Good videos mate, learning a lot. But after that I can see a full exhaust fit up vid coming soon to replace that ugly pos factory job 😂

Excellent video mate ! 😊

Thanks

Good morning, what are the specs for those suspension

great content!! thanks!!

Ta mate thanks heaps ❤

I tried using a range of spanners to remove the nut. I tried the 11 and didn't work. I tried plyers as well and didnt work. Would love suggestions please.

👍‍‍🌟👍‍‍

Can u do a power steering pump change please

Epic guys

great video guys just wondering approximately how much was spent on parts

Really useful 👍

Great video mate. Thanks so much for that! Made life easier.

Wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the rotors too? Looks like replacing them would require a hub job anyway.

Very comprehensive tutorial. Great video well done 👏

Thank you so much for creating this video my son has just bought a Getz for his first car and this video was such a great reference for him. Young people don’t know how fortunate they are being able to learn from other people via video. Big thumbs up and your videos are very professionally put together.

What a fantastic video! Thank you so much from a single Mum that is happy to tackle the car service now that I've seen this :)

I would like to know how to change the rear diff oil

You fuckin legend mate

Thank you so much,👍

Man wish you did a how to on removing the needle bearing from the spindle. I absolutely butchered the first one. There is no ledge to get a drift on. I'm to scared to try the 2nd one now

This is one of the best videos l seen

Nice work

Nice work

Hey man, I can’t seem to find the plate with all the info :/ not sure if it was taken before, fell off, or what as I see the holes where it is supposed to be. I’ve got the 95 base with no locking diffs. Is it safe to assume I would have the K292 or should I do some more scrounging around to see if it has the LSD? Would it hurt if I added in the LSD additive even if I didn’t have one?

Thank u sir for this video 🫡

Excellent video.

Hi thanks for the video, I understand a flush of the entire system is not advisable. If i repeat the 6 litre drain and fill over 1000k twice would that replace more old fluid than a single drain. Should i eventually change the transmission filter? Regards mike.

can you make a video of how to remove the oil pan/ sump thanks

Thank u❤

Outstanding video! well done and thank you 2nd Gear Low!!!

Just finished this maintenance. Thank you for the EXCELLENT video! Perfectly done. For those with standard height trucks, I found it easiest to jack up from the driver's side to drain and from the rear axle to fill (if you can measure your oil exactly). Makes it easier if you have trouble getting under a standard height 100 like I do.

How long does it take to change all three belts?

Very helpful thanks 👍

Always a good video by u man always explains everything 👌🏽

Hello sir Rakshit from India I have same car but there is issue there is a issue when the car is stationery and when i full turned my steering there is a squeaking noise plz help sir

can you do a timing belt change video need mine done soon

This will be my first time working on a Lexus. Doing a favor for one of my patients Replacing coil and spark plugs 2 and 8. Looks like both on the left side from front of engine based on firing order. Thanks! ❤

Thank you you're videos help me a lot

I’m still surprised there still is getz’s still on the road somewhat commonly

Those are already much higher than most newer Toyotas stick😂 crazy they stopped doing the slightly extended hose line and just put a breather sticking directly off the diff by itself… wow

Could this tutorial be applied to 1996 hilux solid axle too?

I have done this job on this model several times. It's possible to do the entire job without removing the right front wheel. I have done it with ramps only. It's not tricky. Some tips that may help someone: I loosen the camshaft bolt by bracing a long cheater bar against a block of wood on the ground and briefly kicking the starter. It works every time, but I admit there is a little risk for new players. This is quick and easy, but take care. The wood block protects the cheater bar's end from damage. This can also be done early in the process, as soon as you can access the bolt, which should be right after removing that plastic cover under the belts. In this way, you can know if the job can be done before you do any serious disassembly. Removing the harmonic balancer can also be tricky. I find it can be pulled off by hand while tapping it from the side with a brass hammer. The hammering helps it shock loose to begin with until it can be slid off the shaft. The job is easier if the right engine support bracket is removed first. You must jack up under the sump to take the weight off the mount first and ensure it does not sink down too far while you work. Chaps with big hands will appreciate the extra working space, and time will be saved overall. Torquing the crankshaft bolt can be done after all other assembly. Just don't forget. Doing this with a long half-inch drive extension (mine is about 600mm) and a suitable half-inch torque is easy. Once assembly is done I throw it in fifth and run the extension straight past the wheel to get the correct torque. This method (and the removal method mentioned above) eliminates the need to buy a special tool you will use only for three or four timing belt changes and perhaps a water pump change during the life of the car. I would consider replacing the water pump during this job. A water pump replacement basically requires a timing belt change anyway. A replacement water pump is inexpensive and also adds a coolant replacement to the job. That sounds like a lot until you find yourself doing that, plus work for the timing belt just for a water pump replacement. Worth thinking about before doing the timing belt change since you will be "in there" anyhow. When reinstalling the water pump pulley, lining up the first bolt through three holes in that situation is tricky. It can be time-consuming (particularly if you are still working around the right engine mount support bracket). I find it easiest to first run a zip tie through the top hole, which lines up all the other holes with gravity. Once you have two bolts, you can remove the zip tie and do the other two. In the video, this step happens with a jump cut - the magic of editing out all the fumbling and swearing, I guess. When tensioning the AC belt, there is also a locking bolt on the other side. This prevents the tensioner from backing off from engine vibration. I did not see this mentioned or tightened in the video during belt tensioning, but it should be done. Check your FSM.

Awesome video. Did you fill with grease after installing?

yes mate you legend great video easy to understand and follow ur instructions. never new it had to b running to check the atf oil.

Careful with those cone washers, they can fly out at a high rate of speed and disappear... I was told to always leave the nut on until they're loose 👍

I have got a problem because of I fired the rear prouprl shaft as a guess and got noise in beer box or universal joint attaching with the beer box side first how can I Aline properly

Good job 👏👏👏👍👌

Thanks. Especially for the gap and the torque. What are the two air hoses into the filter? I don't have them...

Superb, clear and easy to follow, the best tutorial for this job I have ever seen. My 80 has factory fit locking diffs - shouldn't they be locked before starting this job?