Thank you. Very good video

Wear and tear over time causes backlash, but I also think a lot of manufacturers are more concerned with getting products out the door as fast as they can ($$$), rather than spending a little more time machining items to fit. Mass production is only good to a certain extent. Wondering what the cost/time difference would be to machine ball screw threads as opposed to regular threads ?

How much does it cost?

¡Gracias por compartir!

carrier 6:24

Its a live center when its in the headstock... those are not starter drills, they are center drills, strictly for drilling centers... they make specific spotting drills... You should probably learn what you're talking about before attempting to "teach" others. Now 25 Thousand people are officially dumber.

Very helpful, thank you

Thanks for this

Terrific. Thank you

May I ask , sherline has CNC ready slides with headstock and motor , is this possible to mount them on the milling machine and have all on one bed rather than purchasing a separate CNC lathe ?

I'm also trying to decide which unit to buy

Thanks 👍

I’ve got a new Sherline lathe coming next week, and looking forward to learning it after years of using larger lathes for several years! I’m also looking forward to accumulating the accessories that I’ll need for my purposes. That being said, I don’t feel like the threading kit will be part of that armada of tooling! Too many steps to using it vs tap & dies! But I thank you for producing this video to show the steps necessary to use it! Really enjoying your channel even though the vids were made years ago. It all still applies!

Thanks for this video. It was highly informative and exactly what I needed. The user manual for this is surprisingly absent from the starrett site.

Man, I spent an hour trying to find a user manual for this and came up empty. I scored this exact indicator on eBay recently, and was unsure if those the different parts were actually made to come apart. The "elbow" part was so firmly held by the flat bar that I was afraid I would break it if I turned it any harder. Now I just need to find a part number for that little ball nut and I'll be able to sleep at night. :)

If you want to get rid of chatter, buy a real lathe, not a toy!

Got the body clamp on, now how do you get it off

How would you bore a 15mm bore on a drive wheel?

Thank you so much . I never tought it could be done (couldn't figure out this mickeymouse multi-gear 'system' at first and had put it away ). Now just fabricated a M14x1.0 / M12x1.5 adapter for my motorcycle crank puller ...and it worked ! , Well , second time out . The newer models have aluminium gears , I still don't quite trust it (yes, it slipped cogs so I had to be less aggressive second time out , but thanks to your video I finally got it through , and saved a lot of money.

noone ever talks about squring up to the hole or not so on. iam tryin to learn this stuff. anypone know of a better video on all the details needed to do a str8 hole

7:00 Just a note: indicating as you have, you have only established that the rest is snug against the part, and the part itself is round. It makes no difference whether or not the far end of the part is centered on the chuck, it will show very little TIR if you just rotate the part while indicating in one spot. If you must be truly on center (so as to avoid tapered diameters), you must indicate axially along the length of the part, both vertically and horizontally, assuming your bar is reasonably straight. An easier, faster, less precise, way to do this is to use a center in the tailstock (or a reverse center, if you don't want to/can't drill a center hole, but you will then have to chamfer the end) to hold the part centered, then adjust the steady rest to the centered part, removing the center to work on the face, etc. You could also mount your indicator onto a live center and rotate it around the end of the part. Admittedly, most of the time being completely centered is unimportant for steady rest work, since where-ever it is it will still cut concentric, and a small amount of taper is likely to be acceptable., but if you have a lot of turning to do on the end of a part, and the rest is quite out from the chuck, it can cause the part to work itself loose from the chuck.

Thank you for explaining how opposing nuts take out backlash! Your demonstration of this was perfect and your camera work was awesome! I watched the Sherline factory video on this and read the factory instructions but couldn’t understand what was going on. Now I see what’s happening and understand how to adjust the system.

Thanks! Answered some of my questions'

Didn't you make your own cnc lathe - with an automatic tool turret?

Your videos are Awesome - I really wished that you would return to making them.

Excellent. Could you please also recommend workshops /drawing projects for learning

Mach 3 & 4 software.

Nice presentation

Where did you go? You stopped making videos some years ago and nothing since. I can only assume that you lost interest OR you have heath issues OR life changing issues that a prevented you from continuing. I wish you would respond and clarify ???

What is you pen marker??

Hi! Very informative videos, I have learned a lot about Sherline machines. I have a question. What are the tables and slides made of on these machines? Thanks!

