This popular train set was first sold in 2016 and features a hand-held remote control, as you have noted. The problem could be with the locomotive itself, or a malfunctioning control. Perhaps someone reading your request is more experienced with how the various components interact, on this 21st century version train set.

Thank you for your encouraging comment. Hopefully there are myriads of other vintage layouts still running well or waiting to be brought back to life.

Thank you for your comment. Possibly you will find the time and space to get dad’s outfit running again! We are always willing to provide thoughts and suggestions about operating a Vintage Lionel Layout.

@@ChooChooVille oh she’s running! Thank you 🙏 I definitely need more room!

After reviewing the video, I agree that the ping marks did not show, although you can see that I did apply the spring-loaded center punch to the axle. Trust me, it happened, and it truly was necessary to prevent the wheel from slipping. The steel in these axles is soft and is easily dimpled with an ordinary center punch.

I briefly pointed to the field coil with my screwdriver. It is the only coil of wire remaining in the motor frame after the armature has been removed. One side of this coil is internally connected to the frame, while the other end connects via a wire to the reversing switch. When checking continuity of the field coil, it should be noted that resistance is typically about 1 ohm (not to be confused with a short circuit in the wiring). We recently created a video dealing with the wiring of vintage Lionel motors. Perhaps this will also provide some insight on identifying the origin of all those black usually distressed wires. The KZfaq reference for this "Lionel Prewar Motors and How They are Wired" tutorial is: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lZaGd5mdzMicmIk.htmlfeature=shared

The pendulum reverse assembly contains a contact sub-assembly that hovers above the top surface of the motor field laminations. When power is applied to the motor, the resulting magnetic field will pull the moving portion downward, and the contacts will open. When power is interrupted and then re-applied, the contacts will close and activate a solenoid that moves a set of pendulum-like contacts which reverse the direction of current flow to the armature, thus reversing direction of rotation. Some assemblies are also wired to activate the proper headlight associated with direction of travel.

@@ChooChooVille - Thank you.

I measured the resistance of the E-unit on a Lionel steam locomotive to be about 13 ohms. A locomotive such as this one takes about 10 volts when run on DC power, as shown in the video "Running Vintage Lionel O-Gauge Trains on DC Power". The power consumed by the E-unit alone would then be 10*10/13, or about 7.5 watts. It will become quite hot in a short time, although it will operate. Another consideration is whether it will eventually acquire some permanent magnetization and not continue to release properly. Lionel accessories that are designed to vibrate will only work with 60 Hz power applied, as they actually vibrate at 60 Hz. Some of these accessories are mentioned in the referenced video.

Welcome aboard! Thank you for your gracious comment.

Thank you.

Thank you for viewing!

Thank you.

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Lionel switches came with their own controller. I am not aware of controllers being sold separately. With that in mind, it is relatively easy to make your own controller, as shown in our you-tube video - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fLOldNmn3LO3cok.html If you decide to build your own controller, it will need only a momentary electrical connection to change a switch position. A prolonged connection uses a lot of power and can overheat the switch internal solenoids.

@@ChooChooVille Thank You!!!

Thanks for watching!

I do not see anything wrong with using the white lube. The oil is just my personal preference because it tends to stay on the gear tooth surface more than the white lube, which tends to push away.

@@ChooChooVille I guess I always viewed oil and lube as different things with different purposes- lube for where the gears contact each other, and oil for things like bushings or wheels or whatever.. something that would squeak vs something that would grind haha

Oil may not last as long as grease but they both reduce wear on the gears. You’ll see people swear by grease only on gears, but cmon this isn’t heavy machinery and it’s not gonna be running thousands of miles, so any difference is probably theoretical.

Thank you very much!

Thank you.

Your observations are all correct. My goal in making this video was one of curiosity rather than an actual requirement. I heard decades ago from a Lionel dealer that his Standard Gauge #402 could be modified to run on DC and performed very well. I have also read a number of publications noting that Lionel's motors were typically of the universal type, able to run on either AC or DC. In the recent video of my O-27 set, I elected to activate the E-unit so that I could stop the train to unload the milk car. I also noted that my #2025 would run well on 10 volts DC, while requiring 12 volts AC to achieve the same speeds, thus decreasing the power dissipated in the E-unit while running on DC. One could consider periodically reversing the positions of the DC wires to the track to lessen the possibility of permanent magnetization of the E-unit. One last point. If you choose to run a Standard Gauge locomotive on DC, then the field coil and the armature should be wired in series to prevent excess armature heating. Motors made in the late 1930's and having E-units were wired in this manner, but E-unit overheating might be a huge issue if run on DC without disabling the E-unit.

