been working well since installation

Thanks and send me that person's number, HAHA!

Thanks for noticing. Ya these systems are pretty quiet.

Thanks!

Thanks Jon. A nice benefit to doing DIY projects is the insight gained. It makes it possible to more easily troubleshoot and repair things down the road.

Thanks, and thanks to the power of video editing!

Congrats on your DIY AC system installation and thanks for comment.

Thanks for the comment and sharing your experience. I am happy with this unit as well. I may install the larger 4-5ton unit in another house at some point.

Thanks. Instead of using the pre-charged line set you can reuse existing lines with this system. They would need to be vacuumed and refringent may possibly need to be added to the system to make up for the line length. The unit comes with special line extensions that would be added to your existing lines to make the connection.

goodstuff

Congrats on your ac install project. Yes I found the manipulation of the line set a bit challenging as well. It was a bit difficult to line things up just right so the connections threaded properly. Of course it is very important have the threaded connectors line up perfectly to avoid stripping the threads and to ensure a proper connection. You may need to make adjustments in the line set further away from the connection end to have the play required to manipulate the connector positioning.

The update. I finished my install today with the quick connect line set. It all seems to be working; no leaks, drips, or errors as best as I can see. I had my thermostat plan ready and because of the gas furnace, I was debating about what to do with the W (heat signal) at the heat pump. As it turns out Mr. Cool, now calls W1, 'D' for Defrost signal, so it goes to the W of the furnace. I Programmed my new Nest Gen 3 Thermostat for the dual-fuel configuration (I did the Nest thermostat because it knew dual-fuel and had the option for controlling it. The downside with Nest is the need for constant internet as it doesn't trigger the gas furnace on (and shut down the heat pump) until it is told what the outside temp is from Google. I'm OK with it, but as a backup, I have an iO-DFK kit with a physical outdoor thermostat that can be mounted inside the heat pump, in case a winter night goes sideways with the internet. Anyway, my installation is finished and all looks A-OK.

So as a final follow up, I'm just making everything look tight and neat now. I need to find some of that Insulating tape others use with the line set's bare parts leading to the compressor. Of particular excitement was testing the Mr. Cool HP in heating mode. The compressor blew out very cold the air and it was 74f outside, 77 inside going to 79. In front of the compressor exhaust, it had to be about 50F! I've never experienced that before. SO...this one is a thumbs up big time! My advice; be prepared for the line set struggles and absolutely finger tighten the quick-connect halfway before using the wrench. Also don't wrestle the solder joints, just the tubing. It also looks like the small quick connect shows about 1 to 2 threads to spare where the larger shows none. Torque wrench to grunts; the 3/8" tube; 50N is a grunt, the 3/4" 70N is tongue to the side, butt-clench grunnnntt.

Just an addon ... Lefty Loosey, Righty Titey but on the compressor, the connectors are pointing down so with the quick connect coming from the bottom, it's just the opposite Beware of that.

@@cbsites4127 Thanks for sharing your install experience and congrats on your AC install

Thanks for the insights as they are much appreciated. Perhaps I should have mentioned specifically in the video but this unit's condensation line goes under the house elevation and then comes back up above ground to drain directly outside. So there is always water in the low point in the drain line assembly that would function as a trap and it is not attached to sewer so no issues there. great tip on drain vent height i will double check this one. I did add a surge protector to the condenser circuit after filming for the video as it seems like solid insurance. I am a bit concerned about the refrigerant levels in the system and debating vacuuming out and refilling by weight as you describe. Thanks for the tape tip and thanks again.

@@MrKistelkeep in mind, 2" deep u-trap should be installed between the coil drain connection and t-vent, otherwise airhandler will suck non-filtered+non-conditioned air in through the t-vent and airflow inside drain pipe will prevent coil from proper draining, because through the same hole there will be water flow and air flow.

@@airbluehvac thanks

Good to know, thanks for sharing.

thanks for the insight

O wow, I thought I looked at the blower and to me it didn't seem easily removeable. Good to know it is. I was lucky with the supply side intake. I was able to use the existing set up the old handle used. It was a foam box set-up with metal framing.

This system was installed based on the manufacture instructions for this specific system. My understanding is the condenser unit, the air handler coil, and the line set come with refrigerant in them before installation.

