Your skill with inappropriate tools really for the job is fantastic, someone get this guy a Tool Sponsorship, a decent Vice and maybe a small press 😁👍👍

As to the better way to install bearings. I watched a video some time back that worked nice. The bearings were put in freezer over night. When ready to install then heat the engin case with a propane torch circling around were the bearings go in. After the area was hot just lay the berring on engin and they just fell into place, no pounding on berring was required. As the temps evened out the bearings were securely set in place.

Really interesting seeing this torn down. Such a simple design compared to a 4 stroke engine. Great work, cant wait to see this little guy back in action!

I've been riding and maintaining these bikes for 10 years and I give two thumbs up to this guy for covering all of the aspects and the shit that happens when you're dealing with these motors right on brother I learned some stuff from you oh yeah and those vice grips are the shit!

Ive said it before and ill say it again those crescent visegrips are cool af your video is only place i ever seen any

This video has helped me learn so much not only about bicycle engines but different engines as well uesing the techniques in this video.

Whenever my dad had to split my dirtbike cases he would always throw the bearings in the freezer and the cases in the oven on low. It works for getting cranks on bearings also. Nice job on that, I think I started watching this video and then never finished. Haven't been online too much lately. I'm going to finish another motor today

I've found a manual impact driver to be very very useful in removing stubborn Chinesium hardware. Also, HOLD onto that gear puller that comes with your kit!! It is needed for the drive sprocket removal, the clutch removal, the main drive gear (bevel gear) removal!

got mine running today so much thanks for all the tips and info man alot of free help

Great work man looks awesome

This one is fun, Im enjoying it more than I thought I would. Drive sprocket looks good! The last one I had to replace had all the teeth worn down to sharp points!

Thank you so much for making these videos. I am a small engine mechanic and I do know how to work on small motors and I also know how to work on Automotive but I'm not as good at that but that's another story. As far as the small engines go just because I'm certified in that field doesn't mean that I know anything about these motorized bikes however I now own one I built a base upon my knowledge and did everything I could based upon my knowledge then I started looking for videos and came across you. And realized, there we go that's exactly what I needed because every small engine is different even though the concept is still the same every carburetor is different even though the concept is still the same. I know both small motors and doing mechanical work on small engines like chainsaws and lawn mowers and for likes but I know nothing about the motorized bikes up until now. Like I said I built my china doll at the beginning from straight knowledge the instructions in the manual were garbage. However after finding you and your videos I learned a lot more about the internals of this motor without having to take apart the only block I have which I am driving right now. And all those little tips and tricks on how to seat the bearings and stuff like that will most definitely help me in the future. You're 100% correct in my opinion about buying another motor brand new if a major part fails on your motor, because if you buy all those little Parts like let's say if you need a new piston, cylinder head, Etc then obviously buying the whole motor is going to be the way to go because like you said all those extra parts can be used and they're right there handy to go you don't have to order them in and wait. What is something like say the clutch goes well yeah in that case I would just buy a new clutch. So one would have to determine where you should buy a new motor or just buy the part. But I can say this if you were going to build the motor part by part by buying a motor and building it that way (part by part) you would probably spend a whole bunch more money, wwould only end up with just the motor in the end and you could probably buy the whole kit and thenthen some for the price it would cost to put it together like that so if you think of it that way and you're buying part for part that is something to keep in mind. That would be the way to go if something catastrophic failed then I would have all those extra parts brand new. Again thanks for making the videos Man these videos are a great help for me. Do you sell products? And if so can you send me some information on all the products you carry or sell along with the prices and Canadian dollars. I buy things off Amazon but I prefer the support the Enthusiast and people that are part of the community

Your exactly 💯 percent right about all of this because I bought one and it was running amazing but I'm new at it and I didn't check over the parts just one day and the nut that holds the chock on I didn't even know there was a nut behind the breather but anyway it wiggled itself loose and sucked up into the motor and destroyed the piston but I'm not giving up its the funnest hobby I've had yet and they gave me a full refund because it was before the 30 day warranty and now I have the automatic chock and it's the proformance carburetor so now when the new motor gets here I'm going to have fun working it into perfection because Jesus answers all my prayers and now I know what I'm doing better now than before and I'm going to use threadlocker this time amen and hallelujah and thank you for all your amazing videos and God bless you and have an amazing blessed night

This channel is amazing

Thanks for the video !!

