Glad I could help

Heck yeah! Glad I can help!

Thanks man! Means alot to me :)

Thanks man! I'm glad it was so darn easy to install, I waited over 5 months for that harness to get built and shipped to me!

Let's goooooo

OBD = on board diagnostics. OBD1 vehicles are from 1995 and earlier. OBD2 vehicles are from 1996 till today, with a few exceptions with modern cars

Awesome!

Interesting! In Australia you are not permitted to 'downgrade', that is, putting an older engine and ECU into a more modern car, mainly due to pollution laws.

@infotechplus1950 afaik there's no law against it here, but even if there were I highly doubt anybody would spot it from any of the testing agencies here. Funny story by the way, I ordered my engine mounts from Hasport around the time I made this comment and they arrived...yesterday 😂

@@MattBeardless in NSW I’m sure you can’t go backwards from OBD2 to OBD1 in a later model car

Thanks Duc ❤️

Tell me about it! Mine took right around 6 months! I think it is because of covid-19

For sure! I'm originally from Hudson!

Heck yeah that's awesome! Glad I could help!

Now straight to the dyno🔥

I installed this harness on my car today and I am haveing a charge issue after installing the harness but my stock harness don’t have a solid white wire only winter and red and white and blue and white and green

We're out here in Minnesota! I wish I had buddies that built Honda's as well!!!

Hey bro, im in HTX and im building a eg b16a at the moment

@@TheMrAboy Brother I'm out in Dallas doing the exact same thing, JDM B16a & GSR trans, what's your instagram?

@@xdorries Drop yours and ill add you

TheMrAboy @xdorries

Coniferous bonsai

Just take your time! Zip ties are your friend!

Luckily for me it is very easy with an ob2a vehicle. I know for the OBD1 civics and integras there are 8 total wires you need to splice. Your best bet would be calling Wireworx because there is not enough solid info online. Wish I could help more man

@@kraftingkars ok thank’s bro

@@lauatcrew1 Did you get it done, bro? I'm struggling with it. Thank you.

Search up "positive insulated battery power post" just installs with two screws on either side of the post

The one wire coolant temp sender that I plugged in tells your gauge cluster needle where to be for your coolant temp gauge. The sensor actually gives the specific temperature to your ecu!

Yeah old hondas are pretty easy to convert to push start! They make kits for it so you just need to bypass the momentary ignition switch

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sNqaqLd2t7zWg5c.html already taken care of

I'm running a b16a3 out of a del sol. 1995 I believe, and my civic is 1997.

Mine did not, there was an option in the website to have a harness with that deleted I believe

Maybe your harness has built in plugs for the shock towers and ECU already? Otherwise I'm not too sure, I'd call the manufacturer

wire-worx.com/stage-1-braided/52-k-series-non-milspec-engine-harness.html here is where I got my harness. You can select whatever options suit your chassis and build. It comes with the sub harness!

I have a obd1 ECU, obd1 distributor, and the sub harness connects the engine harness to the chassis harness. Usually it connects to the two big grey plugs on your shock tower, I pulled those plugs inside my car so I'm still connected to them but it's hidden

It should but I believe on the wireworx website when you build the harness there are options for what distributor you run.

Have you figured it out yet? I run this kit, comes with a great diagram to help you. Basically your old fuel pump power wire will trigger a relay to allow a new power wire to run from your battery, through the relay, to your fuel pump. Then make sure your fuel pump, relay, and old fuel pump ground wire are grounded

www.kseriesparts.com/DWS-FPHWK.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvdCrBhBREiwAX6-6UngE7p6Rt5wC7Fy9Byw1ggjuKC4rjUEdqeWPuqRphA4GA4nssGKSoRoCoXoQAvD_BwE

Wireworx sends the sub harness with your main harness when you spec it out on their website. I'm sure they'll send a sub harness separately if you contact them

It should, especially if you order from wireworx, I would contact them for any specific questions for your build they are very helpful!

@@kraftingkars sounds good thanks brother appreciate the feedback

The radiator fan is connected to the chassis headlight harness, this is just the engine harness👍

Best bet would to give wireworx a call, if they don't have one listed on the website they might be able to make you one for your setup!

Just a generic charge harness I pieced together. I run a odyssey pc680 with a bracket screwed to a board in my trunk

Figure it out yet?

The water hoses don't get hot enough to melt the nearby wires, just make sure to keep those those wires away from the exhaust manifold! That will melt them and that is no good!

@@kraftingkars thanks!

Probably cause this build is outta this world.

And people have to FORCE their pp down when I pop the hood

Unfortunately I don't have a video, but it's really simple! Find any way to mount your battery secure in your trunk, connect the - terminal to any clean metal on the chassis. Then snake the + terminal through your interior into your engine bay where I would recommend you add a power terminal. Then from that terminal you need a power line to the fuse box, and a power line to the starter. And your set!

