Nice video!

This guy!!!!🤣🤣🤣

Is it compatible with Pentax K3. Too bad, I couldn't find ShutterSnitch compatibility list even in its own site.

Damn I loved this video ! Thanks !

When you travel, what type of cases do you use to bring your larger lenses? I recently purchased a 500mm and am having trouble on what case to buy.

The spider and the floor buffer hahaha😂

Thanks foe this!!

Choice of battery that isn't too big, but will run the router from 2-4 hours. THanks!

is there a way you can get the images from the remote cameras without going to them physically ?

Thank you for the tips! I'm finally starting to use remote cameras - I shoot motorsports so lot of the points don't apply but there is still plenty to learn from and use. So thanks again!

Thx for a great video! Would you make one for a soccer goal remote as well, specially for summer night game, when the light is constantly changing.

Excellent info as always. Might have missed it in the video or comments but wanted to see it you had a recommendation for the power supply to power the mobile router. On another note, I might be out your way with Lipscomb University volleyball the first weekend of September. Thanks for making all of these great videos and the BYUphotos website - top class.

As always - we appreciate the information and look behind the scenes!

The need for f4 is why a crop is better in low light for action thats a ways away from the camera. .. A crop shooting f2.8 has a DOF of a FF at f4. That allows a crop to shoot a lower ISO or a faster shutter speed! A crop gets the same amount of light as a FF.. A lens can only crap out so much light!! For the wide angle tho, FF just looks better!

If the receiving Pocket Wizard is in the hot shoe does it have to have the cable plugged also?

Would love to see football, soccer, baseball remote set ups...I have set up behind soccer net....and basketball remotes but never FB or baseball!

Have you guys considered image.canon? It's a new sorta intermediate storage "shelf". I just saw some info about it.

This has been phenomenal! As a student of photography - seeing a full athletic shoot is so rewarding and educational. Now for questions on your light and camera settings 😁

Love your Vid man! You got me with the "Golden Rule" bit.🤣🤣 Great stuff!!!!!

Thanks for the great video. I have a question, is there a way to figure out which images you have sent, so that when downloading the card, these images have a mark or something? and then you can keep the RAWs, and ditch the rest. I know you can rate them, but I am looking for a different way, as to rate I need both hands, and two actions. Thanks again

So graceful, erotic and calming.

I’ve taught photographic lighting for years with a background in photography which start back in the 1970s mastering Adams Zone system which made me realize OPTIMAL exposure of any scene occurs TECHNICALLY when the output medium (slide, print or monitor) displays ‘seen by eye’ detail everywhere. The limiting factor in getting optimal exposure with digital cameras is that the range of a CROSS-LIT sunny scene on clear day exceeds the range of the sensor requiring compromise when setting exposure with the choice being correctly exposed highlights with corresponding loss of detain in the shadows, or rendering the detail in the shadow but at the cost of sacrificing highlight detail. The solution to that dilemma is to find ways to reduce the contrast of the scene lighting. The most effective method of prayer-praying for an overcast day. The lighting will not be as dramatic as a clear sunny day but your photos will have detail in all the jerseys and faces hidden in the helmets. A solution on a clear sunny day is to shoot with the sun directly behind you. Again the lighting is not as dramatic as cross-lighting but the scene contrast is lower in flat light and less shadow detail will be lost if exposing for highlights and ‘splitting the difference” and losing a bit of detail on both ends becomes a viable option. Shooting into the sun also works if blowing out the sunlit background isn’t a problem. An example of that would be a photo taken looking up where the sky is the blown out background. In 1972 when I was twenty years old I apprenticed with and shot weddings for Monte Zucker who introduced the uses of dual flash with fill on a bracket over the lens and off camera key light on a rolling stand (actually a modified medical IV pole). Raising an on-camera flash out of the hotshoe on a bracket so flash head is 16-18” above the lens creates flattering downward modeling on full face portraits and becomes ideal fill light when adding a second off camera flash. Technically it allows a photographer to CHANGE SCENE RANGE/CONTRAST to match the range of the sensor. If shooting with just a single flash on a bracket outdoors I put the sun to the back of subjects and set shutter speed and ISO to keep sunlit white clothing and skin at least 1/3 stop below the clipping warning then adjust flash power (manual or ETTL) to keep the front of the white clothing 2/3 stop under clipping. This creates a contrast gradient of clipping specular highlights which contrast with the sunlit white clothing / skin with it contrasting with the ‘shaded’ side in front which the flash added over the ambient at a similar angle lifts. If shooting static portraits where the off camera flash can be the strategy is similar but instead of acting as the “key” light for modeling the front side the flash over the camera acts as fill and its power need to be set base on the shadow detail not the highlights with the power of the second flash being the one adjusted for correct highlights. I always carry black and white hand towels for setting flash in advance of portrait shoots. I drape them over a stand to create 3D shape to read the light in sunny backlight setting shutter/ISO/aperture to keep the sunlit parts of the white one 1/3 stop under clipping. The flash on camera is adjusted until I can see detail in the black one, and the off axis KEY flash until the highlights it creates over the ambient and sky fill are 1/3 stop darker than the sunlit highlights or 2/3 stop under the clipping warning in the playback. All it takes is a few test shots to set the lights and then any clothing and face ranging from as black as the black towel and as white as the white one will be exposed OPTIMALLY with ‘seen by eye’ detail everywhere and few if any unfilled dark voids because the flash is centered over the lens capturing the image.

