Why Do Climbers Love Deadlifts? w/

Рет қаралды 64,794

Күн бұрын

The original "Top 12 Worst Exercises" video: • Top 12 WORST Exercises...
THANK YOU to Tom Randall ‪@WideBoyz‬ and the Lattice crew ‪@LatticeTraining‬ well as ‪@EmilAbrahamsson‬ lending your time and knowledge for this video!
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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context and Overview
00:41 Anatomy and What People Think These Exercises Do
02:21 Coach's Recommendations (Tom Randall / Lattice)
05:55 V14/15 Climber's Recommendations (Emil Abrahamsson)
09:09 Jason's Breakdown of These Exercises for Climbers
11:39 How to Deadlift with Michael Gaspari, DPT
14:28 Deadlift Reps/Sets Recommendations
15:22 How to Bench Press
19:02 Bench Press Reps/Sets Recommendations
19:55 Closing Statements
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 124
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/d...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
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Пікірлер: 180

@RFrecka Жыл бұрын

Imagine going to school to obtain a doctorate and still perpetuating that "climbers don't want big heavy legs". As if training strength will instantly give you a bodybuilder's quads. Have you ever put significant time into building muscle? Nobody gets to the size you're implying by accident. It might be worth considering how to better communicate some of the information here before making another series of "We were wrong" videos..again..

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Definitely didn’t mean to imply that you’ll get bodybuilder quads just by picking up a few weights; in fact, in our last video we have an entire section dedicated to debunking just that - the myth that climbers will get “too big” from strategic resistance training. However, it’s still possible to put on a noticeable amount of muscle mass in your legs relatively easily (for many people) with regular training, and that’s something some climbers don’t want. It depends on your priorities, diet, training, and genetics of course. If your goal is not about maximizing climbing performance, then obviously you won’t care about a few unnecessary pounds in your legs. That’s not the case for performance-oriented climbers, though. And sidenote: this isn’t a “we were wrong” video. None of this information conflicts with the original “12 worst exercises” video. -Emile

@RFrecka Жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta The problem I continue to have with your videos is that you're constantly misspeaking, and then having to make a rebuttal. While that's absolutely part of the learning experience, now we run into the issue where you have a video with information that is mischaracterizing topics, and one that (usually) does a good job running quality control on the previous video. It's not like you're deleting the original video after creating a "we didn't mean to imply" rebuttal, it still sticks around for anyone to watch, with viewers not necessarily watching the follow-up videos that add nuance. When you're putting out information, it seems like you're simply missing a vital aspect of the scientific method, peer-review.

@personperson2380 Жыл бұрын

@RFrecka1 respectfully, what are you *talking* about? how is it that you can pose a critique of the video, receive a rebuttal, then act as if the rebuttal didn't happen while you move the goalposts for what you're looking for out of the channel? I'm sorry to be the one to tell you this, but "didn't mean to imply" is likely polite for "what you've concluded from the video isn't the conclusion we were intending to draw people to." In my eyes, what you've done here is interpret the video in the least charitable way possible and then demand that they retool how the information is presented to suit your bad faith engagement. Also, peer review? They aren't *performing* scientific study, they are creating educational content for the internet. As with all pop-science content, it's up to you to engage critically with those sources and draw your own conclusion. This is like writing a letter to Neil DeGrasse Tyson demanding he peer review episodes of Cosmos. It's just not how that works.

@hellfish2309 Жыл бұрын

@@RFrecka also consider he’s negotiating against the popularity in climbing that leg mass regardless of how functional is more detrimental to training progress in climbing, with proclimbers like Magnus M out there telling stories about dudes using wheelchairs to cut leg mass: I’m not here to encourage or discourage that popular emphasis, but rather to highlight the landscape of athletes in his audience and in climbing

@RFrecka Жыл бұрын

@@hellfish2309 I agree that there's definitely a longevity versus performance discussion to be had here. Do I think climbers can train to have some, or all of both worlds (performance/longevity in sport)? I believe so, as the level of strength for performance often resembles greater than any requirement for more generalized activities. What I do come to expect of healthcare providers (as HB is leveraging credentials here to become an authority), is a little more foresight in content creation for the public, including the language included. Can they address EVERYTHING? No, but can they aspire to cover the basics? I've come to expect it from HCWs. In terms of critical feedback, in my opinion, these two videos (with the second meant to compliment the other mentioned at the beginning), could have very easily been one video, with the necessary nuance included here being included the first time. This is my point. It's clear that HB is planning their videos, and it's something that I personally believe could be a higher priority in their process/production. To HB's credit they have been receptive to feedback in the past, and I expect that their evolution can benefit the community should they continue to do so.

@SammyMakepeace Жыл бұрын

My general rule of thumb is.. there's more to life than climbing. I want to be fit and able in all sorts of situations that require physicality, whether that's at work (labourer), on hikes, on runs, swimming, climbing, moving furniture with my fam or friends. I don't want to get to an age where things start hurting before they should and to me that means working everything at least a bit

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

There is?? You sure about that? Our motto is Train Climb Send Repeat. I don't know where hiking, running, and swimming fits in there... That would be way too wordy... ;) jk. That's a good point! It's nice to be healthy in many other areas and that fits our section on goals. It sounds like weight training would certainly fit your goals!

@csn583 6 ай бұрын

Can't climb if you can't get to the wall!

