Probably one of the best videos you have done, and certainly the best I have seen anywhere explaining how potential heat sources can be exploited.

I recently finished insulating my home and am now considering the next step. As I live in the Netherlands, getting a Heat Geek trained/approved installer is a bit of a challenge, and from what I have seen, most installers here just choose what they know. I think getting underfloor heating first should make sizing a lot easier, and with insulation the gas boiler is using about 8000 kWh a year including bath and shower (estimated at 1800 kWh). The system runs pretty efficiently now, and throttles back to 4 kW in most cases (with some tuning), and maybe with underfloor heating I could get this yearly usage down a bit further than that. So what do I do next? 1. Get underfloor heating installed first and measure for another winter. 2.Just install a Vaillant R290 heat pump based on the current heat loss and installed radiators. 3. Get a total quote/design and have everything installed at the same time (or warm month) by one installer, so the system is perfectly matched from day 1. Or does it not matter as long as each installer does a good job?

Wish you guys had heat geeks in Austria! Love this channel!

Brilliant video Adam. A highly informative 9-minute watch. Many thanks

Great explanation Adam. Interesting to hear about the different types of ground source.

Love this channel. Just graduated from engineering and love the idea working for myself in renewables. Signed up for a course on heatpumps, then I'm off.

I have just bought a split system heat pump from Fischer, only company doing the split- the hot water system separate to the radiator feed, meaning in summer I don’t need the heat pump on for my hot water. Double efficiency

That was excellent thanks! So we have a Calorex system that was installed into a new house in 2008. We had no idea what it / heat pump was, it was totally down to planning permission for a one off build on a plot. For this reason, took as some years to make the best of it, as we just treated it like a gas boiler and were therefore a bit disappointed. Now the whole thing makes more sense. I am aware that Calorex seem to be out of the domestic market now (seem to do swimming pools). So will be interested to see what we do when this system eventually needs replacing. That said, seems quite robust. Two compressors. No resistive heating. If required can to domestic water to 55C with no issues. Mark.

Can you guys make a video on district heating and the use of heat pumps within those scenarios

I would suggest that you might talk about a heatpump cascade of 2 smaller heatpumps instead of 1 bigger due to higher efficiency and longer running time instead of short cycles in spring and autumn. You had mentioned it in the most recent skill builder video at Adams home when you were discussing about the leading installations with only these 2 words but I have heard about that before. Of cause you had mentioned that 2 smaller heatpumps can get a lower modulation especially if one is turned off, but there might be a more complex story behind it cause I wanted to avoid these short cycles we call "clocking" , when the heatpump can no longer modulate a too low heat load and can only turn off and wait till it turns on again - kind of pulse width modulation.

Interesting dimension suggestions on the ground geating system. I live in Finland around 60 degree nort. The average yearly tempreature here is around 6 degrees. That correspond very well to the ground water tempreature. When operating a ground water heat pump we typically loose one to two degrees after a few years of operating. We have underfloor heating in a house we built 2004. Building standards required tripple glazed windows and minimum of 30 cm of wall insulation and we have 35 in the walls and 50 cm in the roof. Seiling hight is 2.4 meters and we have 208 m2. Our well is is 185 meters deep out of which 178 meter is active in the rock. Our cuurent heat pump is an inverter model with max 8 kW (replaced in 2023). The first pump was 9.5 kW on/off model. Both of these have been sufficent to supply the heat and warm water without tiggering the direct electrich heaters for anything else than heating the tap water to 65 C once a week. We consume around 10 to 12 MWh a year depending on how cold winter we get. That is around 2500 Euros per year including all electricity. In the past the systems were dimensioned to cover 70 to 80 percent of the heating requirement butalready in 2004 I decided to dimension it to 100 percent. That is now the common way they recommend over here especially with the inverter models. There are a fw reputable brands of heat pumps that are commonly used here. Those are Nibe, Bosch/IVT and Thermia. For commercial usage there is also Viesmann.At least these have stood the test of time. Our first pump was a NIBE and now we have a Bosch. I chose Bosch this time due to the reputation of the local installer, especially there life cycle services, not only the quality but whith the speed they are available. The new pump is not more efficent than the old one. Maybe a little more efficent when heating tap water. I have only been running the new pump during winter so far and the COPso far is 4.3. I excpect that to increase slighly over a full year. The tempreature in the well did go down to plus 3 degrees during the winter. We had - 30 degrees for a 2-3 weeks this winter so not bad. Most of our neighbours have ground heating. No well is closer than 100 meter from each other. Too many too close to each other is not good for keeping the ground water tempreature. If you live closer by each other in a residenial area this can become an issue ofr yourself and your neighbours. The ground water can however be 1 to 2 degrees warmer if there are lots of buildings and paved rouds. The groud will become warmer during summer due to the black surfaces. Our geological institute have surveyed most of the country and one can see the type of bedrock you have. There are differencies in the heat transfer capabilities depending on the rock. We normally do not have to make any ground surveys when drilling an well. The only risk one faces is how far down the bedrock is. The cost for the part before reaching the bedrock is much more expensive as it needs to be fitted with steel pipe. A typical installation around here without the floor heating would now cost around 20 thousand Euro. If the house is over 160 m2 ground heat starts to become feasible, for smaller houses it is questionable. I guess in central Europe it could be questionable if it is feasible since the heating requirements are less. I would not concider installing at least a ground heat pump if average tempreatures are above 12 degrees, especially not in an old house. This of course depends on the electricity prices as well and those are difficult to predict 10 years ahead. If possible I would first look into the insulation.

