I’m convinced you’re the unsung hero of cycling. In many hobbies and disciplines in my life, I have always found a handful of people like you hidden away, after extensive searching. Thanks for putting in the effort, innovating your own approaches l, and being so detailed. I hope your channel continues to grow!

This guy's chain lube protocol just keeps getting better and better! Based on earlier videos, I started waxing 3 years ago, using SpeedWax. A year ago I changed over to Oz Cycle's formula. We now have data (okay, just a sample size of one, but its pretty compelling) which backs up using the Oz Cycle formula instead of Molten Speed Wax. The new tips on using the Connex links and the daily cleaning tips are welcome additions to the protocol. The initial cleaning does take some time - a few hours - but I always clean/wax two chains, which effectively cuts the time in half. In addition to big extended life benefits to chains and cassettes, overall I spend a lot less time cleaning drive chains and my bike, which means I have more time for RIDING and other important things in my life. Getting the "waxing" protocol right is the biggest improvement to our cycling equipment since indexed shifting and modern clincher rims/tires. I don't say that lightly - I've been a rabid cyclist now for 50 years. A big THANKS to Oz for sharing this information!

After 50 years of cycling I thought I knew a bit about bikes but I learn something useful and interesting in every one of your videos. And thanks to your earlier videos, I'm a chain wax convert!

I’ve been cleaning and waxing the chains on all of the bikes in our household using the wax/teflon formula that you’ve specified. It’s astonishing how much cleaner, smoother, and quieter our bikes are now! Thanks for all of the helpful content! Cheers!

Dear Steven, thank you a million times for all the great tutorials and sharing your knowledge. I converted to the church of waXx two days ago. Praise the wax! Oil is sin! I truly had no imagination how great this would work, it is amazing. After a few minutes of riding there was a big smile on my face: Shifting..silence...did it really change gear? Yes. Wow. After a short 30km-ride in the cold, i thought i would not be able to tell much of a difference. Wrong. It felt smoother and faster. It certainly was faster - not much but so much that I noticed the improvement. Roads in the city here are quite dirty at this time of the year - so later running my finger over the chain: NOTHING - except for tiny waxy flakes. No dirt, so clean... And my old 10s campy behaves suddenly like Forest when throwing away the leg braces. Why did I never try this and make the effort before? Cleaning my chain and cassette after every ride takes so much more time. Bike shops here advertise the usual super expensive lubes - sticking full with dirt after just a few kilometers. They sold me every kind of stuff over the years. It was all crap. All for the $$$. Nothing really made a big difference. Cassettes and chains wore out like there is no tomorrow. I guess it makes you a very good and frequent customer at those stores. A infrared thermometer was very helpful doing this just on the regular stove (lowest setting, keeping an eye on it). I did a second run in the way, after the first one (30 minutes) was not making me quite happy. I had to go down to about 50°C to get the biggest possibly amount remaining on the chain. Just wiped bigger bits off & then rolled a chain ring over the chain (like using a pizza-cutter). So this wold dent-in the wax between the chain a little, making it easier to fit it back onto my bike. On my first attempt, figured it would hardly fit on the tooth of my front rings. Big thanks from Germany

I have been waxing my bike chains (three) per your instructions for 6 months now. This is a game changer. This is the future of cycling. I also wash my bikes per your instructions and my bikes are the cleanest that they've ever been. I am doing this using less work, effort, less chemicals, water, rags. This is so much more easier than lubing with oil or squirt lube for that matter. At any moment I can perform any maintenance I want to the drive train and not have to put on latex gloves.

Using your instructions, I waxed nine chains in one go. My wife didn't want me to use the ceramic bowl in her slow cooker so I called the manufacturer to order an extra ceramic pot. They were so intrigued by the reason I gave for wanting an additional ceramic bowl that they sent me a complete slow cooker free of charge!

Thanks for this very clearly organized and delivered guide to waxing your bicycle chain. I’ve converted all three bikes with excellent results! I live in New Orleans and it’s been raining a lot. Dirty puddles, debris and windy blasts of rain have yet to spoil the clean wax lubricant effect. I love rubbing my fingers along the chain to find them clean as ever!

