Diesel is less flammable than gasoline, but ideally you don't want to drive around with a significant leak. Mine was weeping for a long time before I was able to track down the source. However, it was leaking onto my motor mount, not the exhaust. If you know it's getting onto the exhaust then I would try not to drive it until you can get it fixed.

@@VHickleGarage Thx for your answer.Mine leaks to motor mount too.Honestly saying, We traveled 3000 km even I have this problem.Then one-day I said myself,ooo I m so stupid if this leak reach exhaust and it flames? But yesterday I checked again it leaks mount.

@@gokhandemir44 No problem. It will destroy the rubber in your motor mount eventually. . . ask me how i know. My new pump is leaking again, at the fitting this time, so I need to go fix that properly. Fitting keeps working itself loose. Either way I would recommend getting it fixed sooner rather than later.

@@VHickleGarage Thx Sir.

Sadly this has not gotten as much attention as I was hoping to give it. I did just get rid of another car, and am planning on using some of the money to get the trans so I can get this project done. Hoping by fall, but worst case I will have this swap done by end of this year.

I used PETG not PLA, but it is still holding up pretty well. Actually made an update video on the trim, and a few other parts a couple months ago. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d8uanaZilduVZIU.html

Absolutely, my Right front sensor is currently acting up and causing the lights again.

@@VHickleGarage just changed them all still have the lights

Best bet is to try to find a wiring diagram for your car. Most likely one is a high speed, and one is a low speed. However, If you already have electric fans (which you must, if there's factory wiring) I would suggest replacing with the correct fan for your car, and not swapping to a generic. There is no benefit, and you'll likely lose the ability for two speed fan operation, and possibly your AC fan trigger.

I'm not very familiar with that platform. If you just had hoses done, and now you've got coolant showing up, it's most likely that one of the hose clamps is loose. If you're finding coolant ABOVE the location of the water pump then it's highly unlikely that the pump itself is leaking. Look for something leaking above the pool of coolant. If you get the dye and UV light like I showed here then you should be able to track it down pretty easily. My money would still be on a loose hose clamp, or hose that's not fully seated.

You're welcome!

😆 I was more so documenting the $$ outlay to make the repair.

@@VHickleGarage were just having a little fun. (But charge her bro!) Great video!

It would be wise to consider your alternator output when calculating the fan power draw, but you may not need to upgrade. I had already upgraded to a Suburban Alternator prior to doing the fans. I believe it was the 140 amp unit, so I have had no problem with the fans getting enough power.

It is possible to replace the module only. I looked into it, and I believe it was about the same $$ as a whole new fan + module, so it didn't seem like it was worth it. On my '04 Audi it's an exterior module that I have replaced. . . however I have also replaced the complete two fan assembly on that one as well. Good Tip on the cardboard. I usually do this, but didn't this time for some reason. I'm definitely getting to an age where I can tell when I've spent too much time lying on the concrete lol. I also like the fact that if any fluids get spilled the cardboard prevents a bigger mess, and makes clean up easier.

All of those warning lights, and it being an intermittent issue definitely sounds like my experiences with an ABS sensor that's on its way out. I've got another one like that right now, and the lights just recently came on and have stayed on, so I've got another one to replace.

I ordered from Amazon. Here's the one I used: amzn.to/3gm3nyS (affiliate link) Like $25. Front/Rear are slightly different so just make sure you get the correct one you need.

Strange that it isn't showing you any codes. Did you try to clear all codes anyway and then Drive/Scan again to see if anything shows up? The dash lights shouldn't all be on unless there is some kind of fault detected. If you have a genuine VAG-COM you should be able to go in an find the signal for each sensor, but I don't remember which code blocks they're in off the top of my head. Ross tech's site should be able to direct you to the right place.

I would certainly encourage it! Some of these Ender 3 variants can be had for closer to $200 now. Although the more you spend the less you'll probably have to worry about setup and upgrades. Just depends how much time you want to hobby aspect of the printer itself. I'm nearly 4 years into 3d printing and still have at least one printer going pretty regularly.

Unfortunately, no. Hoping to in the next couple months. The 4l60e is making god awful noises and is probably about to explode.

Sure, as long as you've got coolant/water in the system once it gets up to temp it should run through the entire cooling system.

Always glad to hear it helped someone else!

