Glad I could help

Nice.

lol, Awesome!

Good for you. I think it's best to drive the car for at least 30 minutes to heat the oil up faster and get pressure up higher.

Exactly!

lol

Cool

thanks for sharing.

You are welcome.

Oil usually turns black within 1,000 miles on my car.

What you think about engine oil additives?

True

you are welcome.

check plugs vs a chart.

Glad you think so!

Did they offer to replace it?

Ouch! Glad you realized that it's consuming oil. The question is, where is the oil going? If it's going pass the rings, it is also going through the Catalytic converter. Eventually it will start to clog the Cat and toss a CEL (Check Engine Light) causing you to fail emissions testing. A clogged Cat can also cause performance issues where the vehicle will run slower and slower. An important question is what is wrong withing the engine that is causing it to consume oil at that rate? It that a common issue with those engines? Would it be cheaper to have the engine rebuilt or replaced? You are doing the best and correct thing by checking the level weekly and keeping it topped up. You can try to reduce consumption by going up one level in oil viscosity: example, using 10W-30 instead of 5W-30, of 5W-30 instead of 5W-20. See if that helps (also see if the owner's manual allows for a thicker viscosity oil with a hotter climate). Ultimately you may want to sell the vehicle or trade it in on a vehicle that doesn't have those issues, if this is a common issue with those cars. :(

I'm having the same problem with my 2017 sonata as well. It seems to be a problem with these style of engines. I've also done the same thing as you where the dealership did an oil consumption test and they pretty much told me the same thing. I'm wondering if you found a solution or found a way to help the car other than an engine swap. Thank you!

correct

yuk

Thank you very much.

Awesome

thanks for sharing.

Tell that to mine 740 that had multiple engine flushes and i've never put the same brand of oil when changing for at least 100k km xD (Yes, i know that it doesn't prove anything).

thanks for watching.

@Adrian B, the red block engine is designed to last 1 million miles. Hard to damage that engine with mistakes.

You are welcome

It sounds like valve stem seals. I have great experience using Liqui Moly Oil Leak Stop, but you should be careful, because it changes oil viscosity. I recommend using it only in hot climates (above 0 degree Celsius).

Plenty of things to do before emissions testing on older cars. Change the spark plugs, clean your mass air flow sensor with a good maf cleaner like CRC, have someone run a diagnostic tool on your car to check if your O2 and afr sensors are good, fresh oil and coolant, change the gas, air and oil filters. If your distributor is old; it might be a good idea to replace it. If you're still have smoke after all that; your valve seals are likely shot. If your coolant level rises after turning the car off and/or if you see bubbles on your oil dipstick; it's the head gasket. Edit: Use premium gas and install ONLY oem parts.

@@TheAdrianoos aGREE ..mine would only smoke like that at first but fast forward 20k and it would some all the time and fast forwards another 25k and it smoked like a train...valve seals were toast at 246 K

Not sure what kind of car you have but if it's one of the white block Volvo's, it's likely valve stem seals. Volvo even has a message in the owner's manual not to let these cars sit idle because by design (they are built broke), they can smoke when sitting idle. Chances are it's the seals and/or the PCV system needs to be serviced. When I use to do pre smog is change oil to thicker oil just before smog, then drain and fill with proper oil after smog.

@@RobertDIY it was the valve seals ...paid 650 for the 96 850 and sold it for $400 5yrs later...so can complain ...the guy i sold it to drove it another 1.5 yrs then 1 day it went bang !!

Thanks.

Worn rings, bad valve stem seals, cracked block, etc. I would do a compression test. If the numbers are low, it is likely engine wear blow by in the pistons.

You could look for excess blowby taking the oil cap out while engine idles.

PCV valve can be faulty, causing pressure that pushes the oil over the piston rings

parts.volvocarslisle.com/p/Volvo_1998_S70-25l-5-cylinder-Fuel-Injected/Engine-Coolant-Reservoir-EXPANSION-TANK/42813786/9141095.html

Robert needs to make time to install one of the 2 new coolant bottles he has for Panther. lol

@@RobertDIY well that’s a better problem to have, lol. thanks for the link

Yep

That’s because you do regular oil changes. In your case it’s probably not doing anything but also isn’t harming anything. The issue is when people use engine flushes when the sludge has already built up and it flushes it around the system.

I think one car is too small sample :) Interesting fact: in Lexus LFA, every oil service is done with engine flush on special oil, then after that new oil is poured in.

Congrats.

That's not a good procedure. You strip out all the antwear layer already built in, from the parts. New oil will have to build up a New layer again. It take a while. So you can be wearing your engine faster by lack of an antiwear layer until it builds itsef up.

🤕 Ouch

ok

thanks for watching and sharing.

Interesting.

thanks for watching.

Yikes!

@@RobertDIY I will now from here on out be making it a point to take care of my car.

thanks for watching.

thanks for sharing.

false

ok

Loosen gunk that will float around in the system. But, at any rate, my car runs fine. You can do what you believe and I'll keep racking up miles on my 530,000+ mile car.

If the oil pan us iff the car why would cleaning the gunk out be a bad think it's iff the car you ain't gonna re install it with the gunk left in it? So what are you saying?

Dude, I'm over 530,000 now on and driving the car all over the country.

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