Right on, happy it’s gonna help you out. Appreciate the support.

Appreciate the support and props. Glad it helped ya.

Awesome, glad to hear the video helped you out. That’s the key, multiple style extensions and changing to different lengths as the plug comes out. Definitely plan to. I have more to come later this Summer for the Dodge Ram series.

Thanks. Appreciate the support.

Awesome glad it was useful and thanks for the support.

Thanks, glad it helped ya out. Haha yup, gotta love country living, better than shouting, emergency sirens and such.

You’re welcome. Glad it was helpful.

No problem. Glad it was helpful for ya.

Awesome, glad you found it useful

Thanks for the support, appreciate it.

Not a problem, keep up the good work

Glad it worked out for ya and helped out.

Thanks 👍🏻

Right on, glad it helped ya and appreciate the support. 👍🏻

Glad it helped. And definitely those two products have saved my ass and made jobs so much easier for me.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic putting the grease on the coil boot made it slip into hole some much easier. It was an adventure, and successful. The anti-seize gives me comfort as well. Aloha.

No problem. Glad it was of help.

Thanks for the sub! And you’re welcome 🤘🏻

Not a problem, glad it was useful.

Not a problem. Glad it was of service to ya.

Yup it’s all about the little things that make a difference. Getting any type of debris in there could lead to bigger problems that’s for sure. I’ve rebuilt a few engines where it looks like sand or debris got into the engine, literally sandpaper-ing the internals. Major thing to do if you off-road or live in a sandy/ windy area where debris can get in there and build up.

Air will now be your go to for everything lol I use it no matter what job needs done even if just to clean it off at the end of it all or clean the motor off without water. Even clear out carb lines etc.

Exactly, I’ve got multiple tips and air line extensions I can put on my airline as well to get into places. Super handy.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic for sure its handy for a multitude of applications. He'll wonder how he ever did without lol

If u keep your engine clean you won't need it

Thank you 🤘🏻

No problem. Glad it helped you out to make it easier.

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you and appreciate the support.

Thanks. What I aim for. Clean, simple and to the point.

Yeah, I’ve definitely fought with some coil-pack bolts in the shop a few times. Thankfully have never had any snap *knocks on wood*. And I can thank that to using an induction tool as well. They’re worth their weight in gold, even the cheap ones can still get the job done. Yeah they’re a little outta spec for sure huh, haha. Definitely be a night and day difference now with a more true and solid spark/ tune up.

Thanks, yeah there was a storm coming in as you can hear by the crazy amount of wind noise so I was pretty pressed for time since I needed to get this done while working unsheltered outside. I’m currently rebuilding this 4.7L right now and doing a power adder (supercharger or turbo) haven’t decided yet so I’ll be sure to do a quick Mechanic Pro Tip segment on how to do it. I’m still waiting to get ahold of a Ford F-150 to show the same trick as well to get the back ones.

You may wanna check the locking pin (the ball bearing) on your extension. It should be enough to hold onto the spark plug socket and not allow it to get stuck. Otherwise I would suggest a thinner wall spark plug socket for the job. They do have specific slim ones to avoid such issues as this from happening. You can also buy true locking extensions that have a slip lock on them that you manually lock and unlock. I have two sets that work amazing for my chrome and impact socket sets. Otherwise the other tried and true trick is to electrical tape the extension to the socket. Sounds ridiculous but it does work, I’ve had to do it when I was Heavy Duty working on forklifts and other equipment. Especially those where someone’s done damage to the spark plug cylinders. Hope this helps.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yes i was able to get that electrical tape tip yesterday here at youtube, i taped the socket today to the extension and looks pretty good. i dont have the courage to replace 8 spark plugs for my 2003 durango suv right now. there is an aluminun tube or pipe running right on top of one of the spark jpkugs, first one on the left if facing the car. i have not figured out how to remove it out of the way once i remove the airbox. thanks for responding.