@LatticeTraining Жыл бұрын

Great video!! Thanks for having us 💪

@smockytubers1188 Жыл бұрын

Huge + for Tom pointing out the "motivation" part. A professor of mine used to say his most common question from students year after year was "What's the best exercise?" and his answer would always be "The one you'll actually do."

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

That's a great answer! An exercise doesn't serve much purpose if you don't do it :)

@DekarNL Жыл бұрын

This is why I just do some squats, push ups and pull ups at home. Might not be best but it's the ones I will do at home consistently.

@MapWryte Жыл бұрын

This channel is a climbing public service. I greatly appreciate the consideration you give to all of your topics.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the kind words! We both appreciate it!

@autumn_k Жыл бұрын

One of the major reasons I watch this channel is that the information is presented in a way that empowers viewers to make informed decisions rather than presenting the gospels of training. When I watched the worst exercises video, my take away wasn't that we absolutely should never do those exercises, but rather we should consider what we actually get out of them, why we're doing them, and whether alternatives may generally be better for climbing-specific training. I know for myself, training is very particular. I'm competing against my 23-year-old self (because I've decided as part of my midlife crisis that I want to climb harder than I've ever climbed before). Back then I had male levels of testosterone, I weighed 30+kg less, I had way more muscle, and had way better recovery. Now, at forty, having medically transitioned gender and having been quite sedentary for nearly five years, I have to train way smarter than I did as a kid. I have to heavily prioritize what I choose to train. I have to be smart about how I go about that training. And I have to actually measure the effects of that training over time. As a result, that worst exercises video helped me put some things into perspective for sure. It's not just about what exercises I do, but how I approach training overall and how I think about connecting off-the-wall training to actual climbing performance. I will say, though, for specific exercises I picked up from this channel, the inverted row is my favourite. It's easy to incorporate into my training and modify, it seems to translate well into the sort of bouldering and climbing I prefer, and it's a movement I can use to focus on correcting certain bad habits on the wall (e.g. not engaging my back and shoulders properly, fighting and straining unnecessarily against movements).

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Thanks so much! That is exactly what we're hoping people get from these videos, so that's great to hear. Definitely a big inverted row fan too! I like other rows as well, but inverted is just so simple, fun, and adjustable with a pair of rings (or whatever you have). -Emile

@yScribblezHD Жыл бұрын

I like Emil's advice a lot, in my personal experience I go through phases of being hyper motivated to climb, not being very motivated, and being motivated but feeling like my body needs a break. In the latter two cases, I find even if I'm not motivated to climb I can be very motivated to incorporate antagonist training, or just hit the gym regularly. I think that's a very good way to maintain and develop new strengths while waiting for your climbing bits to feel energized and motivated.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

It's great to listen to your body and it seems like you are doing a great job of doing that!

@kangur.i.skalka Жыл бұрын

Unability to climb hard happens when emotions are down. When someone tries to take me out of flow zone by scaring me so I could believe in their excuses. "Don't do that", "that move is injurable". Some gym climbers in order to eliminate competition tries manipulation, so you will believe and it will stop you, so they can get upperhand.

@Dave1507 Жыл бұрын

@@kangur.i.skalka If that's how the people in your gym are, find a new one!

@iain_nakada Жыл бұрын

@@kangur.i.skalka Sorry but, wow you climb in a weird gym. I've yet to meet a climber who didn't want to see me succeed on a proj. Go tell them they're doing climbing wrong! XD

@6996Gunslinger Жыл бұрын

switching up exercises is what makes you stronger once youre a master of your most important exercises your muscles dont get enough stimulation and you benefit from switching them for a short time

@gball8466 Жыл бұрын

One of the best reasons to deadlift, imo, is to teach people what giving 100% really feels like. A lot of climbers have never really tried as hard as they can, even if they think they have. But a deadlift at or near your limit: there is no bullshitting it. You have to give it everything, and because of the very clear top position that is a successful lift, there isn't wiggle room to make excuses. Learning how to try hard is a skill and I think deadlifts can be part of learning that skill. Also, being an overall strong human never goes out of style.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Motivation and teaching your body how to handle 'try hard' situations is certainly a big benefit! Thanks for sharing.

@SammyMakepeace Жыл бұрын

Last one for sure! Strength training (done right) has a direct correlation to joint health and as someone whose parents are weak before their time, I will not forget that as I go through life and its changes

@Mike-oz4cv Жыл бұрын

I’ve had so many overload/overuse injuries, I’m scared of going 100%. True one rep max deadlifts are just one of the things I’d rather not risk. But I agree that simply picking up twice your body weight from the floor still feels amazing.

@stitch3163 Жыл бұрын

I really got a lot out of your “Top 12 Worst Exercises for Climbers” video, Jason. This was a great addendum to that video. Big thanks to you, Tom Randall, Emil and Michael for this one!

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Thank you! We appreciate your feedback :) And yeah it was fun working with everyone! They are all great people.

@TheEndorphene Жыл бұрын

Great to see the colabs with Lattice & Emile :)

@UnicycleSoul Жыл бұрын

Man this channel is a breath of fresh air. Instead of just peddling your own opinions, you broaden everyones knowledge by inviting others to share their perspective as well. Absolutely amazing.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing that feedback! Glad to hear it is well received

@nicolasburkhard Жыл бұрын

I do incorporate some strength training into my weekly schedule. Like Emil said - it makes me feel stronger and more “connected” overall, which ultimately translates into a better climbing performance.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Glad that you find it helps boost your climbing!

