Thanks a lot! Whether or not an electrolytic capacitor can be replaced with an MLCC depends on the circuit. I would say that in most cases electrolytic capacitors are used when high capacitance is required because they are cheaper or because MLCCs with the desired value does not exist, but in some cases the properties of the electrolytic capacitors are specifically required for a circuit to operate correctly.

I want to do the sameeeeeeeeeee

Hi Par3TV! It is very possible that your problems are caused by faulty capacitors. Although, I do not think they are caused by the capacitor that was replaced in the video. If you want your ZOOM 9002 to last a long time, I definitely suggest you replace all the electrolytic capacitors. I was lucky enough to be able to fit a through-hole mounted capacitor with ease thanks to the conveniently placed vias, but replacing all of them with through-hole capacitors would be a struggle. I suggest you look though the surface mount electrolytic capacitors on any of the big component retailers and find a series of capacitors with good specifications, and go with that. You should find a specification similar to "Lifetime @ Temp. = 2000 Hrs @ 105°C", which indicate the expected life-span of the capacitor; use this to compare.

Thank you!

Nice! Using capacitors with higher voltage rating than required is rarely a problem.

Hi Santo Stiriti. It is important that the polarity of the electrolytic capacitor is correct. In this video, the polarity of the new capacitor is the same as the old one. Since the old capacitor had most certainly not been replaced before, there were no reason to doubt that the polarity was correct. I would not recommend using this video to determine the orientation of a new capacitor, as the polarity of the new capacitor is not clearly shown. Also keep i mind that there could be revision differences between the unit in this video and the unit you have, so they may not match exactly. Making sure that the capacitor is connected to the correct pins on the charge pump seem to be a good way to make sure that you have oriented the capacitor correctly, but make sure that the same charge pump is used in your unit.

Hello Erymanthon! Since it seems to be hard to find a service manual or schematic for the ZOOM 9002, proper troubleshooting will be tricky. My first guess would be one or several faulty electrolytic capacitors, but I could not tell you which one. It could be that the capacitor you replaced took damage when you reversed the polarity. If you plan to use your ZOOM 9002 a lot I would recommend replacing all electrolytic capacitors anyway as it is just a matter of time before they will start failing.

@@SunandWeather Thank you very much. Yes, I tried replacing two more capacitors and the sound got better, it sounds like it should but still it is very quiet. I ran out of spare capacitors so I'll need to buy some more and replace them all, but this seems the right way to go. Luckily enough I found it is not too hard to replace surface capacitors with regolar ones, I just cut and bend the legs and it just works. Thanks again for this useful video!

So, a quick update. I removed the cap out cleanly and soldered a new 16V 10mF in its place but there was no change - still no output. I think I'll go ahead and replace the other 3 as well. Also, thinking it might be the IC. Have you +sunandweather replaced the IC? Don't want to mess it up!

@@digivish Hi digivish! As the capacitors goes bad the IC may be operating outside its specifications, which could potentially damage it. I have not replaced this myself, though. As it can be quite tricky to remove I would try to measure it as the video suggest before replacing it. If you come to the conclusion that you need to replace it, I would suggest you try to remove the solder with solder wick. Start by adding a bit of standard tin solder to the pads before using the solder wick to remove it.

@@SunandWeather Yes that's what I'll end up doing. My voltage measurements are 5V at V+ and 0.5V and V- so definitely off.

Good news on one of my Zoom 9002 (I have 2) I replaced the IC7660 and the 10mF capacitor and everything works great and so does the sound! Now my second Zoom 9002 has a persistent sound in the output - even metronome and tuner are not clear tons - I can sense them on and off but the hum/sound is consistent. Input signals only faintly show on Bank 0, Patch 1 but other patches no sound at all. I replaced the IC7660 and most caps as well but no difference - any ideas?

@@digivish Hello. Can you tell me please, what is a IC7660? I'll try to repair my 9002, but before open it, I'm reading all comments. Please.

It didn't work. Help me !! Please

Hello! It sounds like the charge pump on your unit is working as intended, so the failure is likely elsewhere.

Hi P4R! I am guessing they wanted a +/- supply for the analog circuitry so that the signal could be centered around ground. But that is just a guess.

Hi efirehawk! As of now, I do these repairs as a hobby, whenever I have time to spare. If you want to fix your units I recommend getting all the electrolytic capacitors replaced, not just the one that is causing the device to fail like in the video, as it is just a matter of time before the other ones will start failing.

Hello Pino G.! I replaced C56, a 10 uF, 16 V electrolytic capacitor. Please note that there is no guarantee that this is the component that is causing your device to fail. If you plan to use it a lot I would recommend replacing all electrolytic capacitors as it is just a matter of time before they will start failing.

@@SunandWeather Thank you very much, greetings.

Hi Luisatar! Since it seems to be hard to get hold of a service manual for the ZOOM 9002, troubleshooting will be difficult. As I said in the video, these electrolytic capacitors are not made to last, so it is very likely that there are some of the other electrolytic capacitor that is faulty. If you can measure the output voltage of the charge pump and make sure you get -5 V, you will know that that part of the circuit is working and if not, it might be the output capacitor that has gone bad, or perhaps the charge pump IC itself due to operation outside recommended conditions. If you have the -5 V on the output, the problem is somewhere else. In that case your best bet is probably to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors. It could of course be some other component that has gone bad, but without a schematic it will most likely be very tedious to find.