That’s a joke, right?

@@jameshansing5396 It's hard to tell with some of these people. I read a review on an extension cord where someone didn't like having to climb a ladder to reset the breaker, so they removed the breaker. This is like the old style fuse boxes in america where people would put bigger fuses in because they kept blowing a fuse. A lot of these people then wondered why their house burned down.

😂

This does make sense to a bureaucrap, who has a totally different line of thinking from normal human beings.

@@Teslison I think you can do a level 3 in more like 6-18 months if you do it on it's own as a full time course. Or you can do it in two years as part of an A level program for example at a technical college, though it is a double award so it takes twice the timetable slots of a single award eg an A level. Then again that makes sense an NVQ level 3 qualification is considerd equivalent to 2 A levels passed with a grade C or higher.

time to retire in Texas

certification makes money for regulators and their friends who do them, + good news you have to recertify every year. For me who have a university degree in electrical engineering it is quite ridicluous to call a electrician if I want any change to my circuit breaker consumer unit or anything incoming... I just hope me installing a battery for my solar wont be an issue...:) not going to pay £2000 premium for a certified company to plug in 4 cables, +,-,earth and data RJ45...

Part P is a joke just another tax .You can do the job just get it part P by someone else .Yes it's a legal requirement but building inspector never asked for it as long as you do a certificate and they see a nic number complete joke.

‘Shocking work’ - hopefully not literally!

0:33 he's in reference to eu laws regarding electrical work, and thats 240 volts err I think its 230 volts 50 hz. No 110, 115,or 120 volts. But even in the usa you have to pull permits and get inspection in many places you cant even change a fixture without a permit and inspection

I agree, we had a new build and some stuff was horrible that the electrician did and the developer didn’t even check the home.

Totally agree I’ve been a electrician for 43 years and come across some really Bad workmanship also they have been registered

In my area, I've seen nothing else.

Good for you, and logical, or you could get a budding sparky and let them experiment on your property and why not do abit of Harry Enfield role character play, " you don't wanna do it like that " I'm sure the bud will love you for it 😏

Nothing stops you doing so, this video is incorrect in suggesting you can't. Any home owner can do the work themselves even to consumer units, but if they arent part P registered they will need to make an application to the local authority. The difference is that a part p electrician doesnt need to apply, they can just do the work and notify the local authority after via their professional body. The local Authority will want to be sure you are competent to do the work and will usually employ an electrician to double check your work for which you will likely be charged £200-300. As a retired electrician they may well seem you to be competent without someone to check your work but will want to see that you have done all the normal testing of circuits.

​@mikebarry229 not sure how true this is that building control will get an electrician to check it. In my area certainly , building control will just expect YOU to get it certified by an electrician, which in turn makes it impossible for you to do the work, as electricians just don't do this any more (only EICRs, which are different)

same her, i do all major work, self taught, get it approved by qualified sparky via council, much cheaper and great satisfaction

Thanks 👍

It's competent DIYers who get frustrated. I've no formal training, but I'm an electronics hobbyist, so I'm quite capable of understanding cable current ratings and derating them properly, and using the appropriate connectors. And I know not to trust any MCB or RCD off Amazon until I've personally had it on my test-bench to verify correct operation, given the counterfeit situation. I know what I'm doing, but the law disagrees: The default assumption is that no-one should be trusted until they have completed an extensive training and certification process, which is so convoluted that even on this video there are people arguing about exactly what the requirements are. There's no way I can prove my knowledge without time and expense.

@@vylbird8014 Think of it this way, your abilities, though good, will not convince a insurance company, who by remit, look for ANY excuse not to pay up. As frustrating as it is, its better to cover yourself by using a Electrical Company (fully registered) to sign off any work you may do. I fully agree with your caution over products, unfortunately people's remit is cheapness and not safety. Any electrical equipment should always be A1 plus, so pick carefully. If its cheap, there's always a reason!

No problem GS

Different, and considerably better.

@@vylbird8014 Cables buried in plaster, inaccessible junction boxes, and ring mains are far from "better". The main advantage is 240v instead of the 120v used in the US.

@@thelight3112 230V 😁

@@thelight3112 Cables shouldn't be buried in plaster, junction boxes should be obvious in location and accessible and ring mains require considerably less wire than the alternative.

