I would assume so. Indian makes/made or whoever they got it from, an adaptive headlight with the Indian name on it. I got this one just before Indian dropped their adaptive headlight. Not sure if that helps or not but I think I still have the box this one came in and the original headlight still too if you wanted to know any more details or had other questions about it.

Interested to know how it shows up. Come back with an update so others interested can also follow in the comments about it!

Lol yep I’m in the same boat , I should’ve researched it more before I bought it , I will be sending mine back as soon as I receive it .

All the information is in the description. So if you already searched it, I'm not sure they are still available. I couldn't access the scootworks website. They may not be in business any more. Just a short search showed some posts that looks like they are long gone. Phat risers from them. Great while I still had the VTX. Rode with them til I got rid of my VTX in 2020. Loved the risers and they really worked great. Sorry if I can't be more help, but hope you can find something you can use. Good luck. And it was a very quick install. No drilling required. Just remove and replace in this instance.

Thanks for the reply and information on fitting the guns. I only had limited model types to show. Have to contact them and see what they can do about any of these issues too.

Fine for me

@@gab1172 and no issues with the trigger guard? Or do you have the model with the added plastic piece in there?

Black widows were 1941 - 1942 production. The 1940 code 42’s were too early for the Bakelite grips. There might have been plastic bullseye VoPo grips at some point but those would have been postwar East German. Wood grips were proper for that year.

The plastic piece you discussed, might solve my hang up issue

Well it's an old video and if I could do it over I'd do it without the music haha. But thanks for your constructive criticism, hope you could still enjoy the video!

@@MarshalZhukov I did

If memory serves, probably just the usual .30 cal brush and whatever I had on hand like Hoppes or something else. Wet patch around the brush, then dry patch and clean. The barrel was in good shape when I got it, so the before and after shot of the bore is hard to tell. I think the lighting was a little better for the after shot when I had cleaned it out already. But I don't think it was very dirty to begin with when I got it. I always used a plethora of bore cleaning agents because I"d shoot corrosive ammo out of a lot of my other milsurps at the time. I think I had got some of the Greek HXP or whatever it was called that I shot out of it. I know I had some when I shot my Garand I got from CMP, but I forget if that was before or after this 1903. Which I did shoot the HXP, I confirmed in a video a few after this one on my channel. And it shot pretty well.

The VNSH seems like an inferior knockoff of the 3Speed holster. I've been carrying solely with the 3speed for years and I've never had any issues with comfort, printing, or safety. Everyone has their own criteria for their EDC holster, so these types of holsters are not for everyone. What I mostly like about the 3Speed is the comfort and that no part of the gun ever touches my body while carrying.

I would buy it from you if you want to sell it.....

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like you saw quite a few back during that time.

@@MarshalZhukov Kind of!! When I was in the regular portuguese army they had the P-38 distributed all over all the armed forces, and the Lugers were in museus, specialy of course military museums, and only there I could regularly see them. And I saw in my hand 2 Mausers C-96s and a German Navy Luger, the 1st version by the way ( with safety grip, remember? ) . And a couple of them in private hands 2 times long ago. And this was it all...

I suppose it could also be possible to adjust the angle of the retention strap to go over the end of the slide, too. Even with the hammer back, the retention strap would then maybe theoretically act as a stop if some how the thumb safety was off and the grip safety depressed and some how the trigger engaged. But there is a lot more positive retention by the strap with it around the grip safety, too. In order for me to pull the trigger on the Glock I put in the holster, I really had to dig in for it to disengage that trigger safety. Still not saying it would be impossible for any trigger to some how be depressed inside that holster, but appears it would be highly unlikely. And it also appears VNSH has already begun to implement a plastic insert to help protect and cover that area of the holster to prevent any accidental engagement from the trigger by some outside force. But you have raised a good and possible concern for the 1911 carriers.

Yes I am still using it.

The money spent purchasing ads on youtube.

Was curious to see how the Brake Free reacted. And when I might expect that it should be working too. It was...... enlightening!

It's not as simple as just pulling the trigger. There was a considerable effort exerted to be able to. It also sounds like VNSH is already got a plan to insert a piece of plastic that will cover the trigger area. I updated the description with a couple other videos that talk about this issue.

@@MarshalZhukov that's fair, but until I see that resolution in action (and full production) I can only judge it based on the evidence in front of me. The fact you were able to push through the material to pull the trigger is itself unacceptable regardless the effort. It's not like you cut through it or slipped a shim past an exposed edge. You were able to defeat the protective cover by simply pushing on it. That's like opening the padlock on your shed by slapping it with a padlock. To be frank I'm glad you showcased that fatal flaw. Apparently the guy who runs the company actually pays attention to these kinds of reviews, so if it gets enough attention he'll hopefully push up the fix.

@@ShadowDragonXXI Concur!