Fantastic. The story has come full circle. Just rewaxed my my chain today, as a matter of fact. I have made one modification for winter. I include a petrol clean. 2 to 3 consecutive ones with minimal volume followed by 2 propanol ones (all done in less than 5 mins). I keep the dirty petrol to dispose off appropriately later. 1 liter of petrol will last an entire winter if not more: it's the reps that really clean your chain, not the volume. As far as rust due to wintery dirty Belgium: I added a tiny amount of paraffin oil, like you suggested, but I also make the effort to rinse and dry my chain real quick (I commute with my road bike). The petrol washes are also good for cleaning rusting sites. Thanks again, another convert. I will spread the word ;-) (and links to your channel, of course)

I've been waxing chains on all family bikes, even children's' ones for one year now and thanks to your videos and greet, great job. I was part of the ones who commented your last vids on the subject and I am pleased helping friend on this topic. I was my chains every 250-300 km, once a month on my commuting bike and even on my fixie. I have used a small can of wax mixed with isopropilic alcohol during this summer and even if it doesn't mix as commercial products do (do not hesitate to let it in the sun and shake very often), it was a very good solution for holidays. Slow cooker is a better solution than rice cooker because of more accurate temperature control. Other advice : do not abuse of ultrasonic cleaner. The more you use it, the more dirty is water but not because of dirt dripping out of the chain, it is just the "metallic treatment" of the chain that goes away. At the end, I had a mat grey chain, more sensible to oxidation. Anyway, as I dislike dirt and grease, wax is the key for a clean and silent chain transmission and it is pleasant to do on some Sunday afternoons. A very big thank to OZ Cycle. Thierry, France

Working great for my bikes here in NYC -- used to have brutally greasy nasty chain with street dirt, and now with both bike's chains waxed up, much cleaner! Nicer to work on too, and after the initial chain cleaning, super easy upkeep. Thanks again!

I used to commute to work on a daily level, cleaning the drivetrain every week with about 200-300km done, took me ages and tons of babywipes and soap to clean my hands. Then Corona came, Not the beer, and since then no more commutes and overall I found your vids, became hooked, bought your stuff on ebay and what to say: I saw you too late (still I saw you), where were you when I abused my bike in every weather on a daily base? But then again, goes soooo smooth with proper waxing and cleaning is just 'clean'. Thanks for the good stuff.

Thank you Mr. Oz. - I am waxing my chain already for half a year and I like it. Happy cycling!

Making the world a better place one chain at a time! Thanks for the useful videos.

Thank you very much for the tutorial! I've been waxing my chains a couple of months now with your recipe and I'll never look back. Only issues I have ist that my front derailleur overthrows sometimes and I do include a petrol wash each time as the boiling water bath leaves a lot of grime inside the chain. Those smaller inconveniences pale to the benefits gained. With the DIY wax recipe, decanting solvents, decreased wear this method does indeed save a lot of money and over the long run also time, as waxing a set of chains is a lot faster than oiling and cleaning the whole drivetrain. I do have a 2nd bike with an oiled chain for rainy days tho. Thanks again mate and keep it up!

Thank you so very much for this video. I'm just stripping out the factory oils from a new chain so, have been rewatching your videos to make sure I do it right. I used your method all last year and it was completely successful. No more oily fingers, hands, legs, chainrings etc etc! I can't thank you enough. James

I've watched every wax video of yours for numerous times & can't stop thinking about it. Thanks a ton. 💖 🇮🇳

my chains usually last 2500 miles. I started waxing with a new chain in August and show no ware at 3000 miles. My drive chain is the envy of the group and trying to get more riders on to it. I have shared the site with my club CCB.

Sram Red Etap Axs XPLR became dead quiet when waxed with rex black diamond wax using this method, thank you so much Oz!

Waxing my first chain right now. Perfect timing as I’m rebuilding an old hybrid that I have set up for bike packing. I will be waxing my new baby too (due date June 1) before hitting the road. So glad I learned about this tremendous alternative to nasty lubes. Thanks for the clear and easy steps with explanation.