Don’t know any decent sparks who’d be ok with that

@jameshansing5396 - Any qualified electrical inspector would be pleased to do an inspection and certify the work if it meets the requirements of Part P. It’s what inspectors do (there’s a clue in the name, ”electrical inspector”.) Maybe you should have stopped after your first five words . . . ?

Ok, your ignorance is highlighted several times there. An EICR isnt the same as signing off someone else's work. Part P is an insanely tiny part of the process, I mean TINY..... Part P course is 3 days, I got 100% on mine. BS7671 is 3/4 days, I got 96% on mine. BUT the rest of knowing your stuff is YEARS. Oh and let's not forget the week long Test and inspect course, 2391. As a working Spark, with many Spark acquaintances (So personal experience) the VERY best ones dont want anything to do with signing off someone else's work as they are too thorough and anal (a good thing). it really isnt the same as an EICR where you can load the cert with LIMs. Ill put you onto my mate if you like, he teaches 2391 and BS7671 whilst still being a working Spark. Id trust him over anyone and he wouldn't want anything to do with it. The only ones I have ever known do it were Spaks who's knowledge had zero respect for. SO you can try and be condescending but I have highlighted your ignorance and given you real world examples. Look over the comments, plenty are saying how sh*t proper Sparks can be. And guess what.... they will be the ones signing off some clown's work....... Unless I can inspect every inch of cable, check EVERY termination then f*ck that and by that time, you may as well have done it yourself. ;) I am open to the fact that SOME decent Sparks may do it but I still stand by my view, as I am not a total egotist like you who thinks my own small experience is all encompassing. $50 says you arent even a Spark yourself.... (If you are then that's scary that you think Part P is so relevant. It really isnt in the grand scheme of things). @@quirkygreece

@@jameshansing5396 I wish I could see the rest of this thread that has clearly been removed.

Are you a qualified electrician ?

@@williamspencer2899 obviously it otherwise why would he bother making his comment

@@callummiller5886 Doesn't mean he is an electrician, just someone who knows what he is doing and not messing about. Years ago I installed a power supply from my old 32A cooker supply, out to my garage for a welding machine. I've since had it checked over by two electricians (while having other work done) and they both (seperately) found it ok.

Back in the day, meaning decades ago, confidence was no substitute for competence and taking sound advice, so those able to do work did it. Most electrical work, and plumbing work, with modern systems, are DIY jobs. I’m sorry to say that sucking in air and shaking one’s head isn’t conducive to trusting qualified electricians, who, like double glazers, can be mere inspectors of work rather than the contractor, if you follow the regulations, and are confident and compliant. Rules were established to stop cowboys and incompetents, but have favoured the trade above those who take care and install competently as DIYers. Take care.

@@williamspencer2899 are you a primary school pupil ?

@@robfodder5575 I saved a fortune with regard to installation, despite the electrician I over compensated in parts and it was the neatest cabling he had seen. £300.0 for all the testing. I even convinced him the switch in bathroom was outside of zone two, which he reluctantly agreed. Perseverance and common sense prevailed 👍😎

@Peter Briggs I agree. The regs say you have to be competent. Yes some work is notifiable , but doesn't mean you can't do it your self

@@gs425 As a competent electronics engineer monitored by a qualified electrician this is within the regs as they would have been rejected from the day I submitted them on the original proposals. 👍😎

@@robfodder5575 you need to find an electrician that monitors your work. Remember earthing is important from switch plates to back plates if the are metal. If using armoured cable invest in earth locking nuts which earths the sheath only required at one end. Finally the metal cut outs need to be protected with plastic edging. Good Luck 😎👍

I've seen 245 volts on my system, and my solar panels are at maximum output (i.e. the volt drop in my mains supply cable means that my house runs at a higher voltage than the local substation).

@@roberthuntley1090 volt drop does not cause overvoltage . The opposite actually

only for England, Wales it still is

@@codenamenel That's reasonable - it is wetter in Wales so higher risks. 😂

@@barrieshepherd7694 🤣 In wales the whole country counts as within 0.6m of a bath. 🤣

@@KX36 can confirm.

