Nah, you should be good.

Glad you got something from the video. That's why I started making them. I learned a lot from others as well. Yes, the fuse is definitely on the same circuit as the headlight relay. I looked it up on the service manual. If the fuse was out I would think that your headlight would not function. It could be that your diagnostic mode (DI52) itself is not working. Check in the diagnostic mode DI60, that is your EEPROM fault code display. If the testing process for your headlight relay is not working right you will see the number 52. I would think that if there was an issue with your lighting system, the headlight would not turn on at all. Same thing with your radiator fan. If there is an issue with the testing process (DI51) you should see a 51 code when you go to the DI60 in diagnostic mode. If your fan is not turning on while you are riding, I would think that your temperature light would turn on after a while. If it gets hot enough your bike will possibly even just turn off. Code 30 is just your lean angle sensor. If you have dropped your bike and it has turned off, it's going to register code 30. I would erase the code history and check if it still comes back. Most likely it won't until you drop your bike again. If it does and you didn't drop your bike, it could be an issue with the lean angle sensor itself. Code 17 is the EXUP servo motor circuit. Did you remove the motor and the valve? If so, did you install an EXUP Servo Emulator? If you did all that and are still getting code 17 I would guess that maybe your exup servo emulator went out. If you removed the servo motor and valve but didn't install an emulator, that could be it also. It's had to say what exactly it could be. Your bike might have some electrical gremlins as well. My advice would be to get yourself the service manual for the bike if you haven't already, and look up the fault codes on there. You will find what components and probable causes could be the issue. As well as what you should check and whatnot. You will also find wiring diagrams for each system, which comes in helpful if you are having electrical issues.

I bought mine second had as well. One key had the plastic on it then the other was all metal. My guess is that the previous owner of yours lost the one with the plastic and had a copy made. To my knowledge the key with the plastic does not have a chip in it.

Sorry just saw this. I'm not sue if you found a solution for your issue, but I'm not sure I'm understanding what is happening with your bike.

No problem glad you got something out of it. I didn't catch the question, but if your fan isn't turning on, that's not good. You're bike will probably over heat.

Hello Markus, if the fan is not turning on, the problem may be from 3 different parts. You should check theese 3 and you'll be ok. All of the parts below are relatively cheap to replace. 1- Fan motor failed. 2- Coolant temperature sensor failed so the bike does not know when to activate the fan. 3- Thermostat failed and stuck on closed position so hot coolant can not enter the radiator. -----If you download the WR250R Service Manual PDF, you can find where theese parts are located on your bike. Cheers

Just the blinking light. Sorry, I don't think I specified on the video.

Good question. I guess you can take it apart and look to see if there are any shorts on the circuit board or if there are any melted components. Also, look for corroded parts. Without the equipment to really check it, it will be hard to do. The ECU controls so many things that depending on what part of the ECU was damaged would depend on what the symptoms will be. The check engine light would be on. If it is completely fried, obviously the bike will not run. The bike would run rough. Gas mileage would be off, ext, ext. You can start with a voltmeter and check to see if the resistance is within spec. Sorry, I know it's kind of broad but I honestly do not know how to diagnose that problem.

well the way you test the ECU, lets say your code is #13, which is the intake pressure sensor error (which is what I have right now), there is 3 issue with that intake pressure sensor, first one is the sensor is dead, second one is that there is a short in the wire, and if everything else is fine (for the 2 issue) then you can assume it's the ECU. so you do step elimination until the only thing left is the ecu.

Not sure. I was only able to find something on it but it was for the wr250x.

when you see Diag, instead of pressing reset and select 1, just press select 1, and you should see C0 (instead of diag) and I think from there you hold reset and select and then you will see C1, then you should see the rpm.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h7GmZ6-cksfIe58.html. I have a 2020 wr250r. I had to jump the cable for the tach.

Sorry I haven't got around to it. 12 = Crankshaft position sensor 30 = Lean angle sensor 46 = Vehicle system power supply 70 = Left idle control Good luck. You can pretty much dismiss #30. It just means you dropped your bike and the engine shut off. #46 is either a bad battery, stator, or you have voltage drain somewhere in your electrical system.

@@MotoBeto82 what about the crank position sensor? My bike lost power one night driving downtown. I didnt even make it home. Now when I give it throttle it gets stuck in higher rpms. Twist it again it goes back down or gets higher sometimes. You have to twist throttle backwards forcing it making it rev down.

Forgot to mention that #70 is nothing to worry about either. Just means your bike automatically shut off after 20 minutes of idling. I would check my throttle tube, casing, cable, throttle body first. Make sure nothing is getting stuck. As far as the crank position sensor, either the sensor is just bad or there is something going on with the crankshaft. Does your bike run poorly? Bad gas mileage now? Below are some possible malfunction causes listed in the service manual. -Open or short circuit in wire harness. -Defective crankshaft position sensor. -Malfunction in pickup rotor. -Malfunction in ECU. -Improperly installed sensor.

@@MotoBeto82 I dont ride it at all. It's a 2011 model with only 1650 miles on. Just sat for a while. There was a recall for the stator I've got to get it replaced. The oil level is high but drain plug is stripped out. When I noticed it was when bike started acting up. So I just got it home and havent figured it out yet. On the way home it slowly lost power and eventually it wouldnt stay cranked. Then had to tow it. Might be stator but it has a new battery. I'm thinking throttle sensor or throttle cables could be bad. It started having problems when I did a take off hit 3rd gear and bike just lost power only had half power. I just got bike a few weeks ago.

@@MotoBeto82 I'm thinking when I gunned it the throttle cables came apart some and got stuck and at same time stator could have killed battery already. I rode it a couple of times. I just hope the oil level didnt screw anything up

I don't believe so, but I could be wrong. The service manual said it was only for WR250R and WR250X.

Sorry just saw this. I'm in Texas so mine didn't come with an O2 sensor. At least not to my knowledge. I replaced the whole OEM exhaust and I don't remember having to deal with an O2 sensor. I know some states like California might have different requirements and Euro models as well. If yours has an O2 sensor, I would look for the Euro model service manual and maybe there will be more information on that. I looked through my service manual and I wasn't able to find anything on the O2 sensor.

I’ve never had had to dig for it myself, but yeah I was just going off the service manual so I figured it was a reliable source. Good to know where it actually is, in case I ever need to access it. From the sounds of it let’s hope I never do.