You're welcome! 😂😂😂

Yeah, the consensus in the comments is definitely to do it the easy way instead! But then I wouldn't have got any practice at attempting to repair a bungled hairspring!😂😂😂

@@IShootWatches Yeah just Busting Your Balls. I forgot to add the LOL.

Thanks! I totally agree with all of those except myself!

@@IShootWatches your channel is to show others like me the struggle you faced and how you fought through it and how good it feels to overcome and that is what i know as inspiration. its been to long man i need ya

@@hellothere312 😂😂😂 Very kind of you! 😂😂😂

I agree with you that it is perfectly matched with my interests and skills and I would love to have one. However, it's an inspection microscope, not a bench microscope. There's no reason why it can't eventually be agile and automated enough to stay out of the way on the bench while constantly seeking the best possible view of the subject (how cool would that be!?) but for now it's better suited for watch photography studios like @TeddyBaldassarre and watch manufacturers that have a regular need to make detailed inspection videos and make live measurements than it is for watchmaking vloggers like me. Actually, now that I think about it someone like Mike or Chris - or anyone better organized than I am that makes their videos shot-by-shot, could definitely use it. I just feel like my channel is all about the bench right now and that means that all of my cameras need to be clear of my work areas. Another interesting possibility would be if if could be controlled by foot pedals so that it could be used on the bench and moved from position to position even while both hands of the operator are engaged with tools and workpieces. Because it can move from Position A to Position B automatically this could actually work very well! Hmmm.... maybe I need to talk to Yuksel about this! 😂😂😂

@@IShootWatches There's so much consistent positioning with the standard disassembly / assembly work I'm sure a lot could be covered with pre-set moves. I notice on Chris's work he's very good at keeping the watch movement in the same orientation I'm forever shifting mine, makes the edit opportunities fewer, but even so I find myself switching between camera 1,2 & 3 at the same points

@@IShootWatches Thanks Dayton and everyone. I am very new to the watch industry, I designed the system initially for the chip/semiconductor industry. But it's a flexible system, and the software will hopefully evolve to meet different needs. The foot control is a very interesting idea. I have no clue if it makes sense, but we may even consider a VR headset for a fully-immersed hands-free experience. Yes, let's discuss. I will gladly send you a demo unit for testing :-)

@@yukseltemiz Wow! Thanks Yuksel! Let's discuss by email!

Thank you very much Mike!

Sorry, I accidentally used music that was not rights free so I had to re-upload it!

@@IShootWatches Bad Boy !!! LOL you could use this system to view escape functions.

Yes, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kN5-e9KJmNCuqWw.html

Thanks. I’m a buyer not a seller (unless I end up with two or more of something) but there are several just like it on Ebay right now.

That was my first rodeo, cowboy!😂😂😂 That said, your comment is a good one! I did not know at the time that the workpiece should be held as close to the area it is being worked as possible. That seems rather obvious now, but as a noobie one tends to think of steel as being rigid, which it is not. Let's talk about turning balance staffs on the lathe. Do you advise turning between centers, and cut the ends of the pivots last, and then finish both pivots holding as close to the center as possible? I have Fried's The Watch Repairer's Manual and the George Daniels book Watchmaking. I haven't reviewed those sections lately but I did get yelled at by an old watchmaker in L'Abbaye on Saturday to turn between centers, but also just to buy a new one because anything one makes is going to be a piece of shit anyway and impossible to fit and get right, etc. (Which I thought was the "joy" of watchmaking, but what do I know?) 😂