@@MrKistel they got you. Think about it honestly. If the air handler coil came pre charged (wouldn't it have been leaking before you open the valves there.) It only started leaking once you opened up the valves at the condenser where it's charged with refrigerant. If you have a 30ft lineset and need 3 additional feet to make your entire lineset length 33ft does the 3ft come pre charged with refrigerant from Mr cool with there quick connect fittings. No this is just a way they get people like you (DIYer). the mass majority of professionals don't use them. Home depot special. Have a good one 👍🏻

@@SOUTHCO4ST this is one of the dumber things I've read today which is saying something considering this is the KZfaq comment section. They got him how? They gain nothing by selling bad systems. It started leaking refrigerant after he opened the lines? Whaaaat!? It's almost like the a coils was defective and when he released the refrigerant from the lines it started leaking out.

It is very quite, I did not do anything in post production to reduce sound from the condenser.

Things have been working well with the HVAC system shown in the video

Worked well for this application.

thank you for your insight Richard

I was able to reuse the existing power as it ran my previous system. Best of luck with your project and thanks for commenting.

I believe each connection had an unique recommended torque value according to the product manual.

Thanks for sharing. Hoping your system performs well.

System is working great. Have had it operational now to have gone through both cold and warm months. Heat and AC seem to function as intended.

The air handler and air condenser units have two separate and independent circuits.

Based on my experiences up to this point I would likely do the same again. I am not real familiar with the duel fuel options however in this region I think electric the heat pump works well for both heating and cooling.

Different brand thermostats will have different wire configuration and programing. You will have to verify with the instructions of your particular unit. The documentation provided with the air condenser and air handler should explain the wiring process between the indoor and outdoor unit in more detail than I can provide in this comment.

The indoor unit is 100% all the time it has dip switches to change the fan speed

i will defer to EP1CNELOSON's remark

Thinking about doing a 4 to 5 ton unit this year perhaps as well. The vendor made things right regarding the issue shown. It was a smooth process.

It provides the motivation not to drop it.

@@wardhall6595 😂😂😂 I love it. My feet get hot with boots on lol

In the bottom of the air handler there is a space for a filter

I went to a local metal supply shop and they happen to have the aluminum square pieces in the cuts offs section. Worked perfect for me.

@@MrKistel thakk you, ended ordering some online...proably a waste of money since won be able to return them if I need so

Thanks for the insight.

Thanks for the insights John. Do you mind sharing what surge protector you are currently using?

@@MrKistel Seems youtube doesn't like it when I post links. I got the Mars 83905 from KTool

John, it is not shown in the video but the evaporator coil was filled with nitrogen during the solder repair process. So I assume the nitrogen is in the system. Not sure if nitrogen is much better then air considering air is mostly nitrogen.

@@MrKistel oh right. In that case, after repair it should’ve been vacuumed down to under 500 microns and then refilled/service valves opened. Nitrogen is inert so there won’t be any scaling from oxygen in the air when he brazed/patched the coil. Otherwise, that scale can clog the TXV, especially with no filter drier.

@@John-Paul732 Yes. That is my main question about this great project. With DIY, manufacturer support is critical.

Thanks for the tip. However, I believe the air handler coil in this system is supposed to come with refrigerant "pre-charged" in it as well as the condenser unit.

@@MrKistel aah good point. Usually the lines are only nitrogen charged, so you can hook the lines up and pull vacuum, before opening the service ports and charging the system. Not sure if you can pull vacuum through the service ports if the evap coil is also charged

How exactly do you pull a vacuum and leak check it for under $100? You'll need gauges, a vacuum pump, and a micron gauge...

@@Holler_Rat I never invested in a micron gauge and I've installed 10 units that have run flawless the past 5 years. I just let my lil harbor freight pump vacuum it down for an hour straight and then I let the system sit for 3 hours to see if I have any leaks. Works like a charm.

In my case I chose to run new lines even though I potentially could have reused my old lines. Part of my reasoning was the age and potential degradation of the old lines. My lines were approximately 14 years old.

@@MrKistel Thank you! But I'm not sure the need for new lines unless they are damaged somehow. For me it would be very difficult to put new lines going up to the attic and down to the garage, will also need to drill holes on the stucco. However, I didn't know that metal pipes degrade over time. Hopefully, someone can answer my initial question about gas line width.

I removed the metal mesh frame you mentioned and replaced it with a 20"X20"X1" insert filter. The basic filters you find at most hardware and home stores.

