I had bought one off of Amazon for $170.00 here in the states and its a month and a half delivery time that is until I saw your video and discovered that you paid half of that so I promptly cancelled my order thanks Mate.

Great review & sharing my friend! Good explaination. Liked & subbed! I also hv this wltoys 12429 & really enjoy it run😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Great informative video , Love my WPL stuff , I mean its not one of the bIg boys , BUT THEY are fun in just the same way ... thanks for sharing. Cheers 🥂 Great job 🖖

Sweet video

Hiya mate, I've got the same model as this and it's awesome too. Battery is a bit of a pain to take in & out all the time, but besides that it's cool. 👍 👍 👍 👍 4 thumbs up from me pal.

Looks nice and comes with metal shaft I think is got potential after some mods

From experience, if you want to add oil to Wltoys Shocks, you have to replace the 'O' Rings in them, they leak otherwise. 9mm x 1 - 1.5mm for the top, and a 4mm x 1 - 1.5mm for the bottom. Then they hold the oil 😊

Hi - it is a good car. The top speed is though only around 17 MPH (I have tested mine and saw other guy on YT having the same result).

Very weird place for the battery. I do like the monotone scheme with hints of red on this one and the new body looks great. The 12428-B (Blue one) has front and rear lights in the body I believe and the body looks good on that one too. If you are going to put oil or a grease in the shocks check to see if they have a diaphragm and o-rings otherwise they leak really bad ;) Silicone grease works well especially in the rears.

yup, same as 12428, she's a basher not a crawler, top heavy and roll over turning fast. to do list: the shocks ARE made to be oil filled but they don't have seals. put small servo grommets on a 3 mm diameter screwdriver shaft, carefully slice the button ends loose from the center tube, they install flat side up against the shock bodies under the lower threaded cups. you know the deal, remove lower eyelets, install them wet with grease, go finger snug to the lower threaded caps, then fill them with oil (mine does well with 10w-40, its a 390 powered Virhuck V-01). the front shocks are much shorter bodied with MUCH stronger springs, do the same thing but fill them with spare WPL yellow grease. you'll be able to drop the thing 16" and it'll flop down like a wet dish rag. next up, attention to steering. these DO have some pretty silly bump-steer, with the balls on the top side at the steering knuckles and bottom side of the inboard slide, it'll go away. I used ball end links and threaded rod on mine, can set the toe in nicely that way. now look at the arm on the servo, the ball is on the outer hole... move it to the inner hole. it's barely less steering but the servo has more torque to do it with, less leverage working against it, also helps prevent stripping the small plastic internal servo gears. the V-01 came with 3 pinion gears, WLtoys likes to impress with top speed numbers, its harder on the motor and the ESC, so you'll want to look at the pinion gear count the teeth and pick one up that is 4-5 teeth smaller, then play the games to mesh it properly. it was very easy with the Virhuck 12428 copy (390 powered may be different style motor mount). the smallest pinion it came with was a 22t (0.6 modulus), I dropped mine down to a 12t, then mounted 108 mm crawler tires on 1.9" rims... also trimmed 1.5 turns from all 4 shock springs, can lift any tire 4" off the ground with other 3 still down flat. the other mod (TY Steve ShenRC!) was heating and twisting the front A-arms to put the steering king pins vertical, is less stress on the steering servo in a "crawler/bouncer" configuration. if you've watched some of his 12428 modification and run videos you've seen how capable they can be set up like that. my clone can go from 0 to top speed (maybe 11-12 mph) in 10-12 feet to do a short jump if needed, torque and wheel speed is enough to practically run up a wall like the full size bounce cars can do. no need of going ALL the extra to make it a crawler/bouncer, but definite need of a smaller pinion gear to help save the stock ESC. with the tall pinion it'll pull really hard on the 2S 18650 battery pack, voltage drops and the LVC kicks in to shut the car off... OR, you slap in a 1500mah 25-30C Lipo that overloads the ESC to burn it, because of the tall pinion gear. yikes, another "wall-o-text" of info nuggets! these chassis have their good and bad points, rolling over when turning fast is annoying, but they ARE built pretty tough and fairly simple to work with or modify. not a great racer or basher, but can be a really great crawler/bouncer without spending too much time or money on them. cheaper 108 mm tires and rims were 13-14 bucks in eBay, gives quite a bit more center clearance to get over rocks etc.

I like this chassis and I'm going to get the desert truck version of it and make it nicer. Are parts still around for these?

I knew you would like it ;) 1st

Any chance of video of fitting orings and oil to shocks?

Now they cost about 145-169 USD via amazon or Walmart site

If you don't mind me asking, do you know what the wheelbase is on the 12429?

Is ii to possible to put stronger battery?

So I'm guessing there'd be no hope getting my 2600 2s batts in ? That's kinda a killer for me.

Between this and the 12428 Which would you choose?

Looks like a bargain

I watched the funny and informative video well. You have a good hobby. Want to be a close friend. 우리 친구해요.~😀😀😀

Get rid of the screw drive there a joke