3:29 i see the endmill moving 👀💀

Great video. Thank you.

Much appreciated :-)

Those stroboscopic tachometer discs are obsolete. Why? Because all LED bulbs and fluorescent ballasts made in the past decade or so first rectify and filter the AC voltage, then pulse that voltage at a high frequency to control the current through the LEDs or the fluourescent tube. Same thing goes for compact fluorescent bulbs. The only way you can get these to work is by finding or making a light source that is powered by the AC directly, that causes the light to pulsate at the line frequency. There ARE such things available: the plug-in testers that tell you if your outlet is wired correctly generally use neon bulbs that connect to the outlet with simple resistors. These don't put out much light, though, so you can only use them in this way in relatively dark surroundings. I see that xyzzy1944 also reached this conclusion. I also see that this video is 7 years ago, at which time it may have been possible to find fluorescent ballasts that were the old-school type, but again, it's been longer than that that high-efficiency lighting has become popular.

Is there ANYWAY to get in touch with you?? I tried your Website but didn’t see anyway to get a message to you there either? I own all the EXACT SAME EQUIPMENT you own & have benefited SO MUCH from your videos💯🙏💯 But I’ve got a few other questions that I know you could help with… I’d pay you? Thx Lee

I’ve had problems with that same vice, keeping the piece tight. Or getting the vice tight? Any suggestions?? Thanks, ZenModeling

Who the hell can afford to buy anything from sherline. I just wanted the 3 locking hand wheels, rotary table and the hold down clamps.

Another excellent video for the Sherline equipment owner💯💯 . I also noticed that my WW Lathe Collets set fit the Mill (making total sense since it’s same headstock) but in all honesty, I PREFER the LATHE attachment DrawBolt with the Knurled Round Hand-Tightening Knob -vs- what you get with the Sherline into Mill Collet set. [U know what I mean]?? 👉For the life of me I don’t see ANY REASON why the lathe collet setup would be harmful or a long term issue for use…Can U? 👉BTW: I just noticed the QCTP “A2Z” that your rocking in a video. Can you please tell me where you purchased that, cost & if your happy with it. I’ve purchased just about EVERYTHING as far as attachments & tools for my 2010 Mill & 4100 Lathe with the exception of the Sherline’s QCTP very expensive attachment😉 Again Great job on All your videos, U R MY GO-2 Source for Sherline machine info💯 Cheers ZenModeling

The bushes inside the saddle are a (tightish) slip fit. A BBQ skewer is sufficient to push them out, though you might need a gentle tap to get past the face of the saddle.

man where did you find that morse#1 indicator holder at? I could really use that, I mean I guess I could make one but I really like it

Could make it into a shot glass. . .

Appreciate your evaluation. One thing that you do not see often in Sherline videos is a catalog of modifications necessary to make the machine usable. (Compare videos on the Chinesium competitors at the low end of the price range.) The trade-off is the 3 1/2 capacity versus being within a reasonable spec out of the box.

Great Video!!! What type of boring tool can I use to enlarge an 18mm hole to 24mm in 4140 steel on mini lathe?? Thank you

Great video, answered every question I had on dimensions and what came in the package.

I own that same Mill setup from Sherline. Quick Question, I’ve been looking at those accordion Way Guards you have on the mill. Do they get in the way?? I ask because a buddy said he purchased them, but took them off stating they were a PITA during use… 🙏Thank U for explaining this process 🙏 Well Done💯 ☯️ZenModeling☯️

I purchased A preowned “Last Word” like in your video. But it was missing the section you have in the tool holder side. 😗 The EBay add failed to disclose that fact & when I purchased it a year ago I didn’t know what I was looking at. I asked a buddy if $70 was a good deal for the Starrett “Last Word” indicator & he said get it. Great Job on Video!! I picked up several new things from viewing it! 🙏Thank U Sir🙏 ☯️ZenModeling☯️

I can absolutely confirm sherline customer support is bar none, I accidentally double ordered something and they no questions asked refunded me and had me ship the old item back

Thank you so much!

Does your ( accordion Way cover)get in the way much? I’ve got the 2000 Mill & have considered getting that Cover, but a guy I know said he took it off his cause it was always in the way??🤔 He couldn’t give me any examples… Thanks! Lee