@@MrKistel Thanks. Your unit must be a smaller size, or the hole in your plenum below the air handler would be smaller. Though 20x20x1 would cover the coil area, it would drop right down in to the plenum for me because its opening is much bigger than that.

the system I purchased came with a warranty and it was honored in my situation.

@@MrKistel Okay thank you

@@MrKistel Did you make a warranty claim for the leak in the evap - losing the 410? What caused that leak, or did you find out. I noticed you did move the coil for ease of installation. Is it possible the damage to the coil was done then? The leak makes me very nervous-very hesitant to purchase if they did not make a warranty adjustment of some kind for the defect.

@Ward Hall same here. I won't buy one until I find out if mr cool honored the warranty and sent him a new one.

The unit was purchased as "scratch and dent " model and the coil was pierced on arrival. The warranty was honored in any case so no big deal.

I don't think it is designed to be mounted in that sort of orientation.

Actually I called several local HVAC companies. Most seemed unfamiliar and not interested in working on this system. I ended up finding a guy who was familiar with mini-split installs and he was the one that help top off the system.

When they didn't charge you 3 to 4k to install it, they won't service it.

@@thomazz1976 Its beyond that most companies treat service as service. The red flag with these are we know its a non professional installation. Its more of a liability than anything as he who touches it last owns it. There are lots of shade tree or even very poor installed systems most won't service also. If I walk up on one where basically everything is wrong no I won't touch that ethier. As for my company I don't service things I don't have easy access to parts or support. My suggestion to some of you having a hard time finding someone tell tell you'll accept a taillight warranty and you might get someone

I agree with Daniel. My dad and brother are both HVAC contractors and there is nothing difficult about this system. The fact that it is installed by a homeowner does not increase their liability. All techs service thousands of units without knowing who installed it or who has touched it after install. Charging a system is easy and I would be floored it someone said no. We are also not working with R22 here. A good tech should be capable of a few simple repairs and charging the system. If not, I question their ability as a tech.

@@jonsaircond8520 Besides the electrical there's absolutely nothing that a homeowner can do it wrong as long as he or she follows the directions. There are even videos on what to purchase and how to vacuum the system professionally. Just because a so called professional didn't do it, don't be mad at the homeowner. As so called professional had to learn it somehow and so are the homeowners that don't want to pay these over inflated installation prices.

In my case I simply replaced the old air handler with the new one. The old one had a 240 volt supply and I reused it.

This unit was advertised and sold with cosmetic defects. The vender advertised full warranty regardless of the blemishes. It turned out the air handler coil was damaged on arrival. Although it caused some installation headaches, the vendor honored the warranty and made things right. I sort of anticipated higher risk of potential defect purchasing the "scratch and dent" system. I do not take issue with the vendor nor the manufacturer for this situation as the warranty was honored. The system has been running great ever since.

The vendor the equipment was purchased made good on the situation. It was a pretty simple process and was made right in my opinion.

They are pre vacd and sealed line sets.

I believe the outdoor condenser unit can be used with other air handlers.

The system operates on 240volts. I believe the condenser is on a 30amp 240 circuit and the air handler is running on a 15amp 240 feed. The air handler would need a larger amperage circuit if the emergency heating element were also installed.

The leak was in cracked solder joint. The unit arrived damaged, and the vender made it right. It was quicker to make the repair then to wait for the warranty process however.

@@MrKistel sure it wasnt you tightening the lines without holding the valve ?

I am working on editing video showing the installation of the larger version of this system and the top looks similar. I will try to incorporate visuals into it that show the top area better. The opening for airflow is rectangular, roughly half the area of the top dimensions of the air handler itself. I believe the manual shows the dimensions and can be found online.

The warranty was honored. Thanks for watching and the comment.

The old coil was pretty nasty. Figured best just to replace the entire system.

The overall process is relatively straight forward. It comes down to the unique variables associated with your install location and so on. If you are replacing an existing system you likely have power in place for both the condenser and air handler. If so this eliminates running new circuits. The rest depends on how simple or complicated it will be to run the line set and connect the ductwork. I like the system and actually recently installed the bigger 5-ton system at another location. I will be posting a video showing that install soon.

Appreciate your thoughts, thanks for sharing

Wow that is a big space. Awesome to hear your AC and heat system is working well. Thanks for sharing.

