It is not so much that the paint is thick as the part is small. The long side is 3mm.

It is Tamiya XF-5 and XF-7, that is green and red.

That might explain it, combined with the grey base underneath, that the red looks a bit muted and especially the green seems very dark. Mine are definitely brighter. I didn't build anything in a while because lack of space but as far as I remember I used X-5 and X-7 because they are a bit brighter than the matte ones and I painted the position lights white first. Painting them on a white surface might actually be the bigger factor than the paint being X or XF.

I have been wondering about that lately. This is really getting into the minutiae and I did suspect that it would become boring for many viewers. But then I thought, as you said, this series could be a reference for others who are building this kit. I have already started the shorts series for this build which viewers can use as a sort of index to find the long form video with the details they want. I am also considering making a full build video for the Roma from all the footage I collected during that build and then doing the same for this model when it is complete.

Pennant51 gets all the credit for the guide, I am just following his instructions. If it wasn't for his guide I would have just built this ship as it came in the box.

@@DavidsShips Too modest. If you hadn't rattled his metaphorical cage he probably wouldn't have updated it. A bit of cause and effect.

Tripod masts always seem to be a problem with ship models. I don't think I have ever encountered one that works really well. In the case of this model, the area is so heavily modified at this point that if I mess it up it will be entirely my fault.

That was a long time ago so I can't be sure. If I look at pictures online of an unpainted hull and compare, I would say that I painted it at the very top of the lower piece.

It is a mixture of Tamiya XF-5 and XF-2. I was trying to match the colour of Humbrol Enamel Matt 101. You can see the video on that here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gdB9edqH26i5Zqc.html

@@DavidsShips thank you

Yip.

There are a great many types of CA glue. I mostly use CA glue from BSI, bsi-inc.com. The thin CA glue that you see run into corners is BSI Insta-cure Super Thin.

You have no idea! Wait until I start on the corrections to the corrections.

@@DavidsShips 😂

I have been using EZ Line for around four years, I have not had a problem with it deteriorating. All of my models are displayed in a cabinet that never receives direct sunlight, that might have helped them. I also rarely handle the models, they get a cleaning once a year. During cleaning I almost always knock something off but I don't specifically remember rigging coming loose. I do somewhat expect glue to become fragile over time and consider re-attaching bits that have fallen off to be part of maintaining the model. There are other products like EZ Line but I haven't used them. EZ Line is readily available to me, the others are more difficult to get hold of.

If you are fine with the smaller PE, the larger PE won't be a problem. If you want to see intense PE construction watch the Schwerer Gustav playlist.

I thin it with Mr Color Rapid Thinner. I first tried to thin it with Mr Color Levelling Thinner but it makes it take a lot longer to fully dry. Any lacquer thinner should work. I thin it differently depending on if I am using a brush or airbrush. When applying it with a brush I do not thin it much, if at all. My surfacer was very thick in the bottle. To airbrush it I had to thin it a lot. I add as much thinner as required to get to the same consistency as paint when airbrushing.

@@DavidsShips thanks David. My default would have been to use Mr Color levelling thinners so I'll try tamiya lacquer thinner instead (the non levelling kind).

Right! That was my thought too. My thinking was that levelling thinners would help it flow into the scratches. It turns out it just makes it take forever to dry.

Ahm the one with the pointy metal tube bit?

It is sold in a blue plastic container with a metal tube. The tube always gets blocked so I decant it into a glass jar and apply it with a brush.

That's the one.

@@DavidsShips ok thanks lads the usual one. David confused me by using a brush. It used to come in a glass bottle with a brush. Maybe it still does?

Unfortunately, I started this channel after I began building Roma so I don't have any video of the construction from before this video. Having said that, I do seem to remember the fit of the hull pieces being very bad. It required a lot of filling and sanding to get the upper hull to fit properly on the lower hull. If you like, you can send pictures of the fit to my channel email address. Maybe seeing images will remind me of something I did when constructing the hull.

Thanks!

I don't think so, at least not for me. I find tracing and cutting a clean edge to be frustratingly difficult, even with the chopper. I think it is much easier to get a clean edge by building a frame out of styrene that is easy to bend and then filling the center.

Thanks!

The ring binder punch was a game changer. If it didn't think of that, I don't know how I would have made the modifications.

