I love everything about that! So glad it could be helpful <3

I'm so glad it was helpful! Thanks for the kind words <3. I'll keep an eye out if you have any questions during your patterning!

Hi, I sell this particular fabric on the CLO Connect, otherwise CLO provides a spandex for free, which will have all the specs applied :)

So glad it could help! Thanks for the kind words <3

Oh, thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you got some use out of it :) This method was developed by Helen Joseph-Armstrong and taken from her pattern making book. It's what we use at University to draft blocks. The measurements used in this method are standardized to work for a "core" sizes, closer to sample sizes 4-6-8-10. So when our sizes get further away from that core, the less these measurements make sense for our patterns. Even if we fall into this size range, its typical to still need tweaks to the first draft. The best thing you can do is to sample your patterns. This is the most valuable information you can get when customizing a garment. While wearing the sample, pinch out the extra material at the top of the cap and transfer that omission to your paper patterns. And likewise, add to places where you need more material. I hope this help. Let me know if you have anymore questions <3

Aw, thanks for the kind words :) I glad it was helpful in some way.

That measurement is just the cap height, which is from the underarm up to shoulder. This is the same for the front and back, so no need to measure again for the back. Remember that cap height is related to the type of fit you desire. You can reduce the cap height if you would like a more casual, active sleeve, and the bicep would need to also get wider.

Yes, it can be a tricky balancing act. The height of the cap can be reduced.

I would check eBay if you want cheaper. Or buy from the brand themselves if you want something new with no issues. just google juki serger.

Hi, to render animation, you have to first apply motion files to your avatar and let your garment motion record. The different poses and movement come from those motion files. Find them in the library under Avatar. Other motion files can be used from Mixamo, but it's more tedious.

Aw, hey Adaora! How are you? That makes me so happy you're still working in CLO <3. For the power mesh--if it's just to get an artistic rendering of the outfit, you can use any dense, 4-way stretch knit to get the physical behavior close. For the appearance, the holes in the mesh are so small, I don't think it would be worth creating an opacity map to simulate transparent holes. I would get a good image of a mesh material and use that as the texture map, reduce the opacity of textile in CLO just slightly until it looks right. If you're using this virtual garment to ultimately create a physical garment, you're gonna need to do some testing. Or see if there are any fabric libraries that have already created power mesh with accurate properties. Even then, you want to use all of the trouble shooting steps to ensure a close 1st prototype. (measure the amount of stretch in real world fabric, compare POMs in virtual patterns, use fit-proven blocks) Let me know if you have any questions, you know where to find me :)

Aw, what a lovely comment. Thanks for the kind words, hope the video was helpful :)

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the kind words <3

Hey, well it depends on what your desired end result is. If you want to have an even distribution between the two outer lines, then select the two internal lines or pattern outlines > right click > distribute internal lines between segments. That will give you an even distribution for the number of lines you input, and the shapes of the internal lines will gradually blend into the shape of one another. Really smart software :). Maybe you will need to do it incrementally for your specific situation. Or consider the regular Right Click > Offset as Internal line. Hope this helps!!

thank you so much! @@vanhertenouterwear

Oh, I think I may have misread your question. Are you talking about the Quilting Distance when using the Fill Tool? If so, the rule of thumb is to input the biggest interval on the pattern piece. So if you have lines that vary in distance, like 1" 2" and 3" apart, use the 3 as your quilting distance.

yep, i have a square pattern with a V-shaped internal line that starts from the upper right and left corners of the square pattern, so it has no parallel lines to use as a reference. the point of the V is located at the half of the square's height. should i just put the highest distance value from like the point of the V to the right side of the square? hope you can undestand what i mean hahaha @@vanhertenouterwear

Yeah, I think I understand what you're saying. So there is only a singular line in this quilting design, correct? If so, then yes, I would just input half of the square measurement if the point comes to the center. You can always decrease or increase the Quilting Distance for a different puffer effect (less or more stuffing). I would test it and go from there :) @@PhotoSlash

Yeah, good point. Sometimes the information gets overwhelming for beginner CLO students so I tend to introduce the core concepts and build up. But you are totally correct.

@@vanhertenouterwear absolutely agree with you. Thanks for the videos I learned a lot from them)

Aw, glad it was helpful <3

So, you're saying after you have the patterns built in CLO and you're ready to produce the physical garment, project the pattern outlines onto fabric, then cut out? I'm sure that's possible but that would take quite a bit of rigging and would be independent of CLO. That concept is sort of similar to what happens with mass production. Rather than using printed patterns, they use software and machinery that cut the pattern shapes directly out of big mattresses of textile layers.

Aw, glad it could help, thanks for the kind words <3

Sure thing :)

Yes, turn of cloth is usually built into the pattern by adding a small amount to the upper pattern or reducing the under pattern, so when the two pieces are forced together, the smaller one pulls the bigger over to the other side . The seam will roll naturally toward the smaller pattern, but understitching and ironing help a lot too :)

Ooof, I wouldn't, but you could test it if the sequins are not particularly thick/hard. There are so many areas for the sequins to get lodged. If you're making a high end garment with quality sequin material, I would baste the material together and prep the seam allowance by removing unwanted sequins. Then after normal lock stitching, you could overlock the edges if needed. Also, if it is on a knit base material, it likely won't ravel, and therefore doesn't need a serged edge. Just remove the loose sequins in the seam allowance after stitching together.

@@vanhertenouterwear thanks for the info

That white border is so frustrating, but at least you caught it before ordering yardage! So, there are a couple reasons why a white border shows up, but if you are a detailed/concise worker, it's likely that you need to check your settings during export. Try opening your .ai file back up in Illustrator and when you export, look for the "Anti-aliasing" drop down menu. Choose "art optimized" and save again. See if this works, let me know if it doesn't! :)

Thanks for suggestion. Did you try turning the volume up? It gets extremely loud if I turn the volume up on my computer.

@@vanhertenouterwear yeah, i have turned the volume up, not so much clear

Hmm, I'd have to see your file. The steps are pretty specific in sequence. I would come back to it and watch the steps again. Sometimes a fresh brain helps me figure out what I was missing....

Oh thank you so much! I'm glad it could help :)

oooh, I love to hear that, zero waste is so fun! The students are always all over the place :) Some are relatively simple but they turn out beautiful. They are so good that the faculty end up ordering from them! I would be curious to see your projects! :)

Hi, it's called the Differential Feed which allows you to set the speeds of the feeder dogs, essentially. You need to go into the machine, open the table top and left side of machine. Look for a post at the very left hand side.

It sounds like the sewing relation might just be flipped around. Try clicking on the sewing line with the Edit Sewing Tool, select reverse sewing. Otherwise, make sure the tick marks are in the same direction so the software knows which way to sew the two pieces together.

Hey there, so could you be looking over the video? It saves with all of the other image files and can blend in sometimes. It will either be at the very top or bottom of the group. Otherwise, if there is no video, there is a chance the render was interrupted. Sorry you're having difficulties!

@@vanhertenouterwear hey thanks a lot

thanks, glad it could be helpful :)

I don't currently have a video for that, but for denim, the best appearance for denim will come from UV maps. This is different than the texture/normal/displacement maps. Look into UV Maps.

Thanks <3

Aw, well that's very kind of you to say. Thanks for taking the time. I'm glad the video could be helpful in some way <3

Oooh yes, so glad it could, especially during one of THOSE projects :). Thanks for taking the time to say <3

Aw that's super nice to hear <3. I'm glad it could help in some way!

Aw, thanks for taking the time to say, I'm so glad it could help <3