Ham Shack? You are close enough to me to join in our net if you have HF - 80 meters. 🙂 3.961 - every night at 16:45hrs.

@@garysmith8455 Thanks Gary I'll see if I can join. Been doing a lot of FT8 lately

see the video description area

A bit of clarity: So this system was purchased as a "scratch and dent" unit but sold under warranty. The vender made things right and honored the warranty as advertised. The overall install ended up being more complicated because of the initial defect but I assumed that a possible outcome when purchasing a scratch and dent version. The unit shown in video has worked great since install and I am considering installing another one in another house.

Thanks for the insight

No this system did not require the aux heat component for the milder climate region.

Thanks for the comment. Glad to hear you have been sent replacement units when you had issues. Mind if I ask what the symptoms you observed that pointed to a failed compressor? Did the outside unit fail abruptly at once or get worse over time? Did both air condensers fail in the same fashion? Thanks. And yes we did close the valves once we noticed the leak in the evaporator coil.

@@MrKistel The first unit started exhibiting intermittent P5 error codes (overcurrent protection) and then one day I happened to be outside nearby it and it was making a terrible noise... I pulled off the cover just to make sure it wasn't something obvious or loose. I shut the unit off from the thermostat and as it was winding down, it sounded like gravel was inside the compressor. While ramping down it threw an H7 (driver out of step) and never started again. The second unit worked fine for a few months but then we got the intermittent P5 code again. Mr Cool sent us a new outdoor control board that they said had updated firmware on it that addresses this newly-recognized issue; and it did... unit ran great right up until a week ago. Unit just stopped working one day and when I pulled the cover, I was looking at a PH code. I swapped out the inverter driver board (a different board from the controller... there are three large circuit cards in these things!) from the previous unit -- which they let me keep for spare parts -- as the service manual suggested, but that didn't fix it. Unit tries to start (fans come on), but right when the inverter drive board tries to start the compressor, it just won't turn over and it flashes the PH code and shuts down. So we are again assuming compressor failure. These units are re-badged Gree Flexx units and Gree is the largest manufacturer of ACs in the world so I'm confident they aren't garbage; I'm just hoping we've had bad luck. I can say Mr Cool's tech support via email has been extremely responsive and warranty support has been great. I'm strongly considering vacuuming down the lines between the condenser and evaporator this time just to make absolutely sure there is no moisture or non-condensables present. There is enough refrigerant in the outdoor unit for up to 25' of standard lineset, so I'm comfortable pulling a vacuum on the lines even though they are pre-charged. I'm sure our case is isolated; this can't happen to everyone or Mr Cool will go broke!! :-)

@@hedge605 thanks for you insight. For the repair I show in the video we added refrigerant to compensate for what was lost. The HVAC tech did this by simply watching pressure levels on gauges , he said he added about 3 pounds of R410a. I mentioned concern about potential remaining air in the system and he said it should not be a problem. He said if it was he would see it on his pressure gauges. I am hopeful he is right. My handler coil was sent to me damaged with a breach. So no refrigerant was in it. Additional refrigerant was lost once lines were open and before leak was detected. So I assume the coil was full of air.

@@MrKistel Yeah, I would assume the same... which is not good, at all... sorry. Moisture is the biggest killer (from what I read online) by which the liquid-air separator supposedly helps with (and is installed in the unit, although I can't find anything about a filter dryer being installed). Cross your fingers and hope for the best! Please ping me back here if you experience an issue, because Mr Cool is convinced this is not wide-spread. Note too (to your benefit) that precise charge amount is not that important on these types of inverter systems because there is an accumulator that keeps excess refrigerant to be able to meet different cooling and different heating demands which depend on all kinds of things like indoor and outdoor temperatures, etc. The system will watch the temperatures (to deduce head pressure), compressor output temperature, suction and liquid line temperatures, and use that along with ambient temperature to keep sub-cooling and super-heat in check.

@@hedge605 I believe the installation manual says to install a filter dryer when installing the system using a traditional line-set method. I guess this is when custom lines are run and vacuumed. Wonder if it would be worth trying add one on my system now in retrospect? any thoughts?

Thanks for watching. I discussed with the vender I purchased the unit from and they worked out an arrangement which I felt was fair

@@MrKistel Thanks!

was purchased at a local HVAC supply house

@@MrKistel what type of material is the plenum box that it can support the weight? I just bought a system and need the same setup with bottom side return connection

Thanks for sharing and please let us know what you figure out and how you proceed.