@andrewadams530 Жыл бұрын

Bro ngl the fact that Emil could lift both his friends on that ladder when showing off his dl strength is low key insanely impressive. Idk how much they weigh each but that was pretty amazing to watch. Also love his videos! Thanks for the info Hooper!

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Haha right?! So strong and so creative. The bench setup was also fun imo.

@EmileModesitt Жыл бұрын

His strength is only exceeded by his humbleness :)

@camran3547 Жыл бұрын

I’m currently incorporating higher rep (8-15reps) DL & bench into my climbing, increasing frequency during general preparedness/hypertrophy phases to build muscle, and then scaling back in later phases where I train movements more specific to climbing for lower reps/strength when closer to a time that I want to express maximal climbing ability (for example a trip).

@zacharylaschober Жыл бұрын

One aspect of the deadlift folks seem to get wrong is simply moving the bar vertically point A to point B. This seems obvious, but if you’re shifting every joint to maintain this textbook back and shoulder posture and yet having to move the bar anywhere but directly upward you are limiting your strength. There are endless cues, such as the bar against the shins, which people will interrupt sets to correct on, but if the bar is no longer moving upward point A to point B, if the position disadvantages the prime movers, if this doesn’t relieve unnecessary strain or place the strain against larger muscle groups, the suggestion is not generally worthwhile. Was in the demonstration by Michael. All of the cues and information is correct, but with such a light weight for him he doesn’t have to be incredibly engaged, is able to talk and hold positions, and can easily correct as the bar shifts around his knees and comes to the upper end of the movement. Do deadlifts at a reasonable weight, video directly from the side to watch the end of the bar move, and correct from there. Also, isometric midthigh deadlifts might teach you exactly how much force you can put through your body.

@jackfecteau8245 Жыл бұрын

Adding some additional nuance to the conversation from my perspective. Lifting heavy weights is an entirely separate hobby for me, so it's hard for me to shun the deadlift to avoid growing big legs. Plus my girlfriend likes my legs :) I also play baseball and softball, so the deadlift allows me to effectively train power, explosiveness, and speed. The deadlift has other benefits that all should consider. DL in moderation (significantly safer variations, like trap bar) would benefit most people that spend significant time sitting in chairs during their day. Anecdotally, I can sit for much longer than I used to without back pain since before I started deadlifting. Also, I believe you mentioned bracing power in your other video having potential carryover in climbing, and another commenter said training the ability to "try hard," which are both important at upper levels of climbing. Anyone evaluating the DL as a training tool should consider these additional points. A significant downside to the deadlift is that it is only safe if performed with proper form. Lifters should educate themselves on good form before adding the DL to their routine. It took a lot of KZfaq videos plus trial and error for my reps to start feeling stable and pain-free. To be honest, the instructional video provided here isn't my favorite because I think that it ignores the importance of bracing hard and engaging the lats at the bottom. Squat University's Ultimate Deadlift Tutorial with Martins Licis is simple and excellent). I do like Michael's thoughts on rep count, though. High rep doesn't make a lot of sense with the deadlift. I realized this channel is devoted to climbing-related health and performance, but wanted to add my thoughts to the comment section as a multi-sport athlete.

@personperson2380 Жыл бұрын

Re: Tom's comments about motivation. On the one day a week I spend specifically only "off the wall" training hard, the session feels like one of those super quality climbing days where everything just goes. I think this is due to the fact that my non-climbing workout regiment is very climbing-specific WRT supplemental strength & injury prevention. Some climb days feel bad! The proj goes unticked, feet won't stay glued, etc. So getting that feeling of a "quality session" out of my 'off wall' day is big for motivation

@joshburns9654 Жыл бұрын

Such an amazing channel with a plethora of high-quality content! Great collaboration as well.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Thank you! Emile and I appreciate the support! And yeah it was very exciting to get to work with Emil and Tom!

@DanielMaidment Жыл бұрын

My inclination is that while deadlift is tiring, it's good at training posterior chain coordination and strength, which is helpful for driving through the legs in an overhang (something many climbers struggle with). So maybe it's worth training once a week or so if you want to improve roof climbing

@allisonmeade6352 Жыл бұрын

For me, strength training helped to increase my mind-body connection. Knowing how to hold my body in specific ways and “turn on” muscles when exercising/moving on the wall and overall being more coordinated. Also being stronger overall has helped me feel more confident while climbing

@richardmarshall7308 Жыл бұрын

Great video. Great to have such open minded content. I’m with Emil, in that I like to train my whole body more as an injury prevention. Thanks

@raulrodriguez6171 Жыл бұрын

I enjoyed hearing the different perspectives on lifting weights from various perspectives. I came to climbing from sports that had a very different, more intense culture around lifting weights (footbal, soccer, swimming). It was always more about PR chasing rather than being aware of the state of the body and adjusting the intensity accordingly.

@imtoolazyyyy Жыл бұрын

Really liked the format of this video, and how it extends into nuance beyond the first summarized video of "best/worst" exercises. Enjoyed the multiple perspectives!

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for sharing.

@kingkrzes7121 Жыл бұрын

While working through a finger injury, deadlifting helped me connect my core to my posterior chain, muscle awareness I was definitely lacking that has translated into better climbing (and it made me feel strong!) I do not deadlift *at all* right now, as I'm focusing on climbing. So, I'm going to have to agree with Tom, Emil, and Jason here!

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Nice! That sounds like it was a perfect tool for you while working through that injury. Thanks for sharing!