super nice tips, thanks

I was nominated for this video and I have rarely seen anything so good related to sports photography. I have been photographing American football in Brazil since 2014 and I have always spoken to photographers who are references in the field, looking for tips and ways to improve. Even with all this time photographing, it's never too late to learn something new or improve. Thanks for the video.

What monopod do you use? Do you screw it directly into the lens foot or do you have a head and quick release plate? I’m concerned the screw in won’t be secure enough.

This is great, thank you. I have found and issue when connecting to my iPhone hotspot. The camera connects to the iPhone and I get a solid green light on the back of the camera and the iPhone shows a connected device but as soon as I try to transfer an image the camera loses connection to the iPhone, the transfer fails and the light on the back of the camera flashes green then red. Any ideas?

Do you use the compressed RAW option?

Did he lock that stand before he walked away ? hmm.. ;-)

I have been hammerIng my RF10-20mm @ 10mm 99% of the shots, for 6 month now. I can shoot perspectives my colleagues cannot. Absolutely sharp as a tack @ 10mm and corrected in DPP, but, I do not correct the minimal distortion. This gives me 9mm. This lens is not beaten atm.

Great review and photos.

Excellent presentation.Well done and thank you.

This is pure gold¡¡ here´s a new follower

59:56 valuable content and information throughout the entire video, no doubt. But I’m really curious about the lens/camera combination here.

Oh my gosh! The Card rename trick and the filename meta is smart! you have no clue how many times, it's the middle of the night and I'm looking at a card and comparing if it's already cataloged!

Name, model, type body

This has been awesome to see how a major university photographs their athletes. Question though, what are your settings on the camera and strobes as you do studio pictures like this?

Great stuff. Thank you. Would love to see the walkthrough video.

Bravo! Thanks for sharing all your expertise, yours is for certain one of the most professional and thorough videos on Sport Photography. I was very pleased by the short analysis of your teamwork practices; is there any way you can go deeper into that on a dedicated video? Thanks again and great work!

You’re probably not still answering questions here…. But I’ll try anyway. Any ideas how to speed up the transfer? Yours looked like 10seconds, the fastest I’ve ever gotten is closer to 60… which is kind of unmanageable. Let me know and thanks!!

Thanks for me teach video and photos

Finally seeing the output of ur flash on the remote is a game changer 🤣🤣🤣? You do know Godox have been doing that for almost 10 years right?

love this explaination!

wouldnt your phone hotspot be easy since nothing to bring but ur phone and use that ?

Excellent video!! Which Think Tank shoulder bag did you have in the video?

🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰

wow finally a photgraphy channel that with info that is very helpful to lots of people, thank you for the service you provide here on youtube , I'm now a subscriber.

Extremely difficult watch man, these photos suck!

This is absolutely the best and most informative sports video that I've seen. Thanks for doing this.

Thanks

Excellent video with really useful exemples!