You would need the chassis headlight harness for that. What I'm showing here is the engine harness only👍

Yessir. The wireworx website lays it out very nicely, you can contact them with any questions as well

So for my Wireworx OBD1 B/D series wire tuck kit. I did not have to remove any of the cabin harness. I pulled the two plug connectors from the shock tower, and routed them inside the car, which is where I connected the plugs to my subharness at the driver's side foot well. When you order an engine harness from Wireworx they ask you what chassis you are running, this is how they decide what subharness to send you with your kit.

@@kraftingkars I appreciate your quick response. I didn't know they send you a subharness with your engine harness. Thanks for the info. I subscribed.

@@fivefivesix-sevensixtwo4114 thanks man!

My alternator has 4 pins and the harness only 3

Do you have an Instagram or Facebook? I can send you pictures on how mine is setup

I know this is an old video but I'm having the same problem on my car...my alternator is not charging any tips would be nice

32111P2A003 is this what your looking for?

That is a fun fact!

Hah.....phat chance😂

I'd start by tracing the power wire back from your starter. Sounds like it could just be a blown fuse

@@kraftingkars also those “extra” wires on the harness is it pissin to run my boost controller to them ?

Yep! So if you still have the factory fuse box under the hood, choose to get the separated charge harness. That integrated charge harness option is for people who tuck their fuse box inside the car.

(to oem fusebox location) is the one you probably want

@@kraftingkars ok thanks a lot man I was so confused lol it make more sense now 👍🏽

It came with my wireworx engine harness! Specific to my build

Yessir! The plugs on the ecu side will be a little different between obd2a and obd1. Which ecu are you running?

If you are still running the ob2a ecu I would recommend the speed factory part number SF-01-040 to adapt your harness

1997, but at this point I've refurbished pretty much everything

@@kraftingkars Wow, I'm impressed by how you refurbished it.

Nope! We really out here now

Yep! My car is obd2a, since a p28 ECU is obd1, and my b16 is out of an obd1 vehicle I don't need a conversion harness

I would recommend calling wireworx or rywire if you have any further questions! 👍

@@kraftingkars awesome man this helped a lot appreciate you!

Yessir, when you build your harness on the website you select your specific chassis and the style of sub harness you would like

endleswiring.com/products/honda-b-d-series-civic-integra-ek-battery-relocation-kit-oem-fuse-box-location

As long as the t bracket is made for a b series in an ek you'll be good auto or manual. If you used to have auto d series in there your old t bracket won't work. I had to get a new one when I went b series.

Hi, it doesn't fit I got 1 from crv and 1 from acura same engine but it was. Auto transmission and doesn't fit either, that's why my question if doesn't matter it's had to be auto or manual transmission.

I was thinking use the one from 99-2000 t bracket from civic si but I don't know the other ones there's to long if I put it in the transmission the motor mount it's to far away from the hole of the bracket

@@eugeniorosario6456 "as long as the the t bracket is made for a b series in an ek" so yes an em1 will work. Any crv, integra, eg, won't work.

Thanks for the advice, very appreciated

I like Castrol GTX 10w-30!

Synthetic?

It ran me $650 at the time

It is an obd1 gsr alternator! I was lucky to find one used! They are the best oem option since they put out the most amps. All the obd1 alternators have a green circular plug

It's an option that you can select when you pick out your harness on the wireworx website

It is an option you select when you build your harness on the wireworx website 👍

@@kraftingkarsI purchased one on eBay since I went with knock off harness

wire-worx.com/stage-1-braided/52-k-series-non-milspec-engine-harness.html

Under the "B/D/H Series Harness Route Options" section I selected the tucked option that connects directly to ecu

That's right, but I'm using a p28 OBD1 ECU

Nope

And I disabled it on hondata so I don't have to deal with a code

Ok so I can just leave it alone? I don’t needa bypass it or anything? And my B18c is in my EG DX hatch. Do I need to tap the passenger shock tower harness to run vtec? And the driver side shock tower for anything?

@@travisgallegos9363 what ECU you running?

@@kraftingkars v3 s300 p28 obd1 hondata

I'm running an OBD1 integra GSR alternator

Integra obd1

If your talking about the sub harness,it comes with your main wireworx harness

@@kraftingkars thanks for getting back to me.... Yea my harness only had the main and the charge harness....I thought something was missing until I seen your video.

@@amichael4681 i have the same problem did u find a sub harness

@@dominicschwarz3569 yes, I got the correct harness. The seller apparently forgot to include it with the main harness. The one missing runs under the dash like he said....

I had a couple extra plugs I didn't use, one for the knock sensor, and one for the stock oil pressure sender

@@kraftingkars sorry I’m talking about the one at 5:50 when plugging in chassis adapter harness

oh yeah so that plug is not needed

@@DeeezN the wireworx engine harness bypasses that one.

About 6 months!

@@kraftingkars really??

I just ask you because I bought it already, I'm still waiting the guy told me like 2 , 3 weeks😭

@afton.voigt.ej8

Can you post a link to the exact harness you went with?