Hello from the US.I heard another saying a while back that is similar. It is "I am too poor to buy cheap." After a tool fails you when you need it, or it just really can't do the job, the meaning sinks in.

Once in a while the Aldi stores sell a set of four chisels for a ridiculously good price. If you can find a set of them you'll love them. I first saw them being used by Paul Sellers.

@@watermain48 I was made aware of those in the same away - but I've never seen them. (I live in Cz, so it would be Lidl here.) I bought a similarly-priced set of four from Hornbach, with hopes that they would be of equivalent quality. Nope!

The Aldi / Lidl tools are often a hit or miss game. Sometimes you get lucky, but sometimes the quality is just pathetic. One thing I've noticed is when you do strike it big, you have something that can hold up as well or better than one of the popular brand name models.

I don’t need more than one set of “premiums”. Did my research, made my choice for me.

And there's just some types of tools that, even if you don't use them often, it's still worth it to buy at least a medium quality version of. You are more likely to see a bigger quality difference between a $10 tool and $30 tool.

I flatten the whole back eventually. I only do it fractionally as I use a chisel up though.

Good find.

We don’t have to imagine. It’s still around.

the old marbles ones were the best the newer marbles ones are crap the steel is shit

Decades ago I bought a set of Sorby bevel edged chisels thinking they were the ultimate. I like the box wood handles and the balance. I use a Worksharp to sharpen them. After each sharpening I quickly touch up flattening the back. However, I get the impression the metal is too soft. I recently bought a set of Narex. They stay sharp longer and the metal is harder. It would been a bit tedious resharpening by hand but with the Worksharp that isn’t a problem. I don’t much like the handles as much as the Sorby. If you have to sharpen a lot of chisels as in the video, don’t do it by hand. No need to pay top price. Stimulating video ✅

I have a set of the "real" Marples blue handles, bought twenty or so years ago when they were recommended as good "bang for the buck" for a beginner. I'm still no expert but have been considering a set of Narex Richters as an upgrade; it's sounding like maybe I don't need an upgrade.

You've obviously never picked up chicks with yer shiny chisel.

Id rather do it once and not worry about it for the rest of my life.

Uh, diamonds don't make abrasive slurry. You're not breaking off / wearing down to expose fresh diamonds. So, you sure it's improper or did ya not think it through?

@@wortheffort as with your last reply thats also false diamonds are hard yes but they are brittle and break easily they do indeed fracture and disperse in the slurry however in this instance im referring to the slurry created from the steel particulates themselves which contain carbides from the parent material this aids in abrasion of the softer iron matrix when looking at abrasive wear (adhesive wear is what blunts the diamonds themselves and a whole other issue) so these larger particles in the previous grits slurry get carried over to the next stone which get caught on the stones grit causing not only premature stone wear but render the stone ineffective lowering the overall efficiency its a simple issue to address but 1. Proper stone cleaning ...yes diamond plates should be cleaned after every use and 2. Stone separation it doesn't have to be a huge gap 1/4-1/2" is sufficient

@@jessebond4221 it doesn’t work that way. This is fine. No gap means less movement less mess.

Wicked edge and DMT have both released data about it... Edge pro was founded by a guy with decades of experience in the abrasives field and said much the same... The guy i buy my sanding belts from and i had a great discussion about it when discussing the merits of ceramics vs diamond, silicon carbide, aluminum oxides etc. And the frangibility of each...

@@jessebond4221 so I’m other words you have to real experience with this setup, just book knowledge. It’s all non issue IRL. other than HSS making lousy hand tool blades.

I have a 1/2" Narex Richter chisel and I absolutely love using it.

Should check out Rob Cosman’s comparison between the Narnex and Woodriver.

I never noticed the weight but have noticed they don't absorb moisture so on a long day in a hot warehouse they get slick and I get blisters.

@@wortheffort that’s a great observation that only comes with experience. Thanks for sharing it!

@@wortheffort I wonder if something like moleskin would help (the stuff for blister), but put on the handles with something like a strong contact cement so it could be replaced periodically.

There are plenty of those tests out there. Nothing I’d bring to table. I’m sharpening bc (honing) constantly.

I did say I was a snob.

It depends on the type of work you're doing. With a bench chisel, the back of the chisel is a reference surface -- just like the sole of a hand plane. Say you're cleaning up the cheeks of a tenon, the height of the tip of your chisel is controlled by the back of the chisel.

The link to the chisels he bought is in the video description. Veritas is the premium and Narex for his classes.

I know how to sharpen free hand. It's not hard. Tape on a the chisel would make it not flat. I've bought and sharpened 72 Narex chisels. I promise you this is much flatter and much less work than the majority of them. I tried not to state current brands as this wasn't about an individual chisel but the class of chisels (Premium).

