Great tip

You absolute don, thank you!

Think my kids pulled the arm around while we weren’t looking and bent the nails making the arm stiff. It’s fixed but is this just a temporary fix then?

Show!!! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

Those bearing case cause a lot of problem and is made of stamped mild steel. It takes very little force to deform them. What you can do is remove the offending bearing, then ream the hole, so you can jam a skate wheel bearing into it. I believe MR52ZZ or MR62ZZ will work in both cases. Make sure the bearing face is flush with the assembly so you don't run into problems. Once you do this, the function of the tonearm will be restored. Or you can find the exact same bearing and attempt to replace them, but again, these are basically stamped mild steel and any little force in installing them will deform it. MR52ZZ bearing cases are hardened and ground to a very fine finish and high concentricity. I do not know what else you'd lose if you try this but I've done this to a couple of decks and they've stayed exactly where I put it without any anti skate.

Why would your platter have dirt and grease from your hands? You don’t have to touch the platter or the dots.

Have a drink of water

holy shit, I thought I was going to have to replace my tonearm because everywhere I read, people were saying don't mess with the tonearm screws because the factory has already set it up perfectly. I just loosened it a bit, because I kept having issues with the same second of audio being played. and now my sl1200 works fucking perfectly.

this is so hypnotic

I tend to mix while eating cheez doodles is that bad?

Wow, I finally found this video, after searching months for a solution to my SL-1700 pulling to the outside. The further the tonearm would play toward the center, the stronger it pulled making the audio quality suffer, to where it sounded like the stylus was covered in lint. I loosened the screws like the video shows and now it no longer pulls. Thank you!!!

best video on youtube for this problem, nice easy demonstration to follow, and it solved the problem for me, although i think ill need to actually replace the bearings the next time this happens, my 1210 mk2's are 33yrs old, and its actually the first time ive had any problems with them

I've just managed to do this without the need to remove the platter. I found the correct size of screwdriver bit from a set and was able to grip the bit with my fingers and tighten the two screws. Making sure that the two slots where the cart slides in were at right angles with the deck. My reason for needing to do this process was due to the cart being cocked at an angle from the deck. Therefore the screws needed to be loosened first. Just make sure that the screwdriver bit is a snug fit.

Great tip!... Nevertheless, what I ended up doing was using one of those eyeglass mini-screwdrivers. Worked beautifully and no dismounting required (not even the platter). Thanks!

Can I use WD40 in the Q-tip?

Awesome

Great video, I had a dual turntable that my girl friend bent the tonearm bad a used one was more than a complete good used turntable !!!

"a little play on the gimball is required" ....... Seriously !? You must be kidding !

The easiest way to clean is with dishsoap "Dawn" and a microfiber cloth. After dry use a jewlers rouge cloth and then buff with a clean microfibre. No way Im using a bristled brush. Maybe a ultrasoft toothbrush.

My advice would be don't touch the platter - there's no need to. When mixing learn to just use the pitch control that's all I ever do...but that's 35 years of experience for you.

Uh... weird... I had just left a helpful comment as a follow-up to this advice. And now it's gone? Maybe because I included a link to an imgur? Tune1200, let me know if you deleted it otherwise and I'll delete this comment. ANYWAYS As an addendum, If your pins have indents from the ball bearings: I found that I can hone a new surface on the gimbal pins by chucking the threaded end into a drill and then using a whetstone or sharpening file to grind a new surface. Apply tape to the threaded end before chucking. Also, I did discover the answer to my other deleted question regarding the intermediate gimbal pins for up-down tonearm movement. The one pin with the hole on the side is not threaded. It's glued into place. There was no setscrew. I was able to destabilize the glue by heating that part in my oven at 325F. I could then wiggle the fake stop collar and pin loose.

So the dots should be still?

THANK YOU!!!

I used to just stare at it...

Great video. Please drink some water tho

Great video I use washing up liquid and then toothpaste and lastly brasso

Thank you! I thought my bearings/tonearm were shot. I was able to fix it your help. Just seeing how to unscrew the pivot screw alone was helpful.

Wow, this fixed it! Thank you.

How do I check the bottom lock ring?

Lol

Good work sir Please one record Plyar give me please sir Thanks for your

you are a really great person for doing this. over 10 years later it's still helping people

Actually Mother's mag and aluminum polish and a few paper towels will really make it shine removing all of the tarnish causing by the oil on our hands.

Is his voice pitched?

My top row of dots are still the bottom ones are moving in different directions, plays fine

Looks more like your antistatic doesn't go to zero. If the bearings car damaged by a hit or over tightening dents the bearings races and causes a detent not a smooth movement through the full travel of the arm.

And the wheels on the bus go round and round, round and round...

Tell the idiots to stop touching the platter.

Is it OK that while using Gertz - I here the speed is fine. But strobe dots are running wild. If I use pitch to make them stop - the speed goes completly wrong... is it OK?

holy 90s

Remove the magnet... Just 3 screws and use a mild wheel cleaner.

doesnt work for me, i think my dirty dots are black from corrosion

mine never did this. These Technics are built like tanks

Hell yes …good stuff..

Great advice!

Thx for the video. My tonarm allways want to go to,the middle of the platter, not the center. From either direction, regardless of how i set the anti skating, it allways shifts to the middle with quite some force.

thanks a lot ! solved my problem!

just buy :Avery® Reinforcements for Hole-Punched Pages, Clear, 200/Pack for like 4 bucks they are the perfect size

cheers bro this worked heaps well

For clarification, you are using a polish, but you did use the word cleaning as you used the polish. Did you use another product to clean the area first before polishing or is Maas polish a cleaner too? Tks