I was about to do this waxing, but I saw some videos of some of Priority Bicycles bikes and wound up buying a Turi. It uses a Gates Belt drive and an Enviolo CVT rear hub, and brother, *_I don't miss doing all that maintenance!_* I've put 1000 miles on it and only rinse it off every 4th or 5th ride. I tightened the spokes after about 500 miles and one broke a couple hundred miles later and that's the only thing I've had to do except air up the tires once a week. Not trying to rain on your idea, matter-of-fact I think you ought to patent it, it's genius. I'm just offering a bit of my experience about the belt drive. I can ask a friend to let me throw it in his SUV and he has no worries about a greasy chain. I can catch a pant leg in the belt and it doesn't shred my pants. And best of all, the Enviolo is _always_ on the right ratio. No tuning, no waxing, no cleaning needed. Ever see a guy with an old 1950's Jaguar he loves?. He's always popping the bonnet and tuning the carburetor or adjusting the valves or checking the points. It's an experience he won't do without because all that bother is part of why he loves it so. I suppose you see where I'm going with that comment. Say no more, eh? Goodonya mate, and happy trails to you.

If you add PTFE to the wax mix I would *strongly* advise against using any appliance (slow cooker, rice cooker, instant pot, etc) used for waxing a chain for cooking food as well, even if you have a separate dedicated pot or liner for waxing. PTFE is an extremely durable molecule, and pretty much never breaks down, so bio-accumulation can be a problem - and the health consequences are not yet well understood. A respirator would also be a good idea, especially when working with the powdered PTFE.

Fellow follower here! Bonus information Water is not the reason for the PTFE clumping. This happens when the powder is sheared and is very specific to PTFE. For your purpose sheared pTFE is not good for the job. I would return as being a defect product. Source: I work for the largest PTFE manufacturer in the world ... on that occasion: great channel and love your personality

Thank you so much for your instructional videos mate. I'm the one that complained about getting a solid block of PTFE rather than powder in the post but I have since gotten a replacement from the vendor and this time it was working like a charm. The only thing I noticed is that when I do the MTB method of not wiping the chain after the bath, gravity will always pull a thick drop of wax to the end of each link which will break off completely once you have installed the chain and pedaled a bit. Now when it's broken off, as far as I can tell that bit of the chain is naked with no wax at all, so I figured still giving it a slight wipe so that there is no drop/buildup is the best way to cover the outer links thickly for shredding through dirt. If you can it would probably also work to not let it dry vertically, but with your wire method that's not really possible, I tried :)

came here as I wasn’t sure if it was an euphemism for something else lol. Seriously though have done both bike chains specialised cross trail and my boardman carbon frame and the only problem I experienced was reattaching the quick link which was a bit of a bugger. Very grateful to your videos and much appreciation from Wales 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 I couldn’t get powdered PTFE at first so used liquid bought from my local hardware which seemed to work alright but since have got a hold of the powder and added to the mix for the boardman and it works a treat 👍🏻

Thank you for your great videos about chain waxing. After been watching you videos for years. I finally decided to try waxing chain my bicycle chain too. And it really works. I just used candle wax no additional components. First I bought a new wiperman chain with connex link. I rode 200km with original lube, then cleaned it with casoline, several times. Then denatured alcohol like 3 times I think. First time waxing I rode about 80 km. Then cleaned with casoline and alcohol again. And then I rode 200km I think.. after that I tried to clean chain with hot water, but that wasn't very good, because it did not get it clean well. I thought the wax will melt in water and dirty wax will submerge to the top of water, but I guess the wax was still sticky enough and there was too little of it to get replaced by heavier water. So instead already dirty wax get heated and stick more strongly on chain.. But it's not a big deal. Anyways after that I have just washed chain with luce warm water, then leaved to dry and then washed with denatured alcohol. It's not too much trouble in container and after I filter the already used alcohol through of paper filter I can reuse it maybe infinitely.. The black alcohol gets clean again and even if there is some paraffin or maybe oil from candle wax left in that spirit.. it's the good for chain, as far when it's still able to clean it. Anyways I have rode over 1000km with waxed chain by now. And I really like. It's not trouble at all to wax it. Now there have been some little rainy days too and the wax performed well, the chain did not feel gritty after this ride. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pZOFaZOWy8izmZc.html Last autumn when I rode such road the chain sounded really gritty when moving/bending it sideways. I have mudguards on my bike so there's a lot of grit falling to chain from mudguard.. Last year I could ride only 1800km with a shimanu ultegra chain, then the rollers were all worn because grit.. Chain was not worn lengthwise though. After ~2800 km I needed new chain although lengthwise it was still okay, but parktool fell in by 0,75 % wear side. And shifting got too bad. It just happened because the grit from mudguards and oil. With candle wax.. I guess the grit really just falls off and not working inside chain, under rollers so much.