That really does depend of the earthing type from the dno, it's not as straight forward as that

Glad it was helpful!

@@ProperDIY only as long as you live in England because its different for Wales

All in order and still possible. However, it really should be approved and inspcted by he local authority building conrol department who will extract a fee - when I checked a few years ago it was around £500 for a complete rewire.

@@jeremybarker7577 I think the qualified electrician and his mate cost £200 ish for the half day it took. Very thorough.

Yep, there's also the NAPIT inspection/sign off

Dodgy spark 😂

WTF are you talking about? There are no commutators on generators. Its AC, not DC.

@@mernokallat645 Possibly meant the transformer taps.

Read the posts on this thread. DIY electrical work is fully legal.

So could I install an EV charger myself? AC EV chargers are just fancy extension cables. The actual charger is built into the car. Yet they cost about £500 to buy and £500 to install. It’s ridiculous. I’d like to think I’m fairly competent, I’ve experience with UPS systems, batteries and others.

Yes: if you consider yourself competent and follow IEE guidance. I would imagine that you would have to install some pretty hefty cables to a new circuit breaker in your consumer unit similar to a kitchen cooker - but I would beef up a bit and put in 10mm2 cables. Remember; your EV will be on charge for a long time, and you should also protect with a RCD. Best way would be to instal a local consumer unit with a feed direct to the main interruption switch after the principle intallation feed

Level 2 chargers incorporate their own RCD.@@glyntutt1586

RCD = GFCI RCBO = RCD plus an MCB (micro circuit Breaker). AFFD = RCBO plus arc fault. Now becoming common in the UK is RCBOs on all circuits. AFDDs are mandatory on socket circuits on some high rise blocks, etc. They are _recommended_ on all installations, which means fit them unless a good excuse not to.

Found the same thing with a house I moved into, slowly been replacing the sockets for newer ones and the ceiling roses. Somethings may have been done by the previous owner of course, but a lot looked it hadn't been touched. For example removing one ceiling rose I found the cables had been stripped and the individual cores the insulation was cut and damaged exposing live copper, this could only have been done by the original electricians as no reason for anyone else to have cut and stripped those since. I found lots of sockets the cable stripped far too much so a lot of bare copper exposed hanging out the terminal. I'm not a qualified electrician, but have the knowledge to do it, so I feel happier I've gone around all the sockets now and replaced them knowing they are installed well. The trouble is with qualified electricians, is that anyone can get qualified, it doesn't mean you do the job well afterwards. It's like passing a driving test, you drive like an OAP on the test, but once you've passed....

Moved into a different house in 2004. My neighbour - since deceased - who was a lovely man, told me 'Brian was very good at DIY!' I decided to change the ceiling light at the bottom of the stairs since it was very old and not what you might describe as 'stylish'. Having switched off the relevant circuit I removed it from the ceiling and found the cable hole in the plasterboard ceiling was about 5 inches in diameter. Wow! I thought, that's a bit big! I disconnected the cable and removed the fitting. Then checked the security of the cable and found it was mixed with a large lump of brown mastic in the void. I pulled gingerly and after 5 minutes had removed all the cable from above the ceiling. It was still connected but the extra cable was long enough to literally reach the floor. Having shortened it to a sensible length and replaced the gaping hole in the ceiling I fitted a new light unit. The old cable went in the bin. Brian lives in Spain now and is undoubtedly causing havoc but in a different environment. His DIY was shocking. Brown mastic to point a brick wall anyone?

@@thetraveller869 Brown mastic reminds me that the previous owner to my house had stuck some loose capstones (on the low wall around the patio) back on with some sort of silicone adhesive, possibly bath sealant.

Qualification doesn't mean they take pride after the fact...! Sloppy is Sloppy, the rubber stamped version just costs more..!

Correct me if I'm wrong but part p does say this.

Go on then, try me.

As an electrician with 50 years of experience that's true. The same as with plumbers, mechanics and a lot of other trades lots of things are open to personal interpretation of the regulations we work under. The wiring regulations in my trade have so many cross references in it that you can easily loose track of the original item you were looking for so no surprise there is confusion and different interpretations.

