make the pint feel tacky also. Weird.

Yes water based are not hard wearing...

Throw some vanilla extract in oil paint, helps with the smell.

Keep breathing in them paint vapours brother. I wont work with oil based paint unless the costomer is giving me £250 a day

It's okay but any hard wearing places no good... better using oil satinwood.. thanks

@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks. I'm trying to avoid the solvent smells but that paint is looking like the best choice.

@@ORGPPL1 it is good.. Leyland do some good water based paints.. I like the water based gloss.. thanks.

@@PaintingandDecorating OK thanks. I used Leyland primer and it performed nicely apart from the odd smell.

Yes I thought that then I realized no painter and decorator can have OCD...... you would never finish a job.

Painting and Decorating yes there is a limit haha

Yes covered well thanks.

I guessing its a texture thing.

Unless its a completely flush door and you have a dozen or more to paint it's just as quick to use a brush that's probably why he uses just a brush

It depends on various factors including the kind of paint and the ambient temperature. I tend to roll doors with a 4" roller either foam or microfibre, and lay off with a brush. A panelled door takes 10 mins per side with this method. In hot weather you have to apply water-based top coats that much more quickly and the faster roller on & lay off with a brush really works best for me. That said, this week I've been painting with Johnstone's Aqua water based gloss and preferred using a thick-bristled 2" Hamilton as I didn't find the roller speeding things up much. Happy experimenting!

I thought the same 🧐 I'd use a roller & brush

I use a brush to get it on then roller, I love the orange peel look, personal preference eh.

No shame my good man.

@@PaintingandDecorating haha

Or DIYS look and think no will let the professional do that so I get have a great finish.. hopefully.

Lol. what large area and secondly natural bristle are the best brush for all paints... granted some water based clear varnish better using synthetic because black seems to come out of pure bristle ... you think synthetic have been about for ever lol. dampen the area will just make your brush skid about and soften any water based undercoat you have put on.. bad idea.

Totally agree London forever,for a start Armstead is bottom range also synthetics for water based,especially as Hamilton bristle brushes are like a badgers ass years ago they were king especially the 900s they were everybody’s top end brush,no more now anyone who does top end work uses Purdy or similar,I’ve been decorating nearly 40 years .On doors like those you cut around panels then roll with a fine mohair roller then lay it off with a long hair Purdy syntox Ask any professional kitchen cabinet painter

Christopher Butts .....do you paint coal cellars by any chance ?

Johnny old school you name it son we’ve painted it

Hi mike,I would recommend tikkurila helmi 30[satin finnish] or sickens satura water based,DULUX satinwood,although with the DULUX the white is a bugger to cover for some reason,but the coloured satinwood is fine and don’t forget synthetic brushes for applying