Thank you!! A true break down video!! Now i see why mines broke the bearings down with metal shavings, The small c-clip is totally gone. Would not have known there was one if not for your vid.Thanks again

Hi Jim, happy to hear the video was helpful. Two of the three spray tips working, the only hypothesis is a blockage in the tubing, elbow or nozzle. Blow a stream of compressed air through the bar without any nozzles to ensure it all ports are obstruction free. Then ensure each nozzle is clear. Sometimes the internals of the bars get corroded, in 2009 when I last checked BE bars were non-stainless and prone to corrosion, corrosion can be also be dislodged from non stainless heating coils.

Dude! Brilliant! Thanks for this video..it may have saved us $500!

Thanks for the heads up my friend. The bearings are rolling fine, there's a little more movement of the shaft than there used to be. so there is added vibration but I can live with that until they fail completely.I have the surface cleaner working perfectly again thanks!

Sounds like it was helpful, I still advise you head to your local dealers to test the various units with your machine.

Thank you sir

Notice in video that the O ring that was observed damaged on the inlet valve (at 3.39) this would contribute to leakage around the inlet valve stem and into the cavity resulting in reduced pressure at the nozzles. This seams to be the prime failure point of swivel. The O ring is part of a complete mechanical seal, so if the O ring fails it may mean that the seal faces may still be in good shape. The outer diameter of this O ring slides on the inside of the housing when the trigger is pulled.

Yes 225F is high, If i was able to reach that is another story, although i had 100f inlet at some jobs. I ordered the BER surface cleaner from the "laid down" catalog, the orings were buna on the original swivels , the replacements was viton. Thanks

If I remember right there is no access to the inner race of the bearings, so the design only leaves you with the option to apply a force to the shaft at the seal face end while the outer race of the bearing is supported against immovable object. With the rotating face being welded to the shaft, its a designed as if the bearing has failed its time to change the shaft as well.

The vibration possibly due to imbalance in the rotating shaft , bearing wear or both. This could wear out your seal faces prematurely.

The vitons have held up very well, remember you can heat water past 212F and still be water in the boiler and hoses, because it is above std. atmosphere, however I cant hit more than 100F rise without cuting my flow through the nozzles, I run 8 gpm with a 20" std. boiler with 4gph fuel setup

Sir you just saved me a lot of money! got mine torn apart and fixed in about an hour. I needed the O-ring replaced. Do you have a link to the replacement parts shown in the video?

Thank you Griffs services for the helpful vid! I have the BE Whirl away 24 that I replaced the the o rings on because water was shooting out of the by-pass hole. Oddly enough though when I did the repair it worked no more water coming out of the by-pass hole but only 2 of the three sprayer tips was working. I did not not observe any blockages . Can you advise?

What is the best way to remove the bearings from the spindle after you remove the c-clip?

where does the small snap ring go

What type of grease should i use for the bearings?

I have a shaft that was broken. Is it possible to remove the shaft itself and replace it?