Correct. It all comes under Health and Safety. They are the ultimate body. The are over GasSafe. If you see a badly installed gas installation by a DIYer, GasSafe are not interested, as he is not asking for money and not under their umbrella. When asked about allowing DIY gas work Health & Safety said that is not a problem overall, it is incompetent work by people asking for money, so called professionals. Hence GasSafe came about. They have the same view on electrics. But they cannot stop unscrupulous operators, so gradually making AFDDs mandatory (since June 2022) in some electrical installations and *recommended* in all, the safety level is greatly raised.

@ImARocketMan a rewire is only required when the insulation breaks down. There's a reason we go to college for years, and DIY Dave has no idea if that video on KZfaq is good or not

Loctite!

I do the electric myself and yes I research by reading the regulations on what I am doing, artisan electric has said some DIY electric people are better than electricians as they do a neater and nicer job, in my view if know regulations you can do electric as long as make sure it off before working on it (I cut through a cable once I thought was off but as the plug was under a table) but either leave sockets maybe hanging off or let an electrician unscrew the sockets so they can check the wiring and mark it off if you done a good enough job

@@mlee6050 so you test it, make sure it has a adequate zs. Do a insulation test? Thought not

Hi Henry , subscribe @mainly electrical 👍⚡️

Ok I understand that - thanks for telling me.

I wonder how this SWA its made off at the CU end ?

@@DerekHundik I'm guessing it isn't.

@@DerekHundik @mainly electrical 👍⚡️ get subscribed 👌

Some years back a MPs daughter tried to do her own electrical DIY (probably was dumbass enough to put metal against a livewire) and killed herself, then the law of doing DIY yoursef changed.

@@DavidJohnson-dc8lu Yeah, real "freedom" is the government protecting you from yourself. It's ironic that the country that is responsible for the political philosophy that birthed the US has strayed so far off their own path.

Aye some of us know how to get around the moronic rules here

@@Interdiction Oh, I get that, which just points the finger at how stupid the laws are. I'd do the same. On the surface at least, the law expresses a paternalism that is antithetical to freedom.Somehow though, I think it has a lot more to do with satisfying a self-interested lobby than it does with protecting people from themselves. It's more of an employment law than a public safety law. Credentials are often just a means of excluding competition.

@@Interdiction You can also just ignore them, to no consequence. It's not like the council is going door to door, inspecting all your sockets and switches.

Unfortunately, the wiring regs are not available for free (at least, not the current ones). I have managed to find the 16th Ed online, but not more recent. I won't link here because I don't want to give the impression they are still valid.

A1 ring final

This is a good point. A while back I replaced a section of wiring over at my Nan's house, which ran out towards an outside light. The installer (I won't call them an electrician) apparently decided that because the cable run was partially protected by the building that ordinary PVC interior wiring would be acceptable. I replaced the bodge-job light and ran new pond cable (HOF7RN or something) to it. I found the old cabling had started to become brittle and wasn't adequately supported along it's length, which was also nice. Apparently the same guy may have been involved at one of her neighbour's houses as they had the same type of cable but running to a garage, and their landlord had to have it replaced as it kept shorting out when wet.

I take code to be a minmum. I almost always go a bit beyond, it doesn't usually cost much and gives just that much more confidence that the system cannot be over taxed.

@@awt Why would books be published for free? There's no "unfortunately" about it.

Agreed - I picked up a Kewtech socket tester (the more expensive one) for any spurs I’ve added. Better than nothing I hope.

A Kewtech socket tester doesn't measure resistance. And any person doing electrical installation work, that has more than 1LB in weight of grey matter doesn't need a Kewtech socket tester. The wires are colour coded so you shouldn't be making the mistake of wiring them into the wrong terminals. It's the resistance measurements that tell you how good the connections and terminations are. The Kewtech doesn't give you that. And that is where the fire risk comes from, terminations which have too high a resistance. But if you happen to have a socket tester, then why not use it to detect obvious mistakes. So I don't think they are useless, but recognise that they are very limited in what they do.

@@PrinceBarin77 That's not how you test mate to see if a socket is safe mate.

All that is needed is a megger and a multimeter.

​@@rogerphelps9939an mft is well beyond what your average diyer has on hand.

I pity it is wrong on many points. Read my posts on this vid.

