@@WaffleCries because tf that is a common knowledge. Plug in a tool and activate lpfp or run a test plan in ISTA.

@@WaffleCries because tf that is a common knowledge. Plug in a tool and activate lpfp or run a test plan in ISTA.

@@yamaccandan1 it could be. Easy to examine the seal and replace. I use a thin bead of Hylomar sealant on it. Top turbo feed line could be a culprit too. Drains leak rarely. But I suppose with age anything will need attention. If you have a larger leak it could be the valve cover gasket. It’s a maintenance item. If you want to be preventive you should do it at about 100k miles or 150k km.

@@alphadevyat Thank you very much

@@chrisbullen4317 yeah it’s a horrible location. Nothing stops anyone from relocating it.

Absolutely. 3000rpm plus load is when the switchover happens.

I would check all the boost pipes too. Could be intercooler seals or intake manifold. Sometimes it’s really simple and turbo is just old and tired.

@@alphadevyat I am going to take the car to a smoke test to check for leaks, I am also thinking the waste gate on big turbo maybe is not working correctly

@@alphadevyat I have changed the MAP sensor and replaced all pressure converters, now the car hits 1.8 boost which is perfect but at around 3500 rpm the boost goes down to 1.4 and towards the limit redline is getting to 1.6, I have also made the smoke test and I have no leaks, I have tested the actuators either a vacuum pump and they are moving the rod okay, and they also hold vacuum, what else can it be I am desperate as I am having this issue for 3months + and cannot find the issue

@@alphadevyatI took out the turbos, the wastegate is tight when is closed, seems good, the bypass plate and switch over valve they both look okay, the turbo does not have much play, everything looks good on turbo side, what else can it be? Please help😫😫😫

@@eduardtilita321 have you tested or replaced EV valves for compressor bypass and motor mounts. Have you monitored what happens with vacuum readings as you drive and hit that 3500rpm where you are drop in boost. What about making sure you routed all your vac lines and there are no kinks.

Correct. If it does not hold vacuum at the input nipple it needs a replacement.

Not reusable.

What's is a contact for you guys? If I may ask?

Glad you found it helpful

I’m sure you can find someone local. There are experienced people around.

Not really. But theoretically it’s possible as your efficiency would drop and AFR goes lower.

There is a parameter for AFR for the M57 motor but I find it’s hard to read. Depending on what you are trying to diagnose you better off looking at boost vs the EMP values.

Thank you so much for your raply My engine is m54B30 .. if you have email address can i text you if you thank you so much

According to TIS they are the same. Just checked.

@alphadevyat Okay thank you very much I will be performing this repair as soon as the thermistor shows up

Do you break the return line nipple? If so yes your car will not start and you need to replace the whole line.

Yes one of return line plastic ,black peace is broken not whole but part of it , and now im getting fault code raill preasure at start 4B90 ,you think its a reason why its not starting ?

@@superplayerunknown729 I would assume that the reason you were removing the return line is to remove an injector or a few. If so, you would need to bleed the fuel system by running a bleed function in ISTA that will activate the LPFP and bleed the rail. So your car should start but the return line will see fuel pressure in it, not huge but if a nipple is broken you will see fuel dripping from it. Also your injectors will not work very well as they need that backpressure to operate properly. Best is to replace the return line. Not difficult but you gotta watch a nipple it connects to on the return feed and get a proper clamp.

Thank you for your answer ,i will try all you said ,and i let u know if that helped 👍

No fault codes? Do you have a factory DDE software.

@alphadevyat hi thanks for replying. No fault codes stored and I have just got the car. I don't believe it is factory software as my gearbox is mapped displays D1 D2 etc.

@alphadevyat checked switch over valve it moves with car on then after a min of being off it retracts. But not smoothly a little slowly. Would you say to change pressure converter? I also never changed 3 vac pipes towards the back of the engine. I am going to do these when I get some more pipe

@@MegaUsmanZ transmission tuning is a separate thing. So it’s not an indicator. But if the car is not stock then you really can have anything. I would give it a comprehensive go over to make sure you have a good car. Not cool for a seller to sell car with issues. For the pressure converters my policy is to change them if you don’t know their age or mileage. Go for original bmw or a Pierburg ones.

@alphadevyat I bought from auction so not sellers issue or anything. Car has ran fine for 800 miles and all of a sudden this. Before was showing 640nm top end torque now won't show more than 400nm and 0.6 bar boost. I'm thinking to do pressure converters. Is it necessary to do the 3rd solenoid too? Can't find a part number for that. Mileage is 75k miles and the condition of the pipes were not that great so I assume the PC are original. 2011 car

That is just to show I’m not activating with a key.

