Great to see three solid alternate products that do similar things when going back to rebound / comp in both legs. Must be light years ahead of stock.

Great explanation and detail, thank you.

Thats a solid option 👍🏻

Compression leg is a modern version of a damper rod fork. I plugged the the top cartridge holes and have a mid valve with a check valve instead of a rebound stack so I still have working reb/comp adjusters.

Thanks for a great vid Terry. Would be nice to see the comparison explanation of the cone valve vs the upgraded XPlor forks.

Terry. Very informative video. Ive recently installed the race tech kit in my Xplor fork here in Canada. Do you offer remote turing services for DIY installations? Im looking for valving and spring rate specs. I have tried the RT valving database with average results. Thanks Nick

Can you do a video explaining your WP telescopic dampening rod in the rear shock..

Hello! Great explanation for how this fork works. Would you please tell me if I get this correct - the simplest and cheapest solution to at least substantially reduce the tendency for the compression fork leg to de-stabillize the oil and considerably increase the "consistency of the performance" would be to either swap out the vented upper cartridge part, plug it somehow or replace it with the outer cartridge from the rebound leg + somehow (with some kind of a spacer) create a situation when by turning the compression clicker fully in you cannot fully seat the "conical valve" that is on the end of the cartridge rod, kind of "mimicing" a bleed or a float on a mid-valve when the compression adjuster is turned completely in. I think this solution would take care of both of the problems you mentioned with the compression leg - at least to a considerable degree. It wouldn't allow any oil to migrate from the "rebond" side of the cartridge in neither stroke through the vent holes and even if the compression adjuster would be turned completely in it wouldn't allow the whole volume of oil displaced by the "valve assembly" on the end of the cartridge rod to get pushed through the basevalve, causing the need to refill the chamber totally under vacuum. Sure, finding the right size of this bleed could be imparative to prevent as much cavitation as possible on either stroke which might happen due to "rebound" chamber not filling up properly if the compreesion adjuster is turned fully in and the "bleed" is not large enough", but anyways this should considerably improve the "consistancy" of the performance with really low cost, wouldn't it (I know for a fact that at least here in Europe I can order the upper, non-vented cartridge part from K-Tech for something like 100 AUD)? Would you say that it would still be better just to tune fully tune up the rebound leg with all the base valve shims, mid-valve/rebound shims for a "complete" "cheap" solution and just ignore the compression leg? In such a case, would you recommend reducing the base valve shim stack in the compression leg down to bare minimum and opening the clicker essentially up just to reduce damping as much as possible and thus produce the most "consistant" feel (as if there would be any damping in the compression leg the risk of cavitation would "upset" a bigger portion of the whole "system" damping and thus afect the consistancy of the feel)? Hope you can answer this as I'm just only starting to learn suspension (structural engineering background) and I'm quite interested whether I'm starting to grasp the concepts. Thanks!

Have you guys had anything to do with n10z compression valve for these forks or had a look at it, do u think it could be a good thing? Thanks for the informative content 👍 👌

Thanks for the nice explanation. Race tech or wp cc insert pro 6500? What would you recommend?

I’ve looked all over your website I can’t find the Scheaffer kit.

Excellent. Can you do xplor shock as well? Have they sorted the needle taper since the early days of pds? or do you still need to buy telescopic needle?

Great video. So would these work on the 2017 690, I think the ‘14-‘18 are not Xplor or 4CS, not sure what their official name is. All I know is they’re harsh!

i've been googleing that race tech kit you recommend. I cant find it. What is it called. All i find is gold valve kits and thats not what you show.

I have cone valve forks you s set up for me through Brendan I live in Thailand just wondering if your one the top off the inner fork tube goes black where its machined like about the top half offf it

Installed the Scheaffer valve kit in my 2020 150 forks and am totally amazed. They are plush at low speed and accurate and confidence inspiring at high speed. Thanks to the Shock Treatment team my 150 is even easier to ride. Cant believe how bad the original forks are on such a late model bike. Ready to Race ? lol

It looks like turning the compression adjuster IN would unseat the compression valve and make the setting softer (opposite to regular adjustments). Am I confused?

Hi Terry, great Video, whats the part number or name of the Race Tech solution. I couldnt find it on your website and would like to purchase. Thanks heaps

Hi Terry and the Shock Treatment Suspension team, can you please tell me where I can find more information about the Shafer kit? I’m lead to believe that is the only kit you will make a custom shim stack to suit the purchaser/rider for? Cheers, Lucas

I’ve talked to two local tuners (Arizona) and both recommended your cheap option, and they seemed think they could get excellent results that way. I can do the Gold Valve kit myself for cheaper they they quote, I’ve found good resources on how to, guess it ultimately comes down to good RTs shim recommendations work. Really not sure what to do.

Has there been significant improvement in the 22/23 fork over the 17-19 fork ? The 19 fork in my 450excf was absolute garbage. Revalve helped but still crap.

What model and year(s) and WP Forks are you referring to?

Wheres the three stooges?

This is why i dont buy KTM.... always need fixing. But the have the best shock highspeed adjuster....its working. KYB does nothing its just a lowspeed adjuster

We shouldn’t even be having this conversation if White Power designed a half decent fork for 2020-2023 bikes. I’ve just bought a 2023 Husky TE 300 and can’t believe how utterly bad these Xplor forks are. White Power you have totally ruined your reputation with these forks. The standard forks on my 1983 Yamaha IT 250 are way better than these. Very disappointed.