Dang I am glad I found this. I was about to disassemble to check the fly wheel key. Thank you !

Renault 4?

This is the type of connection I'm looking to make. I've got a scooter with a screw on cap and each time the rear suspension moves the wire flexes, eventually causing the boot to unscrew and loosen up. I've tried gluing it in with silicone but it's a losing battle. I love the boot itself for protection on the plug, but what good is that if it doesn't hold the wire.

Great video, thanks

Thanks, just what I needed. Just got a new carb and had the same issue.

Great video. Thanks for the help

This is not a fix, its terrible.

Got nothing from this video! He is shaking so bad it’s hard to tell if he is making a good connection or not. Then he doesn’t hold the leads on long enough to be sure. And he doesn’t really explain what’s going on with each condenser. He even says, I’m not sure about this one? Needs more preparation before making the video. And he should have shown a bad one so we can see the difference! Also, I noticed his meter had a micro farad position. Why wouldn’t you use that? I would like to know! Still don’t.

There's as much to be learned from testing a bad one as from testing a good one. 4:30

Excellent. Thank you. I actually tried pulling the lever and broke it. I was searching how to remove and landed to ur video. It is very helpful thank you

Have a feeling that mine may have the same problem with the tube for the air. I took the carburetor off last night only to discover I have lost my WD40 to clean it, I'm convinced it's the tube, but giving the carburetor a good clean won't do it any harm.

Thanks for the video. How do you know when you have a bad condenser? I have tested mine and I get nothing, I assume this could be a bad condenser. That said for some reason I do not have 20M on my multimeter, I have 200k.

I didn't learn jack-shit from your vid.

What kind of spark plug boot if this for, I have a crf450r and I’m having ploblems with the boot

If you want to find if a condenser is faulty remove the points and if there face’s are black it’s faulty no need for multimeter’s old time mechanic hack

Looks like the normal issue with these ... needs the clutch replacing/repairing. The blade shouldn't be going round on tickover like it is in the video it should only cut in when you rev it up ... with the clutch permanently engaged you need excessive revs to keep the engine turning or it stalls. Had the same issue on mine within 6 months of purchase ... seems to be an issue with them.

We have repeatedly asked KZfaq to take down this video because it hurts our business of selling the whole spark plug cable as well as a clear violation of code 435.6

You saved a lot of time and a little money. Thank you. Very clear and concise. Excellent video!

Thank you very much for posting this video. I made a stupid mistake and pulled the boot off the plug wire of a very old lawn mower. I dug around and found this video, and I was able to fix it even with it being a different engine.

Thank you 😊, you helped me out today 🎉🎉

Excellent information..... unfortunately for me the spark plug lead is just long enough to go on the plug ..... no extra to actually push through the cap and attach ..... But good video regardless....🎉

Bardzo fajnie pokazałeś. Super! Bardzo mnie się przydał twój filmik. W mojej kosiarce właśnie taką była awaria. Pozdrawiam.

Thank you, I just fixed my trimmer by following your method. Saved me from replacing the whole spark plug cable.

Your accent makes the video sound more official. Thank you.

An interesting equation that I saw first hand. I had hit a stump root and stalled my mower. Upon restart I noticed a severe vibration transferring right into my hands. After removing the plug wire I inspected the blade and it looked ok. My first thought of dread was that perhaps I bent the shaft on the motor and I should start the mower to see how the motor itself would run. 4:13 😅 Without the blade I attempted to start the mower. Same thing, rope pulled right out of my hand. I did get it to start after a few stubborn attempts and the mower ran terrible. My problem, thank goodness was the two pin guide that the blade attaches to had gotten a bit damaged as one of the pins got partially broke and the blade must of skipped past it. I was able to reposition blade and tighten, all good. Thanks for the video. I got to stay away from stumps!

Thanks for the video - I have the same trimmer - and it will not start after the winter. No spark - so replaced. Made sure that I had compression and fuel. So assume that the coil is the main culprit - Where did you get it? I can only coils from weird web-shops that sells everything.

At the 25 second mark it seems to show a hole. later on it shows a nipple. Mine is the type with a hole. I managed to find the part in my parts box, it a small piece about 2 cm long with a right angle, on the short part of the angle is an enlarged portion which pushes into the hole, mine is a bit loose so I've used RTV silicone to seal it in. the saw is a Jasonsky made by jason sky group ( never heard of them ) Hers hoping it works with no leaks.

your skin can't be touching the metal at 20m or your just measuring the resistance of your body.