Thanks for this informative intro to the evolving and confusing topic. I’m looking for information around small air to air or air to water heat pump solutions. The idea being that a single radiator or fan would give a continuous low grade (20 or 30 degrees c) supply and help to stabilise a rooms temperature. I know I’m missing calculations for room size and probably more to understand how the room losses heat. Is this something that is relatively easy to do?

The flame logo with the glasses is 🔥

I think I'll get an air to water heat pump eventually but prior to that, I'll focus mostly on a "fabric first" option I've got microbore piping so I'm going to to replace those I'll also make sure I get super insulation, triple glazed windows an MVHR, Jaga Strada radiators etc.. As for my parent's, they live in a terraced house so I'd hope that the council could install some kind of community heating solution. Being a mid terraced house presents additional challenges unfortunately

Have you got a information on hybrid air pump ? Are they any good ?

I know someone with an old Worcester Bosch ground source heat pump that was installed around 2007 along with underfloor heating, they have no end of issues with it having alarms going off all the time and have the front panel off to access a reset button on regular occasions. Apparently they need a replacement part to fix this but are having a tough time sourcing the rare parts, should they cut their losses and install a newer system that can be more easily maintained whilst being more efficient? Would they be able to sell on the unit for parts as they are so rare? Or is it just all smoke and mirrors from a unreliable technician that is leading them on, are the parts actually quite available?

Do you have a comparison video? We have a 200m2 apartment and want to replace our old gas boiler but don’t know which heat pump system to invest in. For example, Daiken or Vaillant.

Can you suggest can a mono block heat pump that can be directly connect to underfloor heating without the need for a hot water tank.

Very nice. A bit technical at moments, but the principal is explained very good! Question: I am thinking of using a heat pump boiler (which only runs during the day) for hotwater and in the night for supplying heat to our under floor heating. In this way I want to avoid that the central heat pump kicks on. Did you ever do anything like this?

Is it better to put in a 180L or a 300L cyclinder. I have 3 showers and 1 bath hopefully will have the GSHP integrated with PV it's 165m2 ?

Have you checked out the Energy Blade from Nuenta? Done a few of these and have found them to be pretty good, curious on your opinion ✌️

Helllloooo, I have a couple questions reg. heat pumps and how they work / can be set up. 1) More basic one, but when I've heard about heat pumps the general advice has always been to set a temperature and leave it there. This is obviously is not ideal given the natural way out bodies work is to expect a lower temperature at night (otherwise you will get poor sleep). As such, is it possible to set the temperature to say 20C in the day and 17 or 18C over night (or just off)? 2) How possible is it to link up a wood burner to the heating system. With our current system boiler we have the boiler and a back boiler wood burner feeding into a neutraliser, and then the rads and the coil for the hot water tank feed off the outlet from the neutraliser. This is perfect as we get carbon neutral heat for both hot water and radiators when using the wood burner. Is this still possible with a heat pump or is it likely to be incompatible for one reason or another? (if not then this may be a bit of a step backwards given the grid is not carbon neutral atm)

Which would you reccomend for a new build bungalow? Well insulated, airtight, mhrv and emitter is underfloor heating. Swaying between ashp which will give me over 5 scop and a gshp water to water on boreholes that has expected scop of over 8

Nice one Adam. I have read that where I live peak winter ground temperature at 1 meter deep can be below 7 Celsius. I can confirm this as I measure the temperature of water supply as the pipe enters the property. Makes one think twice regarding ground source hp.