Yup that trick is definitely a good one. Has helped me many a time back when I worked in the Heavy Duty field, even when it came to threading bolts in due to a tight space.

Replacing the engine would be the extreme thing to do without some considerable proof the engine is no good for the reason of needing a heavy overhaul or rebuild. The IACV is most likely the culprit in your case. You can easily remove it and clean it with MAF/ carb cleaner, don’t use brake clean as it’s pretty harsh stuff and can ruin sensor electrical/ plastic sensor housings. Also, if you are pretty certain the plugs are indeed the factory ones, I would definitely change them as you can have some rough idle and running issues from fouled plugs. With our 4.7’s you don’t need anything super fancy like the over the top expensive plugs. Our 4.7’s are just as happy to run the typical copper plugs. If you’re wanting something a little better, I recommend the ones I’m using in the video. I’m assuming you have no check engine lights on during this. Other possible issues can be a dirty or blocked air filter/ filter box as well. Make sure the intake box inlet is clear as well, it’s just behind the passenger headlight. Hope this helps. If you need any further information or other advice to follow up on if the issue is still persisting, feel free to reply back. Good luck.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thank you! You are correct NO check engine light and it only happens at low idle when applying very light throttle. I did replace the air filter and cleaned the filter box but I didn't clear the actual intake behind the light.... I will check that out for sure.I am not a mechanic but my son and I are having a good time figuring all this out together. We did universal joints on the rear axle and ball joints (upper and lower) last week. We will remove and clean the throttle body and while it's nice and open replace those plugs. Thank you again I will be watching for more tips.

Appreciate the support.

Like I mentioned in the video, with various sized extensions and a ratchet. Then remove the ratchet and simply remove by using your hand to turn the extension to gain more clearance. You will need to use various sized extensions to get back there.

No problem. Glad you found it useful.

Hello, so the idle stays at 600rpm and doesn’t fluctuate at all, even with input from the throttle pedal? How long has it been doing this and is there any idle/ rpm issues while driving? Does it stall out at all when shifted into neutral or drive?

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic I have a similar issue to this. I have a 2006 Ram 1500 5.7L HeMi 4x4, It starts and runs normal, everything work fine it just sits at 500, sometimes 0 and goes up to around 1500-1600 rpms when going about 60-70. Other than it not showing the correct rpms, it runs just fine and I have no issues in any gear. I figure it's the dashboard motor or the sensor chip in the instrument cluster. Everything else reads correctly. But also I'm not a mechanic so I don't know for sure lol

Yup, a fouling spark plug can definitely cause your RPM to bog down while stationary. Although, other reasons could be a poor condition/ failing spark plug coil, air filter being in poor condition, failing can/ crank sensors etc to name a few. The cheapest and easiest to deal with off the bat are the spark plugs. They’re abused daily/ they’re continually firing when the vehicle is running and can foul pretty easily if you’re vehicle is running rich especially. I would start with the plugs especially if your truck hasn’t thrown any codes for the other things I mentioned above. Hope this helps.

Also, once you’ve pulled the plugs, you can inspect them to see if there’s an other issues going on inside the engine such as say a fouling head gasket (you’ll notice the plug is green tinged or smell of coolant). Etc.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic Thank You for the reply man, I'm defiantly going to start with the Spark Plugs. Also a few months ago I did have to change the Crankshaft Censor if that would have anything else to do with it?

If you already had to change that, then there shouldn’t be an issue. Unless the harness got damaged or the connector didn’t fully clip and is now coming loose. I mentioned this in my Crank and Camshaft sensor install videos as I personally have dealt with this as a mechanic when people have replaced theres or gotten others to do so and the clip wasn’t fully engaged.

Misfire on Cylinder 3. You may have not connected the coil pack completely or the plug is gapped wrong. It can also be caused by a faulty fuel injector. Make sure the connector for the injector is okay and connected properly still as well. Reset the code and see if it comes back.