You'll need some kind of obd 2 cord. Best option is the VAG-COM that's specific to Vw group cars. I use one along with their VCDS software.

It's usually the fan control module that ends up being the problem, but since they're typically sold a 1 unit it is easiest to just replace the whole thing. Of course if your fan isn't coming on at all now it's could be the fan motor, but a new one should hopefully fix your problems either way. The one I used, and linked to in the description seems to be a good inexpensive option. It's been nearly a year now since I did this and I haven't had any more issues with the fans.

The bolt broke, or the sensor broke? If it's just the sensor it should be pretty easy to drill out since it's mostly plastic. Alternatively, you could use a torch to heat it up and probably get it out that way. If it's the bolt, you're going to need an extractor (never works for me), or you'll have to carefully drill it out and then chase the threads, or re-tap it. Worst case would be drilling it out too far, in which case a helicoil kit would probably be your only solution.

Very frustrating, I guess I got off easy with it only being the sensor. I'm a little confused though. . .If you're not getting any errors on the left side why check the wiring for that side? You did install the correct replacement sensor for location correct? . . .i.e. you didn't put a right front sensor on the right rear, etc? I've hear of the abs module itself going bad, but I have fortunately not had to deal with that issue.

@@VHickleGarage maybe I fumbled my words. The error exists and reports the rear right wheel only. The driving data reports all three other sensors registering speed minus the rear right wheel. Hence the needed wiring inspection and (hopefully not for now) the ABS module revision. To answer your questions straight up: nope. The sensor is correctly installed. Thank you for taking time to reply!

@@marcelosilva9429 Got it. Hopefully it's just a small short in that rear right wiring. 🤞

Thank You! They should have, but for the price I knew there were going to be things wrong with it. People don't usually sell a car for less than half the BB value unless there's something wrong.

I'm not saying this is a good permanent repair, but it will make a huge improvement if you lost a big weight and are trying to get home, or get by for a couple days until you can get to a tire shop.

Glad it was helpful!

Here's the one I used: amzn.to/3gm3nyS (affiliate link)

Lol pretty much, but now I got a black coffee can tip. 😆

Mostly because it went on sale and I had some tax refund money 🤑

I used the 2x Satin in Canyon Black: amzn.to/3y8LLCT (affiliate link). It's been about 8 months, so far I don't see any signs of deterioration or fading. I'm sure it's a matter of time though, FL sun is intense. I should have gotten some 2K Satin Clear to top it all, that should really give it some longevity.

Glad I could help!

No problem. Most likely, it is a very common issue.

I'm guessing $1100-1200 all in. Couple hundred more if I do have to get both driveshaft redone.

Glad it was able to help!

Nope, VW TDI. Fuel pump fitting worked itself loose. I apparently should have used some red Loctite when I assembled the new pump 2 months ago.

Thank you. I've been pretty happy with, despite the usual German car foibles.

It's toward the top of my list, but life has a way of getting in the way. I would also like to get it done for selfish reasons lol. 1. Auto column shouldn't be any problem at all. I believe there is a pin that can be removed to take out the shifter. 2. I haven't pulled the wiring diagram for this yet. The pedal assembly I got has the OE safety switch for the clutch. You should also just be able to jump it, but then you would be able to start it without pressing the clutch which could be dangerous if done while in gear . 3. With these early ecu's it shouldn't hurt the engine to just unplug the auto, but I believe it can be disabled in the ecu. I swapped an LT1 that came with an auto, into my oe manual Trans Am, and was able to disable the auto trans in the ecu without too much trouble. I just need to verify it's the same or similar process for the blazer. They are both 94's so I'm hopeful it will be. Also, on my T/A I depinned and completely removed the 4l60 portion of the harness. This time since it's all in the car I might bundle and hide it, or just cut it off.