Love the vids so sick

Great video

Good video love it but i got one tip for you it is easyer to put the magnet on first then the magneto because if you put the magneto on first the magnetic force is greater an makes your keyway - wooddrufkey jump all over the place makeing it much harder so its eazyer to put the magnet on first but besides that love the video alot of good info 👍

Hello bro reallt like every single video you have very very helpful thanks for helping me with a few issues I have ran into

100th.So there.LoL.Great redo,LA.Thank you for clear steps.I've done everything but split a case,(well,there were...time back..),and you can adjust your timing by shaving the magneto key too.I now have the 'poo-poo muffler/expansion chamber with braided stainless flew-pipe.Have you heard of being burned by oil spitting out of the braid?I get oil dots that are just So fun as they slowly cool on my calf.Congrats on the new subs too.Well earned.

Lots of LGR vibes, love it

When putting your key way on your the magnet be sure you don’t install the magneto before because it will be a lot harder to hold the key way down while you put it onto the crank shaft

I really liked this video thankyou for sharing :D

Your three times outweighs my no times, and really helps me have a learning opportunity

Guess I better go make some popcorn!

Have you found a place around locally for bearings have you looked up the brand skf 6202

With piston at TDC, is the very top of the piston supposed to be above the cylinder and the edge a little below? I got a gomax knockoff triple 40. Actually looks pretty good appears to be same cylinder and supposedly has a 40mm stroke. I know it has a ZL40mm rod and high hole piston. Thanks☺️

Can a rtv gasket maker be usedbon those main seals to fortify it? Or would that make it like a double gasket?

is there any step by step video on how to build a zeda firestorm 80? much appreciation for you channel!!!

Bought a new Clutch Bevel Wheel Assembly for my 80cc engine from eBay but the woodruff key is to big doesn’t fit the new assembly any help

did you check, how wide are the new bearings are, compared to the old ones, or were the inner race sites on the crank maybe a little different, you could try freezing the bearing an install

Brass is mainly an alloy that consists of Copper with Zinc added. Increased amounts of Zinc provide the material with improved strength and ductility. So Brass is better than copper.

Kinda off subject, but what is it that makes the sautek so good? A 38mm stroke right? Like what are some strong points of that particular motor? I'm asking because I'm always hearing you talk about how good it is. Also from my understanding, it has the 6mm cylinder studs. I'm thinking that motor might be a good candidate for a minarelli hybrid, given you could find some really good studs. I have an old CDH LD-14. Not much info on them, but they do seem just like the other ones CDH sells, well as far as bottom ends go. Also mine has a 38mm stroke AF80 rod. Those rods are the lightest ones according to Build break fix.

34:35 Huh, I thought the arrow on the top was supposed to be facing the intake side. Is there any reason for this though? Ends of the piston rings possibly popping out into the exhaust or?

Can a 47mm bore cylinder and piston kit be used on a triple 40?

I put grey permatex moto seal on the outside of my crank seals and I put the same two stroke oil I run in the motor on the inside of the seal. Every time I did grease inside and out they didn’t last long before they popped out. The permatex is easy to remove when it’s time to replace the seal too. But hey to each his own, whatever ever works for you I say.

Why do some people (online) say the arrow should face the exhaust? I went to check mine after hearing what you said about the pins facing the intake. They clear both intake & exhaust ports, not sure what going on there, BUT I made sure it was facing the intake to be on the safe side. Running stock wc pk80 (intake & exhaust ports are cleaned up with around .5mm taken off the sides etc.)