Thanks. And I’m assuming there was no starting issues before you swapped the plugs? If that’s correct, I’m gonna assume maybe there’s a coil pack not connected fully or the chance a fuse popped for some reason or another. Check fuses, confirm all coil packs are connected firmly and are snug on the spark plug as well, check crank/ cam/ air fuel sensors to make sure they didn’t become loose for whatever reason while working on the engine. You can also cycle the key three times fast to the ON position (DO NOT START) and leave the key in the ON position on the third cycle, to see if there’s a code popping up. It will show in the odometer section of the dash once you’ve cycled the key to the ON position for the third time.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic Its not showing any codes. Mine is an 06(not sure if there's a difference) could it be possible I got the packs mixed up?

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic and yes sir it ran fine before I changed the plugs.

@@sportfishtexoma9 If the coil packs were mixed up on reinstall, you’d typically just have it run properly or have a misfire (if one of the packs were faulty) and that misfire would move to whatever cylinder it was switched to. It’s really odd, I’ve never heard of or dealt with anything in regards to a no start situation from just simply changing plugs. Only way I can see such a thing happening is the sensors I mentioned before, fuse blew, to something was extreme as the fuel pump just happened to crap out at this time or the high end extreme the timing jumped and is now off. The fuel pump issue I’ve dealt with personally on my Ram, drove for 2 hours with no issues, stopped at a gas station, filled up, washed windows, hopped back in and she flat out died 8 feet later. The pump crapped out. I changed it in the parking lot right where she died. You can hear the fuel pump prime correct? Should be a buzzing noise from the bed area.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic okay, in the process I cleaned the throttle body while it was still attached with carb cleaner. Is this bad?

Yup that’s another great alternative for sure. Slipped my mind to use it in this impromptu video. Thanks for the support.

Here's the number one plug on the left or the right on an 04 Dodge Ram 4.7

On an 04 Dodge Ram 4.7 is the number one plug on the left or the right

The number one cylinder will be the driver side bank. Cylinder closest to the fan shroud. Firing order can also be found on the intake manifold. It’s stamped into the plastic right in front.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanicmui

Awesome! Good to see someone saving another Ram from the crusher/ left sitting to rot away. Excellent plan to drop the tank and replace the pump/ seals. I would drain any fluid left in the tank, flush with hot water and acetone. You can use a soft brush or equivalent remove any debris off the sides of the tank if you’re able to reach in through the pump opening. Let air dry to make sure there’s no moisture left in there before reinstalling. When it comes time to filling it up, I’d recommend some Premium fuel and fuel line/ injector cleaner. Drop the oil and change it along with a new filter. Take note of any debris in the drained oil. You can also leave the drain plug open and run a fresh couple litres of oil just to help flush any old stuff that maybe still in there. Close the plug and top up the oil. Pull all the plugs out and I suggest putting a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder to help lubricate. Then crank the engine over by hand with a long breaker bar and rotate the engine a few times (clockwise) when looking at the engine from the front of the truck. While doing so, listen for any noise you may hear or anything that could be of concern. Install new plugs and gap accordingly. Make sure you have coolant. Make sure the battery is good to go and has full voltage to crank her over. Confirm there’s no debris within the intake air box and ducting (mice love to make homes in there). If the old filter looks “okay” then use it otherwise replace it. Add the fuel like I mentioned above. Prime the fuel system a couple of time by cycling the key. You should hear the pump priming. Now that she’s primed, start her up. Once she’s started, take note of any leaks immediately. Make sure you have oil pressure on the dash gauge (we’re assuming it works), if no pressure, SHUT IT DOWN ASAP, gauge could be faulty or you could not be circulating oil at all. If all is well, listen for any odd noises, knocking, hissing, does the engine run smooth. Are there check engine codes/ lights on the dash. Hope this helps as a start to get ya going.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yes this is very helpful thanks so much. I'll keep you updated. Ive been spraying all the bolts down with pb blaster and letting em soak, just noticed oil all down the rear diff, looks like its coming from I believe its called the pinion seal? Where the driveshaft mates to the rear diff housing. Im going to get it running first, then b4 I drive it or move it ill tackle the diff issue. Looks like there may b a recall on them. I did find that it seems I lucked out with a 3.92 rear end which should pull my 5 quads very well on mostly flat lands with a few minor hills that being said I am watching your other vids and was wondering if you ever came to resolution on that forced induction option?