@hellfish2309 Жыл бұрын

Following up on your video regarding core strength, I’d argue the core bracing of strict-form deadlifts is more important than the volume of crunches and sit-ups; the same for the core bracing employed for squats

@ravenruppie96 Жыл бұрын

This is such a cool video. Thanks guys

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it!

@21nGG Жыл бұрын

banger collab

@RVSAU169 Жыл бұрын

Haven't watched it yet but it's sure to be a banger!

@metalgearbas4 Жыл бұрын

I do 1 antagonist-day every week, just to feel stronger overall and feel more "connected" if that makes sense. I especially like various forms of benchpresses wich dumbells, because they engage my balancing-muscles in the shoulders alot, which I find helps me in climbing. Overall I prioritize climbing and climbing-related excersises, but I do like keeping the antagonists active to help posture and overal strength and stability. Regardless though, excellent video!! Love how these big names in the community (from whom I get most, if not all of my training-advice) come together to share perspectives and shed some light on these things. Great job!

@thekevinfoster Жыл бұрын

Is there a good way to tell if muscles/tendons are hurt by weakness or tightness? Luckily my upper body seems happy, but I basically keep rotating through minor hip flexor and hamstring injuries on my legs (often from heels or high feet such as moonboard) Any efficient exercise ideas? Could hiking more help?

@marks3440 Жыл бұрын

I do a variety of weight lifting exercises to keep the intensity up and have been playing a lot with the idea of ‘connectivity’ - so key! One exercise I’ve enjoyed is dumbbell press lying flat on the floor but with legs raised and core engaged. One thing that sticks out for me is I think there are a lot more climbers these days (at least near me) who solely climb at the gym - so the equipment is the accessible thing. I mention this bc I think people climbing outdoors are going to get some good supplemental exercise in but people who are just gym climbing probably need to pay closer attention to this kind of thing.

@FustFPV Жыл бұрын

Pros: Muscle Mass Gain Cons: Muscle Mass Gain

@teostrong6973 Жыл бұрын

Hey Hooper, I was wondering if there is any way to rapidly/efficiently improve neuromuscular signals for climbing. Having a strong muscle-mind connection is fundamental for climbing, and I know that it will improve over time just by climbing, but do you know if there is any way to improve this connection faster? Maybe you could do a research based video about this if you think it’s worth it. Also, another quick question, I keep getting ads for finger flexor bands, where you stick each pocket into each pinger and try to open your hand. I’ve seen other grip strengthening objects, and I was wondering how useful these actually are. Thank you for reading, I hope you are having a great day.

@Fonzleberry Жыл бұрын

I started climbing with a friend who had never really touched dl or bp. I feel my progression through the grades was quicker as an ex powerlifter as I understood how to engage my core on more physical routes. Eventually my friend caught up and even overtook me (6 months no training thanks to young family commitments) but event at, spongy and untrained, my ability to do shouldery boulders still outstrips his.

@oleshikaru Жыл бұрын

Great video as always! I recently injured my lower back (im a dumbass) and on my way to recovery but I don't know exactly the best workouts to help strengthen my lower back and hips. for me the deadlift might be a good solution? i got the injury from climbing and it started with the lower back feeling slowly more stiff and painful. googling it, it seems like a common bouldering injury but I couldn't find a good video on this one. maybe an idea for the future if ideas are low haha.

@michakurach6228 Жыл бұрын

Love powerlifting and love climbing. Iron in the morning and wall in the evening

@tristanlasley8030 Жыл бұрын

I follow a 2017 Version of Eric Horst intermediate training for climbing, and I absolutely love the individual day's. 1 day is strictly in the gym, I use that day for 2 great reasons. Firstly to judge my body in a more structured Way, second to work muscles that I may have missed during the week while projecting a left leaning project, I try to avoid muscle imbalance. Currently my right arm sucks at pushing where my left sucks at pulling 😂

@TheRazaell Жыл бұрын

@hooper's beta Could you make a video on what to do if you have issues with balance and proprioception (regarding climbing, of course!)?

@andrewlaw822 Жыл бұрын

Hey Jason, another amazing video as always! I would also like to know about your opinion on barbell squats (since barbell squats, deadlift and benchpress is like the holy trinity in weightlifting 😅). Squats are also amazing for the lower body, andmaybe better in building big explosive dyno jumps than deadlifts? Any takes on pros/cons, specificity, recovery time etc.? Thank you!

@zacharylaschober Жыл бұрын

The significant issue with several of the big lifts is CNS fatigue, thus I only deadlift during strength periods and before absolute rest days. Advancing in these is tiring, and trying to bench, deadlift, and squat as well as progress at least one aspect of climbing can be challenging for most. Good news is you’re unlikely to lose anything but the immediate neurological adaptations and those absolute strength/power outputs if you’re active in similar ways with climbing, and this means you can stagger them across training periods. As for explosive power, the squat would need to be extremely low weight to truly get towards speed-power and faster velocity, and I would direct most climbers concerned there with box jumps.

@christineholmberg7431 Жыл бұрын

What about adding DL as prehab for lower body/back stability? I have had low back pain several times from falling and need more glute, hip and lower back strength due to unstable SI joints. Muscle is a great way to protect joints like elbows and knees too so we don't fall apart :)

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Muscular strength and strength training in general can certainly be protective :) That can go a long way too, if it helps build up your confidence. Feeling strong and confident in your body can certainly impact your climbing in a positive way.