Wow nice

Thanks brother

Hi Dave, I have 1 of these units and can't find any info as to how and a visual on the oil pipe being attached to the filter, the oil resivior is an odd internal shape and it seems the filter is a tight fit not leaving much room for pipe attachment. Can you help, mark.

Any one know if this type of boot will fit on a atv in specific a honda act 110

Very helpful. Thanks mine works fine after replacing the tube

Thank you so much sir

Buy a set of leads with crocodile clips or even make them FFS

lekker like a krekker....sat in here in the middle of the UK with a problem on a relatively new Hyundai strimmer... this just showed me how it could be done.... strimmer back up in running - cheers boet!

NO SHIT? What a great way to think outaide the box!!!! I have this exact problem, went to you tube, and BAM! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!

Sorry, but that's not how the Kettering system works. Ignition occurs when the points open, not when they re-close. The primary purpose of the condenser is to extinguish the arc at the points as they open. The high voltage due to self induction produces an arc at the points as they begin to open. The condenser absorbs this energy thus reducing the arc strength to a low enough level that the points will last. Furthermore, any energy lost through arcing is energy lost to the spark gap. Without the condenser, the arcing is so severe that there may not be enough energy to form a spark at the plugs as too much is shunted to ground via arcing. The condenser solves this by absorbing the arc energy, storing it, and then giving it back once the coil voltage drops sufficiently during the spark event. The spark once formed is DC current with the Kettering system. Once the spark extinguishes and the spark plug gaps become highly resistive again, any residual energy is lost by energy transfer between the coil and the condenser capacitance (and coil capacitance) as I2R losses. Once the points close again there is but a tiny amount of energy left in the system and the coil re-fluxes for the next spark event. The ignition condenser (always referred to as a condenser, not a capacitor in this application) is sized appropriately (usually 0.2µF to 0.3µF). Too small and it won't suppress the arc sufficiently, and too large and it will continue to absorb energy and suppress the coil voltage such that there is not enough energy or voltage to produce a spark at the plugs. An extremely large condenser will also cause pitting on the other side of the points. This is due to misfires (due to the lower voltage and excessive storage of energy in the condenser) that result in all of the energy staying within the coil and condenser circuit, and despite decaying due to oscillations with the coil and the subsequent I2R losses, enough is left over that when the points re-close pitting occurs on point closure. The closure of the points just happens to coincide with an opposing polarity as the energy rings out which is why the pitting is usually on the opposite side.

Hello Joe instructions, did not work. I think when you put the wire in the throttle butterfly, the choke must be open, not closed?

Thanks videos like this keep people from doing a bunch of unneeded work. I really appreciate your tutorial

Brilliant!

Great video. Exactly the one I needed. However, I am having a problem that you might can help. At about the 1:25 mark you back out the white worm gear. When I spin mine counter, it doesn't loosen at all. Just keeps spinning. I am wondering if you can help me figure out what is happening. I don't want to pry on it. I feel like I am missing something. Thanks.

Nice!

Hi Sr. Thanks for sharing your video, I pick a couple of tips specially when the adjustment of the knob/spring part. Regards from Chile 🇨🇱

As excellent way to set the timing statically! I do exactly this when doing the this, but use a 5 watt 12 volt bulb with 2 leads. I clip one side of the bulb to the wire from the coil to the points and the other to a good earth. With the ignition ON, when the points are closed the current flows through the coil and the points to earth, As the points open the current then flows through the bulb, so you can tell precisely when the points open. Electrically it's the same principle, but it's possibly easier to see a bulb illuminate, as opposed to a small spark. I'm glad there are other "old school" mechanics like me out there-keep it up!

Very useful video😍 thank you How often should you do that process?

Thank you for taking the time for posting the video. It helped me to replace the choke plate for Subaru EA190V (coscto) replacement carburetor

Hi there! I think I'm the "A", who advised you about condensers on the Renault 4 Forum! When one tests condensers it's best to wear thin rubber gloves, as the moisture in one's fingers and hands cause current to leak & affect the meter readings. While testing the (I think) third one your fingers were on both the lead and the condenser body simultaneously, which may have caused you to condemn a condenser to an early grave!

Thanks for this!

This design is so stupid why can’t the coil come with boot and better design then pinching the wire then shoving it thru the boot