I installed last week only. No issue thus far. Amazon has quite good reviews.

2018

Approximately 1 qt

59500 miles

Glad it helped!

Nop, not at all

Yes, im

Very welcome

Welcome 👍

Yes, rear side

I did not remove the battery or considered it for that reason. However, probably removing the battery would have been a better idea to get more easy space to work with the fill plug. If you are trying DIY then I will suggest trying removing battery or nearby other housing to get more access to the fill plug.

@@kulkarnipb Tried accessing the fill hole plug today. The fill plug is angled forward slightly towards the front of the car. Air box is situated towards the front of the car from where the fill plug is. So, removing air box makes more sense. BUT, in practice, the best I got to, was “loosening” the airbox. Top half was entirely moved out of the way. But bottom half has a bolt UNDER the airbox that ties it to the frame. Even when I managed to ninja-maneuver my hand with a wrench or ratchet onto the bolt, I just did not have enough space sideways to even turn the handle. At least with the airbox loosened, it indeed was easier to angle the 18” extension in a way that fully meets the torex bolt. Took a lot of strength to crack open the plug. For a moment I though I was gonna break the 3/8-drive extension. Now I know I can open the fill plug, rest of the task can proceed. Got 7 bottles of the ATF. Awaiting the O-ring that goes on the level plug; two of that on order, arrives in 2 days. (Without having a new o-ring in hand, I don’t want to risk opening up those level/drain plugs…) When all parts arrive and I get on with the real task, I might still remove the battery, so can reach and wipe-clean the fill plug area. I don’t want to knock dirt into the fill hole when trying to snake the funnel/tube into that hole.

Adding to this message thread, so it's easy for folks to find info. (I'm too lazy to film/edit a video on this 😅) The bottom half of the air filter box is likely held down by 3 snap-in bushings. The bolt I saw, but could not turn, is a mounting bolt that secures the bushing bracket to the frame. Simply wiggling and yanking out (forcefully) the bottom half of the air box, "should" be able to pull it out entirely. This is assuming Mazda used same approach between CX9 and CX7. See this video from "Auto Repair Guys" on a CX7 as reference: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gKdkh8Wp3JnTn58.html Highly recommend to do it this way. We'd have far easier access to the Torex 55 bolt for the transmission, as well as able to clean that area before opening that bolt. (So dirt doesn't fall into the transmission cavity when attempting to refill fluid.) Good time to change engine air filter too.

@@kulkarnipb Wanted to say THANK YOU again for this wonderful video. Successfully changed out 3 quarts and 8 fl oz of ATF today. Couple of tips for folks: Since this is supposedly a sealed lifetime transmission, Mazda does not have torque spec on any of these 3 bolts. So when you remove them, you really need to pay attention how much force you used to loosen each bolt --> That's how you'll judge how hard to torque them back later. The top side (fill plug) is the hardest to crack open. Just comparing by hand-feel: I routinely torque my wheel lug nuts to 80 ft lbs. That top side torex 55 felt like in the 100~120 range, possibly more. Used a breaker bar and a pipe; roughly 3 ft radius, and it was still tough. Folks really need to be holding down the extension bar, HARD, so the torex tip does not strip. When putting it back, I did not dare to really torque that high, and applied what I felt was in the 50~60 ft lbs range. The level plug is REALLY easy to torque off; regular rachet would do it easily. The drain plug is slightly harder than level plug to torque off. I had both a breaker bar and a pipe --> radius is roughly 2~2.5 ft. With that much leverage, it was an "easy crack" to loosen the bolt. Anyone that want to replace the O-ring on the level plug/bolt, for 2012 CX9 the part number is 19-852. You're best off to call your dealer's parts dept, and give them your VIN; that way they really get you the correct O-ring. My o-ring came out looking in really good condition, so I ended up not replacing it. Saved the new o-ring for the next ATF change, in case I need it.

valid point. I will do the next video based on that.

@@hameedo1991 thank you 😊 he said the same thing. much appreciated 🙏

About 90k

Yes