I just got mine in today. They must have fixed the couple issues you spoke about. They fixed the snap lock and the trigger guard. I can not, no matter how hard I try, pull the trigger. They must be listening to these reviews

Sweet mine arrives tomorrow

I have one, most likely one of the first, my main concern from the beginning was releasing the retention strap. With all the experimenting they supposedly did, how did they miss that, first thing I noticed, was going to return. Everything he brings up, legitimate but no concern to me. I practiced for about 2 weeks before carrying and drawing was slow at first, got faster but of course no way as fast as my Lock Leather. The mag pouches needed tightened up for my Ruger EC9S but even doing it by hand, no big deal. Fell out once before the fix. I usually use my Lock Leather belt mag carrier anyway. Now this is stupid but, I'm a geez and do a lot of walking, if I wear this my back is much better the day after. Main reason I use it so much. I only paid in the high 30's for mine, some kind of limited deal, but would I pay what they want now.....nope. I use it probably 5 out of 7 days I carry but if I didn't have it, or would lose it, or (????) I wouldn't lose sleep. Hope this helps.

Nice glad it worked out for you and you were able to fix it! A unique design and operation for sure.

It's a Mic Tuning sequential LED light bar. But it's not available any more on Amazon where I got it from. If I didn't already have it, I might do Admore but that is quite pricey but looks like a lot of control options for it. Or you can always drill a hole to mount Skene lights through that part of the trunk frame. But keeping in mind if you mount Skene lights there, you will need like a quarter inch spacer since the wires run in to the back of the light so a flat mount can't be achieved or drill 2 holes for the wires and mounting stud. The older Skene lights the wires ran in to the side, so it could be flat. But Skene's P3 tail lights hooked up to a Load Isolator would probably work great there too. I do like the sequential function of the turn signal and it's yellow, since I don't have anything else yellow rear facing. Be interested to see your final decision! Hope that helps!

I guess I can try to help clarify if it's not clear by the placement of the tools in the short video. The T handle tool that I actually put over the front sight post at about 10 seconds in, is used for elevation. Raising or lowering the front sight post. Turn it for the desired raising or lowering elevation of the front sight post. It's a combination tool, so the end of the T handle is open to fit over the front sight. We can see the threads on the front sight post at 35 seconds where it screws in to the front sight base, so that is the indication of the necessity to turn the front sight post for desired elevation. The bigger part of the tool that fits around the entire front sight base, is used to adjust for windage. The threaded T handle screws in and uses pressure to move the front sight left or right. As the rest of the video is demonstrating one orientation of the adjustment tool to move it one way, then I swap it around to show for the other direction. Right at the end of the video at about 1 min 22 secs the angle of the camera shows the round circular portion of the side of the front sight that the pointed end of the thread part of the tool contacts and presses against to adjust the front sight for windage in either direction. Simply align the tool so the open side of the press tool fits around the round exposed part of the front sight, and turn the T handle tool to create the pressure and press it the required direction for windage. I realize this is a 13 year old video and the camera quality is not as good as I'm sure a basic Android or iPhone are nowadays. And maybe I was presumptuous to think that the position and demonstration of the tools in the video was enough evidence to show the process to adjust the front sight for elevation and windage of an SKS like this one in the example which was a Russian Tula SKS. Now that I have become older, and wiser, I am grateful for your input in the comment section. I hope that if anyone else comes across the video, this explanation of elevation and windage adjustment in conjunction with the visual aid will help clarify how to adjust similar SKS front sights. Hope that helps!

@@MarshalZhukov Appreciate the clarification, I figured it out. Now I'll have to re-zero the windage and elevation next time I get out to the range haha.

@@ExtremelyAverageMan I still can't believe these old videos are still going! The last time I shot that SKS, it really shot great! It's long gone at this point, but was fun while it lasted!

@@MarshalZhukov aw man, shouldn't have gotten rid of it! I bought mine about 4 years ago (before prices REALLY got crazy) and it's been a joy to shoot since. Finally got "serious" and bought the adjustment tool to perfect the iron sights on it.

It's there! Just the overall after action report after riding with one of them installed. Got amazing powdercoat on them, they look way better than whatever they do for deflecting the wind I think. The wind still comes right up over the top of the fairing in to the knee. I also added the plastic flip up deflectors that were on the earlier model RMs. But check out this video and you can see them as I was installing them still in the white. If the link doesn't show up in the response, you can find another prior video when I first got them on the main channel location. But feel free to ask any more specific questions about it if you plan to install one on your RM. Hope that helps! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nLinha6Cts3UeoU.html

I announce the books and author starting about 15 seconds. Don't have then any more. Long ago got rid of them. Standard Catalog of Luger and The Luger Handbook by Aaron Davis.

Well, the whole video is basically about what makes it, "special". The P series rifles have barrel liner sleeves installed in them. The original barrel was bored out then a sleeve installed. And it should be in 7.62x54R. This particular stock is also interesting, but not surprising that it had been through an Austrian WWI Depot at some point during the war with the foreword hole drilled in the stock, and the plugged hole in the rear then the bottom of the stock tapped with a sling point. Then Finland acquired whatever rifle that may have been in that stock after WWI through the 20s and later, and then appears to have repurposed it for this P series barreled action to go in since the P series modifications weren't undertaken until the 20s, as marked by the date 25, 26 or 27. As far as value, hard to say. Whatever someone wants to pay for it especially at an auction level is where you would probably get the opportunity to maximize it's value. Not up on the market for these like I used to be but I'd think it to be in the high hundreds anyways as long as it's not sportered or otherwise modified from it's originality for a P series rifle. Hope that helps.

@@MarshalZhukovthanks. I Appreciate the help.

I couldn't tell ya where they are now. Been so long. Moved away. But if they turn up I'll let you know.