@@user-tc2hu1mr3k yep, I fell faster! Still goes. It runs out of high gear in the video. My impression. I have done dyno testing of both DRs back to back. An issue is that the clutch gives up the grab at some point… I need to add extra clutch plates. New EBC plates and heavy duty Barnett clutch springs made a big improvement but only really strong for a couple rides before limiting the power. To be clear, I am not recommending this modification I like it and makes my own bike cool. A friend has built and owned the 900cc DR. Two friends have had the same bike. Lots of effort and expertise in that bike. Was it worth it? Each rider decides. I do love my DR.

I have a 16mm Brembo and yes the lever ratio and friction is better but the cylinder is bigger than ideal for the stock caliper. I haven’t found one I could adapt.

@@cogentdynamics cheers. Have heard of guys using 10mm brembos off ktm dirt bikes. I have arthritis in my hands so a lighter lever pull would be great.

Don’t know. I suspect the top speed will be very much the same as stock. Up hill and in a head wind it will improve. Gearing is a limitation as is the poor aerodynamic shape of the dual-sport. The 790 is designed for mid-range power. Top end hp becomes somewhat limited in the valve and port limits. The bike will go near 100 mph. That’s about it.

Side by side it is enlightening. For sure the CC expansion without multi cylinder, rpm limits and valve area (along with mechanical durability) have not going to have a ton of horsepower.

Does this engine have the oversized valves?

@@TheTroopertruck nope, I went with the stock valves. It would be interesting to see how the bike would perform with 650cc with high compression piston, a little hotter cam and the bigger valves with port improvements. In any case, in my opinion the engine HP will be a limited by the reliability. Power equals heat and stress on parts.

@@cogentdynamics thanks for the reply, I just acquired a 2009 dr650 with 112000km and am considering the 790 as it probably needs an engine rebuild, I was reading through your responses and wondering if the bigger valves may have helped with the heat problem as you said the free exhaust helped, I am not decided on spending the money on the cam. But also considered the high compression 650 build as well

@@TheTroopertruck keep in mind that your stock cylinder can be refinished like new for a couple hundred bucks. That and a high compression is a nice setup at a much more reasonable cost. The first video was (like a year or so) ran with a restrictive exhaust (I prefer quiet). Hot was an issue. Also, the clutch was slipping also as the big engine pushes everything. My other DR650 is still running stock and do still like that one fine also but without the worry.

bruh he is 23

I had one of those on the stock 650. It got obnoxious and later sorta shattered like glass after a number of years. Update, I added a f40 Suzuki GSXR can and the bike runs better and cooler than the choked off Leo Vince. Thanks for the comment!

hey Tom, if the "stick" is just near the bottomed position and they are smooth everywhere else, et can be the bottom cone (white plastic cone at the bottom of the fork assembly. that you can feel the sticking while riding it is almost certainly a misalignment of the fork. the spring forces go up as the forks go deeper into the stoke of the force has to be pretty high making them stay down. did the forks feel smooth on the bench? try loosening the 4 axle clamp nuts to a just snug state and at the same time loosen the top triple clamp (right below the handlebar) and bounce the bike standing next to it. After that, keep the bike balanced upright while re torquing those fasteners.

@@cogentdynamics Thanks! They feel great when riding, I only notice this sticking when pulling up at a traffic light or a stop sign, when I'm gliding in and trying to show no rebound in suspension. On the bench they felt great, and I did exactly as you describe when installing the forks in the triple tree and hookin up the wheel. The bike handles great, and I only notice this sticking when rolling to a smooth stop. Sounds like it's that white plastic cone. Should I just disassemble and reset all the internals? I used a magnet tipped rod to be sure the valve was properly placed (and right side up :^ ) and I feel reasonably confident everything is assembled correctly. Pumping the assembled tubes before installing, they both felt smooth. I'm mechanically paranoid and took a couple of days to do this, going insanely slow to make sure all was lined up right and nothing left out. The bike tracks true, with zero wobble at any speed and I have put a couple thousand miles on it since this rebuild. Probably 4-500 of them on forest roads. The guy I bought it from had installed a couple of giant nuts on top of the springs as extra spacers (which went in the trash). It had under 2K miles on it when it came to me 23 months ago... 19k on it now. When assembled, the cap threads started easily with almost no gap against the springs (the first quarter turn needed no pressure). Seemed sensible. sigh. Thanks again. I'll be up to visit Jonathan and Janet this spring, and will make it a point to visit your shop.

