in my previous working life I maintained a SEM, There is so much semi detailed articles in Tribology that they often counterdict their findings. Thanks Lake for simplifying the relationships between the parameters of friction, wear, and lubrication.......no wonder your dad;s go karts are so fast! Keep the science comming.

Great presentation. FYI, there is a major F1 engine supplier that worked on this about 20 years ago.

Thank you Lake and Dr. with all this great data. Thanks Lake a few years ago I contacted you about using high zinc Driven Hot Rod oil with high zinc in my newer cars and not just my pro street car and my newer cars upper cams still look brand new with 100,000 miles on them and run so nice. Not a bit of smog or car issues since you said it won’t have unless the engines burn oil which they do not . Fantastic oil.

Wow, excellent content! Thanks for the leading edge info! I had been waiting for this pt 2 😊

I had to watch again. Tribology is fun! 😅

More great information. Thanks for sharing the Technology. Have a great day. Take care, Ed.

Very interesting..... Cant wait for part 2.

I would like to see Nikasil bores compared to various types of iron, gray, CGI, and ductile. WPC treating the bores would be interesting to see, too.

Love,love ….love this!!!!! Can’t wait! 🤞

awesome stuff!

I bet vehicle manufactures run the api due to fuel milage with the low friction because alot of small things in the pursuit of fuel milage do matter. This is very fun and interesting information. And i thought i knew alot about engine oils.

Great info.

Cool vid lake its crazy to think after all these years there still at least a century or less to go before fuel and engine performance hits it peak.peace

Great information… What’s missing for me, is, what do the various finish numbers represent in the images, and how do different values physically look in comparative images?

It’s chemistry, metrology and tribology 👍

Lake, I love your videos. I've learned a buttload. Can you please have a look at BG's EPR engine cleaner? I've had magical results with EPR. I've always used engine flush from multiple brands but it seems the best result is super-thinning of the oil which speeds up the oil change process (the old oil flies out the drain hole). With EPR my oil is black as pitch even though I'd been running synthetic oil the last 20k miles (5000 mile oil changes). I think EPR is the real deal, but I'd love your analysis.

Can you roller burnish a cylinder then hone it?

So regarding to the widely spoken bore scoring on M96 engines from Porsche…. What is your opinion on those lockasil coating and how to maintain them?

After you loose the cross hatches the cylinders become polished which leads to oil control and oil usage !

2+2 equals 5. That sounds like it is with Eurpeian tax included LOL. .. Good info

Will you post the results of the oil tests?

As this work materializes do you see the path of discovery for engine builders to submit requests for testing/ information from SouthWest Research or information being distributed through vendor partners like Total Seal, Rottler, Digital Metrology, etc? It seems to me that we are only beginning to scratch the surface... on the subject.

How long do you guys recommend to run the brake in oil in my engine for best results?

Do I get it right, because it is the opposite that I thought was logical. I always thought that a full synthetic from start has less wear? Normally a new KTM motorcycle engine has break in oil that should be replaced at 1000 km. I experienced 50 more revs at idle after changing the break in oil for a 10W60 full synthetic. Is break in oil normaly a heavier grade oil?

So if you're reducing wear with break in oil, what are you trying to achieve during break in?

Is 2:38 using Driven gp1 20w/50? I use gp1 20/50 in my cart engine, it offered outstanding protection that carting oil dont offer for splash lubricated engines 😮

I like using 820 stones on my final hones. Olympia Engine Builders

What about oil additive like motorkote or bestline?

So it is incredible to think about and watch these things but how the heck is the everyday engine builder watching this supposed to do anything about it? What if all the local machine shops are still using the same honing equipment they did in the 70s and think it is just fine on new fangled engines? How do we find someone who knows how to do proper plateau hone jobs and stuff that are correct for your newest high tech rings? I do a ton of new hemis and I have several customers who bought crate engines from a localy very popular engine shop and they all use a quart of oil every 500 miles, seems even some of the big name shops don't know how to set up for modern, thin low tension rings, they probably do just fine on a stock 318 but can't seem to get these new engines right. I would love to take my blocks somewhere to get stuff done right but don't know where to start...

Data/info like this makes you wonder how that tree-fiddy you spray-paint "rebuilt" with a dingle-berry hone and some generic Hastings rings back in 1991 still runs good after 150k more miles...

So… dumb question: when is engine break in done?

So, did they test, diamond ring coating with light weight oil, let's say 0w20 and heavier oils like 5w30?

Its Physics

Sooooooooooo....no conclusions, no recommendations. Just a bunch of uncollated and essentially random data points that cannot be assimilated into a meaningful whole.

You dress nice to change oil