Hey Dirtbilly Deluxe! Good progress Shawn! Big blocks are big fun! Ride ride ride!

Hi Mike and Shawn and Rory I really love your show and I really love when you help people when they need help I will always praying 🙏 for you 🙏 Mike and shan and your family and friends and Rory and he's Family and friends ok 🙏 please be careful out there ok 🙏 and please 🙏 be safe 🙏 so you get home 🏡 to your family and friends 🙏 ok you have a wonderful day and have a good night and day ok love Lorilee xoxoxoxox I really love your smile 😃 😊 keep on smiling 😃 😊 ok

Howdy. I think I watched Shawn “fade” into a trance pounding in that cover seal. And I loved the hyper lapse speaking. Keep up the good work guys. Thanks

I did the oil cooler lines deleate on my Brothers 1997 Tahoe. Easy job to do and no more leaking lines for him 😂 he didn't know it could be done like that. I just ordered w 78 oil filter housing and bolts and filter and slapped it together cut the lines off out of the way and done. The shop wanted a lot to put mew lines in and it was cheep to fix it like this

Gotta love the old square bodies . . . Mine was a shiney brand new 1975 Scotsdale K10.

I had dual 455 Olds in a Daycruiser back in the day when fuel was cheaper, now I have a *V6* boat 👍😎✊

Alright! Moving right along. I like the Chevy orange roof on the 4 door, it matches the Chevy orange engine color. Thanks for sharing.

GOOD JOB BOYZ!

Someone asked on the last episode why you would switch to a big block. How do you nicely say-It’s a BIG BLOCK

Shawn a couple things to help you out a little but probably to late for telling you now but for next time!!! First you should definitely get rid of that plastic timing gear and replace with a better one like a double roller timing gear setup!!! They are definitely a cheap insurance and the teeth on the gears won’t crack or get stripped off near as easy as the plastic timing gears do!!! The other little thing on your rear main seal is when you put in one half make sure that the lip is going correctly and leave around a 1/4” sticking up on one side above the block and the other side down a 1/4”inside the block!! By doing this it keeps all the matting surface so that they don’t all line up together!!! This will help keep from having a chance at leaks coming from the matting surface!!! I started doing this way back in the early 90s when I was learning from an older gentleman that had built engines for over 40 years!!! I definitely learned a lot for older fellas over the years and I’m very thankful for them taking the time at showing some younger kid at the time!! Ever since I started rotating main seals this way I’ve never had one leak!! Some no this little detail and some do not but I just like passing it on to others to help them out also!!!

GO DIRTBILLY DELUXE, you guy's are doin great 👍 Shawns putting in his engine, and Mike's workin on the camper AWESOME 👌 Thanks for the video guy's can't wait for the next one.

Great work Shawn, Looking forward to seeing it running, Jon UK

Heck yeah buddies! Thats a sassy ol chevy. Love the channel.

Hey Shawn, not sure your aware but the intake grows in length over a 1/4 in when hot... why the bolt holes are larger than the bolts. Gm drilled holes for the seals in an attempt to stop the gasket from moving but still fails. We found using a thick bead of "Right Stuff" brand sealer like your welding.... set the intake with bolts touching but not tight. Allow an hr & then tq the bolts down. This will allow the intake to seal & flex without leaking. I also use copper coat spray on all my head gaskets specially on shim style. Love the old squarebodys, building a CC myself with a 6.7L Cummins & Allison. Good looking Truck!

Oh god I luv that Chevy. We got them but we call them a 3+3 up here but super hard to find decent ones. Great job guys Shawn that engine is a Beuty!!

Mike I seriously can't wait to see the camper finished and see what the interior will look like! Just make sure to tighten the lug nuts! Shawn the truck is coming along it's going to be Sweet!

THAT CRANE SURE MAKES IT EASY PUT'N AN ENGINE ALL BY YOUR SELF ! MAN I COULD OF USED THAT A COUPLE TIMES IN LIFE. OLE CHERRY PICKER LIKE ME . RENTED !

Looking good.

Some wrecking yards here punch the fuel tanks as well, making the newer plastic ones more useless than what you're trying to replace... You're the first person I've seen use the rubber chinawall gaskets, everyone else just uses RTV. Aluminium is a great conductor of electricity, so no issues for grounding it through there.

I use a couple of long studs in the engine allowing more room from the engine to line it up,once the other bolts put in firm take studs out, replacing with original bolt's, just the way I do it, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones

I love those 4 door square bodies! I want one! That one looks like it's in great shape! 🤔 👍 👌 😍

Wonderful progress ! Thanks for sharing !

More power ! That'll do it for sure.

I never heard the term flex plate until the past few years. Growing up it was always fly wheel, is this some Magellan Effect shenanigans?

Hello Dirtbilly Delux Love your shows looking everytime its on KZfaq keep it up Pelle from Sweden

Mike's a good buddy

To seal the headers throw away any Port gaskets that you think you need and use permatex copper high temp RTV. At the collector flange use copper collector gaskets and the same RTV. You are welcome.

Beautiful pick up. It could only be better if it was a dually.

I had an Offenhauser on my 351c 4bbl

You can buy fin combs and fix those bent fins👍

Njooo enchin howboatdaaat!