Best chain advice yet, thanks for sharing it.

Thanks for adding the section regarding connecting connex link, very useful. Might also be worth mentioning that Shimano chains are directional so need to ensure marking on chain are facing you

Awesome instructional session. Thank you for your hard work.

What I like about waxing a chain is the simplicity of it and the lack of maintenance, why some people have to over-complicate it, I have no idea?!

hi Steven, after starting using this lubricant in my chains, I'm astonished because my chain in 2 months 1,700km already was in the end of life, so I started use wax and I already ride 4 months with 6,370km and the chain is good yet. it's fantastic, not dusty, no chemical products to clean my chain, durable, 300km each application thank you so much your videos, explanations and dedication to teach people around the world to care his loved bikes 😍😃👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I started waxing my chain, my chain is now so clean, no oil. Thanks for the useful information.

Suggestion : Make a playlist & add all the wax & cleaning videos in it.

Being a .75 must replace Mech trained guy I would say you have 3 more winters of chain life. Rule of thumb for me is at .5 you should start thinking chain replacement. A useful rule of thumb here in the US, but always listen to others experience. And appreciate your ongoing series!

You save bikers all over the world so much money. Thanks mate :)

Thank you so much for all the waxing and removable link information... I was having 'jumping problems' on my bike and I put it in "Park" bicycle shop, on Bardstown Rd in Louisville Ky and they not only blamed my Connex removable link (that was 4 weeks old) because it was "loose" but they dry lubed my chain saying that "waxing attracts dirt". FFS!!!! They did tighten up things and made a couple of things look tidier but the guy that was in charge flat out got up in my face about your advice... I had to re-clean my waxed chain and wax it again... The guy was so convincing that I have watched multiple videos about waxing to ensure you were right. Thank you for your videos on how to buy the right Teflon and mix it with paraffin

been waxing for a couple years now. 11speed campy record chain at 13000km and a 10 speed KMC chain with 17000km. Both under .25 wear. I do however wax after every ride over 100km. On long rides over 200km the chain does start to get louder. But I haven't had to replace any drivetrain components yet.

incredible, I have done 7000km this summer with no chain wear whatsoever, I feel i'm never going to change a cassette again

Thanks for this. Been using the original wax formula since I first saw your video August 2017. I just purchased a new chain and will be using your latest formula on it. I haven't gotten anymore leg tattoos since. It's been a pleasure to work on my bikes without having all that nasty grease to clean from my hands and tools.

My personal standpoint on rusty chains, as long as only the outer plates are rusted the chain is good to go. The outer plates, especially the outside, does not move or move against anything, e. g. the chainrings. This rust on outer plates is just cosmetic. As long as you ride your bike regularly, the gears and the chain grinding against each other will remove rust from the surface. Many manufactures produce chains where only the outer links are nickel coated. This is a simple method to increase resistance against oxidization but keep the costs down. However, you rarely see this on performance orientated chains.

On the very last point about taking the chain out of the wax, previously you have said to let the wax cool until a surface skin just forms, so that the wax doesn't drip out from the inside of the chain when you lift it out? That is what I have been doing. Which is the correct advice..? Cheers.