@chacal5842 Жыл бұрын

Good video. I think that not everything we do when we train has to do with specificity to climbing, there is a lot of work that goes in other directions. For me is definetly worth it to Deadlift and bench press at least once a week, and I'll do as long as I feel that is not interfering in my climbing performance.

@wdwdHenry9022 Жыл бұрын

dead lift with one big disc weight in each hand without the bar between, grab one each in the hand with a downward pinch. Great excercise for hand finger strength + the normal dead lift benefits

@grantnorman1854 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the great vid! Cruel to leave out the barbell squat :(

@charliedog8904 Жыл бұрын

Curious on what your thoughts are on the Olympic lifts rather than DL, as it recruits more fast twitch muscle fibers, which can carry over to the likes of dynos, and requires more coordination

@larryseibold4287 Жыл бұрын

Another great video. I love the way you put these together and don't preach a right or wrong or one way. I like Bench (supine press) and dead lift in moderation. One thing to give maybe a tad more thought is weakly energy and overall mass. You only have so much energy to train and recover in a week, and every pound that does not benefit you in climbing sort of hold you down (gravity pun there). Actually every pound holds you down. Some pounds give back more than others, might be a better way to look at the overall balance. Your gluts and quads are very heavy and do very little to help. Your pecs definitely help a lot, but maybe not as much as some other groups.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Yeah at minimum the next 24-48 hours after a good deadlift will be significantly affected. So taking that into consideration is very important depending on your goals :) Thanks for the comment / sharing!

@jrwhisky Жыл бұрын

Anecdotally I actually did increase my climbing abilities I only doing deadlifts! How??? I changed some things I used alpha grips like fatgrips, this put way more attention on my forearms but surprisingly also on my shoulders and upper back which is exactly the area climber's should focus. Because the grip of the bar was widened I increased my pinch ability and also avoided gaining a lot of extra muscle because it limits the amount of weight you can put on the bar. It also helped me recover some finger strength that I lost from prior injuries. I got back on the wall after a 3 month break and crushed it

@morefreepress Жыл бұрын

The principal of specificity is basically saying that you should train the movement patterns that mimic the actions required to perform that skill. For instance, if you want to be a better climber, train within the ranges of motion that are specific to climbing and this is especially true if you're considering going pro. Specificity is also important if you want to be a more robust and overall balanced human, which I hope is true for the vast majority of us watching this video. It's certainly true for this 47 year old crusher. In which case, you should consider training in the basic movement patterns that we humans regularly perform like pulling, pushing, squatting, lunging, hinging, rotation, and your gait. In other words, grab something heavy and get your reps in!!

@Mindofliz Жыл бұрын

As always, I think it depends on the person, but generally I had to stop benching for a while and when i started benching again, after about 3-4 weeks my climbing got SO much sturdier. I had been doing the same workouts as previously otherwise, and bench was the only difference. I was really surprised at first but thinking back on it bench really strengthens pretty much your whole shoulder so I can see how that helped me ( I have weakboi shoulders) Anyway thanks for all the vids!

@vampire909011 Жыл бұрын

I think I agree that deadlift or bench isn't too applicable, but I like them for general fitness. I feel like deadlift is good for my back etc, and other non-climbing reasons. I fall into Emil's camp (although a bit more frequently), that it's not an every session thing for me, but I do do it maybe once a week

@molomono9481 11 ай бұрын

Emil's input about gym training when you feel like you shouldn't be climbing as much as you are is hilariously on the money. Training for me also a good way to distract from climbing too hard too often, I'll still go to the gym but can get the force recruitment out of my system and knowning i can't perform my max anymore i do drills to focus on coordination/precision/balance/confidence while on the wall. This helps my fingers recover faster without having to take a break, i used to do it after injury, now it is a preventative habit.

@iain_nakada Жыл бұрын

Been thinking about incorporating deadlifts (sorry, DLs!) into my training for a while. Less interested in bench press as I do a lot of body-weight stuff at home and I like the engagement you get with press-ups way better (more core). It just seems that the deadlift works a large selection of muscles that I maybe neglect, and could be good for balancing out my body, and for injury prevention if done right. I certainly do have time, and access to a gym. Guess I'll find out about the motivation soon enough!

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Sounds like a great plan! Would be curious to hear your verdict after you experiment a bit.

@paulcartwright840 Жыл бұрын

I would say all training is good training....when first starting any sport and later on(I'm talking years(I'm 51 btw). Specifity is key in the 'middle' of your journey imo!

@petergbeal Жыл бұрын

Great video per usual. That said, the number of climbers, given a goal of significant improvement on steep sport routes or boulder problems, who would benefit from bench presses or deadlifts (no love for the Romanian?) is probably pretty small. I don't think they're going to hurt anyone, though a bad deadlift could be pretty injurious to the back. But there are better ways to use limited time and energy than on these lifts. I like the theory that they are good ways to get used to moving significant amounts of mass around but again climbing isn't really about that most of the time. Keep up the good work!

@asdzt123 11 ай бұрын

A note of caution, never ever round your lower back when doing a deadlift or you could injure your back pretty badly. The lower back is always absolutely straight. The upper back ideally as well, but people who lift a lot of weight tend to arch the upper back slightly. If you don't have an olympic bar and plates (45 cm diameter) you'll have to place the bar on top of something (two stacks of magazines for example) to get the center of the bar to a height of 22.5 cm from the ground. Another one, when doing the bench press don't press with the back of your head on the bench, if necessary lift a little the head to avoid pressing with it. When in doubt more repetitions (above 5) are safer to prevent injuries than low repetitions, that way the loads aren't close to your 1 Rep Max and you can get away with bad form and not get injured.