I use a one-to-ten-part solution of Simple Green to water, for approximately one minute, for paint clean-up. For surfaces with heavy grease and whose paint is not of a concern (locomotive motors), then Simple Green may be used at full strength. Hopefully this answers your question.

@@ChooChooVille Thanks. For the older locomotives where it is impossible to remove the motor (armature) from the metal housing, is it safe to soak the whole thing in a tub of full strength Simple Green? I really just need to clean the old smelly grease off of the gears and axles, but it is impossible without getting some on the motor armature. If it is safe, how long do you recommend I soak it for before rinsing it off and drying it? Thanks!

I have placed my entire armature in full strength solution for approximately 15 seconds, continually moving the motor through the solution. I would not submerge the E-unit in the full strength solution. You will need to determine the risk factor for you.

The layout is approximately 4' x 5'.

@@ChooChooVille Thank you and good to know. I was also reviewing your books on the subject. Take care.

I wanted to simulate as closely as possible, a commercial DC Power Supply, having minimal ripple voltage.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks

Approximately 1935.

@@ChooChooVille Four years before Lionel discontinued their Standard gauge in 1939 and, thank you for taking the time in reading my comment.

If the switches are a non-derailing type, such as the Lionel #0-22, they will not work properly if all the pins are metal. The innermost rails of non-derailing switches need to have insulating pins on both the curved and straight track pieces. When the correct pins are installed, the controller must be connected with its center wire to the center binding post of the switch. The two outer controller wires need to be placed on their binding posts such that the green/red positions of the controller and the actual switch position correspond. The center binding post of all Lionel electric switches is always internally wired to common, which electrically is the outside rails of track and the corresponding binding post on the transformer.

@@ChooChooVille Thanks! I have followed your directions and it is working well. Thanks!

Thank you for your request. We released a new video, Lionel Prewar Motors and How They are Wired, that should help with your question.

The motors in the 260E's are larger and more powerful than those of the 262, and while they look similar, they cannot be readily interchanged. The 260 has a drive wheel placement that is slightly farther apart than that of the 262. This being said, the value gear of the 260E will not properly span and operate with the smaller motor in place. Also, to be noted is that the drive wheels of a 260E have valve gear cross rod mounting screws located farther from the wheel's center.

@@ChooChooVille Thanks for the response! Happy New Year!

Yes, 027 track.

Glad you enjoyed it!

American Flyer trains made after World War II were designed to run on 2-rail track which has about 1 inch spacing between rails (known as 3/16” scale). To power motorized units such as this handcar, American Flyer used AC transformers producing approximately the same voltages as ones from Lionel. Their design also employed a track clip which sent power to each of the rails, voltage common to one side and variable voltage to the other. In order to test an American Flyer motor without track, I used a pair of clip leads connected to a Lionel transformer set to produce about 12 volts. One clip lead was clipped to a drive wheel that was not driven, as it was resting on a nylon bushing. The other clip lead touched a wheel on the opposite (driven) side. Note that the non-driven wheels are connected by a piece of phosphor-bronze sheet metal which in turn connects to one side of the motor.

Yes, I do use Cascade Complete powder. Thank you for your gracious comments!

@@ChooChooVille thanks for the reply. I have a big box ordered. Still catching up on your other videos!

Yes it is!

Thank you for your comment. I did find the O-27 non-derailing Switches did not transit as smoothly with the Prewar Tinplate Trains.

The condition of the engine will help determine the selling options. Does the engine and tender have all the original parts, good paint and runs well? There are several popular online auction sites that are available. Another option is to take the engine to a local train meet or flea market to discuss selling it to a dealer. If you are looking for a charitable tax deduction, a donation could work for you.

From a personal perspective, I have not had a problem with the whistle on any vintage of Lionel Tender. Here are a couple of things I would review in troubleshooting: 1. Try the whistle control on the other side of your ZW in case one side is marginal in the DC portion of output voltage (about 1/2 to 1 volt). 2. Remove the cover from your postwar tender and observe the DC relay to determine if it closes or attempts to close. If you can see the relay's flat armature move when you call for the whistle, then perhaps the contacts need some burnishing. 3. Manually close the contacts on the DC relay and see if the impeller tries to turn. Perhaps the brushes are dirty or its armature is frozen. Note that you should use an insulated/wooden tool when poking around inside the whistle.

@@ChooChooVille found it! The wires were broken off at the trucks and I never noticed. 😩🤦🏻‍♂️ ended up both tenders I had, had the same issue. Now they work decent.