Let us know how it went

Well... give or take... smaller steps than 90 degrees 😅

That's a good idea 👍

Lol, nice 👍

It's very similar with a lot of Mercedes models so I would say yes, it should be the similar to a 2011 E-350

Lol... one thing I noticed is that of you don't cut open the flap big enough, you'll have a harder time pulling the battery out.

@AlbanianFix I pulled it back enough... it's just not enough room from the back of the seat and the floorboard to pull it out. I'm going to have to reconnect everything and see if I can raise the seat up & forward. But I'm pretty sure it's as far as it can go. I'll try again after work.

Well, you're right, the veryyyyy correct way to do it is the NOPO-PINI way: Negative out, Positive out Positive in, Negative in I get caught in the middle of it when trying to record, forgetting about it or just trying to do it fast and don't pay attention. BUT as long you disconnect the Positive first make sure it's completely protected and not let it touch any metal part of the car and you should be fine which ever way you decide to disconnect the battery leads.

It's in the video's description. Click on the link that's for the Star and it will bring you there.

Not really, I believe the purple gaskets are the most up to date.

😂

With jumper cables from another car or use one of those portable jump starters

You're very welcome!

@@AlbanianFix I have the exact same 2011 bluetec as you replaced the purple oil cooler seals in and I have an oil drip too, that I’m sure is the oil cooler seals. You saw no reason to replace the cooler with a new one while in there when you did yours. I’m thinking there’s not anything mechanical in an oil cooler that benefits from a new oil cooler, did you have the same opinion since you didn’t replace it? The purple seals are the only thing in there that can fail.

Thanks for the info 👍

Everything stayed in place.

Oh wow your rebuilding it from ground up, nice 👍 Yeah, I believe the design is still the same but with significant improvements.

@@AlbanianFix thanks for your feedback cheers 👌

Lol

Sì è corretto! Ho imparato dai miei errori e ora so che Volvo ha lo sbloccaggio automatico del pistone. Grazie per il feedback.

I wouldn't be sure 100% for your car, sorry.

Yeah 👍

Link is in the description.

@@AlbanianFix That link is for 2008-2012. I have a 2015.

@@ReallyShecky I just installed one for the 08-12 and it worked fine. That range is for Accords, but it looks like Honda reused it for Crosstours until 2015

@@gavination_domination Yep. Worked great on my 2015 Crosstour...thx!

Lol

Yeah it's not designed very good.

Whoa 😳 😮 how did that happen??? Please share us your story as what wire you tried to hook it up to for others to read. Your story can help save people a lot of money.

So I attempted to hook mine up the same way as this video. However, I tried to tie it into the low beam headlight using the same type of clamps shown in the video. The European car mechanic I used explained that the star and the car lights are different voltages which caused the problem.

Which really sucks because I have the star in, but not wired, and I really like the way they look lit up!

Thanks for the feedback!

Si t'kam vlla? Është pak problem kur makina nuk të tregon se ç'probem ka. Mos është gjë e modifikume makina nga ana xhenerike? Limp mode aktivizohet kur një ose disa pjesë të motorrit ose të transmisionit nuk punojnë siç duhet, psh. ndonjë sensor, siguresë, kabllat elektrike ose elektronike nuk punojnë ose kanë shkëputje etj. Në rastin tënd ty nuk të del asnjë shenjë që do të thotë makinës i është bërë ndonjë modifikim ku disa sensorë janë anulluar nga ECU (truri makinës) në mënyrë që të mos ndërhyjnë tek modikimi i bërë, dhe ato sensorë nuk japin më shenjë kur vërtet ka diçka që nuk shkon. Nqs makina nuk ka modfikime të tilla dhe diçka ose diku tek ato pjesë apo sensorë që përmënda mësipër ti do kesh ndonjë shkëputje momentale, punë sekondash e cila vet-rregulkohet por e fut makinën në limp mode dhe nuk arrin të tregoj gjë në sistem dhe prandaj kur ti e fik dhe e ndez, makina është në rregull. Megjithatë, shko bëj një skanim makinës tek servisi sepse shumicën e rastit edhe pse nuk del gjë, skanimi mund të tregoj se ç'farë ka ndodhur me kompjuterin e makinës.

Shum flm vlla .e kam fut te komjuteri i benzit e Ka update ecu e Ka kthy nga fillimi.nuk e beri per ni muaj isha duke hec the u fut ne limp mode nuk hecte me shum se 40 e fika e ndeza normal e kam shiku gjithandej neper londer nuk nxjerr gjo e futi ni shok I im ne live data kompjuter dhe e nxori ket position off selection range valve fault .se kur ndaloj ne semafor e bon ni slip ose jerking kick .po ti shum faleminderit per replay patriot

E futa prap te kompjuter benzit ne live data e nuk e nxori

I never checked that before but let's say, if the steering wheel needs 2 full rotations (720 degrees) to reach dead zone, I would guess that I turn the wheel maaaaybe 3/4 of a rotation (225 degrees) for the cornering lights to turn on.

@@AlbanianFix thank you, because someone on facebook said they do it only about 50 degrees, so I thought it was too little.

Exactly. I lost one hour before watching this video😂

That's a cool idea to keep in mind next time!

If you know what your doing, about 4-5 hours. If not + you're taking your time (like me), 8-9 hours. I don't have a shop, but if I had to do this for a friend, probably hmm... around $1200 would be my guess.

Yes my distronic for blind spot sensors also stopped working but after replacing the battery, it started working again.

Since the make of this video, it hasn't had any effect on other lights or power draw. The LED itself has gotten a bit dimmer but that's just the quality of the LED light over years. I might replace it again someday, especially now that the lines are run and the swap will be a breeze, will take me like 30 seconds literally.

@@AlbanianFix Thank you.

So the airbag doesn’t deploy while you fix the emblem. Saves you from dying