Can you do a video on emitters? Interested to learn more about fan coils

Can you do a video about heat punps for just heating? (No hot water tank) I cant seem to find any information anywhere, im thinkimg of getting a heat pump but dont have anywhere for a hot water tank and will possibly be using a heat battery for hot water

Hi, are you only running the online courses now ? I did phone your office and left a message re in person training courses, I never heard back. Thanks

How do we access the new heat pump training? It's not on the courses website. Only the 1st 2.

Is this a promotion video or which unit is best.

Air to Air more efficient then heat pump. Added bonus of air conditioning which work great with solar power.

Question: I'm looking to install a heat pump system and was wondering if you ever did experiments with cascading two smaller heat pumps in a single system? My thinking is that you can use them staggered (let only one HP run until the minimum output requirement of the 2nd system is also met) to achieve an average low output of both, i.e. less noise and higher COP. This may need some extra plumbing to keep pump#2 hydraulically neutral, assuming pump#1 always starts first.

I'd love to get rid of my gas combi boiler for a heat pump system and also would put in solar panels and a home battery to help keep the electricity costs of this down. I'd really like one that could cool as well as heat - is the only option the mini-split style of air-to-air heat pumps? I don't think they're eligible for the government grant, which seems a bit mean. Are there other options?

This is from a heat source calculator for a house of my age , For every sq ft of living space, you need about 30 BTU of heating output. That means, for example, that for a 1,000 sq ft home, you would require a 30,000 BTU heat pump (that’s a 2.5-ton heat pump)., so my heat source pump for my house is 60000 but with a weight of 5 tonnes, so how is that going over my roof then

Our oil boiler is on its last legs. Tried some heat pump quotes and you need a up to date EPC survey to qualify for the £5k grant with no recommendation for extra insulation etc. despite planning permission for a loft conversion we would have to waste loads of money on loft insulation we will have to rip out after…. So now looking at just replacing the oil boiler with another guess what oil boiler. Government policy really makes so much sense not. If only they had a few decent engineers working in government departments and ministers who came from the professions they were in charge of the departments they ran they country would be running so much better!

Interesting content. Please can you confirm that air to air heat pumps qualify for reduced rate or zero VAT? Can their installation be funded by the BUS grant?

Love heat pumps . Think about installing water to air heat pump in Antarctic. Sounds inpossible but a huge heat source is the ocean at about minus one deg C . Could save an enormous amount of fuel with a cop of at least 3

Would love a vid on hydronic fan convectors. They seem like a great option for low temp heating and even a little cooling but info and reviews seems very sparse!

I love that everyone thinks there is one type of heat pump. When there has been at least one type, possibly two living in their kitchen for years.

Ground source heat pumps can only work in a very small number of properties - so this should have been pointed out - and that they cost a lot of money to install.

You did not mention the best of them all.. the ventilation-air to water heatpump. Like the NIBE S735. It's the beauty and the beast in one.

Can you please say AND capable instead of incapable.Unless thats what you mean.?

i dont like the underground lake for aquifers analogy, its more like a soaked sponge

If you're building a home and already digging trenches, why not put an air hose in the ground and feed it to a mini split?

@heatgeek why does it seem like ground source water-to-water heat pumps have a significantly lower COP/EER than do air-to-water heat pumps? And why do packaged direct expansion units have higher EER than water-to-air (hydronic fan coils)? What am I missing?

Anyone else Burning carrier bags in front of their heat pump to increase efficiency ? Just to balance out their "Net Zero"

Free, with free leccy for life 😂

Much prefer air-to-air heat pumps. Cooling is just as important to me as heating.

Geo all the way baby! We love geo. Oldest we’ve seen is 28 years years old. Still all original parts. Good geos are so reliable

Is it even remotely possible to replace a traditional Gas Boiler system that feeds a 15mm pipework and radiators with Air Source heat pump without ripping the entire house apart? I'd want to re-use as much of the incumbent system that is in place. Where's the best place to start? I want to avoid cowboys and sharks.

Check out that hair 😂

Very disappointed, I had expected to run a matrix of makers, brands, tech, redundancy, controls niceness and refrigerant.

i prefer gas

I think the technology is fascinating but I just can't see this ending well when the big changeover comes. We couldn't even get the smart meters right so what chance have we got with this. Most of these systems will be installed for free by the government. Installation teams with targets of 5 installations per week. Corners will obviously be cut and systems won't work right from day 1. It's going to be an absolute disaster.

All very very expensive to install. Maybe ok on new houses, but if you have a good gas boiler now ... stick with it. Basically, as mad as electric cars.

None of them.When its freezing cold ,no matter how much you magnify that temperature you don't get heat.Also i don't want all my floors ripped up to fit extra large semi warm pipes.

Easy answer no heat pump is best for you

None of them is the answer!!

how far down to ground source pipes running horizontal need to be ?