@paulgaras2606 Жыл бұрын

I’m a commercial refrigeration/HVAC mechanic and a hobby climber. I climb and train 5 times a week and then work for 8 hrs (or up to 16 in the busy season) I have two kids. I was skeptical at the first video. But Im definitely on board. You crazy kids with your endless free time to lift heavy and then recover while your social media earns you passive income can burn yourselves out all you want but I’m really loving targeted approach this channel takes. it really does help when every minute counts

@paulgaras2606 Жыл бұрын

And also I was legitimately skeptical at the first video but i tried some of the suggestions and I’m sold. I’m actually able to sustain more than 2-3 sessions a week without gettib. Exhausted. I still do bicep curls though because cmon

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing and for keeping an open mind! I think a healthy dose of skepticism when encountering new ideas is vital, as long as it's accompanied with that all-important willingness to consider/try new things.

@stasysfidleris3868 Жыл бұрын

I've had friends who have competed in bodybuilding in the past, and there's a lot of discussion in that community about large leg-involved movements such as DL that will stimulate hormone production (testosterone mainly), boosting muscle growth and recovery. Would love for you to touch on that at some point!

@LoveAndClimbing Жыл бұрын

So one thing that happened recently for me is that I stopped deadlifting and squatting to focus on a "strength at range" routine which both increases hip mobility and tries to increase strength in the hips near the limits of its range of motion. Before I started this routine I was deadlifting around 265lbs for 1x5, although I wasn't really pushing that too hard. Last week a friend was deadlifting and I decided to jump in on a whim. We pushed up weights and to my surprised I was able to do 315lbs for 1x3 (form broke down slightly on the last rep). This is at a body weight of 170. I definitely couldn't do that weight a few weeks ago, so it appears that my strength at range work and other climbing work is more than adequately working the deadlift muscles. The strength-at-range work has yielded immediate and obvious results in my climbing, so I would argue it's more applicable to climbing than deadlifting. And if I can achieve these deadlift results with a more climbing specific exercise, that indicates to me that I don't need to deadlift. A caveat: Training history is always relevant, so I should note that this isn't my PR: before I was into climbing I was into power lifting and my max was 415 (at a body weight of 180). That was years ago, but it's likely that I'm still benefitting from the ligament and bone growth developed from powerlifting. All that said, I'll probably continue deadlifting occasionally, simply because I like it. There's nothing quite like putting enough weight on a bar that the bar starts to bend and then lifting it with your bare hands. It's extremely satisfying.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Sounds like perhaps introducing cycles or periodization of those exercises could be helpful for you :)

@LoveAndClimbing Жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta Already on it, sort of. I'll generally keep doing an exercise until I'm feeling too fatigued on that exercise, or seeing a plateau in progress. Then I'll typically shift to something else that works a lot of the same muscles. I say "sort of" because sometimes I'll stick with a routine for many months if I'm still seeing progress. It's not so much pre-planned periods as making changes as I go based on my absurdly meticulous spreadsheet records. :)

@santi_super_stunts2573 Жыл бұрын

Are there any excerises that work the same muscles as overhead press but as a calisthenics exercise. Not strong enough to do hand stand push-ups yet

@zacharylaschober Жыл бұрын

Think Piked Pushups or similar either on the ground, using a box, box and trx, etc., to get the position to press overhead, as well you can simply do the handstand walks into the wall to wherever feels appropriate and walk the hands back and forth or simply hold a set duration. I am never balanced enough for handstand pushups, thus I use a wall, but the position is not great and thus usually try to press and get my shoulders towards the wall as much as possible then hold.

@wushumin Жыл бұрын

Lol on BP help w/ one arm pullup. I couldn't do one arm pullup (prob wasn't super far away) even when I could BP 2x body weight. But a year into climbing (& long after I've stopped BP) I just tried one day & did. Either way, I can think of many (especially skill based) exercises that would be better for climbing than DL & BP. But those 2 are simple & so people do them.

@AllegraClimbingPsychologist Жыл бұрын

I think there are three more reasons why I consider deadlifts useful (in moderation obv): 1. It's one of the most efficient exercises if you want to train the posterior chain without being too much lats dependent (like could be board training). 2. It's also a mobility exercise for hamstrings. 3. It really teaches you where your mental limit is, very underrated. I agree with everything else!

@ZackRaborn Жыл бұрын

Nice.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Hello good sir.

@arkadaurum298 Жыл бұрын

A high intensity strength training program once a week for 20 mins will make almost anyone a better climber, not that they will gain technique or the skill needed, but a properly implemented HIT training program will upgrade a persons whole body making them stronger, less injury prone, and more resilient. After upgrading your entire base strength you will feel stronger on the wall and should then focuses on technique and specific climbing abilities.

@jamienorris7049 5 ай бұрын

The absolute shade thrown by video editors when Tom mentions training Will Bosi and they slid a clip of Aidan Roberts in...

@edrapiko Жыл бұрын

and what about ring dips vs pushups?

@tylorstreett7824 Жыл бұрын

This topic will be debated for generations to come. I compete recreationally in climbing, powerlifting, and OCR, so being well-rounded is important. On another note, Mark Rippetoe in his Starting Strength program begins thus; "Stronger people are harder to kill. How do you get strong? You do squats, bench, the press, and deadlifts." While Ol' Rip may be wrong about a lot of things in modern fitness these days, that statement still holds true.