It worries me when I read prople are qualified tradesman in the comments. Yet they feel the need to come on here to watch -how to- videos. Scary.

@@grahamd5418Why? Its a video titled "What Home Electrics Can You Do Yourself". It's going to be of interest to many electricians purely to see what information is being put out there from a DIY perspective. On a wider level, there's a few professional electrical channels that are really good resources for increasing professional knowledge. Surely someone who is always looking to improve and increase their knowledge is going to make a better electrician than someone who thinks they know it all and don't need to bother

@William Tell Much of the skill sets is the same as other trades, such as: drilling walls, filling holes, fixing things secure and straight on walls, lifting floors, etc.

@rarmst75 > The advice Given in this video is 100% accurate No, it's 99% inaccurate.

All electrical (and plumbing) work in Australia is more strictly policed and regulated than in the UK - but the parts (or most of them) are still available in DIY stores. That said some of the regulations are weak - e.g. no need for CPC to light switches if the switch is fully isolated (not metal, no chance of contact etc. - those silly screw caps must have originated there) The regulations (Industry driven) are so all-embracing that you cannot even install your own data cabling OR terminate patch leads..... and don't even think you can install a second phone socket. Technically your transformer powered doorbell requires a sparky and you need a plumber to change a tap washer.

@@barrieshepherd7694Very few people get plumbers to change tap washers. Myself included, l learnt plumbing from my father who was a plumber and sparkie.

If you don't know whether you can, finding out from a bloke on KZfaq is not a good idea. Find a qualified electrician.

Twisting them together is bad for the cable and a pain in the arse when it comes to testing. Don't do it!

@@Savagetechie completely agree. Been a total pain in our house when changing out sockets / adding spurs. Maybe WAGO could make a special spiral connector so I don’t have to keep chopping them back 😣🤬😂

@@PrinceBarin77 you can get 6mm wago 221s that will probably take a twisted pair of 2.5, they will definitely take a doubled over 2.5

Never twist - lots of sparking points where they touch but don't bind together. Double over the wires, as in videos on YT videos by professionals for professionals, eg, eFIXX and John McGrath (who is an electrician by trade and a woodworker on YT). I've had to re-set socket and lighting wiring by professionals whose work reveals itself as loose and sloppy very quickly, sometimes within a day or two. Always check work by professional registered electricians unless you have seen them at work and checked their work, preferably in someone else's home!

Sounds like a good model.

How much is inspection?

@@neilbennett9281 I had to look it up, there might be slight differences for apartment vs house, full renovation/new build/small alterations. For a renovation of a house I checked 1 company and price is 215€. Not sure if this includes solar panels and battery as I did see seperate pricing for that.

France also DIY possible.

Even better in the Netherlands: no inspection required. You can do absolutely everything yourself, downstream of the sealed meter / municipal fuse box. You are responsible for working to code, and covered by insurance... unless they find out after a fire that you did not follow code.

If you had specified cables through joists, and he didn't, don't pay him.

I’ve had a similar experience. I am a retired engineer with decades of experience installing equipment in hospitals, including operating theatres, to a much higher standard than domestic installation - but thanks to part P I have to get a qualified electrician in to my domestic wiring. I wouldn’t mind - I accept that it is important to be up to date with the latest regulations - but I am often disappointed with the quality of the work, I know I would have done a better job myself and I always have to chase them for certificates.

It's because the paperwork costs extra money. If he's unregistered, he's _supposed_ to send a notification to the council that they've done work and pay a fee for the privilege. For small jobs, this can be a significant cost. And yes, he should have drilled through to start with, ensuring the the cable was laid 5cm below the surface or else protected from a casual diyer drilling or nailing.

@@randeknight cables don't have to be 50mm below the surface though. Perfectly fine to lay cables touching the plasterboard. According to regs anyway.

That's what I assumed the law was and common sense suggest something like: Do whatever electrical work you want to your own house, but if it doesn't comply with building regulations, expect to have to spend a fortune fixing it all if/when you come to sell your house.