Again I'm referring to your zeta rebuild in the living room one tip that I might give you is anytime you're dealing with with rusted bolts and especially slot head rusted bolts and you know on a junk motor to begin with OR probably dealing with what a hundred and something dollar motor less than two hundred bucks I'm sure but anyway you know the the first thing I ever learned in any kind of shop class in school was to apply vibration and heat in other words tap on the bolt with a hammer and a penetrating oil heat a lot of times if I know that it's going to be hard to get out I'll try to tighten it slightly and then spread it with oil and then you know work it back and forth a little bit I never just try to go for it all at once cuz that's asking for disaster especially on a slide head I'm just amazed that they would even have a slot head bolt in that motor I hope that's not too long thank you for your videos

Is there a Bering store around you

😲 wow brother

Hi, does anyone know if he has made a full build of this motor? I just got mine delivered today and wanna make sure my first engine is fully installed 100000% correctly😊

You should try an impact screw driver after the hand screw driver then go to the impact. An impact screw driver will have less of a chance of stripping out the screws than the impact drill

On reinstalling that crank bearing, you can put the bearing in the freezer and let it get cold and it will retract and shrink the metal down where it should just drop into that place for it without any force or tapping. If it doesn't put it back in the freezer and then take a torch and lightly heat up the surrounding areas where the bearing sits, then pull the bearing out of the freezer and drop it in. The heat will cause the seat to expand while the freezer makes the bearings shrink and it should drop into place without any issues at all. That's how we install them on dirt bike engines. It also works with putting the crank in the freezer to shrink it as well if it's having problems going into the bearings.

I did 2 thicker seals on my 66/80cc when i did a rebuild on my engine. Nothing happened. I only added a washer to the magnet. Still works perfect. Idles very nice, rides very smooth...

your a rocket star dude fucking love you man

GO to BBI in Gastonia, N.C. call them with your seals/ bearings ETC. They can get ANYTHING you need for whatever project.

The only thing I noticed that works with the wood drift key for the magneto is superguling it in place on the crack

Need to know how ball and pin is set up on the clutch set up on the cable,? Is the flat part iagainst the flat of the staff part dwhere the cable ,clutch cable is attach to?

I have crazy chain slap when I park it's tight as a snare drum

One time i had my clutch plate off and was testing how my motor span over with a flathead screwdriver turning the bevel gear and it just came plain loose on me. My drive sprocket however is held on with the force of Jupiter's gravitational pull. Still haven't been able to remove it to this day. Also at 10:01 unless my eyes deceive me i watched you spin in a clockwise direction which is what caused your stripped screw. Don't you just hate when your hand hits that direction switch? lol

Just a be clutch arm assembly how do I get them to go together

How is it that camera isn't picking up the post that it's on and just looks like a drone following you?

What oil and mix ratio did you use in that motor ?

I've had my motorised for about 2 months it's 100 CC had never blowing up I had no problem with it

my 50cc bogs down at wot, its generally faster at less throttle. how do i get a bigger main jet?

My local Honda shop seals they matched it

I got some fairly steep roads where i live,so I pull the clutch and coast. Which makes me go way faster then the engine would. But i don't like to because the chain is still moving the engine super fast. Someone needs to invent some kind of rear sprocket that is like the bicycle sprocket thing,only engages when in use.

hey i've been thinking about something for a long while, see, i've bought a couple 66/80 motors, too. and i thought, since how, i have extras. i wonder if i can make a 125cc v-twin.... ish, the bottom line would be 132 to 160. i just think it would be an awesome idea

Where do u buy the bearings

Wow ,I'm a fan already,I'm really impressed,I'm using the China motor and it's so dependable how much do you charge for a New Chinese motor with heavy duty barrings,my name is Chris. This is one of my hustles in LA .let know something ,😊