@@IShootWatches if I recorded some of my first tries I'm sure we'd be right in the same place lol As for the pivots, it's been a few years since I've read through Rogers book and I honestly can't tell you off the top of my head the best way to go about it, I'd rather be honest than misleading lol From memory I assume most pivots are too small to run between centres and i wouldn't attempt it. Off the top of my head I would turn down the shafts then as you mentioned try clamp as close as possible or just clamp the leaves of the pinion or whatever is best There are those little jigs that allow you to run between centres and have the pivot stick out (the bearing surface will be the edge of the leaves against the internal cone shape (diagrams are in the book) I've messed around a little with that but it's very touchy, and I not having a watchmakers lathe and trying to use a medium sized bench lathe surely made it much harder to execute I just couldnt get it to work as intended, prob due to the pressures of a large machine just eating the surfaces up too quick and being unable to finely adjust the pressure to get a decent bearing where I can turn the pivot So I just abondoned the whole pivot between centres, I'm a little confused on tolerances needed for mechanical watches because modern machines (kerns) can do within 2 micron machine repeatability, that's fine for any type of modern watch, but what's border line acceptable for a 32-38mm movement (or pocket watch movements) which is what we are more known to play around with? I assume 5 micron machine repeatability would be fine for accurate pocket watches but may also be fine for small modern wristwatches too? Maybe 10 micron machines (repeatability of 0.01mm) will be good enough for modern wrist watches!? Most new decent CNC machines advertise a repeatability of 10 microns, I'd assume 10 microns would be right on the line for jewel placement holes and pivots, I doubt anything more would be acceptable or wouldn't be apparent from the performance but I'm just assuming lol So I'm guessing as long as your collets are high quality and lathe is in good shape (how the manufacturer intended it to be) I highly doubt turning pivots in the Collet will be an issue, I guess you can let us know when you fix a watch with some pivots you made by collet holding and see if there's any drastic differences lol I've been trying to find these answers for some time now because my idea is to make a CNC machine with an epoxy granite base that's very accurate (within 5 micron repeatability) and make watch parts with that! So it can just spit out parts all day and I can do the fit and finishing! To buy a 5 micron machine that's capable is very pricey! I think 25-35k USD I stopped this journey because it just isn't feasible today without CNC machines, we need to make a living lol I can't just make watches in my shed and not worry about money lol I'd end up homeless.. In saying that I hate the idea of machining a pivot last! They are so touchy it's too easy to screw up the last step, I'd rather do them ASAP if possible. By no means am I a watchmaker, I have made a geartrain and barrel (with Geneva wheel delivery system) so please take my advice with a grain of salt lol I think you should scan over the pinion/pivot turning section/s in the watchmaking book to avoid any possible lost time and mistakes that from overlooking the process or possibly taking a stranger's illinformed advice haha Oh and turning between centres will always give you the best concentricity as long as the spindle and tailstock are aligned properly so if possible it's certainly best. Anyways, great channel!! Love it!! All the best in the future! Can't wait for more content!!

The lume thickens very fast (as it dries). Getting the lume onto the tip of the oiler and then getting the oiler into a jig would take time, and also the jig would not allow the manual manipulation of the oiler necessary to release the correct amount of lume onto the chapter ring. Tritec makes an actual pen that disburses luminous paint / varnish mixture, but it costs several thousand dollars and requires a large reservoir of luminous paint to be loaded so it's more for industrial use. I would love to find one of those second hand to try it out, because in that case your idea would work great, but without that a jig would, in my opinion, cause more trouble than it's worth!

Sure, they are Jena 2.3x magnifier eyeglasses / surgeon's loupe. Google Jena DDR 2.3x. I paid about $160 for them (used but like new) at a watch fair in L'Abbaye Switzerland on Saturday (the day I made this video). I've seen them on Ebay from time to time for $300 - $500 used. The modern version is called Zeiss EyeMag.

Normally I would say "yes", just buy the same watch, but this watch is one of a kind because someone hand-skeletonized it. So to get one you'd need to buy a UG Gilt Shadow and skeletonize it yourself or pay a watchmaker to do that for you! That's what I love about this particular watch!

The watch is a 1969 Universal Genève Gilt Shadow designed by Gérald Genta. It has a hand-skeletonized Cal 1-66 micro-rotor automatic movement. I was interested in both the hand skeletonization of the movement and the gentle curves of the tonneau-shaped Genta-designed case. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qpx_qcKWrLGzm6s.html

@@IShootWatches thank you very much for the information. I love the balance wheel at the bottom. 🤩

@@silvankamm05 Yes, and the micro-rotor! I'll make a longer video about this watch sooner or later! Thanks for your comment!

😂😂😂

Thanks! We only did a couple of those. They were the brainchild of @JDRichard - you're welcome to ask him if he plans to do more!

Yeah, sorry about that. I consider these days to be the early days of my channel and I like to experiment. Asian social media is peppered with crazy sound effects so I thought I'd try it for fun. I haven't continued doing it and I appreciate your feedback!