Thank you

Theres a different doc for wales too, we still have to notify work in a kitchen and anything outside

I suspect that new DNO circuits for new streets might well have the secondary windings of the residential neightbourhood transformer tapped for 230V. But for every other existing 240V DNO transformer, it costs time and equipment to alter the tappings on the transformer windings. Given that there's no commercial benefit to the DNO in dropping the voltage for it's own sake (indeed it'll take longer for the kettle to brew), and that 240Volts is still well within spec, then the existing transformer will likely remain untouched until it's deemed inadequate to cope with the number of new solar installations, heat pumps and EV chargers. My own voltage shows up a strong correlation between solar output and higher voltages, with 247Volts seen at lunchtime in the summer. 235Volts is seen when there's a high load at home, but no sunshine.

Our supply varies between about 235 and 250 volts, as monitored by Kasa Energy Monitoring Smart Plugs. It's currently 251 V. I imagine it's only a problem for simple resistive devices (ie no PSU) where they will draw proportionally more current and therefore a kettle will boil a little bit quicker. So much of modern life uses siwtiched-mode power supplies which mean the voltage can vary over a very wide range while maintaing a steady 5 V (mobile phones and other USB devices) or 20 V (laptop). My laptop charger is rated at 100-240 V which means that presumably a nominal 230 V supply could fall a *long* way out of spec and still give 5 V out. The maximum of 240 V is a bit worrying if our mains is 250 V: hopefully there is a lot of "headroom" in the SWPSU so the mark:space ratio of the high-frequency switching voltage can be reduced far enough to give an output of 5 V even at 250 V.

Even in EU with 230 V nominal, its common to have about 245 V at night when the power grid only has a small load.

No voltages have changed, only what they are called. The tolerances have been changed to fudge it so that everything can be called 230V across Europe. On paper everything is "harmonised", in reality nothing changed. All equipment has to work over 230V +/-10%, but you will find that a lot of Chinese products are made thinking that 230V is the actual supply voltage and will fail at 230V + 10%.

The nominal voltage is 230V but the allowable tolerance means that a 240V supply under the older tolerance that would have applied when it was installed will still be within spec. When I had some work done earlier this year the tester said the voltage was 245V.

They are also significantly more expensive than MCBs

@@elminster8149 they're getting cheaper all the time and it also means you can spec the type of rcd that's in it for individual circuit requirements.

They do become significantly more expensive when they have an afdd built in but they'll soon come down as well as more people start using them.

I'm sure they are - I don't know what % of new builds are using them though.

@@ProperDIY my 4y old house still uses MCBs. Builder will use cheapest allowed system for as long as they are allowed to

Same in the UK, except you cannot pull the main fuse. The vid is wrong.

@@johnburns4017 thank you for clearing that up.... I can imagine a 7-year-old child attempting electrics probably wouldn't be a great idea... kids are getting pretty smart at a young age.. just because somebody can do something doesn't mean it's ok

@@Jawst In the UK the law says you have to be *competent.* If a 7 year old is competent then they can do it.

But you also forget to mention that The Netherlands has one of the highest standards of electrical wiring in Europe. Not to mention one of the easiest to maintain (in my humble dutch opinion :) ) But you will also find that an electrical fire will result in detailed scrutiny from the insurance company if they find anything wrong.

@@patrickd9551 All the EU is high. The UK has the advantage that is has the superior fuse in plug. The French, German, Swiss, etc, have DP disconnectors at the main panel. This means twin L & N busbars are used. Much neater. The UK is moving to DP, but not mandatory yet. The UK has AFDDs on circuits with sockets mandatory in some installations, being _recommended_ in all. Also SPDs are near mandatory.

You're so welcome!

My neighbour had an electric stove for years that usually blew a fuze when more than one 'ring' was used for cooking. He put up with it for years (at least his wife did) but when I helped fit a new electric cooker and checked the wire hiden behind the old cooker, we founf it was 1.5mm T&E, NOT 6mm cooker cable. Once the new 6mm cable was run to the mains, the new cooker gave no problems.

An electrician recently working on my brothers flat wired a 2kW electric room heater up using a spur taken from the lighting circuit. My brother quickly realised (once he had installed the fuse that for some reason the electrician had omitted to fit in the isolating switch fuse plate) that something was wrong when turning on the heater to test it was working tripped the breaker and turned off all the lights. The electrician denied all knowledge of any problem and refused to come back. So my brother told the main contractor who had employed the electrician that he could whistle for his money until it was fixed, and that he would be calling building control and everyone else that he could think of in the morning. The problem is not DIYers or electricians but idiots and both sides have them.