LA Hover, I have multiple questions for you. You said you "used to run the motor too rich". when you were cleaning the head on this video, after the 16:1 break in period, how rich is too rich? What have been your findings with oil to gas ratios? Also, having watched all of your videos, it seems you have a large collection of tools. Can you please do a video on what tools you consider to be both irreplaceable and also beginner basic tools when building and maintaining these motorized bicycles? And lastly, is it possible to mechanically connect two of these engines to build an el cheapo V twin engine? Two things, I have no tools at all, and I'm at the starvation/ ramen everyday level. I DO have multiple bicycles/ gears and misc parts and frames and one chinadoll engine kit (along with a bolt on gear adapter and a few upgraded parts like a mikuni clone carb.)

So I’m deciding what bike engine kit I should get and the one I want says it’s a 66/80 cc block witch is it?

Do you have any idea of how many hours you put on it before this?

can i ask u somthing yyyy did u get th cheeper gadgets thay makes ones that r one the zada trippl 40

Anyone know if a Pacific Ricochet is fit for a motor??I'm a newb,thanks

That cylinder lining was probably worn off the first couple of hours since it was never opened up and de-burred I had the exact same thing happen with my zeda80

HEY I CHECK EVERY DAY FOR ANY OF UR VIDEOS,BECAUSE I GOT ME A 80 C.C. ON MY HUFFY MT.BIKE 26INCH.IM VERY IN THIS HOBBY!AND I'M TRYING TO LEARN FROM MAINLY UR VIDEOS.*I GOT A FEW QUESTIONS FOR YA.IM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET MY BASIC CARB.OPERATING RIGHT,&- IT SEEMS TO ME THAT IT STAYS REVVED-UP,WHEN IM AT 3/4-TO FULL THROTTLE?? -CAN YOU HELP ME FIGURE OUT THESE ISSUES?THANKS FOR ALL UR HELP,&ALL UR VIDEOS MAN!!-JEREMY WILLIAMS.PEARLRIVER COUNTY,MISSISSIPPI.

So what do I do ,if my piston dose come out go the top of the cylinder ?? Help please

Curious why you didn’t stuff the balance holes to reduce crankcase volume and up the transfer pressure. Doesn’t take long especially as it’s all apart anyway

Because I off road with my bike too

The piston and cylinder scoring pobably cause by reving cold motor cause piston heats and expands 1st , takes cylinder longer to expand its imperitive to let motors warm 2 r 3 minutes before reving . Learned this from chainsaw experience

how do i remove the engine? i know it seems easy, but seriously, the chain effectively holds the engine in place, so should i remove the 10t sprocket? or break the chain?! either way i can't believe i have to do this.

When I take off or try to install a head gasket it bends because the studs seem to be a bit more far apart than normal. It doesn't just slide on :(

Amazon has pretty much all of the parts you may need

what i do when putting the magnet on i add a dot of super glue to hold the key in place your welcome

Put bearings that are hard to fit in bag in freezer it will shrink n fit if you hold it for too long it expands n hard to fit, top tip hope it heps#######

I'm currently taking apart my engine but ran into an issue. The part you are hammering at 12:17 is what is not coming out for me. Do you have any advice for how to get it out? I have probably damaged the bearing from beating a little too hard on it already but it just won't come out even with WD40. I tried a screwdriver handle, nothing. Mallet and wood block, nothing. Mallet on metal. Nothing. Metal hammer on metal. Nothing. Am I missing something here?

So, yeah let's talk about the timing modification? You can tune the sweet spot in the rpm range a little bit, if that makes sense. It doesn't take much, 2-4 degrees can be a huge difference since port timing is everything.

Do u really have to use a torch to put the new bearings in?

If you heat the case before you put bearings in they go a lot easier.