@@tommeyer6033 i doubt the bottom cones are the issue as they only can do that just before a hard bottoming. Try spraying the fork tubes with a silicone or PTFE lubricant to see if it temporarily relives seal frictionnotable in the specific riding conditions you discussed. A fair amount of Johnathan’s shop seems to be over here at the moment! 😜

Whine much?

Last I looked, it was around 54hp w/50 ft/lb of torque

@@SmalltimR My calculation were bad. Should be more like 10hp. Quite abit of money for only that much more horsepower?

@@authentic4225 According to ProCycle's dyno chart, a stock DR puts out roughly 36hp, whereas the big-bore puts out 54, for a difference of about 18hp. Though I think it's important to note that HP is not as significant as torque in such applications, and that 52 ft/lb of torque is rather intense for a 370lb bike. With that said, I'd love to see the hp from a big valve kit, cam and larger carb coupled with the big bore. I'm guessing closer to 60hp when all is said and done :) ps. for contrast, the Tenere 700 which is a much heavier bike, puts out around 44lb/lb of torque at the wheel

I haven’t seen 50hp on the Dyno. I am still struggling with getting the clutch to hold. That an another project!

Man that sounds like it must've been stressfull

@@Sicceru Yes, it can be for sure. I bring a small booster pack with me most times I go out now.

@@markalan4026 Yeah thats a good idea, especially if you're in a remote area

this has inspired me to pick up a jump starter when i go get a dr in one or a few months

@@johjoh4571 Glad to hear that, it is definitely a good investment. With how far battery technology has come in recent years, it really just makes sense to have one around. The one I have is powerful enough to jump start my truck several times before needing to be recharged, and yet, it's weight and size is small enough to easily carry in the backpack. You can get them the size of a cellphone now without spending a lot of money.

Where have you heard that?

“Worth while” is a difficult thing to think about. I actually bought a second DR since i like the simple and rock solid stock bike (with suspension, seat and bigger tank...). The 790 has an FCR carb, cam and a little head work. It’s a toy. I really enjoy it and it is a DR, just better. Tires dont last at all 😇. The bike makes more power and thusly more heat. I have to watch the temperature, particularly at low speeds like first gear slipping the clutch slow. Taller gearing has been nice so the bike spends more time pulling between shifts. I think it helps the bike be even faster. Worth it for me! It wouldn’t be a mod i would do if i were riding around the world. I am giddy when riding it. Thanks for watching my video.

@@cogentdynamics Thank you for the swift reply. Glad to hear the 790 is still running well.

Procycle cam and a good valve job with some minor port work done by a good friend of mine.

U kind of have to

FCR39 carb.

Okay really? Cool. Been riding that road regularly since the early 90s.

Thank you for your kind reply! Videos are obviously not my strength but seeing such nice comments are very inspirational to me.

Thanks for the kind words! I just changed back to the stock 15:42 final drive vs the 14:43. I think the bike is faster on acceleration and now is super comfortable cruising at 70 mph (calibrated trail tech indicated). Really not too bad up to 80. The bike wants to be over 50mph on mountain roads before fifth gear is selected. Not the "performance" shift point at full throttle to 5th gear is in the high 60s to even 70 mph. I'm liking it. I need to ride it more. May make another short video.

@@cogentdynamics Got it! Thanks for the response

Is that good or bad? 😊

How? You want something that sounds like a sewing machine get a bmw twin. This sounds beastly

Best part. My moded dr gets lots of attention at lights and gas stations

What dont you like about the tm40?

I have freewind with jet kit and cams..same at traffic lights situations))

Worse than before... eats tires for breakfast...

@@cogentdynamics hahaha

I know the feeling.

If I wasn't so camera shy I'd make time more... thanks Will!

If you're speaking of the brush guard s, they are Enduro Engineering and they are the best in my opinion. They did not take any cutting and provided clearance for the levers and cables. There are a few options but mine are on pro taper bars. I use them on both DRs and my KTM.

Thank you for the kind words! Much more to do. Budget constraints are always the limiting factor. Needing a clutch now...

I m using an over size rotor, excellent pads and a Brembo radial master. More better would be great!

Not sure! Don't need it often for sure. I know it's not good for the pusher! 😊

The bike is subject to way more abuse during normal operation, don’t see how you can come to that conclusion.

@@dancarlos1216 the sudden engagement of the engine is not good for engine as a whole the chain specifically

@@fakhrikhorchani4888 it’s no different than using the starter.

@@dancarlos1216 when using the starter you are on neutral but the very moment you push it on second gear, every thing starts at once. Don't know maybe I am mistaken but I wouldn't use it very often.