I would prefer the system some countries use where, if some sort of inspection is required, self-certification is never allowed.

Yes - not good really

@@ProperDIY Hope the thieves and burglars aren't subscribers to your channel then

@@ProperDIY stick a lockout padlock on upside down. after all your rcds will still trip under fault the switch doesn't physically have to move. it's no diffenert to not having as isolator fitted.

Alarms have battery backups that keep the system alarmed in the event of an outage. Mine, when it has no power, activates and you have to input the code to disable it. Much to the dismay of my neighbours one night we were away for the weekend and there was a short interruption to the power 😬

@@rodgerq indeed - 'tis why so many of them are able to make a racket during a power cut!

You are right there.

If people cannot understand the law, they will not obey the law.

Over priced.

@@derekgoodwin6646 Not over priced, just expensive. Price is dropping. But four separate devices that does what the AFDD does in one package then it will be expensive.

Still only a C3 on inspection, unless of course there is enhanced risk which would be unlikely. HOWEVER: One could argue that you haven’t made anything worse (safety-wise) by not installing an AFDD with an addition but you technically may have by adding more points on which a cable could fail and thus leave it in a condition considered less safe. It’s all getting very political. I was surprised AFDDs were not mandated for terraced houses where fire could spread through the joined roofing.

Do they work - reliably - on low current lighting circuits though? I suspect that their 'need' stems from the days when we were drawing high currents and potentially causing significant arcs.

@@barrieshepherd7694you “suspect”? 😂

until the price of AFDDs drops significantly it can stay a recommendation other wise you'd end up with £1200+ consumer units.

Most AFDD's at the moment are AFDD/RCBO combined. They are only recommended on any socket circuit up to 32A, so probably 3 or 4 at the most on any average consumer unit change. The definition of recommended under BS7671 means that is the preferred option when installing new socket circuits. You cannot now do nothing when it comes to protection against arc faults. Given the absence of any suitable alternative for AFDDs, this effectively means that AFDD's should be installed. A lot of sparks are using the term "recommended" as a get out clause for not installing AFDD's. Recommended as classified in BS7671 means should.

@@davebadger100 yup at £150ish each there's £600, £60ish for a bare CU (yeah I know they get cheaper but lets say summit like crabtree) SPD £50, £120 for other RCBOs round it a bit and say £850 For a average size CU.... yes you can get cheaper but certain brands you'd be over the £1000 and thats just parts.

The new regs only require AFDDs in certain circumstances (HMOs, care homes etc.). For most domestic installs they are not required at present.

@@rivkahlevi6117 Have a look at the EFIXX video What Does 'Recommended' Mean In the Wiring Regulations? They say different.

"as he had put a spur onto a 32amp ring circuit" Surely that is allowed

Typical insurance......biggest scam going.

Sorry, but that is not correct. If the damage for which you are claiming was not caused by the work, insurance coys cannot now deny it. This was an EU regulation brought in after 2001. The damage you are referring to was obviously caused by the work he had done.

"So the question is: Are you gonna let the fear of insurance control your life? A real man never worries about mistakes until its too late!" - Mehdi Sadaghdar (ElectroBOOM, 2018).

No it was not. The damage was caused by the water leak.@@DavidMartin-ym2te

Doesn't matter until you might want to sell your house...

And that's when you deny any knowledge of it whatsoever

​@@thetraveller869Indemnity insurance solves that

How do you know if you’re capable?

Best fit double pole AFDDs on socket circuits and high current radials, like electric showers, cookers, etc. Cover all safety bases.

Kitchens, bathrooms, etc, are notifiable. I can only assume it's because of the greater risk around water

​@@tonkatoy200 no, kitchens aren't special locations, as they are not mentioned in P2.5 (unless you have a bath, shower, swimming pool or sauna in your kitchen...). And your comment doesn't address whether "replacements, repairs and maintenance" are allowed in special locations without being notifiable.

@@awt Quote from a UK government site 'Very common examples of notifiable work are; rewiring a property, providing electricity to a garage or outhouse, the replacement of the main fuse box in a house or any electrical work in a kitchen, shower room or bathroom.'