I should add onto what he answered, as my manual went out and i had to swap to an auto because that's what was available. Yes, you can use the auto steering column, as the only difference is the auto shifter, and the wiring for the neutral switch. The neutral switch on that column has a wire that runs to the ECM that only does anything when the vehicle is NOT in park or neutral, and then it has 2 wires for the safety switch circuit, and 2 other wires for the reverse lights. If you don't want to do any wiring, just leave the switch alone, but if you want the clutch safety switch to work normally, wire it in, as well as wiring the reverse lights to the switch on the driver side of the HM290. Wiring diagrams are your best friend. To your last question, the only difference between the auto ecu and the manual ecu is the shift light, and the one wire that runs to the neutral switch to tell the ecu that you are not in park or neutral. This wire only changes the rpm slightly, from what I've heard, and as long as it is unplugged or otherwise removed, you will not have any issues with it. Something I will add, (this is if you have the 700R4/4L60 transmission, and not the 4L60-E transmission), regarding the wiring going to the transmission, just remove it. All that wiring does is tell the ECM that the transmission is in 4th using a pressure switch, and informs the ECM that the transmission is overheating, or about to overheat, by using a temperature switch/sensor. There is a 3rd wire as well, and that wire is used to send power from the ECM to the Torque Converter Lockup Solenoid inside the transmission, based on what the other 2 wires are signaling to the ECM. If it is the 4L60-E transmission, i don't think there are any codes for it in the 1993 model year, so hopefully no engine light, but I am not as much help with that as I have a 1991 S10 Blazer. I will be swapping mine back when I can find another 290 or something similar and of the same rating. Good luck man!

@@denverkenyon3203 Thank you for posting

I haven't had any other leaks so far. No more diesel fuel smell outside, or inside the car, and nothing on the ground anymore. If you can't find any other hoses loose, or leaking then it probably is the pump.

So I guess I spoke too soon. Just drove 2 hrs from home and went through 1/2 tank of diesel. The fitting on the front of the new pump worked itself loose and it was gushing diesel.

I think I have the same problem. I'm not sure if it's either that or where the front hose meet the pump. But I have tma clear drop of the same rate appearing in the middle of the hose with no clear holes. I think it might be dripping from where it meets with the pump. How did you fix that?Great video BTW.

@@givenmaponya4529 That's what I originally thought about mine. I believe I said in the video, but there was no good footage of it. . . mine was leaking from the edge of the pump itself. If you checked that the fittings in the pump are tight, and that hose clams are tight/intact, and that none of the hoses are visibly damaged, then it is probably the pump itself like mine was.

Unfortunately not yet. I'm trying to get to it here soon, the 4l60 is barely holding together.

@@VHickleGarage I am also in the process of manual swapping my s10 I’m parting out an S10 with a 2.8L and am currently in the process of modifying a bell housing. I’ve built the transmission to handle 300 hp hopefully gonna have it done this summer

The battery and steering wheel lights are common with low voltage and/or battery replacement. Have you replaced your battery recently, or is it old? Low battery voltage can also cause a no start situation where the engine does still crank. Battery, and the connections would be first thing I would check. After that you really need to scan the computer to see what codes are stored.

You should be able to. I've seen plenty of factory manuals that have the 4x4 floor shifter. I would actually like to convert my 4wd from electric to manual once I actually finish the trans swap.

That will definitely cause it too! Hopefully you found that before buying a new sensor.

No luck at all? It's bought me extra time on a couple more batteries since this video. The one from my Blazer is still going strong surprisingly, but I've run the repair cycle on it several times.

@@VHickleGarage The 6 volt repair did not work.

@@Sodbusterrod Ah. . I have not tried on 6v batteries.

I don't remember where every last one was now, but did you get all of the cargo floor pieces removed? I had a little trouble there. It was definitely a pain to get it all out. Mine is leaking again, and I think I'm going to cut some access panels to get to the rear drains this time.

@@VHickleGarage thanks for the reply. Today I took the rear seat out and the entire cargo floor and was able to sort it all out. Where did you draw power and ground from for your camera? I tried to tap into the harness for the lights in the rear and I don’t think it gives enough current. If I hook up the power and ground to a 12 VDC power supply everything works as it should. Appreciate any help.

@@dandyscorner Glad you got it figured out. It's definitely a PITA. I pulled power from the 12v outlet in the cargo area.

I wouldn't say this one was terribly neglected, but it did need a little love. People who can't do their own work are often faced with dumping the entire value of a used car back into it for just a few basic repairs, so it's not too surprising.

They're nice the few times you use them, but in reality they probably aren't worth the trouble. The rear drains are currently clogged up again. This time I might just cut access holes rather than remove half the interior again.

You definitely went deep to get it back up and flowing. But keeping it from getting clogged is next to impossible.

@@crabbyjimmy1 You would have thought the Germans would have figured that out lol. . . Or at least thought ahead and made it serviceable.