No problem 👍

Cheers Matthew

Glad it was helpful!

It is not so much about suspension. The progression really assists with chain torque reactions. This is where a linkage shines. Any bike that doesn't have a linkage will benefit from a progressive spring.

@@shocktreatment5495 Thank you!

They are a great bike....

They sure do!

Basically the level of damping generated vs the level of damping required. Sometimes you may find that the amount of damping is fine but the balance between low speed and high speed is skewed which will affect traction and control

This is still the best method I have found. Nothing here is static and we are always prepared to evolve if a better system, product, material etc comes along. I would be inclined to think Twin Air are accounting for the dunderheads that seem to be increasing at an exponential rate....

Too easy...thank you

No problem

Cheers! What bike do you have?

@@shocktreatment5495 I have Husqvarna FC 250 from 2019. Great bike for weekend warrior. I don't ride often so when I'm riding, most of the times I'm to excited to think about suspension settings.

@@JanASS1991 How heavy are you and what type of terrain are you riding on....sand / clay etc. Skill level? Do you prefer firm or plush?

@@shocktreatment5495 Without riding gear I weight about 200 pounds. For this season I went with firmer spring as I've put some weight last year. :) Can't recall exact rating right now. Most of the time I'm riding clay to intermediate MX tracks. I'm really bad at riding sand. And I prefer firmer setting over plushness as I'm taking safety over comfort. I might be wrong with my thinking but getting big kick from the rear is my nightmare.

@@JanASS1991 Sorry that I haven't replied before this. Try 100mm of sag. Forks all the way down with only the caps protruding above the clamps. 140 PSI in fork with comp at 16 out rebound 10 out. Shock HS Comp at 1 turn out LS Comp at 14 out Rebound 16 out

Thanks for your kind comment.

The shimstack that they supply will put you in the ballpark at a minimum. Potentially within a couple of clicks. If you find you wish to adjust the stack later on, you already have a baseline to adjust from.

So I installed the RT kit and test rode it yesterday. It really made a noticeable improvement. Can you remove the base valve on these forks without taking the top cap off the fork? For making base valve adjustments without draining oil.

@@aaronbashnick7581 You can simply turn the fork upside down and remove the base valve. You won't lose any more than a few drops. Just make sure you clean the base perfectly before removing the base bolt.

Glad to help

No problem 👍

Thank you kind Sir!

Its just "Open Cell" foam similar to filter foam.

They are as you say "Micro Ridges" and in between those ridges sits a film of oil which, as you are no doubt aware is non compressible. This allows the seal lip to glide over the ridges rather than drop down in between them. Its benefits have been well studied and proven. The effect is very similar to cylinder honing. It in fact promotes seal life rather than hamper it....but I understand your doubt here as it doesn't sound immediately logical.

Thanks Terry. I learn a ton from your videos and appreciate you spreading your wealth of knowledge out to the masses

Cheers mate

You are very welcome

As mentioned in the video...the foam is penetrated with lubricant...therefore reducing friction.

No worries

Thanks

Bad. As Terry pointed out in the video you do no want dirt and grit being dragged up and down your forks as your suspension works! Same thing as putting sand paper under your windshield wiper and turning them on.

Those rubber gaiters used on conventional fork are great, manufacturers have used them for years. The neoprene ones they sell for upside down forks are what Terry doesn't like. I have a close friend that has used the neoprene type on his 2013 YZF250 from new and he never had any issues till today. I personal don't use them.

The base oil that creates fork oil is petroleum based and most hydraulic seals are designed to resist hydraulic fluids.....there really is no problem with WD40

I would say not if Terry is using it .

We usually use 400 followed by 800. If the tube is really bad we may even start with 240 and move through the grit range.

That will be done today and hopefully up tonight

I find the SKFs a little better for friction and reasonable for seal life. NOK seals (KYB Showa) are a little better for durability but not quite as slippery....really, there's not much in it.

They can be made to work really well. I am not disturbed about single spring forks. They have been around for many years now and not proven to be detrimental

@@shocktreatment5495 Good to hear! Cheers Terry

Best wishes to you and all you care for

@@justadam1917 Thanks Adam....I hope you are keeping well

Cheers...Thanks Adam

The world is in your hands if you are building the bike from scratch. The relationship between the output shaft and the swingarm pivot is critical. Squat and anti-squat both determine a relationship that is less than ideal but must be considered. Smaller sprockets are better for stability no matter which application you have....road / dirt. One aspect of chain torque that is rarely given much thought is that of back torque. When gearing down for a turn the torque switches to the underside of the chain promoting rear extension which has a dramatic effect on load transfer which if excessive really hampers braking performance. Smaller sprockets are a must here. Most road bike linkages will provide appr 10 - 11% progression. You will be best to plot a leverage curve once the shock is installed as the lean angle will provide a small amount of progression. Once you know what you have you can have a spring wound from there.

@@shocktreatment5495 Thanks great adivce. Actually I have a way of putting the front sprocket on the swingarm axle itself i think that's the absolute most ideal situation the chain simply just doesnt do anything bad then (not even wobbling). I was thinkin about another solution where it's actually behind the swingarm axle but i'll stick to the on-the-axle solution.. You really know your craft man you are the first who i've seen who isnt bull 💩ing about this pds issue everyone was speaking total nonsense regarding it (and not a small number of people)

@@dcktater7847 Thank You. Sadly.....A lot of people will develop an opinion rather than chase the reality. It's human nature.....it's easy. McDonalds aren't the most successful restaurant because they produce the best food. There is a wonderful underworld within the motorcycle industry where absolute genius's toil away in sheds down the back yard or under their houses for "no where near" the money they deserve just because they love what they do. Meanwhile others sell shiny shit and clean up....Go Figure! Good luck on your quest.

No worries.....May the force be with you!

Glad you liked it

I never do......

Absolutely. We measure from the rear axle to a "vertical point" on the back of the bike. Given that you are chasing a percentage of rear wheel travel this makes perfect sense. The purpose of sag is to put you in the ballpark so you can begin tuning. It is not a hard and fast measurement and shouldn't be treated as such.

That's for the actual machining and set up time once the fork is apart. So it will be $120 on top of what other work you are doing...service / revalve etc.

Appr 20mm

As mentioned in the video, my interest in the progressive spring is in regards to power delivery / chain torque reactions as opposed to suspension movement. If you were to separate suspension movements from your thoughts and concentrate on how the power develops under acceleration you will be pleasently surprised. There is less squatting and greater stability with the progressive unit.

Having pitted tubes is like having a nail in your tyre. You can replace the tube but if you leave the nail there, it will soon result in another flat. With small nicks in the tubes they can be buffed out on a lathe. You may be able to fill others but if they are beyond repair then the tubes will either have to be rechromed or replaced