@@MrKistel no reply as yet, tried several forms of communication all morning.

@@MrKistel still no response from mrcool - day 5. 96 degrees in house.

@@tradewinds8607 Keep us posted. Having some kind of support is important

I also have the e3 error code. My system never started. Did the installation, made sure there were no leaks, opened valves, etc. I have left messages and emails for a month with no reply.

240 volt is correct

@@MrKistel and no neutral? All the electronics in the air handler work fine?

Maybe try to check the power usage at different times when it is off and see if it fluctuates. I believe there is an occasional heating process that can activate from time to time. I assume this would happen more in cold weather.

@@MrKistel I setup my system with a MrCool gas furnace and a separate coil. Usually it is sold with the air handler you used not my duel fuel setup. How much refrigerant was in the air handler coil you installed? It should say on the data plate. I'm trying do some diagnostics because the outdoor units is pulling 21 or 22 amps each cycle, which is way over the Rated Load Amps (RLA) of 16 on the compressor data plate. I'm trying to make sure I have the same refrigerant charge as what the default system you installed has. Thanks!!

@@mtbphil168 Hmm, I am not sure exactly and don't have immediate access to the data plate.

The system shown installed in the video is doing great

The system consisted of the condenser, the air handler, and the line set. The condenser came with about 10lbs of r410a refrigerant and the evaporator coil and line set each should have come pre-charged as well. The problem was the coli in the air handler came with a hole so presumably most refrigerant escape from the air handler before I ever installed anything. Once everything was connected and the pre-charged lines were open additional refrigerant leaked out through the small hole for about 8 hours before the system was closed off. So at that point the evap coil was refilled with refrigerant from the lineset condenser and then some more was lost. When the Air handler coil was repaired it was filled with nitrogen. Then more refrigerant was added to the entire closed system. So I would anticipate there is still at least Nitrogen in the system. It seems to be operating fine regardless at this point. So my overall question is do you think the systems is ok operating as it is assuming there might be some nitrogen in it? It seems like it would be very costly to add fresh refrigerant to refill the entire system.

@@MrKistel Depends on how much is in the system. Its a all or nothing if it is contaminated you remove all and recharge. More than likely you don't have much. Compressors don't like squishing stuff that doesn't condense from vapor to liquid

@@jonsaircond8520 Thanks for your insight

Never heard of pre charged lines set and coil, needed to vacuum down system before you opened valves. Vacuum would have revealed leak. Once air is in system, all 410 needs to be removed, vacuumed down, then charged fresh. Won’t benefit to just adding 410 after it contamination. Good install just missed the last step👍🏻

Larger diameter line is the gas line and the smaller diameter line is the liquid line. They need to be sized to spec for the size system you are installing.

@@robschannel9229 ok thanks for that info. I'm gonna educate myself more on that. Thank you

This is fkn comical

@@JuanZ-ClipZ it sure is. I just learned about gaseous and liquid states and their velocities and howif they are not properly sized the compressor is at risk of burnout. I'm building a 4000 Sq ft home and majority of the work is done by myself. I have wired it for control 4 and Luton mix, did all plumbing, framing and will be doing my own finishing. I also repair electronics at a component level. In my life iv learned to ask questions, not be ashamed to educate myself. We all need to learn from one another. What's comical is that you had nothing positive to add. Please just relax and help others if you can and doing so will give you so much joy. Peace

@@paulgill7222 Shaddup

Good insight. I used rubber washers to separate the two dissimilar metals.

he'll be lucky to have this thing last 20 years, the stainless bolts will last 2x longer, so basically nothng to worry about.

It was a "scratch and dent" unit sold with some cosmetic defects.

thanks for the insight

Not if using the pre-charged line sets.

@@MrKistel has the unit been great so far , I’ve installed 2 mini splits by Mr cool and they work great here in Texas.

@@dhjrblue9807 Yes and I am actually getting ready to publish a video showing my installation of the 4-5ton system for a different house.

