Robinson Sharon Davis Kevin Walker Paul

you're damaging the filters and not cleaning them .... good job 😆🤣

Clark Barbara Martinez Mark Jones Dorothy

Do you a form of contact? I have a question i wanna ask about the cascadia

i may be wrong but I believe there are 2 types of carbon deposits - soft carbon which can be washed out (wash backwards as it's too big to pass through), but also hard carbon/soot which needs to be baked to break it down ( I wonder what temperature ?). If the regen is around 600 degrees, the dpf cleaning ovens must go higher than that to remove the carbon deposits that can't be washed out. This latter type can't be washed out because it's stuck there - bit like the carbon on inlet valves of direct injection engines which has to be walnut blasted to be removed. Ash shouldn't be a problem regardless (the reason for regen processes, burn the carbon into ash). You can try borax (sodium hydroxide ?) or muriatic acid but it's hard to know how much carbon it can dislodge/dissolve that isn't loose enough that just detergent would dissolve it. I wonder if more frequent regens would avoid problems - this heats the dpf to burn the carbon into ash which can pass through the micro holes and out thru the exhaust. Construction: Imagine 2 tubes joined side by side and holes between them on the join, only big enough for ash to pass through from one pipe into the other, but not carbon/soot. The pipe where exhaust enters is sealed at its far end, while the other pipe is sealed at its front end but open into the exhaust pipe. Hence exhaust gas has to pass from the enter pipe into the adjoining pipe through the small holes in the join. The exhaust gases (and ash) can pass through easily until too much carbon/soot builds up and blocks those holes. So force regen more often to stop that blockage or would that damage the material inside? Of course the soot doesn't block it completely (the engine still exhausts) but the pressure diff measured after the dpf becomes too great and the check light comes on. Sometimes this sensor plays up and is too sensitive so if your light comes on a lot and regens don't fix it, try replacing the sensor (don't go aftermarket). Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Same tap 2019 cascadia?

Vodo magic

I wonder if a ultrasonic bath would be good for this?

h20/water produced in the exhaust process so cleaning with water will be ok just dont damage the metals

Thank you , helped me a lot

This is probably one of the most thorough videos I've ever seen on KZfaq thank you

Thank you for the video very simple and easy explanation. I am having the same problem right now. I will be disassembling the unit and checking for sudden blockage. Hopefully that fixes the issue you probably just saved me about $1500 at the dealer.

Watched the video specifically for torque specs 😒

Those trucks are total trash

Did you know the part # for the seal and gasket..? ( water pump thermostat) Thanks.

The title of the video is how to replace this sensor not how to diagnose how they work and what color the fucking sky is

Have you had any experience with LS tractors and issues with egr valves.?

Let me cleaner you and make you smart. Don’t wast your money on maintenance. It cost you a lot of expensive.. if you have this code spn 4364 fmi 18. Just just keep your nox outlet sensor out. You have check ligh on. But it’s work great. If that doesn’t work. Just go buy one box new not ramanufacture. It’s cheap only $6500 all sensor. $1500. Check my video I I hack my system 😂. It’s better then spend every day money. You will be good until 400000 miles

Thx

I’m leaking from the clamp closer to the turbo (2019 Cascadia) replaced seal and clamp 3 times and it still leaked causing smoke when burning off. This time I put new exhaust pipe, new exhaust manifold piece that 7th injector is bolted to , new 7th injector (injector housing, injector and seal) and new clamp and seal AGAIN! after all that it STILL LEAKED!!

Dealing with a similar issue on a Mercedes 906la motor but the pump and metering valve switching valve are exactly the same. Spn 4334-18 Replace pump and metering valve and flushed lines still no luck going to check voltage at pump I know I have 24v there on 1 pin need to check the other. Also I did have oil in air line so going to check that line.

Thanks u Sr

How many miles can it go with out getting serviced though

Do you have a video on replacing these leaking orings I keep hearing about? Its when the whole unit is usually covered

Sorry if I missed it, but did you say which orientation it should be? I.e does “steeper angle” side sit on muffler side or dowpipe?

❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

Informative....

How the hell do you stop the flow of Def after you disconnect those lines?

Never done it but thinking of doing it

Will this work for 2011 Ram 3500 ??

Great video

Beautiful

I’m just going to build a custom set up using a hot water heater, collection drums, filters, etc. And make sure it’s legally disposed off. Haven’t done any reading on exhaust particulates disposal.

Thanks

Soneone brainless Idiot created and other idiots made it 'must have it\

I install a large tiewrap loosely around the dpf to use as a handle along with a pry bar to support the dpd when manuvering the dpf into place.

My truck engine light 570 miles

I’m having Issue with that code SPN 3058 FMI 10, I just replaced the VPod and the Delta P Sensor would it need to be recalibrated?

Who the fuck in there right minds would buy a modern diesel car. They are pure shite please believe me .

Pure common sense .....so many shops out there lack this and then the customer pays the price. Nicely explained

Heating is the best way to clean these.. in an industrial kiln

Great video man short and right to the point

Idiot at the freightliner dealer updated my ECM to the low nix setting.the fvcktard cost me 11 grand in fuel until I figured out what he did .EPA can eat my azz.

Are you doing this in your shop? I don't know what the hot knife method is but I thought that was the only way to clean them.

Why did you stop posting

Excellent content provided. You're much appreciated

Honestly God bless you sir. Thank you for the great explanation and actually understanding that not everything needs to be replaced to find the problem. Every shop I went to want to make me change everything that’s connected to the problem and most of the time it doesn’t even fix the problem and it was something as simple as a wire that was corroded.

When replacing I think you're supposed to pressurize the def inlet to inflate the bladder before attaching the line. 90 psi for 3 seconds is what I've seen....

what scanner do you use ?

Yes it does worked.done this past wknd,with some Awesome. Cleaner from Dollar General..