For Connex link usage I just remember ‘Frown Down.’ 🙃

I have done 600 miles on my first waxed chain on my road bike , 300 miles on my mountain bike. I am converting every bike in the household to your waxing formula it is working very well. I do 200 miles until the chain becomes noisy which is great. Thanks a lot. I have a couple of comments/questions though. 1. I used bike specific citrus based degreaser and pure citrus turpentine both work well. Since I live in an apartment it is hard to use any of the cheap chemicals you have used in the video. These degreasers/turpentines I use are non-toxic but they are very expensive for the container method. 3 chains were used one chain was brand new and I have to say completely cleaning used chains is a pain in the neck(they may look clean, you let them sit in turpentine and it completely turns black again). I have to use diluted degreaser many times until black residue is almost gone, then mild dish soap to get the degreasers out and finally %99 ipa. I was hoping to make this process easier by using an ultrasonic cleaner but you are not a fan of it. I don't think I understand your reasoning since in the container method you are still just loosening up the dirt. If you wash the chain with mild soap, rinse and use ipa wouldn't the ultrasonic cleaner work well ? 2. On one of my chains, there is black wax flakes on one side. Boiling water doesn't really get rid of it I have to scrub. Do you know a way to get rid of these black wax residue on the outside ? Again great job, your formula changed the way I cycle, I really don't wanna go back to regular lubes ever again.

Started using wax on my chain on an old bike after watching one of your videos years ago. Switched to a brand new bike in 2018 or so, and was doing 80 miles a week in all weathers and salty british roads up until lockdown. It is on its original chain and is less than 0.5 wear! The added benefit is that the entire bike remains clean and washes easily. Also, because you no longer need to aggressively clean the bike, the other parts such as deraileurs never wear out either, the bike is like new. I was waxing once every 2 weeks and using a 50/50 mix of plain candle wax and paraffin oil. Biggest thing is ensuring all excess wax is removed before fitting.

I'm using connex link 10v with Campagnolo chain with optimal results

Thanks for another great video. This might seem like a bizarre question, but how long does a batch of your chain wax mixture last before you have to discard and make more from scratch? Does the paraffin wax-PTFE mixture last indefinitely as long as no dirt gets into it?

Great info. Using you instruction, I've been running my bike now for about 2+ months. Works great. Thanks for all the research :)

Hi, I would like just to share my personal experience. I was thinking to stop with this chain wax. The chain was loud, was lasting less than 150 km and changing gear was not so smooth. I was using 100% paraffin wax for candle. I solved changing the type of wax, now I use food grade paraffin wax. Now yes, everything is working nice as it was expected. It is imperative to use that kind of wax due to the low quantity of oil residue in it. This wax sticks very well on the chain (shimano ultegra). cheers and good ride

OC I found Squirt to be as good but far less time invested. What did you find?

New chain. Clean outside with mineral oil. Ride till it grinds. Replace.

after one year following your tips I developed my own routine, here is my feedback: - I clean my chain by warming it up with a heat gun, and then wipe the old wax off, then drop it in the cooker. Superfast and no water involved, which makes things easier and is also a bit more ecologic than dissolving PTFE in hot water. - I tested my chain on a long, multiple day trip with dry weather, and after 550km it was still fine, no creaking of sort. With rain instead it needs more frequent re-waxing. - The Connex link is great, but I fear the strange shape of it doesn´t really match the CNC machining on the cassette, hence affecting shifting when it rolls on the jockey on the "external" side of the chain. I might try one from KMC in the future. Thanks a lot for your amazing work!!

I use your first metod on my fixie chain (izumi black jet) lovely smooth thanks for all this learnig form Colombia

Hello from Bucharest România 🇧🇪

So Molten Speedwax doesnt match its marketing claims?

I've been waxing my chain for 3 4 months and i enjoy it a lot. I do usually 100km per week sometimes 200km but rewaxing is not so difficult to do vs the amount of time and effort for cleaning lub chain. My wax and teflon changed color and not clear after sometimes. But it works really well. Thanks a lot, from vietnam.

Very solid and useful follow up to the previous videos on waxing, OZ! Those new to waxing will be happy to hear all these answers and advice packed into one video!

Hello OZ, I did one modification to your initial process of waxing the chain. After taking the chain out of the wax I let the wax drip and slightly wipe the (road bike) chain from the outside. THEN I put both of the extremity chain links on a coat hang wire each and keep moving the chain up and down in an alternate movement for a bit more than five minutes until the chain is only a little above room temperature. That way I do not have to break loose the chain after it cools down. A lot easier it seems to me. Let me know what you think about that.