@@alphadevyat sure, u dont have second key.. so how to do that??

@@zygasz-game well of course everyone has a second key. But this is a kick to open sensor.

@@alphadevyat so , pls share how you made that

@@zygasz-game bmw factory sensors and control box from any car like F11 that came with it. Plus Lin-bus emulator and wiring. Quite simple to be honest.

Correct it’s a mistake in the diagram EL valve straight nipple is always a vacuum input and side nippple is an output in this case would go to motor mount feed.

Ok thank you! I'm struggling trying to find out why I'm getting the 4530 code..I have a 2011 X5 35D E70. - replaced all vacuum hoses (passenger side, driver side and the two going under the car from the passenger side) - replaced all boost converter sov's, ev actuators (passenger and driver side) - verified motor mount EL valve holds / works - turbo switch over actuator / vacuum box holds vacuum and that the rod actuates / moves..and the pressure converter works as well - cleaned MAF - tested compressor bypass vacuum actuator toward the front of the car (switch over from low/high pressure turbo)..holds vacuum - tested wastgate - tubing one the passenger side that goes underneath engine. Holds vacuum - confirmed wastegate holds vacuum and actuates/ moves correctly - confirmed all sov's and ev actuators work - confirmed vacuum accumulator box holds vacuum - confirmed vacuum pump works, no leaks, pulls 30" vacuum pressure. All 3.5m hoses are new and each tested - replaced intake pipe going into turbo and ccv hose - confirmed motor mounts hold vacuum - replaced thermostat - replaced valve cover and gaskets - replaced intake manifold gaskets - replaced exhaust backpressure sensor and cleaned pipe/tubing - changed engine old and filter

Btw...it's def/egr/dpf deleted

@@adrianfuentes4881 the pressure converter that was used to control LP EGR, where is that at now and what happened to the feel line to it.

It was completely removed. It used to t-off from the vaccum feed line to the egr and toward the accumulator box. All the vacuum hoses have been replaced with silicone and now it just runs from the feed line to the pressure coverters / accuumulator. The delete was performed about a year ago by an indy.. everything has been fine until about a month ago. I did notice that the pressure converter that is next to the motor mount EV on the drive side under the intake manifold goes to the front near where the EGR cooler used to be and goes under the passenger side engine and connects to what I think is the AGR? I connected a pump and the line isn't pulling a vacuum while on idle.. not sure if isn't even still needed with the delete and all.. I'm stumped🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️

Compressor bypass switches the airside of turbos from small to large output.

@@alphadevyatMy vaccum is not conected there but the small turbo works great, can this be a problem becose i do not have the vaccum conected there?

@@100cosma you have elaborate where are you referring your vacuum is not connected. Vacuum system is closed loop and you can not have any open connections or you will have leaked and it will affect the whole system.

I mean i do not have the vaccum connectrd to the bypass compressor but the turbos works great

@@100cosma if the vacuum feel is closed your turbos will work great up to 3200rpm then you will be choking them.

Yes. It was done on the active tank of the E70 X5 diesel with M57 North American motor and urea system.

Generally no.

@alphadevyat I only ask as I've recently purchased a 2014 335d and it's using about a liter of oil per 400 miles but is still very responsive, I took the breather hose off and it's covered in oil. It's a little smoky under hard acceleration but then again it is running a stage one map so some smoke is to be expected. Any ideas what else could cause this?

@@RiskyProspect pluggged DPF. Bit you say it’s smokey. So with DPF you should see no smoke. What is the emp reading ratio against boost.

Yes you can bleed it with Protool.

@alphadevyat Awesome! Thank you for the quick reply, and for the video! It was very helpful 👍🏼

Definitely now. If you have oil out of exhaust it’s likely your turbos are bad.

I have not seen that parameter.

@@alphadevyat i did some ignition tuning whit romraider but it did not drawn the table so i used test0 to make 2d map out of those ignition knock correction logs, its just bit of hassle to use two programs.

Thank you I appreciate it. I have sold my X5 and my friend that we did videos together with is really unwell after Covid and vaccination. So we can’t work of things together anymore.

​@alphadevyat my friends you are missed dearly! I have benefited so much from you two. I have always shouted you guys out. I have wondered where you were? Thanks guys for your contributions to our community. In my thoughts guys!

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Idle to 3-4K rpm not moving will not do anything. You need boost. Test when driving. Or test through an ISTA test plan for compressor bypass.

Valve has to hold vacuum. Make sure you test in the correct nipple.

thank friend if l did the teston the wrong line now l did it correcty l turned on the bus and there it was at 29 perfect then l turned off the bus and it did not maintain the vacuum what could be the problem?

l also tested the EGR valve and it is perfect