The sleep mode is adjustable from 1 to 30 min. and the calibration is done in 3 steps by adjusting the difference between temp. measured by the station and the real temp. which you have to measure it with a multimeter or a dedicated thermometer.

@@HMProjects thanks for the reply. I want to know that can I calibrate the temperature in menu options?

@@HMProjects you are amazing. great job man

Maybe I will do it someday, not promise anything.

@@HMProjects I hope it comes true, Sir ...

Yes the magnets spacing may be a reason that the motor it doesn't self start, and another reason can be the combination between pole/slot, maybe with 14 pole and 12 slot as you said it will perform better, but the main reason is that it's lacks the laminated steel stator, I could use a stator from an old brushless motor but then wouldn't be "fully" 3D printed motor. Probably I try to improve this motor even if it doesn't have a practical use. Thanks for your comment!

Not sure, I didn't make the calculation.

Thanks!

To answer. Why not?

I know how electric motor works, I already mentioned in the video that the lack of the laminated steel core will affect the motor performance and of coarse how dangerous it is to run this motor at high rpm, being 3D printed this motor has no practical use, is only for educational purposes you shouldn't have much expectations from it.

I already mentioned in the video how dangerous it is to run it at high rpm, in the video I run at half of the speed or less. thanks for your comment!

I would not risk to run the motor at high rpm without gluing the magnets, unless I want to see how hard those magnets hit something 😄.

Yes you can use 0.96 inch display, but you have to change in the code the display you want to use by comment/uncomment using "//" at the lines 173-174 at the moment is like this, //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128x64... U8GLIB_SH1106_128x64... change it to U8GLIB_SSD1306_128x64... //U8GLIB_SH1106_128x64... It will work without a problem.

@@HMProjects Thank you, I have one more question, Can I replace Capacitor C8 (2nF) with 2 1nF capacitors? because I don't have a 2nF capacitor. Thank you

Yes, you can.

Sorry to bother you again because I find this product very convenient and I want to make one for myself. Can Can I replace bc 337 with 2n3906?

Can I replace bc 337 with 2n3906?

@@tungnguyenthanh4735 No, 2N3906 is PNP transistor, it will not work but instead you can use 2N2222 or any other NPN transistor but pay attention to pinout.

I'm not sure why, all the files are publicly available.

@@HMProjects will u be able to help me out

You'll find the link in the video description.

That would be interesting to make, maybe in the the near future. Thanks.

Good morning, I have the same situation, after connecting the soldering iron, it is detected and the temperature can be adjusted, but after pressing the encoder, the software freezes and no selection can be made, only reset remains. What could be the reason? To be sure, I uploaded the software again, but it didn't help. Regards and sorry for any spelling errors.

Today I managed to solve the problem with the inability to select encoder settings. It was enough to reduce the power supply on the Step-Down converter. I came up with it because it worked properly when powered from the USB socket, but after connecting the 19V power supply the problem occurred.

I have built V4 that uses rotary encoder, you'll find the video on my channel.

Hi, thanks. Yes I probably will make a video in the near future.

Thanks 😊

Did you have soldered correctly the pull-up resistor R14? First thought when you said vibration switch was there mey be the problem because with vibration switch it will not work properly, the handel should have tilt switch ( ball switch ) but if said that you pulled-down directly the D10 pin and doesn't work. I only can see three possible problems, the pull-up resistor is damaged or not soldered correctly, D10 pin damaged on the arduino board ( try it on breadboard if you have another arduino available ), and lastly it may be the code, maybe you did something in the code and changed the pin assignment by mistake. I can't se elsewhere the problem, I build 4 versions of this soldering station and even a soldering iron and all worked well for me, I had no problem exiting the sleep mode.

@@HMProjects Thank you for reply, seems that D10 digital input is damaged on my board, i have switched to D11 and changed in code, and now it works, idk why this digital pin doesn't work, it is a brand new board, maybe it has something to do with bootloader or something?

@@meax7180 I suppose you're not having a original arduino, those clone boards have also ATmega328 microcontroller clones, some works without a problem some of them doesn't, I have some Nano boards that analog pins A1, A2 doesn't work properly, I'm not sure what may cause the problem, it may be the bootloader or is just the chip itself. Anyway, I'm glad I could help you and you solved the problem.

Can i send my board to you?

@@Muskad Hi, sorry to hear that. Check all the jumper wires to soldered, verify with a multimeter the voltage at the imput of the Mini360 and the output and see if you have whatever your power supply voltage has and respectively 7V on the output, and lastly verify the pin VCC pin from Arduino Nano to have 5V, and from here you can figure it out where may be the problem. After you verify all off those and and still is not turning on, I will try to help you out further.

on the mini360 the input is 19v and at the output there is no voltage at all and I have tried adjusting it but there is still no voltage... but at the pin of the mini360 IC there are 2 voltages 19v and 5v... the 5v voltage stops at the pin of the IC..

I've fixed the output, and 5v has appeared... then I tried turning it on and it worked but only for a moment then a line appeared on the screen then it turned off and the light on the Arduino also turned on standby. now the condition is off again but the 5v is still there... and on the screen pins vcc, scl, sda no voltage appears.. Am I still soldering wrong?

@@Muskad if you have another Mini360 power it up and set the output to 7V before soldering it on the board, and another thing is to check after you power the soldering station the ATmega328 microcontroller on the Arduino board to see if is becoming very warm or hot, if it does the is defective. Another thing, the OLED display that I used it has the pins ( from left to right ) VCC, GND, SCL, SDA but others have GND, VCC, SCL, SDA verify this thing as well because if that is the case it puts everything in short circuit and potentially damage the display.

Thanks, I didn't missed any solder joints, those are unused pins from Arduino board so there is no point to solder them, it make it easy to change the Arduino board in case it happens something with it, and lastly I have a bottle of dissolved kolophonium in isopropyl alcohol and I spray the boards with it, it offers good protection and it make easy of solder or desolder components on the board if needed, basically is a flux applied on entire board, the only small disadvantage is that it takes a little bit longer to completely dry, but I do not recommend spraying the board with clear varnish because if you desolder something on the board it makes it harder to do and it leaves a black melted varnish.

Sorry to hear that, to answer your question it is a Pensol soldering iron not personal soldering iron, I'm not sure if this tipe of iron is available every where in the world but is quite common here in Europe, there is nothing special about it is just something that I had laying around it is a simple iron that has a heating element and a thermocouple type K as a temperature sensor, actually this station it will work with any soldering iron that has a thermocouple type K like Hakko 907 if I remember correctly.

Thanks. First you have to measure it with a multimeter, the heater will have around 8 Ohms and the thermocouple has a lower resistance, but pay attention that thermocouple has polarity, and on the board first pin from left to right is heater, secont pin is thermocouple and the last to pins are ground ( they share the same ground ) I will add some pictures with the connections in the files folder for better understanding.

Thanks, pretty cool idea and if you have a 3D printer you can make an adapter for it. The batteries are 18V or 24V?

@@HMProjects yes I have a 3D Printer and the Batteryadapter for Makita. The Batteries are 18V. You see any problems with it?

Thanks.