Parchment paper would be perfect!

I've had decent results with tracing paper and spray-can frosted glass coating. For my recent project I ultimately went with a milky diffused acrylic.

I've tried this and it works great. However, if the lights heater they start to get dark spots on them.

Thanks man! I have some ideas for extra diffusion for the next go around, should look even cooler!

I've seen Pier 9, though I'd be more than happy to find an excuse to go back. Crucible sounds cool, I'm gonna miss their open houses by a couple days but if they have an event the week before MakerFaire I'll be all over it. Thanks for the tip off.

You can usually just walk into the crucible and ask for a tour, they are super friendly over there!

ManCraftingTM Okay Chad, I just booked my hotel in San Mateo... is that compelling enough? Let’s do this!

Works by Solo what was you airline ticket? I’m seeing about $500.

We should totally get a maker meet-up going. Hit up Bob and Evan & Katelyn too!

Great idea! Get the word out early! Let’s do it!

Bobby Duke AND Winson are coming? Can't wait to meet both of you!

Hi Travis, thanks for the suggestion. Definitely sounds like a good place to chat with some creative people. Currently planning on being in the San Diego area probably between 5/11 to 5/14. Let me know if there's a good time to drop in and I'll try to swing it!

Winston Moy If you shoot for 5/12 to come visit then I could schedule one of our Digital Tools SIG meetings for that morning. Having you tell your story or share some projects would inspire folk. Or, if you just prefer to tour the shop then we could do that instead. Let me know your preference.

I mean... both sound good to me. Shoot me an email at winstonmakes@gmail.com and let's discuss more.

Clamps shown are these guys: www.suckitdustboot.com/oops-clamps

Thanks for the tip off, I was looking for a solution that would be better than stealing the diffuser from a donor LED TV.

In all honesty, (parchment) paper would work just fine in your situation I think. 216 and other filters are so expensive because they are heat-resistant since a lot of film-lights are (and used to be) tungsten based. You do get a lot of different varieties of diffusion (i.e. White Diffusion, Frost, Colored Frost, ect).

All of LA basically lol. Currently planning to visit Pasadena to Torrance, eventually ending up in San Diego. But now that you mention it, there's a brewery 2 blocks from the Carbide 3D factory... Maybe I should petition them to host a tour followed by drinks afterwards... 🤔

So, I think the idea of a "3D laser engraver" like what Glowforge markets itself as, is somewhat misleading. You can cut to different depths roughly, but you can't really make smooth bottomed pockets like you could with a milling machining. There are things a laser can do that a CNC can't, and vice versa. Need to pick the best tool based on what your project is.

twistedsifter.com/2013/04/3d-laser-cut-paper-art-by-eric-standley/ after seing things like this the laser again goes back on to my list.

www.engraversjournal.com/article.php/3007/images/Fig-7-big.jpg but your right with a laser you get a grain-like pattern that may look cheap and I really want to be able to cut shapes in 3/4 plywood and a CNC can do that easily and from what I have seen that would have to be a good and expensive 80w laser or an inexpensive 200 w. which would both cost around 4K and for 4k I can get a 3 foot decent CNC mill. i have been looking at Shapeoko xl, millrightcnc (faster and can use a 2.4 hp router is that really necessary?) , STEPCRAFT 840 CNC any thoughts? by the way have you ever Seen this thing?? carvewright ?? www.carvewright.com/cx/

Millright is okay, as is Stepcraft, but they're a little more premium priced. Stepcraft has a great accessory ecosystem though. And no, you probably don't need a 2.4 HP router. I'm perfectly happy with my 1.25 HP one. Carvewright is cool, but kind of a one trick pony. Good for making signs, but almost impossible to run smaller pieces through the machine. Are the machines that cost twice as much as a Shapeoko better for general purpose milling? Sometimes. But they definitely aren't 2X as good. You have to figure out your needs, how much you care about value, etc. Only a small fraction of hobbyists/woodworkers will grow out of a Shapeoko in my opinion, and it's mainly for size reasons.

Carvewright is cool but it's like having a robot dog instead of a real one It has no soul:) it's just a copy machine although it looks pretty capable, I want to learn CNC and I don't think its the right choice for most people in my boat. I like the Stepcraft its clean well designed but little overpriced for its hardware (its like buying a 60K Benz you will pay extra 45k for all the add-ons you get included in most other cars) its nice and the auto bit change is cool but I don't know how often does one need to change bits endmills when doing a project? i just dont know . Im leaning towards Shapeoko xl or xxl thoe i think the millwright isfaster and a better cnc because of its drives ext im leaning towards Shapeoko becouse even thoe most work I would like to do is detailes sighns and cutouts ext within 12x24 but I would like to do things with larger wood as well, for example, I want to be able to make assembly tables like this one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d5d2ZtxllrrSaXU.html I wold like to make a bunch of workbenches reaady to assemble with drilled dog holes I could sell them to my coworkers to recopinsate some of the cost of the cnc atleast the cost of upgrading to a xl or xxl (im in construcrion) (that was also a reson why I was looking in to the laser) but cutting 3/4 ply with a laser I wold have to shell out 4k maybe 6k atleast to get something capable and I wold not be able to compinsate that cost by selling off some workbenches to my coworkers, allso I want to be able to do things like planing redwood slabs automatically because manually with a router is a pain you are covered in dust and wood chips for several hours and it gets labor intensive and annoying .I would love to have a 4x8 CNC but I figured I can make due with Shapeoko xl or XXL. by my understanding Shapeoko is slow but it can produce detailed work and I can make 2 x 8 workbenches with the shapeoko xl just by manually lineing up everything and moving the plywood down as it finishes (or am i missing something do you think that it would be too difficult in some sort of way I am not imagining yeat because I have no experience with cnc ?) if i have space is it better to get the XXL? Am I asking too much from shapeoko? One trick pony is not always the best choice. Is it better to buy a faster Millright for the smaller work and Maslowcnc for larger plywood and sheet work? is maslowcnc capable of cutting accurately I have been looking at it for a while now I remember it was unable to cut accurately everything was distorted and imprecise at least by 1/4 inch or often more it also had some weird things when cutting it would cut as if a 14m lens GoPro effect, you have mentioned your friend got one? does the Maslow work now? is it working for your friend? maann im bombarding you with questions sorry for the overload you are now probably thinking why did I ever respond to this guy :) ... But I would appreciate your input I have no one else to ask about cnc... and its en expencive endeavor that i cant risk to get wrong.

You make a tempting proposition there...

Fusion 360

Only if the face of the acrylic is shown. The cut edges won't be frosted.

8mm frosted acrylic..or 10mm.. just buff the sides and torch so it will look pleasing.. anyway, thanks man.. this will be my next project.. i have plenty of frosted 8mm acrylic scraps, but i dont have a router so i think i will use mdf rather than wood..