The Technos alarm or any alarm watch with an AS 5008 movement tend to be quite large. And it's not because the movement is larger diameter, it's because it's a thick movement so they built out the cases to compensate for the thick movement in terms of proportion. The AS 5008 was used in a lot of smaller name watches. Just about any automatic Swiss made alarm watch with two crowns at 2pm and 4pm will likely be an AS 5008 if it's not an Omega or a Jaeger-LeCoultre. Actually, a good strategy would be just focus on alarm watches from the period! The Omega's and Jaeger-LeCoultre's are also large and alarm watches are great!

Note that I said most "automatic" alarm movements are AS5008. There are a lot of manual wind alarms that are 33mm - 34mm and are even smaller than the Bell-Matics.

It's not easy! I watch a lot of videos and look at a lot of auctions!

Depends on the temperature and how hyper the bear is but I wouldn't advise hanging around to find out!

@@IShootWatches lol, the thought of grizzlies on Adderall…

My collection is starting to look like yours, Sonny, don't you think? I'm just missing your beautiful pocket watch movement display! (I'm working on that by the way!)

@@IShootWatches Looks awesome

The difficult part will be getting the old movement out without damaging the case or crystal (I would say this is impossible if it's a plastic chrono, and I have never tried it with a metal one). After you get the movement out it will be marked as to which caliber it is!

@@IShootWatches already removed the crystal... hehe isnt that hard

@@jcsivelli Fantastic! I see now that you said it was an Irony in your original post. I guess I'll have to open one of those up now that you've led the way! 😂😂😂

Yes! I learned me lesson on this one! The difficult thing was coming up with a good solution for sharpening. I now have a larger lathe with diamond plate grinding wheels (as well as regular grinding wheels) that make sharpening fast and easy. Just have to not go so fast that the graver gets too hot and loses its temper.

You should be able to find a used autoquartz with a good case and a broken movement and swap it out yourself! I am very interested in those movements! Been looking for one myself!

Thanks! Interlaken is heaven on earth! And it's a stones throw from the Eiger, the Jungfrau, Grindelwald, Wengen, and Lauterbrunnen. An amazing region in the center of Switzerland! We (my wife and I) spent the last three days up there.

Вы имеете в виду правки? Без редактирования это слишком долго.

@@IShootWatches я имею ввиду что картинка слишком часто меняется. Пока одну деталь достаешь, показываешь с трёх четырёх камер. Поставь одну в микроскопе, и вторую недалеко от механизма, мы догадаемся, что у тебя рядом детали лежат, и ты их достаешь. А то во время доставания уже начинаются скачки то с одной камеры показываешь, то с другой. Куда смотреть?! Это называется трахнуть мозги, и хорошо работает только в экшенах. 🤕

@@-Dubel- Спасибо! У моей жены та же проблема с моими видео, и я согласен с вами обоими. Причина, по которой я это делаю, заключается в том, что я сам смотрел много видеороликов о часовом деле, и мне всегда было интересно, что происходит за кадром. Я пытаюсь показать, что делаю, чтобы люди лучше понимали инструменты и организацию, но вы правы, что я захожу слишком далеко. В любом случае я ценю ваш комментарий! Я постараюсь найти лучший баланс в редактировании в будущем. Мне не нужно резать каждые две секунды!

Hey Sonny! Yes, I shot a lot of video up there. May have to post some of it somewhere. Maybe on my other channel. You have to come visit some day! My wife and I camped this weekend and it's amazing for kids. Your young ones would love it!

Watch needs a good cleaning anyway! 😂 😂😂 But you’re right - my old wedding ring is already in lake Brienze! (this is lake Thun - the two of them define “Interlaken” i.e. between two lakes.) The old Rolex needs to stay out of the lake for future generations!

@@IShootWatches Water there looked like the Mediterranean, but the Swiss flag (and your title) said otherwise. Enjoy!

@@WatchWithMike glacier water green!

This video was taken down three times by KZfaq - I think because that popping sounded like something else. I can't remember what I finally had to do to it to get it past the algorithm.

@@IShootWatches Thats Nuts

Thanks! I’ll try silversteel next time! And files (I also bought a bunch of old watchmaking files)

@@IShootWatches you realy need files suitable for work on the lathe ! normal watchmaking files will clogg up and dull quickly ! also your filerest on the lathe could be a bit higher ! leanr how to grind propper tool geomtry ! it hurts to watch your video :)