Mil gracias, he encerado la cadena con teflón 1.6 micras y parafina, tal como explicas. Espectacular!!!, eres mi héroe.

Love your vids Mate. I want to wax my chains and have done so in the past. What I don’t like is the residual deposits that typically get left between the small sprockets on the cassette and occasionally around the jockey wheels. Finding the perfect lube is like the quest for The Holy Grail. The best I’ve found to date is also one of the cheapest. I really like Muc-Offs supermarket “Step 4 Dry Oil” it’s a white thin liquid and biodegradable. I’m based in the UK and this works well in all weathers but it will wash out in rain. The best thing about it is it’s very quiet and very clean. No black chain or cassette and a wipe down and reapplication after every other ride is enough to keep your drive train clean and silent. All this for less than four quid for 100ml bottle.

Love your detailed explanations. Thanks :)

Another great video. FYI anyone in the Philippines doing REPAL ride, waxing stops the volcanic ash sticking to your drive chain.

I just started waxing my chain yesterday! Glad this vid came out!!

I have been using paraffin wax for about 18 months now (summer and winter), and i will never go back to oil again. I don't use Oz's formula yet because i am still using up the MSW i had from before, but have it ready when the MSW runs out. Anyway i have tried different chains and master links. I live near the sea in a cold wet climate. The roads are salted and i have my bike outside all day at work. The best combination that works for me (so far) is to use a KMC EPT chain (which is supposed to withstand 650 hours of salt water) and the YBN QRS reusable link. It is cheaper and has a neater fit than the connex link.

Thanks for your video’s! I ‘ve allready waxed 2 chaines; one of my road bike and one of my gravel bike. Both stay shiney! No dirt on it and almost no maintenance. Top! Gr Paul (Holland).

Thanks for pointing out about the PTFE blackening on the chain. I thought I was doing something wrong because after a few rides the chain would have some dark residue when wiped with a clean cloth.

Im Nearly 3500km in using your waxing method on my emtb and im convinced that it works , i follow your system of chain and cassette cleaning and swap chains every 200km . Now i have it down pat and have all the tools required, its a pretty a quick and easy process . At the moment i have 2 chains on the go so i have a new waxed chain ready to go when i do the swap . Still haven't reached the max strech on the chain and the cassette looks fine . Emtbs are notoriously hard on drivetrains so im curious to see how it goes . Cant seem to find a connex reusable link for my 12speed drivetrain .so am just reusing the quick links thst came with the chain , so far ok . If i go on longer multiple day trips that are more than 200km i use squirt lube as a commercially available lube to keem me going. Thanks for the great information Thanks for the great information

I was just cleaning and rewaxing my ebike and found a good way to clean the chain and casette after the boiling water and its nothing but a steam cleaner. It works very good for cleaning in between the links where its way too hard to normally.

Couple of questions: 1. How would you go about preparing a used (or new with factory lube) cassette for a waxed chain? 2. Could all of these info chain wax info videos be added to a single playlist? Yes, the information has evolved and some has become outdated, however (speaking for many viewers) it has been very educational to see that progress. Having the videos numbered chronologically in a playlist would make seeing the process quite easy! Perhaps edit the titles to include in shorthand, what major changes to "The Formula" that video will cover? Or add an *Outdated* disclaimer for the older videos? I'm sure formula is getting close to "perfected," but I assume there may be further iterations (or testimonials) that could be added to that playlist! Brilliant stuff! Thank you!

I notice a new high end slow cooker lol - next level. Thanks for all the info, you're an absolute legend for all this knowledge.

just got a new commuter bike, bought a new chain, slow cooker and started waxing-only done a few hundred miles, some in heavy rain(UK) so far very impressed-smooth quiet and clean-keep up the good work :)

Yup! you keep getting better and better. Your the best!!

On your advice I started to wax my bike chains. Its amazing!

PTFE is expensive from where i reside. but this is really effective. Thank you!