That’s a solid plan, snapping any bolts will definitely be a headache and you can guarantee they’re probably gonna be seized up since she’s sat for so long. Yeah she’s most likely leaking from the pinion seal, it’s not a massive job to replace but can be accomplished in an afternoon and a good chance to replace other bearings/ seals in there as well. Also a chance to inspect the rear differential gears for damage or issues. And for my truck, I’m leaning towards a supercharger. Utilizing a modified GM 3.8L Eaton M90 supercharger. Should gain me around 65HP across the power band at 6psi. Only downside will be added fuel consumption but I own a truck to be used as a truck haha, I also plan on building a flat deck unit for it this Summer and adding a slip tank in the rear for added fuel as well. The turbo charger setup is still appealing though, but the instant power of a supercharger will benefit me more in the offroad. I’m at the point right now where I’m just doing a lot of research on other guys that have done both power adders and weighing the pros and cons from their experiences. Out of the two, the supercharger setup is cheaper, will run me around $4,000CDN all said and done.

For the newer 4.7’s (2008 and up) they are indeed a 16 plug setup like the Hemi 5.7L Rams. Spark plug change interval is 48,000 kilometres on those 4.7L Rams. Bosch single Platinums are a heat range and a half hotter than the OEM Champions and from reviews on that engine Ram, they’ve given most users better idle stability, acceleration and mileage. If you’re comparing MOPAR and NGK as an option, I would honesty just stick with NGK and keep on top of the spark plug changes. Better performance and cash savings that way instead of shelling out a lot for higher priced MOPAR dealership plugs. Even better is if the plugs go on sale at your local parts store, buy a double set so you can swap them out and have another set in a drawer ready to rock when the next change comes up. This is what I do with our personal vehicles including for oil changes. Make sure to use a little anti-seize on the threads, copper ideally if you can find it. Hope that helps. And there is no difference from intake to exhaust side on the plugs if memory serves me right.

FR8TE2 is the top plug, bottom plugs are FR8TI332. Get them cheap on Rockauto.com these are the Bosch plugs that came from the factory.

@@jasonbeatty9567 perfect. Thank u

@@adrianmartinez5260 lowers only need changed every 100k miles.

Personally for myself it’s always just been a thing to start with the front and work back. Also, should you have an issue with the rear plugs, at least you’ve got majority already swapped in, rather than fighting with plugs that wanna give you issues right off the bat. Like breaking one or the plug is stripped out and just spinning.

Yup it most definitely can be, it can be a sign of a blown head gasket which is now allowing coolant into the cylinder. But! It can also simply mean water got up into the engine bay somehow (going through large/ deep puddles) and it flooded the spark plug cylinder. Less likely but it happens. I’m leaning more towards a head gasket issue being a possibility. Did you notice any discolouration like green and did it smell of coolant? That would confirm my diagnosis. Also checking the level of the coolant within the system (when it’s cold! Do not open the reservoir when hot) can also confirm there’s coolant leaking out of the system.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thanks, mechanic couldn’t figure out where water came and said most likely from head gasket. I plan to replace that just hope the engine wasn’t damaged too bad, runs fine just won’t start at times unless I give it some gas, fingers crossed

You may have just caught it as she’s started to fail which is a good thing. The issue hasn’t snowballed into something much more serious to the extent of causing further damage.

