About 4 minutes 30 seconds into this video, your test grid is shown. Several of the squares have vertical bars in them. I have noticed this in my test grids on tile as well. Do you know what causes this?

Damn good video! Liked and subscribed

This looks really good but the TiO2 should really be in weight. Usually liquids in volume, solids in weight. For example, 150 ml water, 50 ml glue, X grams Ti02. Also, this way, you don't have to run the material test grid every time since the recipe is exactly the same everytime.

What is you laser model and head "w" output? I have atomstack a10pro and my modul output is 10- 11W 12V 3A, can I use same 24V 5A power supply like in your video as I have the same problem

Excellent work!, I’m sorry I’m new, what compressor do you use?

Can it be used to mark metal?

sweet. Were do you find your artwork?

I'm a newby to this and had to look up TI02. Besides tiles, where else would you use this product?

V we y cool project, thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

Great review, want to see more.

Where do you get the images from

I just found this video. Thank you for this alternative to paint. After the washing, Do you have to seal it against water?

May I have the files also

I had all the same issues. Was about to give up. I saw somewhere that another possible solution was to reinsert the SD card in the frame. When I tried that I missed the slot and the tiny SD card slipped inside the frame. I said what the heck it hasn't worked 5 months so I took it apart, took out the SD card , reinserted, put it all back and wow it works. Something so simple. Take out and reinsert SD card.

I tried making this mixture, I shook it for a long time, I still have white specks, I assume Tio2 that aren't mixing in.

does this method work on any color tiles or just white

Great video! I've done rocks with limited success. I've never used the TIO2 on them. I have the TIO2 that I use on white tiles. I can't wait to try this out!

Thanks for the video and your efforts:) By the way, the term "school glue" and the picture of the bottle do not make any sense, as they are the same as "Elmer's," "Kids Glue," and "Whatevershop-orbrandname glue" found in a nearby village store. Instead, would be great to hear the glue is simple PVA (Polyvinyl acetate), but not "Mr Proper glue". Thanks. I constantly see that many people don't care to mention components properly to avoid misunderstandings and mix, for example, acrylic and nitro or oil substances in one. Another part of KZfaqrs thinks that all people in the world live in the US or at least must have the same-brand shop in their surroundings, whatever they are - Tokyo, Paris or Olinda in Brasil:)

Hi there! Thanks for the video. Can you give me some advise please? I have also tried the method. Immediately after lasering it looks nice, but after rinsing the image is ruined. I tested the best settings and let everything dry thoroughly. What am I doing wrong? Is the method only suitable for a diode laser or also for a co2 laser? I have a Co2 laser, this could be the issue. Thanks Barry

Awesome 👌

you just took away the whole point of using imag-r when you change the settings in lightburn it nulls out anything you did in Imag-r unless you click on passthrough. just a tip! Love your work!

"stop using paint" *proceeds to make homemade paint with iso as the medium*

What laser were you using, wattage?

Get yourself a spin plate or old cpu fan.

Looks great! Would that fan work for exhausting more thsn 1 laser st a time? If so I could see a great way to make this manifold work for multiple laser cutters.

Great job thanks for the video

I just engrave no paint then I run alchol based ink

have you tried this with any photorealsitc images? IE an actual photo?

What is TI02

I just want to say that I get EXCELLENT results with acrylic craft paint, thinned and airbrushed. It doesn't wipe off prior to lasering. It's cheap - fifty cents per 2oz bottle. The results are dark and crisp - identical to tio2. It's washed off easily with water. 🤷‍♂

Great video and great results. Always looking at new methods. Titanium oxide in foods is now banned In Europe and I am certain the FDA are looking into it. Although the powder is available here food grade or not the reason for the ban is of course its carcinogenic. So the thought of spraying it into the air really bothers me even with a good mask. Like you say it's every where and if you touch it, it comes off. But really nice results.

I’d trust 50/50 by weight or volume?