5000km in with your waxing method on my emtb . Running 2x chains and still religiously swapping and cleaning every 200km , still not at max wear . 👍

You have to add bees wax to keep it from flaking g off, I also add 5% fully synthetic gear oil. Teflon powder would also be a great addition

I use bleach as the final stage of cleaning a new chain for waxing(after solvent risings), bleach(Sodium hypochlorite) will convert the remaining oils to different compounds on metal surfaces so it does not rely on rinsing the oils away like solvents do, with solvents you will always leave trace amounts of oils behind on the metal surface, this is a old painters trick to get sheet metal clean as possible before painting, I've noticed that it makes a big difference when compared to solvent rinsing only(and you can get away with one solvent rinsing only, before the bleach, depending on the chain manufacturer). Just wet the chain thoroughly with pure bleach and let sit for 5-10min or so and then rinse with water and dry well immediately... and you got an ultra pure chain for waxing, absolutely no oils!

The other way if you use a ultra sonic cleaner is to put the chain in a container of petrol just covering the chain and changing the petrol until clean rather than wasting a whole bath full of cleaner just a thought

Hey Oz cycle, thank you for giving the world this way off chain greasing, you put the chain disconnected in the slowcoucker, I do it connected and it works great and I dont have to clean the link just open the chain put it on the bike and connect the chain again, maybe you have something on this tip!

I’m using this and it is working great! The one issue I’m having that I haven’t seen you mention, or maybe you did and I missed it, I’m getting so much flaking. I’m using 1lb of wax to 50 grams of Teflon. I pull the chain out out 160-140°F. I give it a wipe, the chain looks fantastic, but after a couple miles it just builds up so many flakes. I almost wonder if it’s not sticking properly. I was using molten speed wax before your mixture. All I did was a hot water rinse before the swap. Thanks for the great videos!

I’ve followed all your instructional videos to the letter. I think wax is great as a road cyclist on a day ride or club ride in decent weather. But riding everyday in all weathers 🌧🌧 and I’ve found waxing a chain does not stop all my chains from starting to rust. Dealing with rust just once or twice a week from a club ride may not be a difficult maintenance issue. But riding a bike everyday and having to sort out rust is just too much maintenance. I’ve switched to revolubes and apart from wiping over the chain and giving it a basic clean, I’ve not had to do much for 2 months and it’s still going strong. So wax great for club rides but sadly too much of a maintenance burden for riding every single day in all weathers, for that revolubes is good. 🤔🙂🙂

Hey there. Just getting into this and cleaning my new chain for the first time. I don’t have access to ptfe yet. Can I just use parafin wax and then perhaps spray on dry ptfe lube (wd40 specialist makes one) for the time being until my ptfe powder arrives? I saw another video of a fellow that sprays it on the drying chain after he’s pulled it from the wax. Thanks so much for these videos.

First off love the vids and subbed a couple weeks ago. I just got a new chain last week but only did 1 cycle of gas->degreaser-> mineral spirits. Seeing this vid now it makes sense as I don’t think the wax is adhering as well as it could. Took the bike and on its first 20 mile ride w the new chain and it was excellent though. Might just have to re-strip the chain again soon, didn’t know the packing grease was so stubborn! Thanks for all you do oz.

I’m using the homemade wax for my road bikes, really great solution, thanks! But for the mountainbikes and gravel I use Squirt, my experience is that it works better in wet conditions.

Thank you so much for sharing all these very useful tips!

Been using your chain waxing method for a few years now, from paraffin to ptfe. Just seen an advert to Graphene Lube and wondered what you thought to that. I’m going on a two week cycle tour in July on a touring bike and wondered what to use. And thank you, I love your channel and your super friendly advice.

Try vibrating the wax pot (not the electric part). I believe it keeps the PTFE in a uniform suspension while the wax cools. For me the treatment lasted twice as long. I use an orbital sander attached to a hanging bucket along with a rheostat from ebay to slow the sander down.

If you melt you wax in a saucepan on the stove and let it solidify afterwards, then when you come to re-heat it the wax at the bottom will melt & expand faster than the wax at the top. After a while the melt will break through and you can get a nice fountain of highly-inflammable wax shooting all over. Better use one saucepan with a lid on it inside another with water in between.