@@tonkatoy200 can you provide a source link for that? Is it from www.buildingcontrolpartnershiphants.gov.uk/building_regulation_applications/domestic_electrical_works/intro.aspx#:~:text=Very%20common%20examples%20of%20notifiable,kitchen%2C%20shower%20room%20or%20bathroom. ? The fact that page still refers to CORGI suggests it's way, way out of date. My source is www.gov.uk/government/publications/electrical-safety-approved-document-p

The regs say within the 'special locations' even 'minor additions and alterations' are notifiable.

They changed the regulations in 2008 to remove the need to "bond" every metallic item together as long as certain conditions were met, so either they fell out with the Earth cable manufacturer and changed the regs to P them off, or what you heard was just an uneducated opinion

With every change of the wiring regulations there is usually a need to upgrade a consumer unit to a different type for various reasons. Over the years the safety protection has increased greatly. If the installation company you worked for still exists let's hope they change their outlook.

@@codenamenel Part P is all pretty general and doesn't bother itself with that sort of detail.

especially d.i.y ers touching ring final circuits

@@rayalbion9637 With respect, I'm a DIYer who recently discovered that my downstairs ring final circuit was broken on all three conductors and managed to trace which cable run had the break. I then split the ring into two radials and isolated and labelled the dead leg in each socket. Measured R1+R2 in each leg to determine that replacing the 32A RCBO with two 20A RCBOs was appropriate. Technically the longer radial might have an issue with voltage drop if the full 20A was drawn from the furthest socket but I made a judgement that this was unlikely. We have a separate kitchen RFC so the loads on the downstairs RFC are minimal. My upstairs RFC was also broken in one conductor and I traced the fault and fixed it. It was just an over torqued earth screw which had crushed the conductor to the point where it broke off. I moved into this house 3 years ago and although it was in a reasonable state of repair, I have made several improvements to bring it up to 18th edition standard from 16th edition. I have no doubt that it is safer today than it was 3 years ago and I will continue to monitor and improve it over time. I have an Megger MFT and I know how to use it. I also have a torque screwdriver which I was dubious about buying but have been continually surprised at how tight 2.5NM actually is! I use intumescent sealant and grommets to contain potential fire inside the DB. That all said, I'm not an electrician. I am an electronics and electrical engineering graduate and I'm also an electronics hobbyist since childhood which helps greatly with understanding of the fundamentals. What I lack is experience as an electrician and I am very aware of that and try to compensate in other ways. However, in my case I only need to know enough to deal with my own house and not every possible type of domestic and commercial property like a qualified electrician would be expected to handle. There is also nobody more motivated than me to ensure that my house is safe and functional so I have a copy of the 18th edition regs and OSG and have watched dozens of hours worth of videos to ensure I understand the relevant issues before undertaking any work. Before anyone starts quoting Part P, I live in Scotland where we are allowed to work on our electrics as long as we do it in compliance with the regs. My intention is to do all the work I think needs done and then bring in a reputable electrician to do an EICR. That will provide a second pair of eyes to check my work. Most DIYers should probably steer clear of doing electrical work but if you have the educational background and are prepared to invest in the necessary equipment and other resources then you absolutely can do your own electrics on a DIY basis. Assuming you are legally allowed to of course.

Totally disagree. Most DIYers want to do a good job as its their own house. Most tradespeople want to rip you off and do a bad job

I wouldn’t do much electrically as I’m paranoid albeit whatever DIY I do I try doing it to the best standard as possible because it’s my house and I don’t want it affecting anyone else either!

@@craigchamberlain Your the exception not the rule , i can not count how many times I have encountered problems with DIY on rings (its the norm) as you are already aware with your experience a ring circuit will very often give power at sockets even when incorrect , I think its a method of wiring thats had its day , Iam sure its only the u.k that uses the ring method of wiring.

That is just devolution gone mad. Presumably there are Welsh jobsworths trying to justify their existence.

That's Labour for you. The ultimate nanny state party.

And maybe the police

Also the healthcare system after you're unconscious

I was just wondering why are you watching this video then

@@totalplonker824 Because I want to watch it, what has it got to do with you anyway? 😗