Yeah once you factor in shop labour and their markup on parts, it can get pretty same expensive. It really isn’t hard at all to accomplish.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic tried it this afternoon but was becoming too difficult to remove the connectors attached to the coil packs. I could try it again on Thursday if it won't hurt my engine to wait. If so, may have to get the shop to do the job.

Yeah those little connectors sometimes get clogged up with junk and they’re plastic too so they’re pretty brittle. Sometimes if you get in there with a pick or very small screwdriver to help push the clip in that helps. Also actually pushing the connector inward toward the coil helps to release it as well. You can also give it a shot of contact clean/ WD-40 to see if that helps. Doing this has helped me in the past as well. Good luck.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thanks, I'll give that a try.

Basically comes down to maintenance honestly. Can go forever if you keep up on it and don’t beat on them too hard, as with any engine. Mines got 732,000kms on her. All original and the engines never been opened up. Pretty good seeing as when I bought her at 420,000kms she was barely running on 6 cylinders and in rough shape. Since then I’m daily commuted her on the highway, plenty of long trips on the highway, off-roading, towing and hauling mixed in as well. I’ve had her parked now for the last two years, I did finally blow a head-gasket, have a little bit of the milkshake action in the oil pan one morning when I went to start her and she fell on her face after backfiring hard. I ran her hard scrap hauling for about three months straight, several loads way overweight I should add haha. I take full blame. Planning on doing a full rebuild later this summer and have her good to go for the Winter. Doing a down to frame restoration and rebuild along the way. Videos will be made and shown on here to aid those in need.

2007 1500 @275k

Yes there’s a wet torque and a dry torque value. This is why you only use a small amount and you do the classic “set the plug and snug it up method to a 1/4 to 3/4 turn” depending on plug size. Also using a proper torque wrench will avoid issues as well.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic Ok then thanks

I paid $1,600 for my Dodge Ram and she had 420,xxx kilometres on her, roofing company that was selling her originally wanted $5,500 but she was barely running. She’s now got 732,000kms on her as of last year. I haven’t driven the truck in the last year as I’ve been rebuilding her and the OEM head-gasket has started to let go. I paid $750 for one my CRV’s though if that’s what you’re referring to maybe?

Are you using a specific spark plug socket? They are thin walled and designed to go into the spark plug cylinder. You can’t use majority of regular chrome sockets since they are thicker walled in design. Most socket sets will come with two spark plug sockets that cover many makes and models.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic yea that's the problem I'm just using a regular socket .will need to get 1 of those today..

4.7L Rams are 8. The 5.7L are the 16 plug design.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic mine has 16 plugs and it's 08 4.7l

Nicholas Smith Ahh good catch, I didn’t notice the year that he’d posted, replied in a hurry more than likely. Correct, 2008 + 4.7L Rams have the twin plug design so 16 in all for the new designed engine. Copper plugs on the intake and Iridium plugs on the exhaust preferably.

Which tool are you referring to? I mentioned purchasing the spark plugs at your local parts stores or online. All other tools required are displayed and pointed out at the beginning of the video.

I apologize it was a different video channel guy was telling you to buy a special tool on Amazon for 10 bucks it makes it so much easier to get that back spark plug I thought it was this channel but I found the correct channel thanks for answering though I appreciate it

Oh okay haha, no worries. Using the various size extensions like I show on the table at the beginning can get the job done including accessing those rear plugs. If need be, you could also use a universal joint paired up with a 4-6” extension and ratchet to get them out of there as well. Personally I just use the shorter extension and has never given me issues.

List of tools is in the description of the video in the information section.

Update saw that. Can you do a full guide from Start to finish. As I am a complete noob at auto care and trying to save 300

This video is the complete guide from start to finish. But in short form. It is a little hard to hear me, I didn’t realize the microphone picked up the slight wind/ breeze that much till I uploaded it. Using the tools I provided in the description, and following the video. That should help ya out pretty quickly in saving that $300 for something better. And don’t let spark plugs scare ya. They’re honestly one of the easiest car care things the average person can do. Especially with these older Rams.