@menzobaird7095 Жыл бұрын

Was that John Long's quads?

@eliasdorset5616 Жыл бұрын

Sweet video! But how have you got mr beast as your PT?🤯

@personperson2380 Жыл бұрын

Favorite gym training exercises? Inverted rows!

@xinsanedefeatx Жыл бұрын

As someone with a weight training background, it always amazes me at the lack of specificity in climbing training Your average person doesn't understand the importance of movement/joint angle specificity. I imagine training pec flys (preferably cable or band variants to avoid deloading the movement at the top at relatively low rep ranges or even for static holds would be far more relevant and transferable than benching

@herrar6595 Жыл бұрын

The deadlift is a fantastic excercise but the SFR stimulus to fatigue ratio is not very good for most people when the primary goal is climbing. After 3x10 of heavy deadlifts I for one am toast and can't climb at all the next day. Which is why don't do them. But my ex for example seemed to have infinite recovery so I had her do deadlifts twice a week for general strength and conditioning because she just really needed that full body tension more than anything to advance her climbing

@axeus2008 Жыл бұрын

fucking legend

@axeus2008 Жыл бұрын

scuse my french

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

You're scused.

@itsmyboardwhotalk 10 ай бұрын

deadlifts are a big compound exercise I would say thats the biggest problem bc it just stresses the body too much if you still go 3+ climbing per week. smaller exercises, more isolation and specially one arm/leg movements are in my experience better as an extra workout.

@chewedsausage4176 Жыл бұрын

I've always wondered if you could do all of your climbing strength training in the gym and on the hangboard and only climb low intensity for movement and skill. Hard climbing once per week .... Interesting 🤔

@melissarobinson8638 Жыл бұрын

The men in this video are all impressively fit and very muscular. I can see why they do not need to spend more time weight lifting. I am a 52 yo woman who started climbing 4 years ago. I have never done a sport that required any type of strength, only cardio. Incorporating some moderate weight training into my days (after 2 years of learning basic climbing skills) has been helpful in progressing my climbing. Also as we age it is nearly impossible to simply climb and build muscle, you need to actively work at it to maintain a base level of muscle strength.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Awesome to hear that you’re psyched on climbing and training! And just to be clear: we are most definitely advocates of strategic weight/gym training for climbers. Choice of exercise is key :) -Emile

@leiyinglo9088 Жыл бұрын

What's rp? Or rpe?

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

rating of perceived exertion

@justinsmith3981 Жыл бұрын

One thing not covered is how these exercises effect hormones and how they encourage collagen production which helps with developing strong tendons.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Source?

@j_mo9030 Жыл бұрын

I'm still of the opinion that the weightlifting snatch has the most carryover to climbing. There is core/trunk strength, shoulder strength, leg power, thoracic and hip mobility, and coordination involved. Of course learning the snatch technique is a process itself. Maybe climbers would get most of the benefits from an overhead squat?

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Has the most carryover compared to what? If you’re saying compared to any gym exercise, that would be a pretty indefensible statement seeing as hangboarding and pull-ups are a thing ;) -Emile

@j_mo9030 Жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta certainly compared to the deadlift and bench press, which was featured in this video, correct? Mostly I was comparing to barbell lifts though. I'm of the opinion that even elite climbers can benefit from general strength, and also the fear of legs getting too big is completely overblown. If you want to spend most of your time climbing and be as efficient as possible in your GPT (like if I had to pick one exercise to do with the barbell), I feel like the snatch is the best option. Then you're good to go do your hangboarding and pull ups. I see a lot of videos of climbers doing back squats as well, which I think would be better served by a Zercher squat, especially if you're really concerned about your legs getting too big

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Ah, I see! Providing that kind of context is key.

@thicccboyztv 7 ай бұрын

Moat strength coaches would have their athletes do a back squat or front squat in lieu of a deadlift. Theres a weightlifting saying that goes that deadlifts are the best expression of strength, but squats are the best developers of strength.

@timonix2 6 ай бұрын

@13:12 if I did that rep my PT would probably tell me that I didn't engage my shoulders and lats enough. Letting the bar pull me down instead of me pulling the bar up. edit: I guess he fixed it at @14:20. That looked way better

@abelabel3664 Жыл бұрын

Instructions unclear. Kicked the bar, shat my pants and dragged my body to a ditch.

@bigslacker666 Жыл бұрын

Personally not a fan of deads. And in the past have DL 385@155 BW, rack pull 515 from below the knees so I'm not hating out of unfamiliarity. It's just you don't need that kind of strength for climbing ad you can build those muscles in ways that don't put as much load and potential for injury on the low back, like nordic curls as an example. Bench is fun too, though I doubt my very decent bench press REALLY helps me much climbing. :D

@lui5gif Жыл бұрын

What's RPE?

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Rating of Perceived Exertion (a 1-10 scale of how hard you're trying, basically)

@tomw3241 Жыл бұрын

DL is important! Why even bother with hanging on tiny edge if you can not aply any tension on small holds in steep terrain? Sure specificity is key in training but the further you go into it the more fitness base you need touse those skills. SRSLY isn't hip hinge relevant to keeping tension in steep terrain?? I wonder why you didn't ask Steve Bechtel about DL?

@Mrperson662 Жыл бұрын

lift shiny thing feel good

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Is being shiny required though? ;)

@joel6376 11 ай бұрын

I can't climb as much as I would like so I lift at times in order to supplement and avoid doing nothing.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

What are your favorite gym training exercises for climbing??