So adding refrigerant has been a mystery to me. I have had three different techs out and none were clear on the appropriate way to do so but each tried there own method. The way I see the problem is that the inverter condenser is constantly fluctuating pressures based automated operation. So a traditional tech just wants to hook up gauges and add refrigerant based on the pressures reading. This probably works well enough for most traditional ac condensers that operate at 100% on when they are running, their pressure readings should be constant. Simply adding gauges to a running inverter condenser (operating normally) will not give you reliable pressures to determine refrigerant "levels." My guess is you have to figure out how to operate the condenser in a full throttle mode but I am not clear how you do that. The last tech I had was able to get the system into a high output operation using the dip switches in the condenser (we found some maintenance document buried in the internet that described this). In this mode it operations more aggressively however things still fluctuate. He felt he got solid enough pressure readings from this to determine the system was low and he arbitrarily added 1 pound of r-410a. System seems to be running fine but I am still not clear if I have a proper amount of refrigerant in it.

@@MrKistel yep, that is what I'm thinking also. I asked Ingram's about an override to allow the system to start but they said there wasn't any. I guess since you don't get an E3 you're probably fine. I tried digging around the internet and also search under Gree but nothing much to help with how to startup and recharge successfully. Something about some special cable is needed to troubleshoot. Let me know if you can share the document you found. Thanks.

@@tradewinds8607 send an email to the email address shown in the about section of this youtube channel

@@MrKistel looks like comments are getting sensored and deleted.

@@MrKistel the issue is that all the refrigerant has leaked out from the valve above the compressor. What seems like a blob of solder on top of the valve pop up leaving a hole for the refrigerant to leak out.

Adam, thanks for checking in. The system has been working well. I would like to think it is considerably more efficient than my previous more traditional HVAC system, however I have not been able to monitor energy usage in enough detail to compare. I do watch energy usage through a "Sense" energy monitor, and you can tell the system runs using different amounts of power at different times depending on AC or Heat demands. At a high load the system draws just over 2000 Watts if I recall correctly.

The system shown in this video has done well since the publication of this video.

When a system is recovered is the refrigerant that is removed able to be reused in addition to what ever new refrigerant needs to be added? Or is the old refrigerant considered contaminated because of the potential air in the system? I am not clear on the understanding of where the air goes in a situation like this. Thanks

@@MrKistel air and moisture will contaminate a refrigeration system, if a recovery tank was clean, and refrigerate it self is not contaminated it could be put back into a system after repair, but its always better to recharge with new especially r410a because its a mixture refr. and a mixture leaks at a different rate.

Thanks for sharing. To clarify... When you mentioned the equipment not being good compared to the stuff when you started in the 90s, are you referring to this type of equipment shown in the video are generally referring to all modern-day equipment?

Not sure but this unit has been running great. I just installed a larger version in another house and will be posting that video soon.

I think I see him use that pipe as a handle @4:16 in the video, so you might be right.

@@trace9130 he thought it was a pony tail on a girl lol a Love Handle

working as intended, no further issue other then what was addressed in the video

The system came with an air handler (inside blower) and an air condenser (the outside unit). It functions as a heat pump.

Then the air condenser will run in cold months and hot months. The air handler will push forced heat from the air condenser through the house with out having a standalone heat pump unit?

The lines come prefilled with refrigerant with this system.

I regret not pulling a wattage used reading on the old traditional AC System before installing this new one. So I do not know the power consumption use of the old system to compare with the new. The inverter condenser with the new system throttles itself routinely so it is never using the same amount of power. For example, right now it is running and using about 1800 watts however I have seen it read near 2300 watts at higher demand times (i have the settings set to max output by the way). The old system was always running full throttle likely using considerably more power than this unit at its peak usage periods. .

Yes the line set comes "pre-charged" with R-410a refrigerant.

Thanks for watching and sharing your experience. I am thinking about installing this same system somewhere else and was debating on whether to consider using a traditional line-set vs the pre-charged. For this system, I am using a typical off-the-shelf thermostat and had to go into the programming to configure it to work properly with the Mr. Cool. It was not the simplest thing to figure out but works fine once configured right.

The duct work could condensate if it is not insulated and create water problems.

This ac system runs off 240volt supply

@@MrKistel Thank you so much I'll get one of this units for my house.

@@Themastermind-bc1oq Separate breakers for outdoor unit and indoor unit on the Mr Cool. Most inverter heat pumps send power to the condenser with just one breaker and then from the condenser there's another 14 gauge wire set providing 240V, Ground, and a red wire for serial communications between the indoor and outdoor unit.