Pretty much the same process as my gas 2003 Ram 4.7L.

Haha true in regards to the older stuff where you could literally hop in the engine bay.

@@That_Bearded_MechanicThat tech was also MUCH less expensive to maintain over time vs. this over-engineered wunderkrap. It might not have been as "efficient" in terms of emissions, but in terms of the footprint they consumed in manufacturing, they were a decent trade off in practicality. My mint condition 77 Dodge Aspen wagon got 23 mpg at 4,000lbs, plus a family camping load, and never skipped a beat. Forgive me, but I do miss that car. As for those who argue that air pollution is less now because of all those sensors and chips, I would argue that it's partially that, but a lot more because of the export of the industries that produced the smog - to China - were it continues to this day. If all we're now making is paper work, then there should be no surprise the air quality is better. And that Garbage Patch out in the Pacific? That didn't come from the Ohio River Valley Rust Belt.

You’ll need to use the spark plug socket, an extension that’s 4-6” long and ratchet. You’ll be able to reach both of these closest to the firewall/ cabin in this manner. Once you have the air box assembly removed at the throttle body, you’ll see there’s plenty of room to swing a ratchet.

That Bearded Mechanic I ended up reaching in as far as I could and got em done. My shoulders are killing me and my knuckles have seen better days lol but I got it done. BTW this is the only video on KZfaq I could find that shows my exact engine layout. All the others are for HEMIs. Thanks for the reply man

No problem. Sorry for the late reply, would’ve been sooner but working out of province. And yeah I’ve noticed that, hence why I’ve kinda started this 4.7L Dodge Ram series for people that can find it useful.

That Bearded Mechanic it’s too bad I’m getting rid of my dodge. Your videos apply to my model exactly. Thanks again man. Have a good one

On the older V8 4.7L engines yes, on the newer 4.7L V8 Dodge Rams, they have the same plug design as the HEMI engines so 16 on those ones.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic thank you very much. i have 2009, looks like i have coil pack ones on top and 8 in the traditional plug spots by the exhaust manifolds darn technology...lol...no its been a great truck

Yeah I didn’t realize the wind was so bad on the mic, I even had a special cover on the microphone to help with that, didn’t work as great as I wanted.

Your criticism is noted for future videos. But this is about as straight forward, to the point and step by step as it gets besides me actually coming and doing the job myself haha. But I would also like to point out I’ve linked this video to several people who have zero experience when it comes to cars and working on them and they’ve stated this video has helped them with their Dodge Ram.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic it's a good video, it definitely helps, but you know, there is some guys that can't even change a tire or put oil in their car. 😊 But your video definitely helps!!

Yeah I apologize for that. It really wasn’t all that windy that day but the wind that was there got picked up by the microphone even with the buffer on it. I’m gonna do a voiceover sometime or the next time I do plugs I’ll record it within my shop.

Haha I typically just wear thin mechanics gloves whenever I’m doing anything in which I’m looking to protect my hands against, suspension work etc. Spark plug work, not too worried especially since the engine wasn’t hot.

Hes not a liberal, real men dont wear pussy gloves

What about just one plug?? I changed all 8 but there’s no sense in a video showing all 8 being changed as that would be long and drawn out, therefore boring to watch. The steps are literally the same for all 8 if that’s what you’re trying to point out. You can see I have a full set in the beginning of the video and I state the process is the same for the rest including how to access the rear “hard to reach” plugs.

Interesting as it runs amazingly well and has since I’ve always used NGK since buying it back in 2014. Hauls and tows on the regular, does off-roading as well along with highway commuting 3 hour round trip every day. Truck has 732,000kms on her and not an issue. To each their own, but I stand beside what I use on my vehicles as it’s proven and doesn’t give me an issue.

@@That_Bearded_Mechanic u are no mechanic if u do not use oem .O u so stupid u well not know what that means