4 the algorithm

Haha gotta love your best buddy cutting and sanding wood when you have an open engine! Love it😂

😅.. ask Casey Ladelle about his “bill mounted” camera (that allows for using both hands) 💫

👍🏽👍🏽

on my 454 I used an engine oil cooler plus added a second trans cooler for running in the desert. Worked great. 110 120 degrees in the desert peddle to the metal, up hill the same, never over heated

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Take the Peanut port heads on the side put 781 heads on in place Put your timing set in the trash put a double roller time set on and use silicone on your China rails trash those china rail gaskets in the trash plastic gear timing chain set not changing it Well come back to bite you

The plywood is 7/16 (0.4375"). Most 1/2" plywood historically is 15/32 (0.46875").

Don't put those end seals on the intake, just use silicone gasket maker to fill both gaps and let it set up about 10 minutes before you put the intake on then won't have those pain in the ass gaskets slipping out guessing leaks.

When Shawn said it was Tuesday I was like, "Ok good, thank God." Edit: time to get a tripod Shawn.

in the words of Mike: Victoree

Torque Monster. Big Ole 454 under da Hood !!

Hey Shawn you said that you found that the back of your intake is leaking on your buggy!! That is because every time you use those rubber gaskets for the front and rear of the intake they will eventually blow out for sure!!! They may not leak at first but I can almost guarantee you that they will over time!!! All you have to do is just put your intake on dry and check to see how big of a gap is in the front and rear!! Then take the intake back off and put a bead of high temp gasket maker on about an 1/8” to 3/16” thicker than your gap that you had when checked dry fit!! This gives the gasket maker enough to compress as you tighten the intake down!!! Also the reason I always dry fit first is because I have seen front and rear intake gaps as thick as 5/8” and if you only put on a 1/4” bead well it definitely won’t seal up and you will have to take the intake back off and redo the gasket maker!!! Some engines have had the deck’s surfaced and also had the head’s surfaced also so this will definitely change the gap at the rear and front of the intake!!! If and when you regasket the intake on buggy just throw the rubber gaskets in the trash can seriously and just use silicone to seal it up at the front and rear of the intake and as long as you have enough so that when you tighten the intake up that the silicone starts to squeeze out a little bit!! If it does this all the way across where you put silicone then it definitely should not leak unless you have an excessive amount of crank case pressure witch can cause gaskets to blow out!!!

Throw away the rubber intake end gaskets, use only a bead of RTV.

Shawn you did a good job. Just rmbr build up them China walls if you don’t want the intake to leak!

32/16 is one and a half inches

😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎

🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟

Is wood not a inferior product? Lol

I like the progress on the truck I admire how you guys don't believe in letting good parts go to waste that is smart and saves money

👍🏽🤟🏾🤘🏽🤙🏽✋🏽😎✌🏽

Just wondering Sean why you wouldn’t put a new timing chain set in maybe a double roller set and get rid of those nylon teeth on the Cam gear that always fail.?

💖💘💖

In my day (when dinosaurs roamed the earth) we called that brand of intake an "Offy" because the name was too long.

Lmfao....the high speed sounded like an auctioneer assembling an engine

Comb the fins with a good heavy wire brush to open them back up on the AC cooler

shawn the thing you called a gapper.Is a shoe horn .it is used between block and new rear main seal during instal. it keeps you from shaving the edge off the seal.Maybe read the little bag that it came in.stuff happens.

The 32/16 rating means it can be used for roof decking over supports up to 32" on center spacing, 16" for flooring. So if you are using that for your subfloor then the supports underneath should be no more than 16" apart. And the fight over name and actual thickness is a fight already fought and lost, its the lumber world which this is not the place to get into it.

Ditch the intake gallery gaskets and use a solid bead of good silicone. Let it tack up a little before sitting on the intake. Promise after doing it once you will never use those gaskets ever again. No more leaks.

Should have plasti gauged all the mains and rod bearings while you were in the bottom along with a torque check on everything

Why are you pulling apart what appears to be a fresh engine?

There's no replacement for displacement..

16/32 is a 1/2 inch, maybe someone put the numbers backwards.

Don't put rear main seal in flush with block have it stick out a little bit this way no leak.

Shawn,luv bro.Did you clean and soak those lifters,looked shitty.!!!

Two Hundreth, Ninety-First!!🙋‍♀️👍😁💯

How many people jumped up to answer the phone at 5:55 ?

Aluminum header gaskets work well. I cut off the stupid collector flanges and use regular exhaust connections.

COME ON SEAN . CAN'T YA CLEAN DAT INTAKE A LITTLE BIT . AND THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT COULD USE A LITTLE TLC AND maybe a little bit of PAINT !!!!! Come on !

First!!!

You should have changed the timing chain

Thirty Seventh

Still looking for the finish of the camp trailer, thanks

1st

Sanderson headers won't leak on you, and they require silicon no gaskets.

From a flat rate gearheads, unless you are checking rockers, I never pulled them off. Just pulled head bolts and away you go. Just saying.

Your valve lash is too tight for hydraulic lifters. When the lifters pump up, your valves won't close. You only need to take the up and down movement out of the pushrod, then give it your half turn.

I would have changed the timing chain ⛓️ to a double roller chain.

They ripped you off by 1/16 of an inch on that plywood. .438” equals 7/16”. Return for 1/2”. Noticeably more ridged

$15 tripods are your friends. That rear seal bit was damn-near unwatchable. Just sayin.'

Nylon cam gear. Should ran out and got a better quality metal geared set