Your most welcome !

Probably best to experiment with all the methods and see what ones work best for you.

Thanks for weighing in. Glad you liked the video

That sounds like a good suggestion to me...thanks for the comment !

never heard those terms before...I learn something new every day....thanks for the information!

That is correct. That is the reason for leaving a part of the back cut in place until last. If you use the standard method for cutting a small tree with back lean ( putting the back cut in first , then the wedges, then the face cut. ) If you use that method and you are wrong about the lean. When you go to saw the face cut out , the tree will come forward on to your bar. It could just make it to where your bar is stuck , with the entire weight of the tree leaning on it It could also cause the tree to barber chair over your saw. Either way , it can cause some serious and dangerous situations. That is what method number 2 prevents. That is why I say it is the safest method.

@@norcaltimberfaller1943 Thanks for the reply. I recently found this technique called the "letterbox", kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g8B4fZOm1p6YeXU.html Works like a charm.

@@jimbrennan7415 Thanks for the link Jim. I have never used that technique myself. I normally turn the wedge sideways if I am worried about the wedge running into the hinge wood before the tree lifts far enough to go over. That being said, I can definitely see the merits of the letter box technique as well. Thanks for the information.

Sure, I will do my best to explain that. Let me start by saying this. Generally speaking , nice wide open faces are the most accurate and safe faces to use. However , when a person is falling tree after tree for a living , speed and productivity become a factor. Narrower faces are faster and in the right kind of timber they are also very accurate. What is the right kind of timber? Good question. The right kind of timber is tall more tube like timber. The reason this kind of timber does well with narrower faces is because it is committed to it's shot far sooner in it's fall. That is why it can break it's hinge wood earlier and still hit it's shot with accuracy. In contrast, "squatty" short, swell butted timber, with heavy limbs , needs to fall further into it's face before breaking hinge wood. If it does not , it tends to "drift" out of it's shot. Sometimes it can "drift " quite far out of it's shot. The bottom line is this. For fallers who are just starting to learn how to fall timber, always open your faces wide. This will give you the most consistent and accurate results. If you plan on falling a lot of timber on a regular basis, then begin practicing with some of the faster face cuts and other methods that will make you more productive , but still allow you to be accurate and do a good job. Practice is the key. That really only comes from cutting a lot of trees and getting a "feel" for what timber will and won't do. What works with one type of tree does not necessarily work with another type of tree. I hope that was help full. Thanks for the question,. Please feel free to ask any other questions you may have.

@@norcaltimberfaller1943 that was a great answer

I normally try to get my back cut to match up evenly with my face cut. That is when I am using a Humboldt Face cut. For a conventional face cut I do raise the back cut up two inches or more.

That is a good point. A lot of the techniques I use do require bore cutting, back baring , etc. I think that a video talking about the dangers of this would be good. I also need to talk about using full comp chain. That makes boring a lot smother with less chance of kickback.

That sounds like a pretty good method as well👍