LV states on their website that this chisel Shawn has is lapped both front and back by them, “all it needs is honing before use”. I really looked forward to seeing Shawn turn it over after the first lapping he did. I was shocked to see how wavy the back was after reading what LV said. It was not as flat as it should have been for a C$100+ chisel. Thanks so much, Shawn. Thanks so much.

@@woodbeeturnings I was surprised as well!

Same here. Half the enjoyment for me in woodworking is refurbishing antique chisels and planes to the highest quality that I'm able. My very first project was making a table saw out of a old ryobi circular saw and a closet door lol.

Don’t care for sockets.

Have you tried IBC chisels? I have a couple of LN chisels they are great if you can control shop humidity, otherwise your handles can come loose at the most inopportune times. I saw Rob Cosman with an IBC and tried they they are really good. I still give edge retention to LN but I use my IBC's most often.

@@frankhill9527 I’ve made my choice. Will likely stick with them.

Great video, thanks

@@Fair_dinkum truths...... some people on KZfaq are salesman, only interested in what they sell...... dont trust people like that, they prey on the people who dont know any better.

The veritas chisels are lapped flat from the factory (to 0.0005”), which is probably flatter than most sharpening stones. However, the chisel backs still need to be polished to a high a grit as possible to get a sharp edge.

@@vh9040 good to know, but why can’t Veritas finish the job?

HSS doesn't get sharp enough for a lot of hand tool work and has a rubbery feel on stones. Those are great for turning tools but there sharpening on an 80 grit wheel is acceptable. I'll stick to good ol O1 or veritas's new pmv.

@@wortheffort thats entirely false hss will absolutely take a fine edge and beyond .. A bit of history here im a career blacksmith of 28 years and hobbyist metallurgist steel is my bread and butter ive been smithing since i was 9 years old and have made i don't know how many thousands of knives and tools over the years including chisels... That rubbery feel on traditional stones is the stone itself ... M4 for example is chock full of tungsten carbides being 1.2% carbon by weight and 6.5% tungsten by weight along with 4.5% vanadium, 4.75% chromium, 5.5% molybdenum, 0.4% manganese and silicon with 0.2% copper... In comparison O1 is under 1% carbon, 0.6% tungsten, 0.3% vanadium, 0.6% chromium, 1.4% manganese, 0.3% nickel and 0.5% silicon... The working hardness of M4 is 64-65 HRC vs the working hardness of O1 being 60-62 HRC (working hardness being the ideal balance between hardness and toughness) along with M4 being significantly more abrasive resistant than O1 it has significantly longer edge retention at the same edge angles including chisel grinds an excellent example of this is industrial chipper knives and planer blades (non helical of course) which are all chisel ground ... That being said the carbides present will hold up to being sharpened with diamond paste lapping compound down to 0.1 micron (60,000 grit) extremely well vs O1 which has issues maintaining structure past 1.5 micron (12,000 grit ) as it has a tendency to roll the edge beyond that becoming blunt...granted its a very "sharp" blunt... Given the sheer volume of alloys in the HSS class all of which out perform O1 by a wide margin it has been relegated to the realm of a "budget" tool steel...will it perform? Absolutely! ... Is it ideal and "premium"? No it is not... Ive used it its some good stuff but its no M4, M42, S30v, rex121 etc etc

Oh and the new veritas PM-V11 is a HSS lmao its a pm (powder metallurgy using the sintering process) steel the modern manufacturing process was pioneered by crucible industries ... Decent stuff about on par with M2 HSS

@@jessebond4221 nope. Just bc something’s made via PM methodology doesn’t make it HSS. Judging by comments on other videos of mine youre making today you’re coming across a bit like an armchair quarterback instead of someone trying to re-educate via experience. How bout getting away from the screen for a while and go make something to see if what you’ve been saying works in the real world. Or make your own videos to share that “experience”.

@@wortheffort i haven't commented on any other video recently this is the only one and HSS is a blanket term used to describe alloys that can withstand higher operating temperatures than carbon steel without losing temper due to alloying elements nothing more so if a steel contains minimums of certain elements they can and usually are classed as a HSS even when not sold as such... Actually i just finished making a palm chisel from 15n20 for cleaning up dovetails and this weekend im going to be working on some Damascus for a slick with a buddy of mine...granted i know Damascus isn't ideal for a slick but thats what he wants ... I tried to talk him out of it to no avail

Just buy a sharpness tester. You may find that your 15 degrees isn't gaining you what you think it is. That shallow of an angle will roll over or chip off.

Okay, bend it by its width.

@@htcinfinity well i guess i could do it with a 1/4" (not sure with a 1" though) very easilly if it wasn't utterly useless, bending by its width does not affect flatness of the back at all 🙂

You flatten the back of a chisel so it is sharp. We say flatten but what we're really doing is lapping it. Although the edge being reasonably straight is somewhat important as well. Flattening and then progressing up the grits leaves a mirror finish which is a component of a sharp edge.

Uh, I did discuss working with basic