THanks. After I wax my chain I use the leftover wax to do my legs. :)

Great videos-great idea, but, instead of thousands of bike riders learning to reinvent the wheel, it sounds like a good adjunct to the local bike shop or some entrepreneurs who want to set up a back yard business. I love the idea of a clean chain with no more oil stains on my clothing but as for the rigmarole of cleaning the chain, then waxing it, then connecting it, that is for the birds-especially at my age.

I waxed my chain a while back and it had been absolutely brilliant...until I went through a 100m long 40cm deep muddy puddle the other day and now it sounds like I’m cycling along with a flock of sparrows! Time to get the wax pot out again I think!

No 100% alcohol here in California. :-( I was able to make the 91% alcohol wax worked by microwaving it for 20 seconds to get it warm. Leave the bottle slightly open so not to build up too much pressure, then close it and give it a good shake to melt the wax, then squirt it on chain. When it's cold, It kind of solidify it rather quickly, so I am thinking about using the heat gun to warm up the chain first.

I have been riding a waxed chain for a while now and I am going back to "drip lube"! Wax is nice but if you ride a lot its too much time involved... remove the chain once a week and go through the boiling water, dry time, wax time is just too much. I finish a ride tired and want to recover then, of course when my next ride comes up I'm pressed for time and fuk! I forgot to wax my chain! Well "one dry ride won't hurt" has become my mantra! I bought the whole kit including PTFE powder if anyone in the states wants to buy it all contact me through my channel!

First of all: I really appreciate your helpful videos and I would like to thank you very much for all those tips and tricks. As I still have got some Molton Speed Wax left I am using this for waxing my bike chains at the moment. stirring a lot to work the wax properly into the chain. When I put the chain back onto the bike everything feels and sounds smooth. What I experience is that after cycling only about 100 miles in dry conditions the chain is getting much louder. You can really speak of a rattling noise. Also to me it feels as if I had to pedal a higher wattage than before. I then really feel compelled to re-wax the chain. What makes me wonder is that people say one can ride for a couple hundred miles in dry conditions with one waxing process...

I use wax on our MTB for a year now. I love it!

I got back to regular chain waxing in 2012 .

Hi there, thank you so much for sharing all your experiments and providing everyone your findings. Do you mind sharing the exact model of your Kogan cooker, as I live in Perth? Thanks

I just cleamed and waxed two old chains tonight. thank you very much for the The multiple videos you have done on this subject. they have been most helpful!! what about lubing the The front and rear derailleur when you have waxed your chain??

Hi Mr Oz. I agree that wax is a much overlooked lubricant that really shines on bike chains. I also think you probably also present the ultimate application method. But it is too much effort for the average rider and I want to propose the law of diminishing returns applies here. I applied blue rock and roll solvent dissolved wax over my factory oiled chain when new. And have reapplied on the bike every two weeks or so for two years now, wiping off the grit, surplus wax/solvent and dirt with a rag, and still my chain is 100% with no wear is measured. Your method may be 2 times better, but for most riders what I am doing is fine. Your thoughts? Cliff

Thank you Steve for sharing your knowledge, i am now another rider converted to waxing my chain. One question: can you reuse the wax indefinetely?

Brilliant videos. Recently waxed my first chain for time trialling here in the UK. Came to rewax yesterday and probably got a little confused over the chronological changes to your process. On rewax, do you still recommend rinsing with boiling water and a sieve? Also, on any waxing be it initial or rewax, is the immersion in cold water still the current best practice? I think on one of my chains I forgot to reduce temperature, I think it was on TT bike (but it is a well worn chain anyway - I have a brand new one waiting to go on once this one reaches 0.5%), so I removed it and wiped it out. It worked very well but this is the chain I rewaxed yesterday and did the cold water immersion on as I have an important race coming up this weekend. I also note that on one of your videos you say run it in with the factory lubricant. Unfortunately, I didn't see this before stripping a brand new Wippermann chain for my training bike. I guess the issue there is it will simply take a long time to bed in now it's super slippery? Thanks for posting these videos. Like yourself, I'm sceptical of all the nonsense out there (especially absoluteBLACK at £115!!!!). These companies are just taking people for mugs.