This is the simple photo-etch, wait until I build the light AA!

Thanks! I am glad you are enjoying it.

It is the NWSL Chopper II.

I am very happy with how it turned out. PE windows would have been nice. I had a good look through my stash of excess PE from other models, but I couldn't find anything that fit well.

Thanks! You have no idea how many times I tried to say that sentence.

Thank you!

Thank you!

What is 4.0 work? I am not familiar with that saying.

@@DavidsShips , a grading system used in American schools. 4.0 is outstanding, A-1, top drawer. Then it drops from there. A 3.0 grade average is a “B”, etc down the line.

Oh, I should have thought of that! I was thinking 4 out of 5 stars or 4 out of 10.

@@DavidsShips Jeez, David. You have to know this work is no 4 out of 10 'stars', and it is also better than 4 out of 5 'stars' 😀 Definitely Valedictorian work

Thank you! I used the colours recommended by Tamiya. The colour I think you are referring to is XF-53.

@@DavidsShips Thanks for the reply. Yes, Tamiya recommends XF-53 (Neutral Grey), but yours looks more blue than my XF-53. I ended up mixing equal parts XF-53 and XF-50 (Field Blue) and am finally satisfied! I'm enjoying your series on the Hood, by the way. Keep up the good work!

There is also an interesting story like this for the Yamato. When the Yamato fired its main battery the overpressure would severely injure, possibly kill, anyone not in cover. This meant that the AA gunners would have to remove delicate equipment and seek shelter before the main battery fired. What makes the situation even more strange is that the main battery could fire airburst shells and be used as super-heavy AA. But, if the main battery was used as AA then a lot of the light AA would have to stop firing every time the main battery fired. Moving to the absurd. Pilots who experienced AA fire from Yamato's main battery said they were easy to predict and avoid. They didn't create much of a deterrence. So you have the scenario where in a desperate situation Yamato would use its main battery to fire ineffective AA shells but to do that would have to disrupt firing light AA guns that were more effective. Battleships are crazy. That is why I like them.

Thank you!

Glad you liked it!

I will look up that video, I haven't seen it.

@@DavidsShips Unfortunately Jasons whole Warspite series (in which I saw that technique) has been taken offline for now

My understanding is that the actual colours are unknown, there are only estimates. I would be interested to hear what @Pennant51 has to say about these paints.

@@DavidsShips No. They have the actual original formulae from the company that painted Hood.

It is nice to have you! The Chopper is a very useful tool. I introduce it in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/npmVmLuhmsfJiGg.htmlsi=H3BnkH4Ih6mAJq4z The quickest way to catchup on this build series is to watch the shorts. The shorts summarize the full length video in a minute or less. You can use them as a sort of index and they are linked to the full length videos.

I'm glad you are enjoying it!

I can see how that could work. Thanks!

Thank you and welcome! I am happy to have you here.

Thanks!

The wind baffles turned out better than I expected. I thought it was going to be a nightmare but they were surprisingly cooperative.

@@DavidsShipsI think it went well because you thought it out logically before you started. It was a very tidy job. I'd have dived right in without a plan and it might have been third time lucky if I was lucky. I must admit too that I hadn't even noticed the baffles.

This is a build progress video for a model of HMS Hood. I am not sure what you want more information on. This is the full length video corresponding to this short: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pauKeNKattWpYqs.html

You are finding my early videos now. At this point problems included getting what I was doing in frame, and then if I was lucky enough to get it in frame, getting it in focus.

I always like to hear that someone will be starting a ship build! Giving people encouragement to build ship models is one of the reasons I started this channel. Good luck with your build! If you have questions feel free to ask.

Nothing special, no-name brands really. For the airbrush it is important to use a gravity fed dual action type. Siphon airbrushes require a lot more paint to be loaded into the brush for it to function. A gravity fed airbrush can operate off a single drop of paint. Dual action is important so that you can control air separately from the paint. With a single action airbrush the air and paint is released with a single press. There is not enough control with that setup. With dual action you press down for air and pull back for paint. You can also control how much paint is released by how far back you pull the trigger. For the compressor you just need one with a regulator so that you can control the output pressure. A compressor with a compressed air reservoir is nice but not totally necessary. It is a quality of life improvement so to speak.