@eliclarke24 Жыл бұрын

Kettlebell!!! swings, Tgetup, squats. And Emil's point on periodization is definitely a great consideration for all these types of gym training

@seandzanda2038 Жыл бұрын

Atlas stone loads

@chuliobanulio Жыл бұрын

Explosive wide grip bench pulls and cossack squats!

@smjap Жыл бұрын

Barbell squats and overhead presses. Together with the DL and BP they make you feel strong af and bullet proof your shoulders.

@mechtar92 Жыл бұрын

If only there were a chart on climbing excercises and what performance is expected of climber for every V level or other grade that'd b fantastic🤔🙏 I now do rdls and dips but i only climb 6a with jugs and slopers

@jeremyredd4232 Жыл бұрын

I don't know if this is true, but I've heard the more muscles you engage, the more testosterone you produce. Is that true, and if so, is that useful?

@zsines6640 Жыл бұрын

Why take this thumbnail when it has nothing to do with the video? Didnt see the whole video yet but its about deadlift and benchpress

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

In the beginning we mention that this was in response to another video we did (the 12 worst exercise vids) and that thumbnail shows me doing the single arm external rotation exercise. So, though it may not be as obvious, it's all related :)

@alexeymalafeev6167 Жыл бұрын

Jason, you have to find a way to invite Dr Mike Israetel from Renaissance Periodization to talk about some of this stuff somehow!

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

That would be fun! I was thinking about that too. Might message him -Emile

@boulderingace7952 Жыл бұрын

Do you regret making that video yet? ;D Probably not with the view count! I think a lot of people are missing the point, even after this video. You’re not saying the DL and BP are sub-optimal exercises. It’s all relevant to your goals. For climbers, they’re not optimal uses of time or energy for most - there’s only so many hours in the day and week, only so much time to recover between sessions and if your goal is SPECIFICALLY to climb harder grades, there is probably going to be a better option (see climb more). Keep up the good work chaps, we hear you. Sweet one arm pull up btw 😎

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Hah no regrets! :) And yes, thank you! That is ultimately always going to be the answer to the debate with those exercises: the individual and their goals. Thanks for the comment and the support! And thank you, just trying to get on Emil's level ;) hah .

@aidenwalk1118 Жыл бұрын

I haven’t watched the video, but when it comes to training (I train for more than just climbing) it’s important to note that functional movements are just as important as accessory movements. In my opinion along side things such as pull-ups and tib raises, the bench press should be done to avoid imbalances. A bench press will translate to pressing strength as well as overall muscle development. So climbers should absolutely do bench because of how little the chest is worked in most climbing scenarios.

@jimmahgee Жыл бұрын

Meh. A few sets of ring dips does me just fine. No spotter required, and I don’t have to schedule a gym visit or share equipment

@aidenwalk1118 Жыл бұрын

@@jimmahgee I agree dips definitely translate more so and make shoulders stronger/more stable. I know that in my area at least, Olympic rings are less accessible than a bench press though. Rings are also great for most people if they aren’t optimizing muscle mass.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

You should definitely check out the vid :) We talk about ring dips as well.

@aidenwalk1118 Жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta I did, I use to do gymnastics, and love rings. I just don’t have anywhere in my area that is more convenient then a bench, so until then I just don’t have access to rings.

@chewedsausage4176 Жыл бұрын

Big pecs and slabs don't mix tho :'(

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Hah I just imaged large pecs pushing you off the wall when trying to stay close. Or, could they be useful to create additional friction?! hah :)

@chewedsausage4176 Жыл бұрын

@@HoopersBeta yeah man! Steep juggy ones for the big pecs 🤣

@Shrrrg Жыл бұрын

I really shouldnt be watching training videos while I am still recovering from covid. It makes me want to train and then I remember that I just barely managed to climb the stairs yesterday and then i feel sad again

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Ahh dang! Sorry to hear that COVID has got you down. Wishing you a strong recovery soon!

@stephenkoawl3453 Жыл бұрын

oof😬

@LachlanFaulkner Жыл бұрын

that physio explaining deadlift was honestly terrible

@aleksi3339 Жыл бұрын

Deadlifting to increase maximal - and speed strength would be very advised for any athlete invloved in sports that has something to do with your hip functionality. To do this you have to understand exercise physiology in theory as in how many sets and reps you have to do to consentrate on muscle building or strength building, etc. Saying that deadlifting will increase your muscle size just indicates your ignorance or unawareness towards exercise physiology. Anyhow who said youtube is a valid source of information.

@thisscreensucks Жыл бұрын

No offense. But I dont care what Emil thinks. He's good. But nowhere near the best, and everything is anecdotal.

@muscovyducks Жыл бұрын

Crossfit folk don't respect art

@Jshield579 Жыл бұрын

I think the guy explaining the compound lifts is not up to task. Pathetic explanation of the mechanics of both the complex deadlift and bench press.

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

The purpose of the video, and that section specifically, was not to explain the complex mechanics of the lift but rather to have a helpful discussion about climbers using deadlifts/bench press, or not, and to give helpful hints and explanations on how to perform it, especially if you are not coming from a background of already having a strong foundation in these lifts.

@AndTSG Жыл бұрын

Only fools, despots and viral KZfaqrs deal in absolutes 😂 Great breakdown! Go-to’s: db antagonist rotator cuff work and eccentric forearm extensions. Fighting that shoulder and elbow📉

@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын

Is that why we haven't gone viral yet?! :)