Question for you and other enthusiasts that watched your videos, I have the 80cc newest style Zeta motor and I'm just wondering what everyone else's top and speed is and how hard or how long it takes to get to that top end. In this video The Creator states he gets 32 mph which is 51.4 km an hour. Now I'm wondering what other people are able to get their bike too in kilometers an hour if they're running the 80cc all Factory and how long it takes roughly to get to your top end speed on flat ground. For me I get a top of 50 km an hour with a lot of holding on the throttle and maybe sometimes a little bit of downslope, on flat ground a lot of holding on the throttle 47-48 kilometers an hour. However it'll easily get 43 km an hour as soon as it's warmed up. Once it's well and warmed up and holding on the throttle a little longer I can easily get to 45 and with a little bit of struggle I can make it to 50 sometimes yoI require a very very slight downward slop to get to that speed and then it'll hold it, even on flat ground. But Full Throttle I seem to top out in an average of 48 km an hour. I'm just wondering if this is normal for an all Factory 80cc motor with the factory sprocket as mentioned in the video or if I should be getting a little bit more top end. I've had it going up to 55 km an hour on a slight downhill slope. When I first was breaking it in it seemed to be able to get the 50 kilometers an hour a lot easier than it gets to it now and I hand to change the plug to an NGK replacementit's gapped correctly to .030" so I'm just curious like am I running in the proper top end speed for a full Factory OEM china doll or am I looking at some problems that I should be addressing before I move on to Port polishing and other upgrades that increase the power and top end speed. Thank you to anyone who answers these questions in advance. Also anyone who may have links to discussion forms for enthusiasts of motorized bikes please feel free to drop the links. I would really appreciate it.

Do the magnet fine tuning pleases

Awesome videos...you must be involved in mechanics at work...To install the case bearings just put the bearings in the freezer for and hour and heat the case with a propane torch and the bearings drop right in with a satisfying "clink" sound as they hit the inner shoulder... no force required and fully seated....Please don't stop making videos about the china girls...

Where in Louisiana are you from? I see plenty of pine trees in your videos. I'm from northwest Louisiana near Shreveport.

You should get a hand impact I prefer them for screw heads

Bom 👍

Harbor freight so the hammer pack driver that will break that loose

im finding a medium o ring that i have no idea where it came from

29:30 ok to be honest this just blew my mind

Have you considered buying a 20 dollar upgrade carb with a better air filter

Hello good ppl, I need some help. Could someone please tell me ( apart from the electric start ) the difference between the BT100 and the BT80 ? Thanks in advance 👍

How many miles do you think you have on this motor

how come you don't use an upgraded cylinder head?

haveing trubll starting frst motor and i just did somthing i have a tin blue to my gasss 2strok oil and i just flush out the crrb let gasss flush out the scrow plug and now win i push the nike u can here it suck gass like befor u cud not befor it was not runing i hav not try a gane but frst time i did try i had crab clossd off all the way is that right i was told but u 305 opin or all the way right and i live in dc i dont no if i need to do any thinkto crab i just whant it to run

Heat the case up with Heat gun for two min and it will drop in and as it cools it will tightly fit its self

You need a harbor freight impact hammer screwdriver.

Also would like to know how this particular motor runs for you now...

Quick question? Has anyone ever seen all your gas leak out of one of the crankshaft or clutch oil seals or bearings?? I mean, ultimately I am going to have to replace either or all of those I knew that when my trouble shooting skills lead me to realize my idle problem consisted from a bad bearing/seal due to it obviously sucking air because due to hesitation to stop enjoying my first build and fix it, I chose to not care about having an idle anymore. And now, if I forget to turn off the gas petcock; all my gas leaks out through what appears to be where it had to of been sucking air. This may be my first bike build but I'm no novice wrench monkey nor am I unfamiliar with 2 strokes but can someone please explain to me how the hell??? Or even, why the hell would gas be even passing through a closed main jet since the throttles not being turned....? And on top of that=could this still be an easy fix.......

Another trick is set your oven to 175 degrees warm up both cases pull them out bearings will drop right in.

Noice