NO criticism to this video, but, when I tried the mentioned "mix", (WITH RO water), the consistency was very "clumpy" with a gazillion salt sized bits that seemingly had an affinity towards each other. Before I received my tiles and glue, I tried a 91% IPA and Ti02 mix on 2 inch glass mirror discs and the results were making me anxious to test on tiles. As my alcohol and Ti02 is burning right now, I CAN see that, in my testing, only using the 91% IPA and the powder is doing the trick, (I also added about 10 drops of red food coloring), just enough to provide a light red tint that is most important to verify coverage. The mix seems to dry into a film that withstands air assist and that is good because I understand that the flying bits of Ti02 can sometimes bounce up and give your laser lens hell. I appreciate the results this video details and in my particular "blend" it seems that I have found something that works.... P.S. For reference: Longer B1 30 watt, a 2 to 1 mix - 3 disposable med cups of 91% IPA, 1.5 disposable med cups of Ti02, ~ 12-14 drops of red food coloring. This provided a "milk" type consistency applied medium to light heavy. The heaver coating did provide a blacker black result. The over-scan was set to 5% as my machine has a very tame 500mm/sec acceleration in both the X and Y motion and the "nominal" 2.5% OS did not cut it. The test grid was 3K MM/MIN to 10K MM/MIN with the "best" band running from 3KMM/MIN @53.3% power to about 6.5KMM/MIN @100% power. YMMV. Hank

I did not have the glue but the TI02 was delivered and with just using the powder and 91% IPA, had fairly good results on a 2" glass mirror disc. The 345 DPI did not come out as well as the " standard" 254 DPI.. BUT, lasering DOES lay down a good dark etching. More testing will improve and with a bit thicker coating with using the added glue, maybe better results... My 30 watt was run at 5000mm/min @ 60% pwr. with a 254 DPI giving best results so far.... Your inherent "tighter beam" with the 10 watts is prone to do a better job at higher resolutions and running my 30 watts at the higher DPI was probably "blowing off" the dark layer laid before on a straight "fill" operation. More testing and more results...

Each laser will have it's own power/performance, but, for a reference only, what is the power of your laser in this video? Thanks for providing an approximate reference for others to compare...

GREAT VIDEO.... As Home Depot has a case of 100 4 inch tiles for only 16 bucks, (50 - 6 x 6 inch for ~ 19 bucks), I will have plenty to fine tune my Longer B1 30 watt machine. Since my piggy bank had a bit of extra jingle, I also bought the 2 watt Ruby laser with a fantastic 0.03mm x 0.03mm beam spot which will/should produce results finer than my 73 YO eyes can see.... So, it looks like I'll be busy checking out this method to receive the best results possible at a very reasonable cost.... Question please.... What are the results when "marking" clear glass?? Will the image also have a dark/black "color"? Thank you for sharing this method to get good results with this mix... Hank

I am getting terrible coverage compared to yours. Streaky and lumpy. I did the same 3/1/1 as you did. Material test with a LM3 20W was meh at best. I'm not getting nice and black results. Ran 500 - 5000 mm/min and 10 - 100% power.

would a diode be able to burn off the white paint?

1) How long does it take to "burn" a 4x4 tile with 0.06 line interval at 5000 mm/min? ALSO 2), I noticed that it looks like you've made a kind of jig for your diode laser cutting area. Do you share that information anywhere? Thanks. Very helpful video. I haven't had any success yet, but your tutorial is sufficiently detailed and very straightforward . . . and I am hopeful.

Great project. Very impressive.

Love that jig. Do you have a video on that?

The results look incredible, well done, out of interest have you every tried this process on clear glass?

This method was my first attempt at tile and it was a disaster for me personally. I thought maybe it was the TIO2 not being food grade, I hit it with a stick mixer....changed consistancy...nothing but a mess. Went online looking for TIO2 with laser reviews on amazon and it took me back to the one I have. Saw several reviews about how well it worked on a 5:1 ratio of IPA to TIO2 in a spray bottle. Tried it and it looked like I had been doing it my whole life and was a pro at it. Dont know if it was specifically the TIO2 or something with my technique but using IPA in lieu of water and glue the solution was much more soluble and it perfectly coated my tile. YMMV

Just ran across your channel and the watched the two TIO2 videos. I am awestruck at the results you achieved on those tiles. I am relatively new to the world of lasers. I installed my Xtool S1 in mid January. I have never used a laser or the software before. I look forward to learning a great deal from you and your videos. It would be helpful to let your viewers to tell them what type of laser you are using and what power. You may have done this previously but as I said, I just found you. Thanks for sharing your expertise.

This looks awesome! Where do you get those images?

50/50 by weight or by volume?

Nice. How durable have you found TI02 to be once you cleaned off your tiles? Do you need to be fairly gentle with the marking or is it mostly permanent? Thanks.

That looks really good. Might have to try some of this stuff. Thanks!

can you do that on canvas?

Is there any health concerns with using this in the laser? I vent it outside but just want to make sure no concerns just in case. Thx