WoW, you fellows are teaching a lot of great information for folks who are into racing and just good engine care. I remember our automotive teacher in high school teaching us young greenhorns how to look after your car, allow it warm up properly and to change oil regularly are all good fundamentals about engine care but you folks have taken to a whole new level. Thanks for sharing!

The crank looks better than I would have expected.

Very cool! I watched both these videos and really enjoyed them. I work for a major industrial engine company and we always worry about contamination. Great to see this research.

Your test provided some really important and valuable data.

Most of the things I learn from you are beyond my abilities in my little 2 car garage, but I like to learn them anyway. Thank you for your efforts in making these videos.😊

It hurt me to see that too! Really appreciate the info gained though! I would be very interested to see the TurboMaxx oil additive used in that kind of test. I know you don’t recommend additives, but TurboMaxx does an AMAZING job reducing steel on steel(iron) wear.

In my past life I ran a self service automobile wrecking yard. You would walk through the rows and rows of the cars and many times the customers had taken the engines apart as part of them looking for something they needed to buy, so you would walk along and see an engine for example laying on the dirt with the oil pan off and everything exposed. You could look at the car it came out of and see how many miles were on it if they hadn't pulled the dashboard with the odometer in it. As a long time engine guy, I would sometimes just pull the mains and rods off and look at it, and even sometimes measure stuff. What always amazed me is that you have to know that often these cars didn't have the bet of care or products used over their lives. Often the interior of the engine was pretty black and ugly. But what always would amaze me is how good crankshafts were and what the bearings looked like. Generally things were pretty good. People would ask me how that could be and I always said it is a testament of the quality of all of the motor oils that are out there, no matter what the brand. Clearly, we didn't know what was used in this car over its life, or how often it was serviced. Honestly, all manufacturers engines showed those same results unless the engine was seized for some reason, probably overheated.

,,, the Spintron and a few more bypass filter systems will pull stuff out all the way down to 2 microns and smaller; however it takes time to do it because they are not full flow systems .

Great content. Thanks for sharing.

Great Test.. it would of been interesting to see the bearings after the paper filter - because now we see after the paper and the system 1 filter results...

I use Wix XP filters for my C7 ZO6. So far so good.

Reminds me of how many people I see using Roloc abrasives on engine parts and castings then quick wash and bolting it all together....knowing,, at least I suspect ,,,there are still silica abrasives in the pores that will migrate to the bearings ,, cylinder walls , wrist pins ,,rocker shafts,,pushrod tips and various needle bearings ect

,,, one very interesting thing happened to us at Jenkins Competition about the time we put the first small block on the pole at the Daytona 500, with DiGard, and Donnie Allison, was that when we lost a flat tappet cam on the dyno, the first thing, before it could be heard, or even lost power, was that all of a sudden we had blowby . That nasty flack put dead vertical scratches in the rings . The flack, adhering to the piston skirts and some even to the cylinder walls , as it got slung out at a very hard velocity on the early disintegration of the cam and tappets . Definitely on the piston skirts, memory is a little suspect about the cylinder walls . But yes, blowby seconds before loss of power . Of course it was immediately shut down, and honed and re rung, and had to literally pick the flack out of the skirts .

Great stuff. At 12-24 microns an even stock filter should remove a big portion of that dirt. But what many people don't realize is that screen filters may claim to filter down to 10 microns but they don't list their efficiency at that level. Even a Wix filter is capable of 98 percent filtering down at the 30 micron level while all the screen has to do is filter one(!) 20 mircon piece of dirt and they can claim that they filter down to that level. A typical Wix filter claims to have 85 percent efficiency at between 12 and 30 microns with near 100 percent at 30 microns. So it could be that most of the damage was done in the first few minutes of operation before the paper filter did its job. All engines bypass a certain amont of oil so it takes awhile before all the oil is filtered at least once. Still - a great test - but I would expect nothing less from you two guys!

That’s why I just changed my oil and filter at 1000-miles on my new 2023 venza limited hybrid.

And this is why my GDI engine oil gets changed every 5k miles, but the filter is changed every 2.5k miles. A clogged filter bypasses and the harmful crap just flows on its merry way. The smaller the micron rating, the more it filters out and I need my car to run a long time.

I wonder if Napier rings are a carry over from the Napier rotating sleeve aircraft engine developed in the U.K.? Once they figured out the oiling issues, it was very successful but then came the jet engine.

What did the oil analysis look like after? Might have been interesting to put a sampling port in the lube system to sample the oil at intervals during the run period.

Could you point out on the crank journals which bearings were coated?

How small are the microns coming from engine wear and do you have a preferred brand for oil filters?

I'm curious; what was/is the mean size of the powder? Typical full flow filters are like 98.9-99.9% efficient on particles above 10/20 microns. So, the filters should have got most of the powder. I haven't watched the filter video yet, but I'm about to. What would be real interesting, if you want some more content suggestions, would be to run this test again with an oil bypass filter (Amsoil, Frantz, Kleenoil).

I got some contaminated oil that ran through my brand new build for 20 minutes. The oil had little gold flakes of some type of metal. Didnt notice until i drained it after the 20 minute break in. I wonder how my brand new bearings are 😵

would have been nice to do a run with a magnetic drain plug

I suspect that the red iron dust is iron oxide. I don't know how the hardness of iron oxide compares to the steel crankshaft. If it is significantly harder, it might be acting like a true abrasive.

How much do u think a magnetic like filter mag would save it ?

That looks like red iron oxide; not iron powder. Why not use iron powder?

Off the subject but, can you test or at least explain the difference between highway and city driving on oil life?

So what exactly did we learn? Adding iron powder to your oil is a very bad idea!! Mmm kay, well I could have guessed that one! The real lesson should have been what oil filter did the best job, but I didn't hear any brand names or part numbers mentioned, so we really didn't learn a whole lot!! A lot of fun destroying stuff, but nothing really learned.

No real new information gained, with the exception of showing the metal screen filter used was not as effective, and by a decent amount compared to the standard paper filter. This was more of a two oil filter comparison than anything else...taken to an extreme by adding iron dust.